SMSL DA9 - Wait and see, or solid buy?

[SOUNDSONIC]

I bought the DA-9 yesterday with a pair of Micca BR42. I hope it can deliver a good match. I also have a SMSL SU-9 on my desk which is pretty an endgame to me. In the future i am planning to use this amp and dac combo with better speakers for the main room.

The DA9/SU9 is a great combo. Got this duo and they always give me pleasure everytime they "sing together".

 

[jokan]

I have a Raspberry Pi running piCorePlayer connected via USB to a Topping D10S DAC, SMSL DA-9 amplifier and a pair of old Monitor Audio Bronze BX2 speakers. I find the sound produced extremely good. At maximum volume I can just here a noise with my ear right up to the speakers, which are highly efficient. Normal loud listening is at 30 out of 70 and it sounds very clear. I bought the DA-9 to replace a Marantz PM6004 amplifier and I think it sounds better than the Marantz. So far I am 100% satisfied with the DA-9.

I notice that the DA-9 amplifier is grounded by its power lead, but the old Marantz is not. This could cause a ground loop if connected to a source that is grounded. Could this the the cause of hum some people have heard? The raspberry pi is powered by the official raspberry Pi power supply which has no earth connection.

Japan, until about 20 years ago did not run an earth at all so everything had a IEC plug, but was missing the earth.
NO, the missing earth is not going to cause any noise. I'm in Tokyo, my DA-9 has zero noise. Technically you shouldn't stack the DAC right next to or on top of an amplifier anyway. Try moving the D10s around and change the mains socket location and keep your computer connected to another socket to the amp and DAC. Distance is your friend when using multiple AC adaptors and power bricks. The D10s switches at a different frequency than the DA-9. High powered GPU's from modern graphics cards are essentially noise emitters, and of course your Ras Pi is using an adaptor of some sort or is using USB pass power for it's power source, try changing the USB port that the Ras Pi is drawing power from. I'm not familiar with how your Ras Pi is getting it's power, either it's getting pass-power or your using another adaptor for it's power. Are you starting to see the picture? We are living in a soup of individually regulated and certified to be noise free pieces but together, they are not measured or tested with your precise power connections. And frankly amplifier and DAC makers cannot possibly foresee every power combination. All of my PC power, external HD's and anything computer related is drawing power from a different mains socket, I didn't want to deal with potential noise so I made sure of this when I setup my audio gear. My Audio gear is all connected to a mains power filter expansion block. Which takes DC on the mains type of noise and filters that high frequency noise out without degrading the sound of any audio gear. In fact my power filter makes everything sound cleaner. I think the power filter cost me over $1500 back in the pre-HD tv era. It's probably 20-23 years old now, but it's still working very well. Any noise that is actually coming from inside of the amp in the form of a higher pitched whine, is cause for concern, and you should read literally every single post on this thread as this thread has many potential solutions posted.

Enjoy your gear, try to sort out and play with where all your devices are getting power from. Keep your power for the amplifier and computer separated as much as is physically possible. It's true that it's reasonable to assume that any new amplifier shouldn't have or be susceptible to external noise emissions but that's really asking for a lot when every power brick, wall-wart AC/DC power adaptor and Wi-Fi device is using a power adaptor and or brick. Your PC monitor is likely using it's own power brick too. So it's up to you to move things around to try and clean up power cables and how they are plugged into mains power. Mechanical high frequency whine is usually an internal problem and I've posted my own encounter with white noise over the mains, and mechanical whining sounds from the amps internals. I assure you that my amplifier is dead quiet and I can put my ear right up to the speakers at 70 and my RME dac which acts as the preamp/volume control can be set ultra low and my amp is dead silent. Tweeters are 91db/watt efficient.

Hope this gives you a direction, though like you said, you aren't hearing noise at the volume levels you're usually using, the noise is still probably in the background, so it's worth the investigation.

 

[mario_rouge]

"Hi there,
Connect a subwoofer through the Subwoofer Output of a receiver using an LFE cable.
If there isn't an LFE subwoofer output or LFE input: Connect using an RCA cable.
If the subwoofer features spring clips: Use the speaker output of the receiver to hook it all up.

And it will be software update, but it depends on the actual situation and needs. We will try to consider abou it.

Thanks
Best regards,"

if we all write to [email protected] maybe they improve our amplifier with a firmware update

 

[epiceric6]

And it will be software update, but it depends on the actual situation and needs. We will try to consider abou it.
if we all write to [email protected] maybe they improve our amplifier with a firmware update

Is there even a USB port on DA-9 for firmware update?

 

[jimboaz]

Hi, I recently bought a pair of Elac debut b6.2 speakers and was wondering if the smsl da9 might be a good budget amp option for them. Im going to use them as a desktop setup so most of my listening will be with a low volume but if I wanted could I get loud with this amp? The speakers are listed as 86 dB / 2,83 V and 6ohm

Greetings, I own Elac Debut 2.0 B6.2 (and 5.2) and I am running them very well and plenty loud off both an SMSL SA98E and a SMSL SA300 which I just got..Since the DA-9 appears even more powerful then the SA300 you should have zero concerns with the match. . I'm thinking of ordering an SU-9 myself even though I just got the SA300. Excellent match with the Elacs nonetheless. I am running a Topping D50 dac w/P50 power supply. Room is 10x14.

