Buckeye Hypex NC252MP Amplifier Teardown

[Labjr]

If someone is building a nice dedicated theater, object based audio is definitely worth it if speaker placement is done right. For most home theater in a living room or semi-dedicated room setup, I find 5.1.4 the best.

So 9-10 channels of amplification? IMO, it would have to be a dedicated home theater room even for overhead speakers. Not many women would allow HT in the living room. I would enjoy setting it up though.

I'm thinking NC252MP amps may work well with Tekton speakers since they're real efficient.

 

[Dmitri]

Late to the game...again...but just want to congratulate you Buckeye. Nicely done...and I give you major kudos for having the cojones to put your work up to scrutiny by what I must say is an extremely picky group of engineers/ professionals/ enthusiasts. I’m none of those guys...I’m one of the few relatively clueless members here... but I understand quality. The look under the hood is clean and tidy, and shows an attention to detail that appeals to my OCD personality. The few caveats shown are minor, and your obvious intention to make the changes suggested admirable.
Well done!

 

[Buckeye Amps]

I am switching from Mogami W2549 (22awg) to West Penn 231 (22awg) for the XLR wiring but having just received the West Penn wire I am a little...perplexed. It is listed as 22awg per conductor with 7x30 strands, however it seems smaller overall per conductor compared to the Mogami (with 30x0.08 if I am reading the specs right).

Does that seem right?

 

[Labjr]

I am switching from Mogami W2549 (22awg) to West Penn 231 (22awg) for the XLR wiring but having just received the West Penn wire I am a little...perplexed. It is listed as 22awg per conductor with 7x30 strands, however it seems smaller overall per conductor compared to the Mogami (with 30x0.08 if I am reading the specs right).

Does that seem right?

Aggregate size of 7x30ga= 22ga

 

[Buckeye Amps]

Aggregate size of 7x30ga= 22ga

What would the aggregate size of the Mogami be? I know it's listed as 22awg but I can't figure out how to confirm based on the spec sheet (I believe it says 30x0.08).

Because the Mogami definitely seems a size bigger than the West Penn. So I'm debating returning the 22awg West Penn and getting 20awg (though it only comes in 4 conductor at that size).

Or am I overthinking how critical awg size is for the internal balanced wiring?

 

[Labjr]

What would the aggregate size of the Mogami be? I know it's listed as 22awg but I can't figure out how to confirm based on the spec sheet (I believe it says 30x0.08).

Because the Mogami definitely seems a size bigger than the West Penn. So I'm debating returning the 22awg West Penn and getting 20awg (though it only comes in 4 conductor at that size).

Or am I overthinking how critical awg size is for the internal balanced wiring?

Mogami spec sheet say .12mmx30. So it's also 22ga. It's only a few inches long. I can't imagine it makes a lot of difference. You don't like Mogami?

BTW, West Penn wire doesn't appear to be shielded.

 

[Buckeye Amps]

It's only a few inches long. I can't imagine it makes a lot of difference. You don't like Mogami?

I love it but in lowering the costs to where they are at now I wanted to find something cheaper so I can bulk up. Best I found for the Mogami was 0.75 per foot. The West Penn is 0.15 per foot. And easier to work with being 3 conductor (instead of having to use the sheilding of the Mogami and wire shrink it).

But I also just found a 20awg Belden 3 conductor that should work perfectly for 0.2 a foot.

 

[Labjr]

Personally, I'd pay the difference for the Mogami. The West Penn appears to be unshielded. Not sure if the input cables needs to be shielded. Perhaps someone else can answer that.

 

[Hemi-Demon]

I wouldn't cut costs on the wiring, orbat least offer for the mogami wiring as a "option". I am enjoying my 2 channel VERY much by the way. Thanks

 

[Buckeye Amps]

I wouldn't cut costs on the wiring, orbat least offer for the mogami wiring as a "option". I am enjoying my 2 channel VERY much by the way. Thanks

I'm glad to hear that!

And ok. I'll pay for the Mogami.

 

[bmc0]

Another possible option is Talent microphone cable. $0.225/ft at 100ft and $0.188/ft at 500ft. I bought 100ft a while back and have been satisfied with it. I haven't used Mogami cable so I can't say how it compares.

