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What amp would you buy?

JeremyFife

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my main amp and loudspeakers are connected to my Yamaha DSP a2 too, so when watching movies I need to use the auxiliary connection of my pre amp where the Yamaha is connected to run the main amp and speakers. Hope to be understandable.
So, if I understand;

Eversolo => analogue => Pre-Amp (input 1) => Power-Amp => Speakers
and
Yamaha DSP A2 => analogue => Pre-Amp (input 2) => Power-Amp => Speakers

Can you change to this?
Yamaha DSP A2 => digital => Eversolo => New Power-Amp => Speakers

What else is your Yamaha driving? how many channels?
If you look at a company like BoXem Audio (there are others, but they are EU based) they offer multi-channel Hypex Nx500 amplifiers. You could use your Yamaha as a multichannel processing pre-amp and get a new multichannel power amp.

Again, others here know more about Home Theatre.
There is actually an interesting argument for changing your Yamaha DSP A2: upgrading to a newer AVR and using that as your main music system too. That way you only have one system. I don't know enough to recommend one, but the Denon's look good.

You can just replace your Classe 70 and be happy. It doesn't hurt to think about your entire system as a whole too though.
Apologies if this is needlessly complex!
 

zermak

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My suggestion is to get a more powerful amp with balanced inputs/XLR so that you can drive it directly from the Eversolo* (note below) to drive the loudspeakers to the sound pressure levels you need and then use the RCA/unbalanced outs of the Eversolo to the Yamaha DSP a2 for your home theater needs.

In your actual setup, if my math is correct, the Classé Audio Four pre has a Line input sensitivity of 0,12V so if you wanna feed it a clean signal you have to set the Eversolo volume setting at -27dB FS. What volume setting are you using now?

And if you wanna try to connect the Eversolo directly to the Classé Audio Model 70 amplifier you should not go over -9dB FS (better -10dB FS to be safe) on the Eversolo volume setting (which is when the amp should reach its maximum clean power by specs).

*note: the Eversolo that you have has an excellent DAC and it is very good as a volume controller/pre device too. Amir has tested the DMP-A6 and it's definitely a very trasparent DAC (at -2dB FS it has less than 0,0002% THD, -116dB); better than the Classé preamp that you are using now: specs says it's rated at 0,1% THD (-60dB).
 

Willem

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I cannot understand why the Eversolo DAC should be sonically challenged. In fact, it should be rather better than the Classe preamp. However, comparisons should be done level matched. My advice would be to connect the Eversolo directly using xlr to the new power amp. Make sure to match the output and input sensitivities. These days, preamplifiers are usually unncessary - in fact a DAC with volume control is a modern version of a preamplifier. I am afraid I have to idea about HT gear.
 

Ze Frog

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I cannot understand why the Eversolo DAC should be sonically challenged. In fact, it should be rather better than the Classe preamp. However, comparisons should be done level matched. My advice would be to connect the Eversolo directly using xlr to the new power amp. Make sure to match the output and input sensitivities. These days, preamplifiers are usually unncessary - in fact a DAC with volume control is a modern version of a preamplifier. I am afraid I have to idea about HT gear.
Yeah, don't really see why a separate pre and DAC is needed at all. Me personally I'd rather have as few boxes as possible.
 
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aduarte66

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So, if I understand;

Eversolo => analogue => Pre-Amp (input 1) => Power-Amp => Speakers
and
Yamaha DSP A2 => analogue => Pre-Amp (input 2) => Power-Amp => Speakers

Can you change to this?
Yamaha DSP A2 => digital => Eversolo => New Power-Amp => Speakers

What else is your Yamaha driving? how many channels?
If you look at a company like BoXem Audio (there are others, but they are EU based) they offer multi-channel Hypex Nx500 amplifiers. You could use your Yamaha as a multichannel processing pre-amp and get a new multichannel power amp.

Again, others here know more about Home Theatre.
There is actually an interesting argument for changing your Yamaha DSP A2: upgrading to a newer AVR and using that as your main music system too. That way you only have one system. I don't know enough to recommend one, but the Denon's look good.

You can just replace your Classe 70 and be happy. It doesn't hurt to think about your entire system as a whole too though.
Apologies if this is needlessly complex!
Hello,

Thanks for your time. My Yamaha cannot be connected to the eversolo, there is no point in doing so as it streams only music and the Yamaha is only for cinema. The Yamaha is 5.1 channels and no intention to touch it at the moment.

