Looking for external EQ/DSP solution for 2.1 or potentially 2ch system

[ziggurcat]

I'll try to be as succinct as I can with this so here goes nothing...

I'm trying to set myself up so that any future format upgrades (i.e. 8k, for example) doesn't require the purchase of multiple components since I've reduced my system into a 2.1ch music/HT build. The idea is to become less reliant on keeping up with HDMI technologies so that I'm not constantly upgrading my receiver every few years or so (not that I have to, but still...). As I was mulling things over, the Yamaha R-N800A became a consideration because it is pretty simple, doesn't have a lot of extra things I'll never use, and it has some form of room correction in YPAO. Unfortunately, there isn't a lot of 2ch receivers that have any form of room correction, so I don't have a lot of choice.

Fast forward to yesterday/today where I have re-calibrated my system using OCA's ART method because his Audyssey One method suggested that I inverted my sub's polarity (the log it generates indicated it was nearly 180 degrees out of phase with my speakers). And because I keep looking into simplifying things even further, I have been toying with the idea of dropping my subwoofer. The impetus for this comes from switching my AVR settings to turn the subwoofer on/off as I listen to some of my usual test racks, and the Lintons I have on their own (EQ'd, mind you) have held up where the bass presence is just as strong without the subwoofer going. If I drop my sub, then I can go with a simpler 2ch integrated amp that has pre-outs (I use external amplification for my speakers), but they often do not have any sort of room correction outside of the tone controls (which wouldn't cut it because I have room issues that only EQ can fix). I have been ogling the Leak 130/230 integrated for a while, now, and I think this would be my likely choice, but it clearly doesn't have any room correction software.

So I am going to start looking into some external DSP solutions in the event that this is the route I go. The problem is I have no idea where to begin. I have looked into miniDSP, but I have also read that while it's a pretty a nice thing for EQing/aligning subs, it's not so good for speaker calibration (there's mention of it creating artefacts, etc... but nothing I've read has been specific with what those issues are?). I would ideally like it to be reasonably affordable (I'm not looking to spend an extra $1k on this), and also available in Canada (or at least something I can order in, but being up here, things from the US can cost upwards of 50%+ more because of exchange rates/shipping/duty/taxes).

Thanks in advance for all of your time, and consideration.

 

[Keith_W]

There are quite a few DSP products. I suggest you decide which of these is important to you:

- budget - you have already set this. $1k.
- how many channels (looks like 2.1 or 2.0?)
- what inputs you will be using - e.g. turntable, HDMI, etc.
- ease of use vs. customisability and flexibility (the more options you have to adjust, the steeper the learning curve)
- hardware based vs. PC based.
- "good enough" vs "ultimate"
- off-the-shelf vs. DIY
- set-and-forget vs. endless tinkering trying to eke out improvements

If you can answer those questions, it will clarify what solution you need.

 

[ziggurcat]

There are quite a few DSP products. I suggest you decide which of these is important to you:

- budget - you have already set this. $1k.
- how many channels (looks like 2.1 or 2.0?)
- what inputs you will be using - e.g. turntable, HDMI, etc.
- ease of use vs. customisability and flexibility (the more options you have to adjust, the steeper the learning curve)
- hardware based vs. PC based.
- "good enough" vs "ultimate"
- off-the-shelf vs. DIY
- set-and-forget vs. endless tinkering trying to eke out improvements

If you can answer those questions, it will clarify what solution you need.

To respond to each point:

- Budget isn't $1k, I'm afraid. I would like to avoid having to pay that much, and would like to stay hovering around $500 if I can. I would probably be a little flexible on the budget since I'm okay with spending a bit more knowing it's a component that I will only have to replace if it dies or becomes so obsolete that it requires an upgrade/swap out.
- 2.1 or 2.0 - it all depends on whether I decide to ditch the sub, but I can't see myself doing that, so let's assume 2.1ch. If 2.1ch, I would be interested in hearing any other 2.1ch integrated amp options, should going with an external DSP solution can be found. Right now something that has any form of room correction included is very slim pickings. The NAD C 3050 or C389 has also been considered (though I have virtually crossed the C 3050 off my list).

- Devices I would need to connect to an integrated are: CD Player, Turntable (I use an external preamp for that, but if the phono stage is good enough, I don't have an issue dropping the preamp), and media player (I play all of my digital music from a Raspberry Pi that's fed through a Topping D10s DAC and connected via RCA to my current AVR). So, I will need two RCA inputs, and one coaxial. HDMI isn't important since I'd be connecting my TV to the integrated via Toslink/Optical. Gaming devices and cable box would be direct to TV via HDMI. Because of that, I couldn't use an HDMI input on the amp since my current TV only has the three HDMI inputs.