 

[amirm]

Maybe this one https://www.amazon.com/Knoweasy-Aut...-75inch/dp/B07WFL122J/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl

Oh, I hate those! Use them in this kind of heavy work and you will get nasty blisters by your thumb! I use these (and their clones): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OQ21CA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They are automatic and as long as the cutter is sharp, work well.

 

[Buckeye Amps]

Thanks @amirm , ordered!

 

[Buckeye Amps]

Decided to pay the price and stick with the Mogami. Mine as well not change what has been working

 

[jjmcubed]

Parts update:

- Switching to a 2-conductor 16awg Black/White power wire that also has an outer insulating coat, so it can be run next to the LED wiring
- Switching to a Green/Yellow striped 16awg for Ground
- Switching to a serrated/teethed washers for the ground connection
- Will use Red and Black 20awg for Power LED
- Will also use Red 20awg for the Vout Standby coming off the first module going to the 12v Relay
- Switching to a Green 20awg wire for the PS Enable wiring coming off the relay (Not entirely the correct wire color for DC, but it does denote Power Enable for ATX wiring scheme....I wanted Purple but it wasn't available)

Still looking for best way for securing cables without needing to worry about drilling more holes (but if it is necessary will go that route)

Did you make this switch before or after my build?

 

[dorirod]

Oh, I hate those! Use them in this kind of heavy work and you will get nasty blisters by your thumb! I use these (and their clones): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OQ21CA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They are automatic and as long as the cutter is sharp, work well.

I actually have the ones you mentioned as my main strippers, and don't like them as much. Maybe they need adjusting but they don't always strip on first try, and they tear up the sheathing. The other ones I saw recommended by Adam Savage, I haven't used them myself.

 

[Buckeye Amps]

I think I know the answer but: can I overkill it on the new Mains wiring? Lol

The new wire I ordered is twisted black/white 16awg with outer insulation. But it wasn't until it arrived that I realized it is meant for outdoor use. It's about as thick as a common 3-prong IEC plug but super flexible. Price was actually very reasonable.

Only issue I see with it is now I definitely won't want to use any wire tie mounts that aren't screwed down or snapped in.

Another question: how close can I secure the mains wire next to the PSU section of the Hypex module? I was thinking of using one of the screw mounts on the pcb board to attach a zip tie to help secure this new wire better during routing. But wasn't sure if there is an issue with it running right next too the PSU section.

Thanks!

 

[Francis Vaughan]

Be sure that the cable doesn't impart any residual force on the connectors and you should be fine. Thicker cable needs care to avoid this.
I would resist using the PCB mounting screws. It is just more messy, and makes things harder to work with. You seem to have quite a few holes ready punched in the bottom plate. You might have a look at either using rivets to mount small rings to tie down to, or possibly rivet nuts. I really like rivet nuts. They make a for a very neat and strong result, and you could consider using them for most of the construction.

 

[Buckeye Amps]

Be sure that the cable doesn't impart any residual force on the connectors and you should be fine. Thicker cable needs care to avoid this.
I would resist using the PCB mounting screws. It is just more messy, and makes things harder to work with. You seem to have quite a few holes ready punched in the bottom plate. You might have a look at either using rivets to mount small rings to tie down to, or possibly rivet nuts. I really like rivet nuts. They make a for a very neat and strong result, and you could consider using them for most of the construction.

Thanks! I plan on stripping back a good amount of the insulation at the connector ends to help ease any stress.
I also got push mount cable ties that can fit in existing holes or new 1/4" holes if I drill them.

Regarding the pcb screws. I wasn't going to use the actual screws to hold down a mount/tie but instead was thinking of looping a small cable tie around the screw stud/shaft that connects the bottom metal plate of the module to the pcb board. Then I could use this small loop to cable tie the wires to with another zip tie as a means of holding them in place along the front end of the case. So they wouldn't be up on top of the pcb but still along the bottom case panel, just hugging up against the modules edge.

 

[Billy Budapest]

So 9-10 channels of amplification? IMO, it would have to be a dedicated home theater room even for overhead speakers. Not many women would allow HT in the living room. I would enjoy setting it up though.

I'm thinking NC252MP amps may work well with Tekton speakers since they're real efficient.

Oh, my HT setup is very wife friendly. Speaker placement isn’t optimal, but surrounds are hidden away in the corners and the Atmos speakers are hidden behind the screen. No need for overhead speakers—the reflecting speakers work just as well if not better since the overhead sfx are a little more diffuse rather than coming from pinpoint areas on the ceiling.