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Topping D10s USB DAC and Bridge Review

Had the same question for my D10s used as a squeezebox server, and found a solution in post 41 of the following thread by member DeLub (thanks!).

https://audiosciencereview.com/foru...sb-source-ipad-and-usb-dac.25414/post-1180356




created a file /etc/udev/rules.d/90-usb-power.rules with above code which works well for my Topping D10s and this makes it go into stan

Had the same question for my D10s used as a squeezebox server, and found a solution in post 41 of the following thread by member DeLub (thanks!).

https://audiosciencereview.com/foru...sb-source-ipad-and-usb-dac.25414/post-1180356




created a file /etc/udev/rules.d/90-usb-power.rules with above code which works well for my Topping D10s and this makes it go into standby mode.

Hope this helps as an alternative option.
Hello, I have tried to create the file in the indicated path, entering picoreplayer installed in a sd in my raspberry through ssh, creating the file with the echo command and adding the command with the vi editor, saved successfully, but when I restart picoreplayer the file disappears.

Could you indicate how you generated the file? Thank you
 
PSX_20240604_033901.jpg


Does anyone use their D10s primarily to turn their PC's USB sound output, into Coax/Optical SPDIF? I pretty much just realised (last week) that the D10s' secondary function is USB > SPDIF lol, and, because of my situation (the one about to describe in the next paragraph), I'd like to use it on my 99.9%: 16 bit 44.1/88.2kHz, or 24 bit 44.1/88.2/96/176.4/192kHz library (all compatible with SPDIF)

Using the D10s' digital outs, I'd like to switch between my two best DACs without the usual hassle, because right now, it can be (and usually is) way more of a pain than it needs to be. I have to exit Tidal, exit Equalizer APO, start Equalizer APO, let it find the newly attached device, select the newly attached device in the menu so that the equalizer settings will be applied to it, click yes on the elevated Windows privilege to make hardware settings change, make sure eq settings are right, launch Tidal, turn up system volume because it always gets pushed down to 60, and THEN the music can play through the new DAC. But that's when a driver issue like the following hasn't happened:
Say your PC has two USB 2.0 Ports, 1 and 2. You connect D10s to 1: the driver gets installed to port 1. Move D10s to 2? A second copy of the driver is installed. Want to uninstall the driver for 2, but the device is plugged into port 1 (or not plugged in at all)?(it could be preventing you from using DAC 2 in USB port 2 because it thinks DAC 2 is DAC 1 (for example E70 Velvet was in it already, and when you go to put E30 II in, it's seen as Velvet and doesn't operate properly). So you have to select:
1717487569159.png

and then you can
1717487715597.png

right click the light-greyed icon (light grey illustrating the"normally hidden" status of the device) to bring up the drop down menu with the option to begin uninstalling the device.

All that junk you just read? I've had to do- and variations of it -as well as additions to it! Some many of which, I didn't delve into here because the point of including it at all was illustrating the process, how it can be involved, that after repetition would become annoying.

What I want is to NOT have a "process" at all - I'd like to just have the D10s plugged into the same port on the computer - when I want to switch the DAC, I can just move the optical and XLR cables from the Sabre to the Velvet, and the computer sees NO difference! Tidal didn't even have to pause!

Coincidentally, using optical this way will free up my USB isolator for use (my sleek little HS02) where it's required - I won't have to bring it back and forth.


Now you know my use of the D10s... Is its clock of sufficient caliber feed my DACs {and better DACs in the future} with a quality, jitter-free signal? I'll usually just be going back and forth between DACs, but sometimes entirely different ones may be substituted (friends' DACs, auditioning new DACs in a few years etc)

D70 Pro Sabre #1
E70 Velvet #2
 
Does anyone use their D10s primarily to turn their PC's USB sound output, into Coax/Optical SPDIF? I pretty much just realised (last week) that the D10s' secondary function is USB > SPDIF lol, and, because of my situation (the one about to describe in the next paragraph), I'd like to use it on my 99.9%: 16 bit 44.1/88.2kHz, or 24 bit 44.1/88.2/96/176.4/192kHz library (all compatible with SPDIF)
This is the fantastic benefit of the D10S and D10B. It is why they are my go-to DAC now for that flexibility to equally feed downstream analog and digit audio chains.

