coaxial speaker cable (built)

[NYfan2]

I'm in the process of building a set of loudspeakers and decided to make new loudspeaker cables for these speakers. On the internet I found the Mogani coaxial speaker cable and I liked the idea because it's different then the standard cables Mogani coaxial speaker cable.
After a little search I found Sommercable, a German brand, also had coaxial speaker cable, it's a little bit cheaper then the Mogami and Thomann sells these the meter so I ordered 8 meter.

The manufacturer claims it's 2x2,5mm2 (AWG13)

To me it looks at least close to 2,5mm2

Red heat shrink tube around the core and black around the shielding

The end result with parts-express locking banan plugs and a Neutrik 2P Speakon connector.

Both cables, at the second cable I did a double black heat shrink tube around the shielding because then it looks the same diameter as the red.

I'm happy with the result, it's a highly flexible cable and pretty thin compared to standard 2,5 mm2 speaker cable.
And I'm sure it will "sound" great.

Cost is about € 60,- for 2 cables, almost half of the price are the Parts-express locking banana's, the speakon connectors are the cheapest part.
I'm in Europe so I count the prices I paid for the parts.

 

[notsodeadlizard]

"The speakers sounded noticeably louder"

And that is great!

 

[SIY]

I'm in the process of building a set of loudspeakers and decided to make new loudspeaker cables for these speakers. On the internet I found the Mogani coaxial speaker cable and I liked the idea because it's different then the standard cables Mogani coaxial speaker cable.
After a little search I found Sommercable, a German brand, also had coaxial speaker cable, it's a little bit cheaper then the Mogami and Thomann sells these the meter so I ordered 8 meter.

The manufacturer claims it's 2x2,5mm2 (AWG13)

View attachment 269270

View attachment 269271

View attachment 269272

View attachment 269273
To me it looks at least close to 2,5mm2

View attachment 269274
Red heat shrink tube around the core and black around the shielding

View attachment 269276
The end result with parts-express locking banan plugs and a Neutrik 2P Speakon connector.

View attachment 269277
Both cables, at the second cable I did a double black heat shrink tube around the shielding because then it looks the same diameter as the red.

I'm happy with the result, it's a highly flexible cable and pretty thin compared to standard 2,5 mm2 speaker cable.
And I'm sure it will "sound" great.

Cost is about € 60,- for 2 cables, almost half of the price are the Parts-express locking banana's, the speakon connectors are the cheapest part.
I'm in Europe so I count the prices I paid for the parts.

I use the same locking bananas- they do a great job of making and maintaining solid contact.

Why choose coaxial construction for speaker cables?

 

[SSS]

I'm in the process of building a set of loudspeakers and decided to make new loudspeaker cables for these speakers. On the internet I found the Mogani coaxial speaker cable and I liked the idea because it's different then the standard cables Mogani coaxial speaker cable.
After a little search I found Sommercable, a German brand, also had coaxial speaker cable, it's a little bit cheaper then the Mogami and Thomann sells these the meter so I ordered 8 meter.

The manufacturer claims it's 2x2,5mm2 (AWG13)

View attachment 269270

View attachment 269271

View attachment 269272

View attachment 269273
To me it looks at least close to 2,5mm2

View attachment 269274
Red heat shrink tube around the core and black around the shielding

View attachment 269276
The end result with parts-express locking banan plugs and a Neutrik 2P Speakon connector.

View attachment 269277
Both cables, at the second cable I did a double black heat shrink tube around the shielding because then it looks the same diameter as the red.

I'm happy with the result, it's a highly flexible cable and pretty thin compared to standard 2,5 mm2 speaker cable.
And I'm sure it will "sound" great.

Cost is about € 60,- for 2 cables, almost half of the price are the Parts-express locking banana's, the speakon connectors are the cheapest part.
I'm in Europe so I count the prices I paid for the parts.

Hi, how did you connect the cable ends to the banana plug? Was it presolderd or a clamping sleeve or just the copper?
As so far, nice cables and good DIY idea.

 

[Blumlein 88]

I use the same locking bananas- they do a great job of making and maintaining solid contact.

Why choose coaxial construction for speaker cables?

Like described the coaxial speaker cables can be supple. Also sleek and easy to run without looking like some snake or whatever. Some churches use them for these reasons too. Easy to pull thru conduit to hide them. Maybe the OP has other reasons.

 

[Speedskater]

In the past RG11/U coax cable with a 14AWG solid center conductor was sometimes used as a speaker cable,

 

[RayDunzl]

Heavy gauge solid conductor coax is a thing:

 

[Jim Shaw]

As an electrical engineer (PE) and long-time audio enthusiast, I cannot think of any reasonable circumstance calling for shielded 4 or 8 ohm speaker-level cables. But if they make you feel better about yourself or give brag rights, go for it. After all, music is fantasy, too.

