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What cables do you use in your systems?

First, let's just get this out of the way before I get accused of snake oil peddling: Cables indeed will NOT make an audible difference.

So. . .are you the guy (or the gal) who insists on Home Depot or Amazon/Monoprice cables or maybe even your 40 year old Radio Shack cables or do you do a little extra when it comes to cables? What are those extras?

Here are my extras.

1) I try to use all balanced signal cables for noise rejection purposes. I fully realize that under normal circumstances and normal short runs, noise is generally not an issue.

2) I use Canare L-4E6S signal cables and Canares 4S11 speaker cables because of the star quad configuration for furthermore noise rejection. I also recognize under "normal" circumstances that this is not necessary. I tend to gravitate towards Canare than other pro cables such as Belden or Mogami for no apparent reason; and I am sure other pro cables will do just the same, besides, why wouldn't it.

3) I really like cables with locking terminals, such as locking banana and locking RCA when I have to use single ended signal cables. The locking mechanism helps to ensure that the cable doesn't come off from being loose over time. XLR by default are locking, I believe only on the female end or is it the male end? Would be nice if it was locking on both ends.

4) I like jewelry, so having cables in fancy cable pants and nylon braiding wins my heart.

5) I used Tripp Lite locking power cables. I have had few times where power cables would get loose and fall out over time. That has happened to my media/file server on two occasions. I would use the 14 AWG for power amps and 18 AWG for other electronics. I fully recognize that 14 AWG is overly abundant even for the most power hungry amp.

6) Not cable but cable related. I have self diagnosed OCD, where tangled and openly exposed cables will drive me nuts. So I mount server rack cable highways to my AV shelf to help me with cable management. It looks damn slick!

So what are some of your cable extras?
 
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First, let's just get this out of the way before I get accused of snake oil peddling: Cables indeed will NOT make an audible difference.

So. . .are you the guy (or the gal) who insists on Home Depot or Amazon/Monoprice cables or maybe even your 40 year old Radio Shack cables or do you do a little extra when it comes to cables? What are those extras?

Here are my extras.

1) I try to use all balanced signal cables for noise rejection purposes. I fully realize that under normal circumstances and normal short runs, noise is generally not an issue.

2) I use Canare L-4E6S signal cables and Canares 4S11 speaker cables because of the star quad configuration for furthermore noise rejection. I also recognize under "normal" circumstances that this is not necessary. I tend to gravitate towards Canare than other pro cables such as Belden or Mogami for no apparent reason; and I am sure other pro cables will do just the same, besides, why wouldn't it.

3) I really like cables with locking terminals, such as locking banana and locking RCA when I have to use single ended signal cables. The locking mechanism helps to ensure that the cable doesn't come off from being loose over time. XLR by default are locking, I believe only on the female end or is it the male end? Would be nice if it was locking on both ends.

4) I like jewelry, so having cables in fancy cable pants and nylon braiding wins my heart.

5) I used Tripp Lite locking power cables. I have had few times where power cables would get loose and fall out over time. That has happened to my media/file server on two occasions. I would use the 14 AWG for power amps and 18 AWG for other electronics. I fully recognize that 14 AWG is overly abundant even for the most power hungry amp.

6) Not cable but cable related. I have self diagnosed OCD, where tangled and openly exposed cables will drive me nuts. So I mount server rack cable highways to my AV shelf to help me with cable management. It looks damn slick!

So what are some of your cable extras?
You've pointed out accurately that there are valid reasons to put a little extra coin into interconnects, reasons that have nothing to do with audio quality.
 
You've pointed out accurately that there are valid reasons to put a little extra coin into interconnects, reasons that have nothing to do with audio quality.
Most definitely. My biggest turnover was in cheap headphone cables until I moved to the next level. Now I pay 5x what I used to but rarely replace it. I also like to use brightly coloured coax interconnect to quickly find the cable at the back of the rack amongst all the black power cables.
 
You've pointed out accurately that there are valid reasons to put a little extra coin into interconnects, reasons that have nothing to do with audio quality.
Most definitely. My biggest turnover was in cheap headphone cables until I moved to the next level. Now I pay 5x what I used to but rarely replace it. I also like to use brightly coloured coax interconnect to quickly find the cable at the back of the rack amongst all the black power cables.
Sometimes I feel the people who loathes cables or even just hearing others buying cables that cost a little more or even have a little extra compared to Amazon basic, Monoprice or the Home Depot house brand is either because they are utilitarian or they are just so disgusted with snake oil cables it becomes a natural recoil.

