Topping D10s USB DAC and Bridge Review

[Schlippwhip68]

The D10s uses USB bus power, 5.0 V at up to 0.5 A. If the Jitterbug can't handle that, just what can it be used with?

Maybe Audioquest themselves should make this clear.

 

[AudioSceptic]

Maybe Audioquest themselves should make this clear.

If there are no warnings or restrictions stated on the packaging or product, we can only assume that it's safe to use with any "normal" USB device.

 

[Mort]

Love this DAC as a USB input and spdif output. It allows me to store the same PEQ in the same device (Wiim Ultra) for my AO300 desktop for both music via computer or Wiim enabled music stream.

Still $70 used from Shenzhen audio on eBay.

 

[JasonC331]

Have one with a Topping HSO2 in front and for what I need works flawlessly, there is noise at the tweeter after installing this, to be fair could only hear it if I had a loud volume and hit pause, but dead silent now.

 

[Mike_Trueman]

Is the Topping D10s the way to go to connect my Marantz Model M1 to my PC?
PC USB-->D10s-->M1

 

[Mort]

Is the Topping D10s the way to go to connect my Marantz Model M1 to my PC?
PC USB-->D10s-->M1

Yep. As long as that toslink is open on the M1

 

[rcstevensonaz]

Is the Topping D10s the way to go to connect my Marantz Model M1 to my PC?
PC USB-->D10s-->M1

What is your intended connection to the M1? Analog (RCA) or Optical?

The D10S will work for both RCA analog or S/PDIF (optical, coax).

However, if you are looking for just optical, you could also just pick up a USB to S/PDIF Optical adapter for around $20 USD from Amazon. Or either of the following from Hifime: Hifime S2 Digi (USD $50 + shipping) or Hifime UT23 (USD $30 + shipping).

 

[Mike_Trueman]

What is your intended connection to the M1? Analog (RCA) or Optical?

The D10S will work for both RCA analog or S/PDIF (optical, coax).

However, if you are looking for just optical, you could also just pick up a USB to S/PDIF Optical adapter for around $20 USD from Amazon. Or either of the following from Hifime: Hifime S2 Digi (USD $50 + shipping) or Hifime UT23 (USD $30 + shipping).

I have the ALC4080 mobo soundcard which has a S/PDIF output.
But is it not best to bypass the mobo soundcard and connect from USB (Mobo) to the Model M1 SPDIF IN connection for the best sound quality?

 

[staticV3]

I have the ALC4080 mobo soundcard which has a S/PDIF output.
But is it not best to bypass the mobo soundcard and connect from USB (Mobo) to the Model M1 SPDIF IN connection for the best sound quality?

View attachment 390545

Your mobo S/PDIF output should do just fine.

The only reason that I can see for switching to a USB converter is if you want to use Equalizer APO, which tends to not work very well with onboard audio output.

Used with USB audio devices, it's usually smooth sailing.

Still, if you want to use a USB converter for peace of mind, then I'll mirror what's been said above: Topping D10s is not necessary. A $20 Cubilux converter or the Hifime UT23 will do just as well.

And if you want true peace of mind, then with a Hifime UR23 you can actually measure and record the quality of various Toslink output devices.

The software for this is completely free (Room EQ Wizard, Pkane Deltawave, Pkane Multitone Analyzer).

 

[Mort]

Is there a coax version of those adapters? I know it's not an audible difference in most circumstances.

 

[Mike_Trueman]

Your mobo S/PDIF output should do just fine.

The only reason that I can see for switching to a USB converter is if you want to use Equalizer APO, which tends to not work very well with onboard audio output.

Used with USB audio devices, it's usually smooth sailing.

Still, if you want to use a USB converter for peace of mind, then I'll mirror what's been said above: Topping D10s is not necessary. A $20 Cubilux converter or the Hifime UT23 will do just as well.

And if you want true peace of mind, then with a Hifime UR23 you can actually measure and record the quality of various Toslink output devices.

The software for this is completely free (Room EQ Wizard, Pkane Deltawave, Pkane Multitone Analyzer).

So there is no loss in music quality with a Cubilux converter?

USB C to SPDIF Adapters

Cubilux

www.cubilux.com

 

[Killingbeans]

But is it not best to bypass the mobo soundcard and connect from USB (Mobo) to the Model M1 SPDIF IN connection for the best sound quality?

The toslink output on the mobo is also digital, so no loss of sound quality. And it gives perfect galvanic isolation as a bonus.

 

[staticV3]

So there is no loss in music quality with a Cubilux converter?

No loss.

 

[staticV3]

Is there a coax version of those adapters? I know it's not an audible difference in most circumstances.

SMSL PO100 Pro
Douk Audio U2
Douk Audio U2 Pro
ddHiFi TC100-COA
ddHiFi TC100S

 

[Mike_Trueman]

No loss.

At this moment i am listening to 32 bits, 192Khz but i see the Cubilux only can send 24bit max (48 KHz/24-bit to 192 KHz/24-bit)
If i am listening to 5158kbps flac music files the quality still is the same?

Yeah i know i am a bit paranoia but i want to know for sure
I am using the SMSL AO300 untill i got my M1.

 

[staticV3]

At this moment i am listening to 32 bits, 192Khz but i see the Cubilux only can send 24bit max (48 KHz/24-bit to 192 KHz/24-bit)
If i am listening to 5158kbps flac music files the quality still is the same?

PCM24/192 is the limit of your Marantz M1's Optical input (or any optical input for that matter).

No matter which USB converter you use, you will not be able to transmit higher data rate audio than that via Optical.

In the first place, 24bit 48kHz is enough to fully saturate the human hearing.

Higher bit depths and sample rates than that serve zero purpose for music listening. They do not improve audio quality, only waste resources.

 

[Mike_Trueman]

PCM24/192 is the limit of your Marantz M1's Optical input (or any optical input for that matter).

No matter which USB converter you use, you will not be able to transmit higher data rate audio than that via Optical.

In the first place, 24bit 48kHz is enough to fully saturate the human hearing.

Higher bit depths and sample rates than that serve zero purpose for music listening. They do not improve audio quality, only waste resources.

Thanks for explaining.

 

[rcstevensonaz]

Still, if you want to use a USB converter for peace of mind, then I'll mirror what's been said above: Topping D10s is not necessary. A $20 Cubilux converter or the Hifime UT23 will do just as well.

And my comment was just a mirror of the many excellent comments by @staticV3 on this topic from previous threads.

 

[Killingbeans]

At this moment i am listening to 32 bits, 192Khz

32 bits gives 1528dB ~192dB of dynamic range. Maybe just a wee bit overkill. Especially when considering that the 1883 Krakatoa eruption was "only" 180dB
192kHz sample rate gives you a treble extension to 96kKz. Probably not beneficial unless you're a bat or a dolphin.

Toslink has no problem delivering audio quality way beyond the capabilities of human hearing. Yes, sometimes the jitter can look pretty horrific in measurements, but more often than not it's completely benign in terms of audibility.

EDIT: Massive brain fart corrected.

 

[somebodyelse]

32 bits gives 1528dB of dynamic range.

That seems wrong. Isn't it ~6dB/bit for linear PCM giving ~192dB? Still more than enough to cover the range from brownian motion of air molecules up into distortion due to atmospheric nonlinearity. Not that any DAC measured here can reach 24 bits worth yet - effective number of bits for the best is 20.3.