Say your PC has two USB 2.0 Ports, 1 and 2. You connect D10s to 1: the driver gets installed to port 1. Move D10s to 2? A second copy of the driver is installed. Want to uninstall the driver for 2, but the device is plugged into port 1 (or not plugged in at all)?(it could be preventing you from using DAC 2 in USB port 2 because it thinks DAC 2 is DAC 1 (for example E70 Velvet was in it already, and when you go to put E30 II in, it's seen as Velvet and doesn't operate properly).
In general, all TOPPING DACs share the same set of drivers and thus have the same embedded device ID. I find the naming issues a challenge when shifting between my E30 and D10B since they both show up with a generic name such as "TOPPING USB DAC". There is a method where you can add a FriendlyName for the device using the Registry Editor (regedit). But just be aware that the FriendlyName is tied to that particular USB port number and the same DAC will again show up as "TOPPING USB DAC" if you plug it into any other port. So the FriendlyName approach only works when you plug always plug the same DAC into the same USB port (and the other DAC always into the same other USB port).

it's seen as Velvet and doesn't operate properly
How does it not work properly when seen as a Velvet? And what version driver is being used for the E70 Velvet?

Do you have the latest TOPPING USB driver installed (v5.62), which lists support for both TOPPING E30 II and E70 Velvet (and nearly every other DAC). You might try uninstalling all of the TOPPING USB drivers that you do have installed, and then doing a reinstall of just the v5.62 so that it is used for everything.

What I want is to NOT have a "process" at all - I'd like to just have the D10s plugged into the same port on the computer - when I want to switch the DAC, I can just move the optical and XLR cables from the Sabre to the Velvet, and the computer sees NO difference! Tidal didn't even have to pause!
This will work. As long as the D10S remains plugged in on the USB side, your PC will not see any difference on how the D10S outputs are connected, swapped, etc.
 
This is the fantastic benefit of the D10S and D10B. It is why they are my go-to DAC now for that flexibility to equally feed downstream analog and digit audio chains.


In general, all TOPPING DACs share the same set of drivers and thus have the same embedded device ID. I find the naming issues a challenge when shifting between my E30 and D10B since they both show up with a generic name such as "TOPPING USB DAC". There is a method where you can add a FriendlyName for the device using the Registry Editor (regedit). But just be aware that the FriendlyName is tied to that particular USB port number and the same DAC will again show up as "TOPPING USB DAC" if you plug it into any other port. So the FriendlyName approach only works when you plug always plug the same DAC into the same USB port (and the other DAC always into the same other USB port).

Weird, in Linux (raspberry pi with moOde audio OS), my D10s shows up just by name. I do not have other Topping devices to test though, if there would be driver issues.

1717571076205.png
 
This is the fantastic benefit of the D10S and D10B. It is why they are my go-to DAC now for that flexibility to equally feed downstream analog and digit audio chains.


In general, all TOPPING DACs share the same set of drivers and thus have the same embedded device ID. I find the naming issues a challenge when shifting between my E30 and D10B since they both show up with a generic name such as "TOPPING USB DAC". There is a method where you can add a FriendlyName for the device using the Registry Editor (regedit). But just be aware that the FriendlyName is tied to that particular USB port number and the same DAC will again show up as "TOPPING USB DAC" if you plug it into any other port. So the FriendlyName approach only works when you plug always plug the same DAC into the same USB port (and the other DAC always into the same other USB port).


* How does it not work properly when seen as a Velvet? And what version driver is being used for the E70 Velvet?

Do you have the latest TOPPING USB driver installed (v5.62), which lists support for both TOPPING E30 II and E70 Velvet (and nearly every other DAC). You might try uninstalling all of the TOPPING USB drivers that you do have installed, and then doing a reinstall of just the v5.62 so that it is used for everything.


