• WANTED: Happy members who like to discuss audio and other topics related to our interest. Desire to learn and share knowledge of science required. There are many reviews of audio hardware and expert members to help answer your questions. Click here to have your audio equipment measured for free!

Topping LA90 Discrete Amplifier Review

Rate this stereo amplifier

  • 1. Poor (headless panther)

    Votes: 15 3.5%
  • 2. Not terrible (postman panther)

    Votes: 21 4.9%
  • 3. Fine (happy panther)

    Votes: 69 16.0%
  • 4. Great (golfing panther)

    Votes: 325 75.6%

  • Total voters
    430
View attachment 416711
Why would you think so? I'm cosidering the LA90D for my tweeters, seems perfect...
The only reason I can see to pay extra for the LA90D is if you need Stereo output and/or the built-in volume control.

For an active 3-way setup with six monoblocks, neither of these seem useful and therefore the cheaper B200 would be a better fit.
 
The only reason I can see to pay extra for the LA90D is if you need Stereo output and/or the built-in volume control.
For an active 3-way setup with six monoblocks, neither of these seem useful and therefore the cheaper B200 would be a better fit.
Ok, I have a different view.
1. I see four stereo amps (my case) as less clutter than 8 monoblocks, particularly when they come with 8 big power blocks too.
2. In an active setup, gain staging is important, so gain control very is useful. It also allows for protective muting of the channel.
3. Mono B200 is near the same cost as one stereo LA90D, so almost twice the price pr. channel? Cheaper how?
4. How much effect would you think tweeters in general need? 200w would fry mine...
5. Under 5kHz, there is little gain in running class AB, so 2xPA5II and PA7+ does a fine job there for me, - the B200 can't touch them either.
6. I'd rather have 2x 4-channel amps with gain control pr. channel and built in powersupplies. 2 boxes, 2 powerwires, not 8 monoblocks and 8 black power cubes needing 8 power outlets :facepalm:.
 
Ok, I have a different view.
1. I see four stereo amps (my case) as less clutter than 8 monoblocks, particularly when they come with 8 big power blocks too.
2. In an active setup, gain staging is important, so gain control very is useful. It also allows for protective muting of the channel.
3. Mono B200 is near the same cost as one stereo LA90D, so almost twice the price pr. channel? Cheaper how?
4. How much effect would you think tweeters in general need? 200w would fry mine...
5. Under 5kHz, there is little gain in running class AB, so 2xPA5II and PA7+ does a fine job there for me, - the B200 can't touch them either.
6. I'd rather have 2x 4-channel amps with gain control pr. channel and built in powersupplies. 2 boxes, 2 powerwires, not 8 monoblocks and 8 black power cubes needing 8 power outlets :facepalm:.
I don't know how much experience you have with active systems/loudspeakers, but:
- Power amplifiers that are connected to a common power supply always influence each other, including crosstalk.
- With an integrated amplifier such as the LA90D with a potentiometer and a common small signal range, this effect is amplified, which is precisely what is not desired in an active system.
- The gain setting is usually done via the active crossover/DSP. The power amplifiers are only preset using gain stages, if available.
- The volume potentiometer is far too imprecise and can be accidentally adjusted at any time. This is particularly dangerous with actively controlled tweeters. Others have had to experience this the hard way.

The B100 would be the better choice for tweeters and midrange speakers, significantly more power with a much lower noise level than the LA90D. That would be the most important thing for me.
The B100 would also be a good choice for woofers if there is an additional subwoofer. In addition, two B100s are cheaper than the LA90D.
If the B100 is not sufficient for the woofers, then the LA90D is out of the question and the B200 is a good choice. It is cheaper and the measured values are better here too.

The bottom line is that the B100, or the combination of B100/B200, would always be cheaper with the same or higher performance than the LA90D, and with lower noise levels.
The devices and power supplies can be neatly and tidily housed in a small rack or ventilated housing.
 