The Speakon connectors are nice and reliable though. They were invented for pro audio, where connection quality and rigor are assets. Are you likely to yank on the cables often?

 

[JayGilb]

I'm probably wrong, but it looks like you used the shield for the positive (red) lead.

 

[RayDunzl]

I'm probably wrong, but it looks like you used the shield for the positive (red) lead.

I thought he'd be using the core of two cables for the signal.

Didn't look closely.

Oh well.

 

[SSS]

As an electrical engineer (PE) and long-time audio enthusiast, I cannot think of any reasonable circumstance calling for shielded 4 or 8 ohm speaker-level cables. But if they make you feel better about yourself or give brag rights, go for it. After all, music is fantasy, too.

The Speakon connectors are nice and reliable though. They were invented for pro audio, where connection quality and rigor are assets. Are you likely to yank on the cables often?

Perhaps it may help to reduce the RF due to the shield when using a class-D amplifier.

 

[Jim Shaw]

Perhaps it may help to reduce the RF due to the shield when using a class-D amplifier.

If there's any RF left after filtering. There shouldn't be much in a decent D design. (If there was, the amp would never get FCC type approval.)

 

[OldHvyMec]

I've used a few stinger speaker cables. I like a SC copper # 18 for a monitor section. The shielding is just icing on the cake if you use it or not.
I double the runs and connect the shielding only at one end.

The terminal ends you chose are gold plated over what? I like them except the little expansion pin CAN get lost. It comes all the way out if you
don't sench it in place when you assembly the cables. There are also COPPER Speak-On terminal ends vs rhodium or SS over iron.

You may not think it matters, it does. The choice of material is literally what you are going to hear or NOT HEAR. I look at the cable construction too.
How was the center conductor pushed/drawn through the dies? Paying attention to detail makes a difference in continuity in cable building. Audio cables
have followed the leader in the industrial commercial fields.

How you build a 100K Cann Buss cable makes a lot of difference. Speaker cables and IC are no different. Either you care or you don't about YOUR work.
Does it change what you hear? Depends on the builder. The quality goes DOWN from there.
The material today you have to try to buy bad cables. How they are put together is a whole different story..

I have seen a lot of well built cables VISUALLY, that were a disaster when you really looked at what they did. 50 years of chasing BAD cables down.
Tell me all about how a cable is cable.

All vanilla ice cream taste the same. Now that is funny. I'm looking at 5 kg of different vanilla beans as I speak.
BTW they are an ORCHID pod, not a flower pod. Enjoy your vanilla ice cream, I sure enjoy mine, after all, all vanilla taste the same. LOL Don't trust your
taste buds though. You can't trust them. I can't quit laughing. Maybe it's the WEED. I'm going to bottle some more Vanilla with POLISH Vodka. Single Malt
vodka, just like Scotch. Neither fit for human consumption. BUT if I were to indulge, they make my head hurt less.

Time to feed the goat. The one that ate my hat. Grass cuttin' duty is on the menu.

Regards

 

[Zapper]

As an electrical engineer (PE) and long-time audio enthusiast, I cannot think of any reasonable circumstance calling for shielded 4 or 8 ohm speaker-level cables. But if they make you feel better about yourself or give brag rights, go for it. After all, music is fantasy, too.

I can think of one reason: living next to a high power radio transmitter. In any other scenario, coax adds unwanted capacitance.

 

[SIY]

If there's any RF left after filtering. There shouldn't be much in a decent D design. (If there was, the amp would never get FCC type approval.)

It won't matter much anyway- a 5 meter cable is not an efficient antenna for a 400 meter wavelength signal.

 

[SSS]

If there's any RF left after filtering. There shouldn't be much in a decent D design. (If there was, the amp would never get FCC type approval.)

It should be so, you are right. But I am not sure at least with DIY class-D modules.

 

[SSS]

It won't matter much anyway- a 5 meter cable is not an efficient antenna for a 400 meter wavelength signal.

This right. What I mean ist that nearfield capacitive coupling can happen into small signal circuits like RIAA preamps.

 

[SIY]

This right. What I mean ist that nearfield capacitive coupling can happen into small signal circuits like RIAA preamps.

This isn't near field.

TBH, I have never experienced any issues with such in phono and mike preamps either.

 

[nsfgp]

I'm probably wrong, but it looks like you used the shield for the positive (red) lead.

Quote "Red heat shrink tube around the core and black around the shielding"

 

[sejarzo]

I'm probably wrong, but it looks like you used the shield for the positive (red) lead.

Why would that matter? Same amount of current flows through either lead, right?