This will work. As long as the D10S remains plugged in on the USB side, your PC will not see any difference on how the D10S outputs are connected, swapped, etc.

* Well the driver for the Velvet allows for adjusting the balance in advanced audio properties dialog box (from Control Panel > Sound), so the particulars installed by the driver are different. Another thing, the Velvet allows for sending 16/24/32 while most other topping DACs don't allow for 16 (in the Windows advanced properties anyway)

Funny thing, I didn't know there was a D10B, but I was looking at some pictures of my D10S, and its board is called D10B, so I think I received one of those instead!

Good to know about the FriendlyName, I'll keep it in mind for the future
 
Weird, in Linux (raspberry pi with moOde audio OS), my D10s shows up just by name. I do not have other Topping devices to test though, if there would be driver issues.

View attachment 373288
My D10s shows up by name too (but in Windows), unless another Topping DAC has been plugged into that same port and I haven't uninstalled its driver from Computer Management > Device Manager yet (it'll show up as the other DAC until I do)
 
My D10s shows up by name too (but in Windows), unless another Topping DAC has been plugged into that same port and I haven't uninstalled its driver from Computer Management > Device Manager yet (it'll show up as the other DAC until I do)
Interesting. So that means that there is something distinct about the device information hardcoded on the various TOPPING DACs. In which case, it seems that it should be possible to clone the device configuration file (.inf?) so that the USB driver is replicated specific to each device singularly (rather than the current method where all devices are being mapped to the same driver).
 
I interested in using a D10s with the PC and was wondering if the Audioquest Jitterbug FMJ would be safe to use with the usb? I am asking with the hope that some of out more learned brothers may know if the Jitterbug will allow whatever power the D10s requires to pass through it safely. Some qualified understanding here would help prevent a potentially dangerous electrical misunderstanding. Thankyou in advance.
 
I interested in using a D10s with the PC and was wondering if the Audioquest Jitterbug FMJ would be safe to use with the usb? I am asking with the hope that some of out more learned brothers may know if the Jitterbug will allow whatever power the D10s requires to pass through it safely. Some qualified understanding here would help prevent a potentially dangerous electrical misunderstanding. Thankyou in advance.
I have a Topping D10s directly fed by to a Beelink mini computer in my audio system. This DAC does not need any filter inserted in the USB line between it and the PC driving it. I used to have an Audioquest jitterbug and sold it when I acquired a D10s. It made no difference in measured jitter performance when I measured the D10s/JItterbug combination.The graph below from Amir's review shows the D10s stand alone jitter performance .

Don't waste any money on the Jitterbug! It did not improve jitter performance. Basically worthless in my system. Spend the money on new music instead.

1724692409268.png
 
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I interested in using a D10s with the PC and was wondering if the Audioquest Jitterbug FMJ would be safe to use with the usb? I am asking with the hope that some of out more learned brothers may know if the Jitterbug will allow whatever power the D10s requires to pass through it safely. Some qualified understanding here would help prevent a potentially dangerous electrical misunderstanding. Thankyou in advance.
Amir tested the Jitterbug a while ago <https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...audioquest-jitterbug-usb-filter-review.10205/>. It does nothing useful.
 
Amir tested the Jitterbug a while ago <https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...audioquest-jitterbug-usb-filter-review.10205/>. It does nothing useful.
Yeah funny that, I have a HP Prodesk 400 G6 which I use everyday for web stuff and music and I tried the Audioquest Jitterbug FMJ with an Fiio KA11 dongle dac running via Chord Clearway X 3.5MM to twin RCA into an Nad C316Bee V2 amp which in turn pushes out to a pair of Wharfedale 12.2 speakers and there IS a notable difference when either using the Jitterbug and not using the Jitterbug in fact so much of an audible difference that I kept the AQ JB FMJ in my system. I wont go into detail but its pretty much the same as everyone else whom heard the benefits of one in their system, just removed a very harsh edge to the sound and very much cleaned the sound. I am not sponsored in any way and actually had the choice to return the little audio gadget if i found no benefit. It's still in there today doing a fine job. In regards to what system these are best employed I would say it certainly works in Small Form Factor, Tower and micro PCs in and around the last 5 years of release.
 