I don't know how much experience you have with active systems/loudspeakers, but:
- Power amplifiers that are connected to a common power supply always influence each other, including crosstalk.
- With an integrated amplifier such as the LA90D with a potentiometer and a common small signal range, this effect is amplified, which is precisely what is not desired in an active system.
- The gain setting is usually done via the active crossover/DSP. The power amplifiers are only preset using gain stages, if available.
- The volume potentiometer is far too imprecise and can be accidentally adjusted at any time. This is particularly dangerous with actively controlled tweeters. Others have had to experience this the hard way.

The B100 would be the better choice for tweeters and midrange speakers, significantly more power with a much lower noise level than the LA90D. That would be the most important thing for me.
The B100 would also be a good choice for woofers if there is an additional subwoofer. In addition, two B100s are cheaper than the LA90D.
If the B100 is not sufficient for the woofers, then the LA90D is out of the question and the B200 is a good choice. It is cheaper and the measured values are better here too.

The bottom line is that the B100, or the combination of B100/B200, would always be cheaper with the same or higher performance than the LA90D, and with lower noise levels.

*Sigh*. Did you read my post? How much experience do you have with active systems? What do you know about my setup? Where is my DSP? How do you know what is "usually done" in gain staging, and why is it valid for me? Why do I want "significantly more power" for my tweeters? How much higher performance can you promise from my tweeters? How much lower noise from the B100/200 do you say? How much cheaper for 8 channels? Who mentioned the B100? I would want it either, for the same reasons, even at half the price. Finally, the gain control used in the Pre90 is excellent, they should all have one.

The devices and power supplies can be neatly and tidily housed in a small rack or ventilated housing.
I already own a few, and I don't like them. Every one has cable in and cable out in addition that need management and poweroutlets. Nothing neat and tidy about them. How many do you own, and show me your neat rack or ventilated housing, please :)? That takes up no space?

Actually Topping makes a rack version, RA3, I just can't buy it from here yet.
1735388018266.jpeg

Bring out 4-channel versions, and I'm in for two ;).

Here's my c.o. & amp stack, for now. In addition there's an E70V for digital source and a Pre90/Ext for gain matching all sources. And more ;).

1735385816385.png
 
4. How much effect would you think tweeters in general need? 200w would fry mine...
200w will fry any mid-woofer in any home hi-fi speaker... You have no idea what is going on in your speakers and amplifiers.
A tweeter with a sensitivity of 90dB (like all dome tweeters) when listening at high volume in a room will never, and I repeat never, reach more than 5W!! And 5w is really a lot for a tweeter.
Repeating for the umpteenth time: if you don't have enough pressure in a room with 50 or at most 100W of amplifier, you have the wrong speaker, not the wrong amplifier...
 
200w will fry any mid-woofer in any home hi-fi speaker... You have no idea what is going on in your speakers and amplifiers.
A tweeter with a sensitivity of 90dB (like all dome tweeters) when listening at high volume in a room will never, and I repeat never, reach more than 5W!! And 5w is really a lot for a tweeter.
Repeating for the umpteenth time: if you don't have enough pressure in a room with 50 or at most 100W of amplifier, you have the wrong speaker, not the wrong amplifier...
Really, I know, it was a rhetorical question. That's why I'm buying smaller (but better) tweeter amps. My Genelec Triamp 1022a has 7W amps for tweeters, 32W for midrange, 150w bass. 108 dB sustained/121dB peak ;).

So I'm not buying the LA90D for more power, but for less power, better S/N ratio and less distortion above 5kHz. And again, the gain control is essential to control/limit gain. Here are the converts, btw, mine are a little later BQ LTD version ;).
 
Really, I know, it was a rhetorical question. That's why I'm buying smaller (but better) tweeter amps. My Genelec Triamp 1022a has 7W amps for tweeters, 32W for midrange, 150w bass. 108 dB sustained/121dB peak ;).
That's not accurate:

Gen.PNG


(link)

By the same metrics the OP amp can very well be in the 5W area for continuous.

(and at 121dB I think these would fly if it's per speaker/at 1meter)
 
That's not accurate:

View attachment 418525

(link)

By the same metrics the OP amp can very well be in the 5W area for continuous.