The truth is, cheap Home Depot cables are just that, they are cheap. They are meant to be made with the least amount of cost as possible, the copper may or may not oxidate and the dielectric may or may not crack over time, but we know they look cheap, they feel cheap, because they are cheap.

I (and I am pretty sure many others in this hobby and on ASR) are fortunate enough to be able to "splurge" on "fancy cables," for no good reason aside from the fact that they look and feel better, better constructed that may or may not matter, have practical functionalities such as locking terminals. And I reckon that it's ok to buy cables that costs a more than the basic Home Depot house brand, nothing wrong with that, so long as you are not buying it believing it will make your system sound better.

I buy World Best Cables from Amazon for signal cables, they use some of the best materials from the pro cable market and they are well constructed. I buy Blue Jeans Cable using Carare 4S11 for speaker cables, because the cables are ultra sonically welded to locking banana plugs. Canare star quad cables have been tested to reject noise and have proven longevity and reliability in the pro audio world.
 
For the details, please visit my post here on my project thread, and you should never solder the crimped tin-electroplating pure copper terminals (ref. here);
WS00006775.JPG
 
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Serious question-

my new Eversolo DMP-A8 is replacing a Cambridge Audio 851n which will now do duty in a secondary system ….. I don’t have a “decent” coax cable laying around , but have plenty of “decent” analog RCA cables on hand ….

will one of those suffice to use as a SPDIF-SPDIF connection in place of a “real” coax cable for use with the 851n system ?

is there anything “special” about a short - 1 meter - run RCA terminated “coax” cable vs analog RCA cable ?

thanks

bk
 
It will probably be fine.

The RCA connector was never designed with impedance matching in mind, meaning that the fact that s/pdif adopted this connector would indicate that it isn't really a critical component. Otherwise s/pdif would always use BNC.

Try it. If you don't get dropouts, it's all good.
 
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Interconnects: YES

Speaker cable: YES

Coax cable: NO

USB cable: NO

Power cable: YES
 
It will probably be fine.

The RCA connector was never designed with impedance matching in mind, meaning that fact that s/pdif adopted this connector would indicate that it isn't really a critical component. Otherwise s/pdif would always use BNC.

Try it. If you don't get dropouts, it's all good.
Thanks !
bk
 
will one of those suffice to use as a SPDIF-SPDIF connection in place of a “real” coax cable for use with the 851n system ?
Almost all RCA interconnect cables are coax cables. That is one central wire, surrounded by a shield.
For short SPDIF cables (say 10 feet/ 3 meters or less), almost all reasonable quality RCA cables will work.
 
Interconnects
RCA - Radio Shack gold end ones
XLR - Benchmark

speaker - 12ga extension cord wire

coax - Straight Wire

USB - none

power cables - what came in the box
 
I've always used regular interconnect's, like not the cheapest, but the most quality feeling ones for say £10 for RCA. Speakers wire I've always bought 12 gauge OFC copper wire and added brass banana plugs.

I've borrowed expensive cables before to see if it makes any difference, and it doesn't to my ears.
 
Interconnects: DIY Belden and Canare terminated with Canare RCAP, Switchcraft or KLE RCAs

Speaker: DIY Belden and Canare terminated with G&H or Neutrik XLRs

USB: I don’t like soldering USB connectors, so these were purchased…Lindy Anthra USB 2.0

Power: DIY Supra LoRad 2.5 terminated with Wattgate plugs
 
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Platinum Studio has to be the best
because they equipped high-end xlr plugs of silver
then that cable costs a lot of money
cable is called W3402
but here comes the trick
tag w3173 vs W3402 same data
4 meters w3173 with xlr connector costs 54 euros here in Europe
can also be used for active speakers
check data
 
Platinum Studio has to be the best
because they equipped high-end xlr plugs of silver
then that cable costs a lot of money
cable is called W3402
but here comes the trick
tag w3173 vs W3402 same data
4 meters w3173 with xlr connector costs 54 euros here in Europe
can also be used for active speakers
check data
Interesting find. Did you try them or compare them? Would be a great hack to get hq for cheaper
 
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