Buckeye Hypex NC252MP Amplifier Teardown

[Buckeye Amps]

Be sure you're getting genuine Neutrik parts by going through an authorized distributor. There's generic types of questionable quality and possibly knock-offs out there.

So far I've been getting them from Mouser (authorized per Neutrik). However I found a very reptuable eBay seller here in the States who has a large bulk of them new that I am ordering a few from to check for quality, as his price would beat Mouser.
Is there something that would stick out when comparing a genuine Neutrik to a generic/rip off?

 

[Labjr]

So far I've been getting them from Mouser (authorized per Neutrik). However I found a very reptuable eBay seller here in the States who has a large bulk of them new that I am ordering a few from to check for quality, as his price would beat Mouser.
Is there something that would stick out when comparing a genuine Neutrik to a generic/rip off?

I haven't compared Neutrik parts from different sources. However, I usually order only a couple pieces together with other electronic parts so I'm not as concerned about price savings. I would be sure they're sealed in the original poly bags that are labeled with part numbers and bar codes etc.,same as the originals. Have known genuine parts on hand to compare. If you see a large discount that seems way out of line with all the authorized resellers, question it. Could be surplus, closeouts etc. But the seller should be able to explain. They didn't get them for free. How can they give them away? There are so many counterfeit electronic parts, it hard to keep up with all of it. It's a huge industry.

Speakon and Powercon connectors are designed to carry a lot of current so I wouldn't trust generic ones. I've read that the twist lock mechanism on the generic ones is lousy.

 

[gattaca]

^^^ I cannot emphasize @Labjr guidance enough.

Purchase parts and supplies only from reliable, known supply chains like Mouser, Digikey, Grainger, Newark, ...to lower the risk of getting counterfeit parts. Also be aware that well known counterfeit tactic is to ship "good parts" initially and then substitute counterfeits later when you might have stopped checking. I got some Neutrik parts from eBay a while back and I checked the seller was listed as a distributor so just do your homework. The same goes for anything from Amazon. The Chinese (and others) are flooding supply markets with counterfeits of nearly everything imaginable.

 

[Buckeye Amps]

^^^ I cannot emphasize @Labjr guidance enough.

Purchase parts and supplies only from reliable, known supply chains like Mouser, Digikey, Grainger, Newark, ...to lower the risk of getting counterfeit parts. Also be aware that well known counterfeit tactic is to ship "good parts" initially and then substitute counterfeits later when you might have stopped checking. I got some Neutrik parts from eBay a while back and I checked the seller was listed as a distributor so just do your homework. The same goes for anything from Amazon. The Chinese (and others) are flooding supply markets with counterfeits of nearly everything imaginable.

Where they listed on the Neutrik Authorized page? Or a different way of checking?

 

[gattaca]

^ Yes, I usually hit the manufacturer's pages and some suppliers will post a listing of what they are authorized resellers for. Many manufacturers also show their resellers and some post warnings about unauthorized sellers and list those by name. I'm pretty sure Mouser is an authorized agent for many, many parts - been using them for years. You want to insure your parts are authentic.

Funny, just yesterday I was looking up authorized resellers for Hakko soldering irons as my 25+ year old cheap iron has finally played out. Turns out "cheap Chinese counterfeits" are a real problem for this item. YMMV.

 

[Buckeye Amps]

Thanks!

 

[Labjr]

^ Yes, I usually hit the manufacturer's pages and some suppliers will post a listing of what they are authorized resellers for. Many manufacturers also show their resellers and some post warnings about unauthorized sellers and list those by name. I'm pretty sure Mouser is an authorized agent for many, many parts - been using them for years. You want to insure your parts are authentic.

Funny, just yesterday I was looking up authorized resellers for Hakko soldering irons as my 25+ year old cheap iron has finally played out. Turns out "cheap Chinese counterfeits" are a real problem for this item. YMMV.

I use Mouser and Digikey most of the time.

Not sure which soldering station you're looking at but Kimco has about the best price right now for the FX888D. I buy Kester solder and supplies from them. Home Depot probably will price match and it gets drop shipped direct from Hakko USA. Order extra tips at the same time to save shipping costs. I have soldering stations from Hakko, Weller and Pace. If you're only doing occasional soldering, there are fairly inexpensive Chinese made stations that perform well for the money, such as the KSGER T12 which can use OEM Hakko cartridge tips.

