FlyingFreak
Active Member
- Joined
- Feb 3, 2022
- Messages
- 106
- Likes
- 152
I got 28" stands. The official ones are 25".
It is okay IMHO. Tangents are sorta needed from time to time.Sorry, didn’t realize every neutral speaker sounds exactly the same as each other to begin with.
I’ll cease further posts. Apologies to everyone for the accidental derailment.
I've been experimenting with this a bit. Looking at the plots on page one (and ignoring the stuff really deep), it appears distortion peaks a little below 80Hz - about where you'd expect the excursion maximum given the port tuning of the speaker.All I got so far is that a sub should be bought thinking about where the crossover should be applied at as well as the room they will be in (required SPL). For the M106, crossover should be made around 80-100hz, correct?
Probably about 7.5'. Seems to deal with room issues pretty well this way having them close. Also enhances their dynamic range since they're running lower on an absolute basis.so the subs are how many feet closer to you than the m106 ?
Thanks Rooskie, I appreciate the post brother.It is okay IMHO. Tangents are sorta needed from time to time.
Spice up the old thread a bit.
So, my take is that 'neutral' would be better served as 'neutralish'.
In exactly the same way Mr. Toole says 'flatish' rather than 'flat or most flat'.
Neutral is an wide target in my view and is not always light grey or beige.
Some neutralish speakers I have owned/tried have been really fun to listen to, others a bit joyless and even others that I thought sounded not so great despite it.
In any case there is no pure 'neutral'. Some brought up video reproduction.
Picture this, a 100% color accurate 40" 4k TV vs a 70% color accurate 1080p 120" projection set-up. Which one is more true to the source, more neutral? For nearly every film in my mind the 120" screen is despite the less accurate color and resolution.
I am not excusing poorly performing loudspeakers but there are different forms of neutrality.
Anyway, I just listened to the HECO Celan 3's for the 1st time tonight. About 6 or 7 tracks worth at a pretty lively SPL. I also have the M126be's and the BMR monitors out for doing all three sets tmrw. Should be fun.
So far the subjective experience has been fantastic. Need to listen more but I have been listening to the Lintons as I fixed an issue in them and am trying to figure out if it helped 'em.Thanks Rooskie, I appreciate the post brother.
How are you enjoying the Celans?
I listened to their Belladonnas for 45 minutes or so at Audio Advice in Raleigh. Those speakers are pretty nuts to say the least. The level of power and attack was astonishing! I had to check the 15” ported sub in the room to make sure it wasn’t on and cranked up. Pretty big whoaaaa moment.
Can anybody say if the M106 is an upgrade to the JBL HDI 1600? (use is for both music and movies, good high SPL performance desirable)
Thanks
I listened to them side by side at Audio Advice and thought the HDI’s sounded a little darker/veiled by comparison. Guess it depends what your ears are after.Can anybody say if the M106 is an upgrade to the JBL HDI 1600? (use is for both music and movies, good high SPL performance desirable)
Thanks
I would go with the Revels for dual purpose, as HDI would suck some of the life out of the HT experience for me. The sound profile felt more chill than toe-tapping. Personally I would go in the other direction and demo the Revels against something a touch more forward & lively and keep the winner.Thanks both - the kind of responses I was expecting to be honest!
How does this speaker perform at lower (apartment) volumes? I currently have Dali Oberon 1's which are much smaller but sound pretty darn good at low levels.It can play a lot louder and even cleaner.
IndonesiaHi all, Just curious. Where are M106 made? I think probably not made in the USA. Am I right?
Cheers