- I've been using Audyssey in conjunction with REW, so I do like a fair amount of customization. I have been using OCA's calibration methods for a while, now, so I would love to be able to apply a similar kind of calibration (more so to his ART method).

- Probably hardware-based. It would hope it to be a component that I can connect to my computer to do all of the calibrations, then plunk it in between my power amp and (likely) my subwoofer.

- As long as it allows me to get what I can do right now, I'll be happy. I don't need the ultimate.

- Off the shelf

- Somewhere in between set-and-forget and tinkering. I have a solid pair of speakers right now, but I do tend to swap speakers far too regularly.

 

[DavidMcRoy]

Re: DSP/speaker and room compensation: Dayton Audio DSP-408 ($165) 4 in , 8 out. Add a calibrated mic like a UMIK-2 ($230) and a Mac, iOS, Android and or PC compatible audio analysis app and you're set. You can do it on a tablet or a phone.

 

[Holmz]

The Lyngdorf TDAI integrated amps might be worth looking at.

 

[dualazmak]

In case if you already have one PC (or one Mac), one stereo USB DAC, one (integrated) stereo amplifier, one 2-way (or 3-way) passive stereo SP system, and one (or two) subwoofer(s), you can easily establish quasi/sham-multichannel PC-based-DSP-system as schematically represented in the below diagram (the values of XO, Gain, Group-Delay are just for example);

As shown in above diagram, if needed, you may easily attach LCD or OLED TV as your second PC monitor through single HDMI cable (for visual signal only) (ref. here), and even you may also attach LP TurnTable (for on-the-fly LP listening under DSP) with phono-preamp plus audio-interface via single USB 2.0 cable to PC (ref. here).

Of course, in this configuration, your SP-system is still "passive" having LCR-network, but you may simulate/try/play-with/learn full DSP functionalities by upstream PC-DSP software.

After you would try/play-with this quasi/sham-multichannel system, if you would like, you may proceed into real/true multichannel multi-SP-driver multi-amplifier fully active system using suitable multichannel DAC unit (ref. my multichannel thread, and my latest system setup).

 

[Keith_W]

To respond to each point:

- Budget isn't $1k, I'm afraid. I would like to avoid having to pay that much, and would like to stay hovering around $500 if I can. I would probably be a little flexible on the budget since I'm okay with spending a bit more knowing it's a component that I will only have to replace if it dies or becomes so obsolete that it requires an upgrade/swap out.
- 2.1 or 2.0 - it all depends on whether I decide to ditch the sub, but I can't see myself doing that, so let's assume 2.1ch. If 2.1ch, I would be interested in hearing any other 2.1ch integrated amp options, should going with an external DSP solution can be found. Right now something that has any form of room correction included is very slim pickings. The NAD C 3050 or C389 has also been considered (though I have virtually crossed the C 3050 off my list).

- Devices I would need to connect to an integrated are: CD Player, Turntable (I use an external preamp for that, but if the phono stage is good enough, I don't have an issue dropping the preamp), and media player (I play all of my digital music from a Raspberry Pi that's fed through a Topping D10s DAC and connected via RCA to my current AVR). So, I will need two RCA inputs, and one coaxial. HDMI isn't important since I'd be connecting my TV to the integrated via Toslink/Optical. Gaming devices and cable box would be direct to TV via HDMI. Because of that, I couldn't use an HDMI input on the amp since my current TV only has the three HDMI inputs.

- I've been using Audyssey in conjunction with REW, so I do like a fair amount of customization. I have been using OCA's calibration methods for a while, now, so I would love to be able to apply a similar kind of calibration (more so to his ART method).

- Probably hardware-based. It would hope it to be a component that I can connect to my computer to do all of the calibrations, then plunk it in between my power amp and (likely) my subwoofer.

- As long as it allows me to get what I can do right now, I'll be happy. I don't need the ultimate.

- Off the shelf

- Somewhere in between set-and-forget and tinkering. I have a solid pair of speakers right now, but I do tend to swap speakers far too regularly.

I think the product for you is the MiniDSP Flex. It costs USD$495, has a built-in ADC for your turntable, 1 SPDIF, 1 optical input, and 4 analog outputs. If your media player supports Bluetooth, it can connect to it that way too. Dirac is an optional $200 add-on. I am not sure if the Flex can be used without Dirac, I would certainly hope so. MiniDSP's weakness is that it is limited in CPU grunt so some of the correction has to be done via minphase IIR's. Also don't forget to add on a mic (get a UMIK-2, NOT a UMIK-1), mic tripod, cables, etc. You will be looking at under $1k all up depending on what you need to buy.