My audio system is independent from the HT system and should remain this way, although sharing the main channels through a different input in the classe pre-amp. That is why I need a pre-amp in the way.
 
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aduarte66

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My suggestion is to get a more powerful amp with balanced inputs/XLR so that you can drive it directly from the Eversolo* (note below) to drive the loudspeakers to the sound pressure levels you need and then use the RCA/unbalanced outs of the Eversolo to the Yamaha DSP a2 for your home theater needs.

In your actual setup, if my math is correct, the Classé Audio Four pre has a Line input sensitivity of 0,12V so if you wanna feed it a clean signal you have to set the Eversolo volume setting at -27dB FS. What volume setting are you using now?

And if you wanna try to connect the Eversolo directly to the Classé Audio Model 70 amplifier you should not go over -9dB FS (better -10dB FS to be safe) on the Eversolo volume setting (which is when the amp should reach its maximum clean power by specs).

*note: the Eversolo that you have has an excellent DAC and it is very good as a volume controller/pre device too. Amir has tested the DMP-A6 and it's definitely a very trasparent DAC (at -2dB FS it has less than 0,0002% THD, -116dB); better than the Classé preamp that you are using now: specs says it's rated at 0,1% THD (-60dB).
Hello,

I do not need to connect my A6 to the Yamaha, it is for audio only and the Yamaha for HT purpose only. My HT system is share my audio main amp and speakers, but the audio is independent. So Apple TV. DVD and PS are connected to Yamaha and Eversolo and CD are connected to Pre-amp Classe. I use Yamaha pre-out for the main channel to classe pre-amp in auxiliary input. So in this way audio system is apart from HT.

I tried to connect DMP-A6 to amp directly but didn't like the sound at all, very flat and without dynamics and I need to have the input to the Yamaha, so need to have the pre-amp for that purpose.

"In your actual setup, if my math is correct, the Classé Audio Four pre has a Line input sensitivity of 0,12V so if you wanna feed it a clean signal you have to set the Eversolo volume setting at -27dB FS. What volume setting are you using now?" At the moment I have the pre-amp volume fixed ate 3 o ´clock and change volume with A6 is is more comfortable and practical. But following you advice, I have set A6 at -27db and changed volume on the amp. Brilliant, absolutely no lack of control just beautiful sound very dynamic nice bass, only two problems sound pressure is about 85bd at maximum on the amp and I have to stand up to change volume. Nice to know the maximum volume that I can use on A6, thanks a lot.

I have set amp volume to the maximum and listening using A6 volume knowing that should not pass -27bd results in no audible distortion to my ears. Very nice.

I can conclude that I need a more powerful amp if to use volume above 85db of SPL, so I keep looking for a new amp.
 
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dlaloum

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Maybe clipping is not the right word, it is probably more distortion and the sound becoming unpleasant with lack of control. Despite the fact that I need a pre-amp to passthrough to my home theater system, I deed try to connect the eversolo directly to the amp, it was a total disaster, no dynamics, very flat and dead sound.
I experienced something that could be similar to what you are describing - IMO it was due to running out of current due to the 1.6ohm low point of my spealers impedance curve, and the resulting distortion then polluting the whole frequency range.
Using amps that can handle 1 ohm loads fixed the problem... (the problem amp was in my AVR, and using either of my Quad 606 or Crown XLS2500 fixed the problem)- same AVR has no issues when driving "easier" loads.
 
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aduarte66

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I cannot understand why the Eversolo DAC should be sonically challenged. In fact, it should be rather better than the Classe preamp. However, comparisons should be done level matched. My advice would be to connect the Eversolo directly using xlr to the new power amp. Make sure to match the output and input sensitivities. These days, preamplifiers are usually unncessary - in fact a DAC with volume control is a modern version of a preamplifier. I am afraid I have to idea about HT gear.
I need a pre-amp for two reasons:

One is as explained before, to connect audio system to HT.

the second because I have connected A6 directly to amp and it sounded really bad, flat, no dynamic and SPL was really low (don't recall the number).
 

LTig

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It happens only in very dynamic music with lots of bass. No problem on jazz session or even classical.
One or two active subs with highpassed outputs for the poweramp should fix this, and improve sound quality as well.
 
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aduarte66

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One or two active subs with highpassed outputs for the poweramp should fix this, and improve sound quality as well.
Hello,

I have followed Zermak advise:

"In your actual setup, if my math is correct, the Classé Audio Four pre has a Line input sensitivity of 0,12V so if you wanna feed it a clean signal you have to set the Eversolo volume setting at -27dB FS. What volume setting are you using now?

