Which Speaker Cables? A non life threatening question.

[CDMC]

This is intended as somewhat of a fun exercise. I currently use a pair of Wireworld Oasis 8 (might be 7s) cables that I solder terminated with beryllium copper low mass BFA Z-plug bananas. Why the Wireworld. Well, I purchased 30 feet of it for about $80 off of a spool a few years ago. Why the z-plugs? They make a super tight connection (sometimes too tight) and were not bad to solder and then heat shrink and I paid about $25 for 20 of them. There is one issue with the cables, they are bright blue and I am trying to make my system a bit less intrusive and wife 2.0 happier with the living room so I don't have to go shopping for 3.0.

So I am looking at two different cable options. The first is the Blue Jeans Canare 4S11 biwired with bananas. I am attracted to these because Blue Jeans ultrasonically welds the cables, so no air to get in and corrode the connection. I am a bit picky about this, as the only speaker cable that I have ever had that made a difference in sound was one that was defectively soldered by the manufacture and corroded.

The second option I am looking at are Krux Kable Interlaced Braid 3d speaker wire, which is simply a Kimber Cable 8vs knock off. Their information is listed here:
http://www.knukonceptz.com/home-the...rlaced-braid-3d-copper-12-gauge-speaker-wire/

So here are my thoughts/questions:

1) Braided cables raise capacitance in exchange for lowering inductance. I know that this can cause some amplifiers to oscillate. I currently use a Sunfire Stereo amplifier (technically a Class H amplifier). If I ever replace it, it will be with a Hypex of Purifi. Speakers are either Magnepan 3.5s or Revel F208s. I don't believe I have any concerns here, anyone think otherwise?

2) If I get the Krux Kables, I will probably terminate them with Seawell Deadbolts, as they are fast and easy to use. I like the aesthetics of the Krux Kables. Long term, would you be concerned about cable oxidation since the connection is not gas tight?

3) Which would you pick? Why?

 

[SIY]

I would pick #12 twin lead from Home Depot. Black or brown insulation. Cheap, works.

 

[CDMC]

I would pick #12 twin lead from Home Depot. Black or brown insulation. Cheap, works.

But I want grey.

 

[SIY]

Picky, picky, picky.

 

[CDMC]

Thats what I keep telling her.

 

[SIY]

Go for 3. That's what I did and never regretted it.

 

[CDMC]

Go for 3. That's what I did and never regretted it.

I don’t want to spend that much.

 

[SIY]

It wasn't cheap, that's true.

 

[preload]

Doubt you'd be able to tell the difference between the two options in a DBT. If your loudspeakers have big swings in impedance vs. frequency, then in theory, higher DC resistance and/or higher inductance speaker cable might cause 0.1-0.3dB (ballpark) swings in your FR curve. In theory, that would be audible.

If you're concerned about high capacitance cables causing oscillation, you could always contact the amp manufacturer and ask them what their design limits are. I did this with McIntosh, Benchmark, Bel Canto, and Denon. All, but Denon, gave me an intelligent answer. I doubt the capacitance of the commonly available braided cables will cause problems with commonly available mainstream amps (but always good to check). You should definitely confirm if you're planning to use the extremely low inductance (and extremely high capacitance) flat cables...or you could just slap on a Zobel.

 

[AudioQuestShill]

IF low frequency is much import to you, I recommend audioquest cable. Really opened up the sound stage and the bass for me

 

[Sal1950]

If you like your cables shop for some cheap braided cable covering in any color the OL likes. There's tons of stuff out there once you start looking. Get something really nice and you can even BS your HiFi buddies that you bought big buck Nordumb or such.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cable-Mana...850345?hash=item284c10a229:g:hMQAAOSwwDRd4JMN

 

[JP]

But I want grey.

https://www.amazon.com/Hook-Self-Closing-Braided-Sleeving/dp/B00QSH2MDC/

 

[Sal1950]

IF low frequency is much import to you, I recommend audioquest cable. Really opened up the sound stage and the bass for me

How'd it do that? Supporting measurements please.