The choice of software is very important. In general, more automation is better for beginners but can sometimes do inappropriate correction. More control is better for advanced users but difficult for beginners. Dirac is easy to use but not without its issues - do a search for "Dirac" on ASR and you will read multiple tales of woe. Doing it manually with REW will get you a much better correction but it has its own learning curve. If you can sit through @OCA videos you are doing well!

There are certainly other solutions, e.g. you could DIY your own with a Raspberry Pi running Camilla + your choice of software packages + BYO multichannel DAC/interface. You would get a more powerful solution for about as much money. But you did say you would prefer an off-the-shelf solution, so I recommended the solution which will give you the least inconvenience possible with DSP.

 

[ziggurcat]

I think the product for you is the MiniDSP Flex. It costs USD$495, has a built-in ADC for your turntable, 1 SPDIF, 1 optical input, and 4 analog outputs. If your media player supports Bluetooth, it can connect to it that way too. Dirac is an optional $200 add-on. I am not sure if the Flex can be used without Dirac, I would certainly hope so. MiniDSP's weakness is that it is limited in CPU grunt so some of the correction has to be done via minphase IIR's. Also don't forget to add on a mic (get a UMIK-2, NOT a UMIK-1), mic tripod, cables, etc. You will be looking at under $1k all up depending on what you need to buy.

The choice of software is very important. In general, more automation is better for beginners but can sometimes do inappropriate correction. More control is better for advanced users but difficult for beginners. Dirac is easy to use but not without its issues - do a search for "Dirac" on ASR and you will read multiple tales of woe. Doing it manually with REW will get you a much better correction but it has its own learning curve. If you can sit through @OCA videos you are doing well!

There are certainly other solutions, e.g. you could DIY your own with a Raspberry Pi running Camilla + your choice of software packages + BYO multichannel DAC/interface. You would get a more powerful solution for about as much money. But you did say you would prefer an off-the-shelf solution, so I recommended the solution which will give you the least inconvenience possible with DSP.

I have definitely looked at the Flex as a solution, but could not for the life of me figure out how I was going to get all of my components connected in any of its configurations, so I sort of tabled that idea. If I had a clear idea on the chain of connected components, then I think it would be perfect because I know the Flex is pretty much a preamp, and it would be much less money than having to buy an integrated amplifier + some form of DSP component, etc...

My idiot brain is telling me this is how it would be:

TV > Optical/Toslink input
CD Player > Coax input
Turntable > Analogue 1/2 input
Media Player > just connecting my USB HDD to USB input or... ?

---

Analogue 1/2 OUT > Buckeye power amp > Speakers
Analogue 3 OUT > Subwoofer

Would this be correct?

I'm pretty anti-BT when it comes to connecting things because it has always been horribly unreliable with maintaining a connection in my space. BUT, if I can connect my USB HDD to the Flex, and run my digital music files that way, then that eliminates an analogue input that I'd otherwise need. Alternatively, I could set up a some kind of media server, and connect that to my modem to stream via WiFi (still not ideal for me, but better than BT imo).

I do already have a UMIK-1, so I don't need to get a calibrated mic. I haven't seen/read what the benefits of the UMIK-2 is over the 1 (plus in Canada, it's significantly more expensive). I'm no expert with REW, but I have used the software a fair bit to be able to stumble through most of it... I have gone through OCA's ART calibration method a bunch, and I know it doesn't necessarily require an Audyssey file to be able to do (taking measurements directly in REW is possible). I would consider the Dirac add-on if it means I can still do some of the things I have been able to do right now. I think the only confusing thing would be how I would get "distances" and trim levels (I know that's a dumb noob thing to say).

 

[Keith_W]

I have definitely looked at the Flex as a solution, but could not for the life of me figure out how I was going to get all of my components connected in any of its configurations, so I sort of tabled that idea. If I had a clear idea on the chain of connected components, then I think it would be perfect because I know the Flex is pretty much a preamp, and it would be much less money than having to buy an integrated amplifier + some form of DSP component, etc...

My idiot brain is telling me this is how it would be:

TV > Optical/Toslink input
CD Player > Coax input
Turntable > Analogue 1/2 input
Media Player > just connecting my USB HDD to USB input or... ?

