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Recapping Vintage Electronics?

sergeauckland

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Do you guys think the transistors are safe to leave alone?

Some of the recapping 'kits' can be ordered with or without transistors.
Yes, unless you have reason to question the performance. I would never change stuff just because I can. Once you get into changing the transistors, why stop there, as resistors especially carbon ones change value, and plastic connectors get brittle and can snap, then there's mechanical wear and.....and.....and.

If something's faulty or out of spec by all means change it, but not otherwise......if it ain't broke.......

S
 

tomelex

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Leaky coupling caps can kill transistors, I suggest that if you decide to change out all the caps on your own then when done if I then the unit does not work when you fire it up then pass on to a tech that can trace signals and find any other bad issues such as defective semiconductors etc.
 

Leenyc

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I am recapping a Revox B215 Cassette Deck
, and one of the electrolytic caps in the power supply is confounding me. It is a Frako 4700uF 16V radial cap in a metal can. The can has 3 tabs 120 degrees apart soldered to the ground plane of the board, with a single connection in the center for +. I don't really see a reason for the 'shielding', and want to replace with a standard radial lead cap since I cannot seem to find this style component. Does anyone have any thoughts for or against this plan? Former world class recording studio chief here.
 

MakeMineVinyl

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I am recapping a Revox B215 Cassette Deck
, and one of the electrolytic caps in the power supply is confounding me. It is a Frako 4700uF 16V radial cap in a metal can. The can has 3 tabs 120 degrees apart soldered to the ground plane of the board, with a single connection in the center for +. I don't really see a reason for the 'shielding', and want to replace with a standard radial lead cap since I cannot seem to find this style component. Does anyone have any thoughts for or against this plan? Former world class recording studio chief here.
That style of capacitor (FP) is not used for shielding. They are typically multi-section with a common negative terminal (the can). You can safely replace it with the same value of electrolytic with the same or higher voltage rating.
 

Leenyc

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That style of capacitor (FP) is not used for shielding. They are typically multi-section with a common negative terminal (the can). You can safely replace it with the same value of electrolytic with the same or higher voltage rating.
Thanks, but the part is definitely not multi-section, the three tabs around the circumference are all soldered to the ground plane in the power supply section of the board (I assume for physical stability, but thought there may be a shielding component there). There is only one terminal in the center which is the positive side. The capacitor is also only marked one value. It is marked:

Elko 4700 uF
16V-GPF
EFR 4700 - 16 (67)
FRAKO
W.Germany

I guess my best bet is to find a same value with lead spacing the same as the FRAKO component and maybe silicone it down (there are two Axial caps that are glued down to the circuit board. I just don't trust power supply electrolytics that are probably close to 40 years old. I would just like to keep this deck as 'factory' as possible. Studer and Revox tended to be a bit over-engineered (i.e. the use of almost all 10% caps in this cassette deck). I guess I have to sacrifice some of it's 'integrity' if I want to put this deck back to work (I have lots of cassette tapes that need to be archived).

Thanks for the reply!
 

MakeMineVinyl

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Thanks, but the part is definitely not multi-section, the three tabs around the circumference are all soldered to the ground plane in the power supply section of the board (I assume for physical stability, but thought there may be a shielding component there). There is only one terminal in the center which is the positive side. The capacitor is also only marked one value. It is marked:

Elko 4700 uF
16V-GPF
EFR 4700 - 16 (67)
FRAKO
W.Germany

I guess my best bet is to find a same value with lead spacing the same as the FRAKO component and maybe silicone it down (there are two Axial caps that are glued down to the circuit board. I just don't trust power supply electrolytics that are probably close to 40 years old. I would just like to keep this deck as 'factory' as possible. Studer and Revox tended to be a bit over-engineered (i.e. the use of almost all 10% caps in this cassette deck). I guess I have to sacrifice some of it's 'integrity' if I want to put this deck back to work (I have lots of cassette tapes that need to be archived).

Thanks for the reply!
This style of capacitor had various numbers of sections from one to four. Do a Google search on "FP style capacitor"
 

weme

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Elko 4700 uF
16V-GPF


Specification for GFP:
https://www.mikrocontroller.net/attachment/456516/Klimaklasse.png

->
The old "Elko" above has this specification:
4700 uF // 16 Volt DC // -40°C to +85°C = (40/085/56)
Withstands test Cab (damp heat, steady state) during 56 days (IEC 60068-2-78)

You can use:
16 or 20 or 25 Volt DC
-40 to +85°C or ... 105°C
The humidity class (here P) is not a problem if the device is not used in the tropics.
 
Last edited:

Leenyc

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Elko 4700 uF
16V-GPF


Specification for GFP:
https://www.mikrocontroller.net/attachment/456516/Klimaklasse.png

->
The old "Elko" above has this specification:
4700 uF // 16 Volt DC // -40°C to +85°C = (40/085/56)
Withstands test Cab (damp heat, steady state) during 56 days (IEC 60068-2-78)

You can use:
16 or 20 or 25 Volt DC
-40 to +85°C or ... 105°C
The humidity class (here P) is not a problem if the device is not used in the tropics.


Thanks!
 
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