I only buy quality brand name solder too. Most of the generic stuff is crap.

 

[Jdunk54nl]

.

Funny, just yesterday I was looking up authorized resellers for Hakko soldering irons as my 25+ year old cheap iron has finally played out. Turns out "cheap Chinese counterfeits" are a real problem for this item. YMMV.

I have the premier 3 channel soldering station from here. They are a Phoenix based company with good prices and products. We use quite a few of their things for the schools I work for due to being local to me and prices. Never had one issue with any of them and I’ve been using their stuff for nearly 10 years (my soldering station is going on 10 years old now)
https://www.circuitspecialists.com/soldering-stations

 

[gattaca]

^^^^ THANKS for the recommendations. I never even thought to check HD for Hakko and Kimco is spot on too - WOW.
Circuit Specialists also has some great looking equipment at very reasonable prices. 10 years for a station is a good compliment and I see the 3 channel unit listed. 10-4 on high-quality solder. Kester is the main-stay techs swear by and it is US based. I think MG Chemical is too - which I see often. I'm not a "pro..." Just looking for good, reliable and "Made in the USA" when possible unit.
THANKS for both recommendations! You made my day!

 

[Buckeye Amps]

Well the eBay seller did not pan out. Got the connectors and right off the bat noticeable difference: font of the "PUSH" lettering was drastically off, metal body was a different shade of black, plastic shrouding different color, and the crimp connectors were very very shallow/had very little tightening to them.

Back to going through Mouser. Will cost me more but worth it.

 

[Buckeye Amps]

Hypex saw Amir's teardown review and reached out to me to confirm his suggestions (kudos to @amirm as he touched on everything they recommended). However, in their email Hypex told me to use Black for Neutral and White for Phase (hot). But in his review amir said Black for Phase (hot) and White for Neutral.

Which is correct? (or did Hypex maybe just switch the terms unintentionally)

 

[Matias]

Maybe EU versus US color standards?

 

[gattaca]

^^^ Typically, in the US in production items I've seen (and disassembled) - Black is AC (HOT) and White is AC (Neutral) with Green being Ground. IDK what the rules are outside the USA.

 

[Jdunk54nl]

Ya, home electrical uses white as neutral and black as hot.

 

[Buckeye Amps]

I'll just assume they mixed up their message when Hypex emailed me. Black hot, white neutral it is (also confirmed through Google search). Pre-wiring a bunch of cables and parts right now so I can fill orders a lot more quickly, so just wanted to double check.

Thanks!

 

[Labjr]

If the ICE inlet on the chassis is wired correctly, the hot wire at the plug end should go into the narrow slot of the duplex wall outlet.

 

[amirm]

Hypex saw Amir's teardown review and reached out to me to confirm his suggestions (kudos to @amirm as he touched on everything they recommended). However, in their email Hypex told me to use Black for Neutral and White for Phase (hot). But in his review amir said Black for Phase (hot) and White for Neutral.

Which is correct? (or did Hypex maybe just switch the terms unintentionally)

They must have made a typo. Please ask them to confirm.

 

[Buckeye Amps]

For my own curiosity.....what will happen if the hot and neutral were wired backwards inside the case (so mains hot actually goes to the neutral on the Hypex PCB, neutral goes to hot)?

I have zero intentions of ever making this mistake (multiple checks/OCD prevent me from plugging it in for testing until I confirm I didn't make a mistake). But would it immediately create a short/blow a fuse?

 

[Labjr]

For my own curiosity.....what will happen if the hot and neutral were wired backwards inside the case (so mains hot actually goes to the neutral on the Hypex PCB, neutral goes to hot)?

I have zero intentions of ever making this mistake (multiple checks/OCD prevent me from plugging it in for testing until I confirm I didn't make a mistake). But would it immediately create a short/blow a fuse?

I'm not certain but I don't believe it would harm anything. Generally, in a switch-mode power supply, the AC is first converted to DC by a bridge rectifier.

 

[StefaanE]

For my own curiosity.....what will happen if the hot and neutral were wired backwards inside the case (so mains hot actually goes to the neutral on the Hypex PCB, neutral goes to hot)?

I have zero intentions of ever making this mistake (multiple checks/OCD prevent me from plugging it in for testing until I confirm I didn't make a mistake). But would it immediately create a short/blow a fuse?

I don’t know, I just wanted to signal a small typo in your sig: Hypes should be Hypex... Especially because you’re not into hype.