(and at 121dB I think these would fly if it's per speaker/at 1meter)
Well, there are two different versions, before and after serial #1089, perhaps that explains it. Mine are 0259 and 0257. But here's the link for the spec I quoted. As for SPL, I usually play them between 80 and 90dB, but highpassed @85Hz. They can play much louder :D.

1735990534606.png
 
Well, there are two different versions, before and after serial #1089, perhaps that explains it. Mine are 0259 and 0257. But here's the link for the spec I quoted. As for SPL, I usually play them between 80 and 90dB, but highpassed @85Hz. They can play much louder :D.

View attachment 418535
Not much different,and if that continuous spec is across all tweeter's range up to 20KHz I suspect it can do better than the OP amp.
It surely does much better at transients if the 150W mark is true.
Note that what you see at the OP measurements for power are more like the "transient" ones at the sheet you posted.
 
Not much different,and if that continuous spec is across all tweeter's range up to 20KHz I suspect it can do better than the OP amp.
It surely does much better at transients if the 150W mark is true.
Note that what you see at the OP measurements for power are more like the "transient" ones at the sheet you posted.
Explain please, how many 1985 watts would you say the LA90D has?
Being highpassed at 5kHz, how much power would you think necessary to drive my JBL 035Tia tweeters, which are the actual targets?

Here's the 1022a tri-amp pack, for those interested. Pretty neat ;).
1736000202418.jpeg
 
Explain please, how many 1985 watts would you say the LA90D has?
Being highpassed at 5kHz, how much power would you think necessary to drive my JBL 035Tia tweeters, which are the actual targets?

Here's the 1022a tri-amp pack, for those interested. Pretty neat ;).
View attachment 418570
If it's about to power tweeters only I would expect no problem at all with music.
I wouldn't worry about continuous power at all for such an application.
 
That's not accurate:



(link)

By the same metrics the OP amp can very well be in the 5W area for continuous.

(and at 121dB I think these would fly if it's per speaker/at 1meter)
This is a wonderful document!

It is practically the same amplifier for all 3 ways, which will then be changed on modern active speakers including Genelc because it makes no sense and increases noise and distortion.
But the fundamental thing is that while below 400hz 150w arrive, above 3.5khz 10w arrive... This is clearly to produce the 110dB or so that the speaker made.
And if you Take away 20sb spl, so 90db of output, you have 1.5W at the bass, and 0.1w at the tweeter...
But there will always be someone who says that 50W of amplifier is not enough
 
Should I go with la90, pa7 or arcam sa20 for either borea br09 or kef r5 towers? Hard to pick
 
Should I go with la90, pa7 or arcam sa20 for either borea br09 or kef r5 towers? Hard to pick

Personally I wouldn't be touching topping unless you have a local supplier prepared to give proper long term after sales support.

Which from your list would leave you with the Arcam.

But also personally I'd also be looking at a hypex or purify based class D amp for the higher power ratings.
 
Toppings break?
It is not so much that (though the first version of the PA5 had horrible reliability) It is that if they do break (and all devices from any manufacturer have a failure rate), their normal solution for you is to send it back to China for service, because they have no local service possibilities.

I'm prepared to risk that for something at the <£200 range like my Fosi V3. But not for something at the price level of those on your list. There are equally good, higher power devices at the same price or lower, with good local support that I would buy first.
 
I heard some people saying LA90 sounds boring and analytical. Is that a case?
No, it sounds what it is - transparent. And will sound like any other transparent amp - including all those on your list - if operated within power limits.


If someone is used to a badly performing amp, with lots of noise, uneven frequency response, or lots of distortion (such as a tube amp) it might sound different from what they are used to and they might not like it for that reason.

But in that case, the LA90 is objectively much higher fidelity.
 
Did topping finally fixed L90s reliability issues? I see that many people had problems a good year ago.
 
Did topping finally fixed L90s reliability issues? I see that many people had problems a good year ago.
There is only LA90 Discrete. In this amplifier, Topping changed the built-in modules for NFCA, as in the PA5 II.
Since then, reports of problems have drastically decreased.

But as @antcollinet already said, I would also buy such expensive devices from a dealer in my country.
 
Back
Top Bottom