---

Analogue 1/2 OUT > Buckeye power amp > Speakers
Analogue 3 OUT > Subwoofer

Would this be correct?

Yup. The Flex is somewhat limited with its inputs but I can't think of another product which has all the inputs that you need at your price point. You might have to live with some inconveniences e.g. swapping cables every time you want to listen to a different source. I am not aware of any "digital preamps" that can take multiple digital inputs and convert them into SPDIF or Toslink ... anyone?

I'm pretty anti-BT when it comes to connecting things because it has always been horribly unreliable with maintaining a connection in my space. BUT, if I can connect my USB HDD to the Flex, and run my digital music files that way, then that eliminates an analogue input that I'd otherwise need. Alternatively, I could set up a some kind of media server, and connect that to my modem to stream via WiFi (still not ideal for me, but better than BT imo).

Definitely agree with you re: unreliable BT connection. I hear the newer standards are less unreliable but I personally would prefer a wired connection.

I do already have a UMIK-1, so I don't need to get a calibrated mic. I haven't seen/read what the benefits of the UMIK-2 is over the 1 (plus in Canada, it's significantly more expensive). I'm no expert with REW, but I have used the software a fair bit to be able to stumble through most of it... I have gone through OCA's ART calibration method a bunch, and I know it doesn't necessarily require an Audyssey file to be able to do (taking measurements directly in REW is possible). I would consider the Dirac add-on if it means I can still do some of the things I have been able to do right now. I think the only confusing thing would be how I would get "distances" and trim levels (I know that's a dumb noob thing to say).

I would hope that Dirac for MiniDSP does not use distances to set delays. If you care about proper subwoofer time alignment, you should be doing it manually anyway.

 

[ziggurcat]

Yup. The Flex is somewhat limited with its inputs but I can't think of another product which has all the inputs that you need at your price point. You might have to live with some inconveniences e.g. swapping cables every time you want to listen to a different source. I am not aware of any "digital preamps" that can take multiple digital inputs and convert them into SPDIF or Toslink ... anyone?

So to confirm: I would be correct in my assumption with how I would be connecting my components to the Flex?

It looks like I can actually connect my RPi to the Flex via USB since it can be done with the standard 2x4HD:

Raspberry Pi Streaming

miniDSP is a leading manufacturer of Digital Audio Signal Processors for the HomeTheater, Hifi, headphone and Automotive market. Join our large community of Audiophiles, Engineers and DIYers using our innovative products.

www.minidsp.com

But it just had one more analogue input, I could still use my Topping D10s DAC I am using now... Maybe I'm blind, but I couldn't find any information on what DAC chip is used in the Flex? But if I'm being honest, I don't think I have any digital music that is more than 24/48kHz, so the 96kHz limit on the Flex is probably going to sound fine to my ears.

Definitely agree with you re: unreliable BT connection. I hear the newer standards are less unreliable but I personally would prefer a wired connection.

Me too.

I would hope that Dirac for MiniDSP does not use distances to set delays. If you care about proper subwoofer time alignment, you should be doing it manually anyway.

I've always seen "distance" settings in the AVR as delay. I think I am comfortable enough with using REW that I can do it all manually anyway in the miniDSP. Whether I would need Dirac can be a bridge I can cross at a later date.

Now the question is: do I get the Flex with the SE analogue input/outputs or the one with the balanced/TRS inputs/outputs? My Buckeye power amp only has balanced inputs (so right now I'm using RCA to XLR cables) and my ULS-15 MK2 sub has SE and XLR inputs. I could get an RCA to TRS cable for connecting my turntable's phono preamp (yes, I understand that it would still be an unbalanced connection).

Second question is: if I go with the balanced model, would it require me to get two TRS to XLR cables for the subwoofer (L + R channels) or would it only require a cable with one TRS connector to two XLR connectors? This is the back panel for my subwoofer for reference (not my own photo):

I would be OK if I had to use up all analogue 4 outputs for this configuration, I would just need to know for sure before I blow any money

EDIT:

BTW, thank you for all of your wonderful help here.

 

[Keith_W]

So to confirm: I would be correct in my assumption with how I would be connecting my components to the Flex?

That is correct. Turntable --> Phono preamp --> RCA ADC inputs on the flex.
Digital sources --> Optical and SPDIF.