Yeah funny that, I have a HP Prodesk 400 G6 which I use everyday for web stuff and music and I tried the Audioquest Jitterbug FMJ with an Fiio KA11 dongle dac running via Chord Clearway X 3.5MM to twin RCA into an Nad C316Bee V2 amp which in turn pushes out to a pair of Wharfedale 12.2 speakers and there IS a notable difference when either using the Jitterbug and not using the Jitterbug in fact so much of an audible difference that I kept the AQ JB FMJ in my system. I wont go into detail but its pretty much the same as everyone else whom heard the benefits of one in their system, just removed a very harsh edge to the sound and very much cleaned the sound. I am not sponsored in any way and actually had the choice to return the little audio gadget if i found no benefit. It's still in there today doing a fine job. In regards to what system these are best employed I would say it certainly works in Small Form Factor, Tower and micro PCs in and around the last 5 years of release.
Interesting. Could it be that it *does* do something with a very poor (in terms of jitter) source, or what else might explain the result you hear?
 
Yeah funny that, I have a HP Prodesk 400 G6 which I use everyday for web stuff and music and I tried the Audioquest Jitterbug FMJ with an Fiio KA11 dongle dac running via Chord Clearway X 3.5MM to twin RCA into an Nad C316Bee V2 amp which in turn pushes out to a pair of Wharfedale 12.2 speakers and there IS a notable difference when either using the Jitterbug and not using the Jitterbug in fact so much of an audible difference that I kept the AQ JB FMJ in my system. I wont go into detail but its pretty much the same as everyone else whom heard the benefits of one in their system, just removed a very harsh edge to the sound and very much cleaned the sound. I am not sponsored in any way and actually had the choice to return the little audio gadget if i found no benefit. It's still in there today doing a fine job. In regards to what system these are best employed I would say it certainly works in Small Form Factor, Tower and micro PCs in and around the last 5 years of release.
My guess is that was sighted. If you can still tell the difference blind there's a charity donation on the table:
Bottom line, the AudioQuest Jitterbug does one only one thing: it filters your bank account, reducing your balance by $60. If anyone can demonstrate that it makes an audible difference in a controlled blind test, I will donate US $600 to the charity of their choosing.
 
Well, since your subjective preformed opinion will always trump any comments made that rely on measurements, it is useless for anyone to supply you with any more objective data. So in answer to your original question in post #970, I believe you can use the jitterbug dongle with a Topping D10s without any power issues.

Enjoy the music......
 
Well, since your subjective preformed opinion will always trump any comments made that rely on measurements, it is useless for anyone to supply you with any more objective data. So in answer to your original question in post #970, I believe you can use the jitterbug dongle with a Topping D10s without any power issues.

Enjoy the music......
Hi,
The only real thing I was concerned about was would the draw of extra power needed for the D10S cause any damage to the Jitterbug. subjective opinion on whether the jitterbug is of any value audibly in the chain what not the question. It seems that no one actually knows so far, so the question remains open. Remember most if not all machines are built by opinion in the first place, including those that measure so whose to say with absolute authority that those measure correctly in the first place, no one should as that would render a man delusional, after all what came first the bird or the plane and birds have not changed since I was born, planes have though...
 
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Hi,
The only real thing I was concerned about was would the draw of extra power needed for the D10S cause any damage to the Jitterbug. subjective opinion on whether the jitterbug is of any value audibly in the chain what not the question. It seems that no one actually knows so far, so the question remains open. Remember most if not all machines are built by opinion in the first place, including those that measure so whose to say with absolute authority that those measure correctly in the first place, after all what came first the bird or the plane and birds have not changed since I was born, planes have though...
The D10s uses USB bus power, 5.0 V at up to 0.5 A. If the Jitterbug can't handle that, just what can it be used with?
 
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