 

[SECA_alan]

Some good suggestions above, great idea: grey nylon braided tube of an appropriate size, secured with heatshrink. Wrap the braid with tin foil when heating the heatshrink to avoid it melting.

 

[SIY]

How'd it do that? Supporting measurements please.

Look at the handle. He's having fun.

 

[mhardy6647]

I would pick #12 twin lead from Home Depot. Black or brown insulation. Cheap, works.

But I want grey.

https://www.techflex.com/

Available in a full spectrum of colo(u)rs -- from spouse2.0-friendly to bring on spouse3.0!

 

[CDMC]

If you like your cables shop for some cheap braided cable covering in any color the OL likes. There's tons of stuff out there once you start looking. Get something really nice and you can even BS your HiFi buddies that you bought big buck Nordumb or such.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cable-Mana...850345?hash=item284c10a229:g:hMQAAOSwwDRd4JMN

i am embarrassed to say, I didn’t even think of this. Problem solved.

 

[win]

This is intended as somewhat of a fun exercise. I currently use a pair of Wireworld Oasis 8 (might be 7s) cables that I solder terminated with beryllium copper low mass BFA Z-plug bananas. Why the Wireworld. Well, I purchased 30 feet of it for about $80 off of a spool a few years ago. Why the z-plugs? They make a super tight connection (sometimes too tight) and were not bad to solder and then heat shrink and I paid about $25 for 20 of them. There is one issue with the cables, they are bright blue and I am trying to make my system a bit less intrusive and wife 2.0 happier with the living room so I don't have to go shopping for 3.0.

So I am looking at two different cable options. The first is the Blue Jeans Canare 4S11 biwired with bananas. I am attracted to these because Blue Jeans ultrasonically welds the cables, so no air to get in and corrode the connection. I am a bit picky about this, as the only speaker cable that I have ever had that made a difference in sound was one that was defectively soldered by the manufacture and corroded.

The second option I am looking at are Krux Kable Interlaced Braid 3d speaker wire, which is simply a Kimber Cable 8vs knock off. Their information is listed here:
http://www.knukonceptz.com/home-the...rlaced-braid-3d-copper-12-gauge-speaker-wire/

So here are my thoughts/questions:

1) Braided cables raise capacitance in exchange for lowering inductance. I know that this can cause some amplifiers to oscillate. I currently use a Sunfire Stereo amplifier (technically a Class H amplifier). If I ever replace it, it will be with a Hypex of Purifi. Speakers are either Magnepan 3.5s or Revel F208s. I don't believe I have any concerns here, anyone think otherwise?

2) If I get the Krux Kables, I will probably terminate them with Seawell Deadbolts, as they are fast and easy to use. I like the aesthetics of the Krux Kables. Long term, would you be concerned about cable oxidation since the connection is not gas tight?

3) Which would you pick? Why?

You could always just get some cable sleeving and keep what you have. It's really cheap and looks great.

https://www.cable-sleeving.com/cable-sleeving-m

If you're concerned about corrosion, which you probably shouldn't be, you can always pack the terminal with dielectric grease. I use dielectric grease for tube pins and older rca connections that I don't trust.

 

[CDMC]

You could always just get some cable sleeving and keep what you have. It's really cheap and looks great.

https://www.cable-sleeving.com/cable-sleeving-m

If you're concerned about corrosion, which you probably shouldn't be, you can always pack the terminal with dielectric grease. I use dielectric grease for tube pins and older rca connections that I don't trust.

Thanks for the suggestion on the dielectric grease. I can’t believe I never thought of it, especially since I have used it for exterior light and sprinkler connections.

 

[mhardy6647]

Thanks for the suggestion on the dielectric grease. I can’t believe I never thought of it, especially since I have used it for exterior light and sprinkler connections.

I know that dielectric grease is an actual thing -- but, to me, it always sounds like something you need to have when you do a replacement of Lucas wiring harness smoke in an old(er) British automobile.

Lucas: The Prince of Darkness.