It looks like I can actually connect my RPi to the Flex via USB since it can be done with the standard 2x4HD:

Raspberry Pi Streaming

miniDSP is a leading manufacturer of Digital Audio Signal Processors for the HomeTheater, Hifi, headphone and Automotive market. Join our large community of Audiophiles, Engineers and DIYers using our innovative products.

www.minidsp.com

I would hope that the Flex can use the USB input as a source, and not only for programming. I don't actually own a Flex, so you should ask these questions on the MiniDSP forum. Or wonder why all the Flex owners on ASR aren't piping up.

If you already have an RPi, another option is to buy a 4 channel interface card like a Focusrite 4i4 and use your RPi to host a convolver like Camilla.

But it just had one more analogue input, I could still use my Topping D10s DAC I am using now... Maybe I'm blind, but I couldn't find any information on what DAC chip is used in the Flex? But if I'm being honest, I don't think I have any digital music that is more than 24/48kHz, so the 96kHz limit on the Flex is probably going to sound fine to my ears.

Read Amir's review to see the DAC performance. According to this post on the MiniDSP forum, it uses either a TI PCM1755 or a PCM4202 DAC chip.

I've always seen "distance" settings in the AVR as delay. I think I am comfortable enough with using REW that I can do it all manually anyway in the miniDSP. Whether I would need Dirac can be a bridge I can cross at a later date.

"Distance" is a very poor substitute for measurement of acoustic delay. There may be additional subwoofer latency which is not covered by "distance". Any product that directs you to enter delay using distance is not serious about subwoofer time alignment.

Now the question is: do I get the Flex with the SE analogue input/outputs or the one with the balanced/TRS inputs/outputs? My Buckeye power amp only has balanced inputs (so right now I'm using RCA to XLR cables) and my ULS-15 MK2 sub has SE and XLR inputs. I could get an RCA to TRS cable for connecting my turntable's phono preamp (yes, I understand that it would still be an unbalanced connection).

Second question is: if I go with the balanced model, would it require me to get two TRS to XLR cables for the subwoofer (L + R channels) or would it only require a cable with one TRS connector to two XLR connectors? This is the back panel for my subwoofer for reference (not my own photo):

That's up to you to decide. One reason to get the TSR XLR version is to get more output (4V vs. 2V). The disadvantage of getting the Flex with RCA vs. TRS balanced is whether you want to buy new cable or not. According to their own specifications the TRS XLR version has very very verrrrrrrrry slightly better performance. Any difference in performance (except for the greater output voltage) will be completely swamped by DSP.

Your subwoofer should only require one analog input. It looks as if your sub can sum left + right channels into mono. So check if the Flex allows you to sum subwoofer output to mono in their forums. If it does, then you only need one analog cable of your choice.

 

[markstein]

Hi,

I am using an automatic SPDIF switch to get around the issue of too little digital inputs. This switch was also tested and recommended by MC of RME as it shows flawless performance and even has a jitter reducer IC integrated improving the potentially bad jitter performance of some input devices, e.g. your TV.

You can configure I/O's to your needs during the order process - RCA and/or Toslink are available for all I/O's

Automatic SPDIF (Optical/RCA) Audio Switch by Beni_Skate on Tindie

Automatic Optical/RCA SPDIF Audio Switch with Optical/RCA SPDIF Output and additional high quality Audio DAC

www.tindie.com

Btw. I am not associated with this product in any way.

 

[markstein]

Regarding MiniDSP Flex USB connectivity, I guess audio playback via USB only works with a PC connected. You cannot simply plug in a harddisk. At least this was the case with the SHD I owned.

A workaround might be to using a relatively cheap WIIM mini, connect via SPDIF to the Flex and stream your music through the WIIM using Spotify or Tidal connect (i.e. no bluetooth streaming). You can also connect the WIIM to your NAS via UPNP (if you have one) to stream your own music library. Works great in my setup.

 

[ziggurcat]

Regarding MiniDSP Flex USB connectivity, I guess audio playback via USB only works with a PC connected. You cannot simply plug in a harddisk. At least this was the case with the SHD I owned.

A workaround might be to using a relatively cheap WIIM mini, connect via SPDIF to the Flex and stream your music through the WIIM using Spotify or Tidal connect (i.e. no bluetooth streaming). You can also connect the WIIM to your NAS via UPNP (if you have one) to stream your own music library. Works great in my setup.

It would technically be a Raspberry Pi, so pretty much a computer? I realize I initially thought the HDD might be able to connect directly to the Flex, but I found that link showing a Raspberry Pi connection is possible via USB. The link also shows Volumio, which is what I have on my RPi to "stream" my digital music.

 

[ziggurcat]

That is correct. Turntable --> Phono preamp --> RCA ADC inputs on the flex.
Digital sources --> Optical and SPDIF.