And if you wanna try to connect the Eversolo directly to the Classé Audio Model 70 amplifier you should not go over -9dB FS (better -10dB FS to be safe) on the Eversolo volume setting (which is when the amp should reach its maximum clean power by specs)."

It resulted in a very clean sound that reaches about 90db and concluded that I need more powerful amp if I want to increase my SPL and that the audible distortion was introduced by the Eversolo.
 
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aduarte66

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DanielT

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.. sound that reaches about 90db and concluded that I need more powerful amp if I want to increase my SPL and that the audible distortion was introduced by the Eversolo.
If you have high SPL and want to play at high volume distortion free or with low/less distortion than you have now, the easiest way to do it is to relieve the speakers and the amplifier from struggling with the lowest frequencies. By:
One or two active subs with highpassed outputs for the poweramp should fix this, and improve sound quality as well.
Then there is the question of which SPL, how distortion-free the OP wants it. Which is mostly a question of wallet size and how much, physically speaking, you want to fill up your listening room with subwoofers. Unfortunately, they are often not exactly beautiful, or aesthetically pleasing.

Fill the room with smaller subwoofers then? So you don't have to see big ugly black cubes in your combined listening room, living room. Could be a solution but physically smaller subwoofers require, as I know you know LTig, a hell of a lot of amp power. Then especially if it is a sealed sub we are talking about. Unfortunately, they are often hopelessly ineffective. In that case, at least upwards of 1000 watts may actually be needed (depending on the type of music you listen to and the listening volume). Just mentioning it in general terms, in case anyone reads who didn't know about it and is thinking about one or more physically small subwoofers.

Squeezing small subwoofers in the corners of the living room provides a good acoustic boost. The advantage is also that this boost automatically gives extra dB to play with if you want to EQ. :)
If for some reason it is basically completely zero at some frequency, it doesn't work but beyond that.
(extreme scenario)

Edit:
I had this sub for a short while. 12 inch small sealed sub. 400 watts amp power. The clipping indicator started flashing even at medium volume:

 
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aduarte66

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If you have high SPL and want to play at high volume distortion free or with low/less distortion than you have now, the easiest way to do it is to relieve the speakers and the amplifier from struggling with the lowest frequencies. By:

Then there is the question of which SPL, how distortion-free the OP wants it. Which is mostly a question of wallet size and how much, physically speaking, you want to fill up your listening room with subwoofers. Unfortunately, they are often not exactly beautiful, or aesthetically pleasing.

Fill the room with smaller subwoofers then? So you don't have to see big ugly black cubes in your combined listening room, living room. Could be a solution but physically smaller subwoofers require, as I know you know LTig, a hell of a lot of amp power. Then especially if it is a sealed sub we are talking about. Unfortunately, they are often hopelessly ineffective. In that case, at least upwards of 1000 watts may actually be needed (depending on the type of music you listen to and the listening volume). Just mentioning it in general terms, in case anyone reads who didn't know about it and is thinking about one or more physically small subwoofers.

Squeezing small subwoofers in the corners of the living room provides a good acoustic boost. The advantage is also that this boost automatically gives extra dB to play with if you want to EQ. :)
If for some reason it is basically completely zero at some frequency, it doesn't work but beyond that.
(extreme scenario)
Hello,

SPL is fine now, just want to have a bit more ceiling for my amp and like I said it is quite old, so it will be my next change. Regarding subwoofers, I have a REL that I do not use since I bought my Audiovectors (29 hz), just don't feel the need of it.

As for your last three paragraphs, I understand it was general information, in my case I have a dedicated room and subwoofers could be installed wherever needed, it would not be a problem. Appreciated very much your suggestion. Thank you.
 

EdW

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At your budget I would get this (or something similar with 1ET9040 purifi modules) and be done with amplification.

Certainly the Purifi 1ET9040 based amplifiers are the best performing amps regardless of expense! And they aren’t that expensive. So you are right about being done with amplification. But these amplifiers substantially outclass the Audiovectors of course
 

Sokel

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But these amplifiers substantially outclass the Audiovectors of course
They do but that's not bad.
There's room for any future speaker upgrade without care,a strong link never hurts.
 
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aduarte66

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Certainly the Purifi 1ET9040 based amplifiers are the best performing amps regardless of expense! And they aren’t that expensive. So you are right about being done with amplification. But these amplifiers substantially outclass the Audiovectors of course
Hello,

I was looking at it but meanwhile found that these two would be a wiser purchase:

 
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