Great, then it looks like I have it sorted out.

I would hope that the Flex can use the USB input as a source, and not only for programming.

It appears that the link I found indicates that it can. If it works for the 2x4HD, then I can only imagine that it would be fine for the Flex, but I'm not going to just assume.

If you already have an RPi, another option is to buy a 4 channel interface card like a Focusrite 4i4 and use your RPi to host a convolver like Camilla.

Oh, I think that might be getting into too complicated territory

Read Amir's review to see the DAC performance. According to this post on the MiniDSP forum, it uses either a TI PCM1755 or a PCM4202 DAC chip.

Gotcha, thanks!

That's up to you to decide. One reason to get the TSR XLR version is to get more output (4V vs. 2V). The disadvantage of getting the Flex with RCA vs. TRS balanced is whether you want to buy new cable or not. According to their own specifications the TRS XLR version has very very verrrrrrrrry slightly better performance. Any difference in performance (except for the greater output voltage) will be completely swamped by DSP.

So basically, save some money and stick with the base analogue model if the performance isn't going to be noticeable/cancelled out.

Your subwoofer should only require one analog input. It looks as if your sub can sum left + right channels into mono. So check if the Flex allows you to sum subwoofer output to mono in their forums. If it does, then you only need one analog cable of your choice.

Based on the above block, I'll probably stick to the regular version, then I can just reuse the cables I have.

I did run into another conundrum: I realized that there's no 12v trigger out on the Flex. IIRC, the Buckeye does have an Auto/On/12v switch on the back, so I may just have to set it to be always on or Auto or find some other solution..

 

[markstein]

It would technically be a Raspberry Pi, so pretty much a computer? I realize I initially thought the HDD might be able to connect directly to the Flex, but I found that link showing a Raspberry Pi connection is possible via USB. The link also shows Volumio, which is what I have on my RPi to "stream" my digital music.

Other users may confirm whether a RPi can be connected to the Minidsp USB. I have no experience with such a setup. My SHD had a RPi integrated, running Volumio (integrated streamer).

When connecting digitally to a Minidsp, keep in mind that due to the inbuilt SRC you may want to digitally attenuate the volume of the input signal to avoid intersample clipping.

Have fun and - happy listening!

 

[dasdoing]

Oh, I think that might be getting into too complicated territory

you use OCA's methods and think configuring a convolver on an RPi is complicated? lol
here is a nice stand alone convolver for Linux https://lsp-plug.in/?page=manuals&section=impulse_responses_mono

 

[ziggurcat]

Other users may confirm whether a RPi can be connected to the Minidsp USB. I have no experience with such a setup. My SHD had a RPi integrated, running Volumio (integrated streamer).

When connecting digitally to a Minidsp, keep in mind that due to the inbuilt SRC you may want to digitally attenuate the volume of the input signal to avoid intersample clipping.

Have fun and - happy listening!

The link is from the miniDSP site, so while I can't assume it will work, I think I can put a bit of trust in that information being correct. I haven't purchased anything yet (but I think I'm pretty close), so I'll cross that specific bridge when the time comes. If it proves to not work, I'll figure out another way to connect my RPi or my digital music.

Thanks for all of your time, btw, it doesn't go unappreciated.

 

[ziggurcat]

you use OCA's methods and think configuring a convolver on an RPi is complicated? lol
here is a nice stand alone convolver for Linux https://lsp-plug.in/?page=manuals&section=impulse_responses_mono

I have no idea what a convolver is and I know how to use/stumble through REW, so that - to me - seems way more complicated. I'm not discounting the idea, I just have no idea what any of that means, and it feels like it's beyond what I think I need to do to achieve my goal (I like some ability to manually configure things, but not that much ).

OCA's methods I can handle because he does go through things step-by-step. And right now, A1 is quite literally one button click (though I do almost prefer his ART method).

 

[OldManMatt]

I have used a couple MiniDsp & Dirac products. For 2.0 ch the Minidsp DDRC-22D. 2.1ch it took some extra time with setup but using it strictly for 2ch was just taking some measurements, set it & forget it.

It is strictly digital input & output. At the time I wanted a Dirac product that would add the least amount of noise. I ran my TV & a streamer into the DSP then to a Dac with volume control..or preamp with digital inputs of course.

It's all about how well you take your measurements & how you set your frequency response on Dirac. Avoid boosting frequency's more than a couple db's.

With all that said I'm not even using Dirac anymore. I can get away with a few tabs of PEQ from my dac these days.