 

[raistlin65]

Down to $220 from Amazon for Prime Day with free returns if you don't like it
https://www.amazon.com/S-M-S-L-Bluetooth-NJW1194-Hi-Res-Amplifier/dp/B091C9WV9Z/

 

[jokan]

You can read my many, countless posts about the DA-9 and I stand firm that this amplifier is a steal for performance. It's severely underpriced. There is the occasional quality control issue from SMSL so make sure you purchase from a reseller/retailer that has an exchange policy. I had a QC problem myself that I fixed myself. But I'm also the type that opens everything I purchase unless an exploded view is provided or available. I break warranties! But in all seriousness, the amplifier can more than adequately drive your speakers unless you want to try and create a rock concert level of volume, and by then your speakers will be the weaker point than the speakers. You should have a very good match between the amplifier and speakers. For near-field, desktop listening it should be plenty of power. You're going to want a new, current generation DAC with balanced outputs to get the most out of the amplifier. The DAC is more important than the amplifier if you are running audio from your computer or other digital device. It'll still sound great with RCA or single ended inputs but a current generation balanced output DAC is going to really make the amp sing!

Happy listening, and I hope you make the purchase!

 

[SOUNDSONIC]

After weeks of studying the 'anatomy' of the DA9 and SU9 combo, I came up with the following conclusions:

1. The DA9 can indeed accomodate 2 ohms load. In this case it can deliver 150 watts/channel power output with such load according to the specs. Done bi-wiring a 3.8 ohms and 6 ohms speakers (2.4 ohms combined) and the result was encouraging.

2. Thr SU9 can operate with the RCA and XLR outputs functioning simultaneously. Meaning bi-amping/4chanelling is pretty feasible. In fact, done that with the XLRs connected to the DA9 while a tube preamp and a 100w/channel TPA3116 class D power amp on the RCA outputs. It works flawlessly. And the sonic is awesome. Much better sounds than the bi-wiring setup.

Thinking of ordering another DA9 to complement the tube preamp replacing the TPA3116 power amp.

Just sharing......

 

[adamjohari]

Hey everyone. Thanks for all the info so far. Loving the SMSL DA9. I made a video comparison for myself between the DA-9 vs the Fosi Audio BT20a but it involves copyright music so won't be able to share unfortunately. All I can say is that the DA-9 is significantly better.

Another question, I have a Logitech Z625 boxed up. Could I use the subwoofer from this setup and hook it up to the SMSL DA-9? If I can, how? Like what cables and what not. Thanks!

 

[HorizonsEdge]

Hey everyone. Thanks for all the info so far. Loving the SMSL DA9. I made a video comparison for myself between the DA-9 vs the Fosi Audio BT20a but it involves copyright music so won't be able to share unfortunately. All I can say is that the DA-9 is significantly better.

Another question, I have a Logitech Z625 boxed up. Could I use the subwoofer from this setup and hook it up to the SMSL DA-9? If I can, how? Like what cables and what not. Thanks!

Usually proprietary solutions are incompatible. Can you post an image of the sub back panel?

 

[adamjohari]

Usually proprietary solutions are incompatible. Can you post an image of the sub back panel?

Should be like this

 

[donald24]

Simply connect a RCA-cable to either L or R input. Or use a RCA-y-splitter adapter for both if volume is too silent.

 

[adamjohari]

Simply connect a RCA-cable to either L or R input. Or use a RCA-y-splitter adapter for both if volume is too silent.

Will this work? From the SW out (purple) to the RCA in the sub?

 

[donald24]

Will fit perfectly!

 

[ShinMolina]

Since there are some pretty good sales on Aliexpress, I am thinking about getting the SMSL DA-9 today or tomorrow. I am having some doubts between a BRZHIFI and the SMSL, had pretty good experiences with BRZHIFI. The SMSL look tiny in comparison with other option, it's not a deal-breaker, but I like the looks of big amplifiers. This is the rival:

BRZHIFI PA-10 Aliexpress Link

Given that the SMSL DA-9 has no speaker output filter, could there be any interference issues or something as specified by Infineon on their datasheets? Has anybody experience eny problems with 2-3 meter wire lengths from amp to speakers?

 

[adamjohari]

Since there are some pretty good sales on Aliexpress, I am thinking about getting the SMSL DA-9 today or tomorrow. I am having some doubts between a BRZHIFI and the SMSL, had pretty good experiences with BRZHIFI. The SMSL look tiny in comparison with other option, it's not a deal-breaker, but I like the looks of big amplifiers. This is the rival:

BRZHIFI PA-10 Aliexpress Link

Given that the SMSL DA-9 has no speaker output filter, could there be any interference issues or something as specified by Infineon on their datasheets? Has anybody experience eny problems with 2-3 meter wire lengths from amp to speakers?

There's a sale on the DA-9 right now. From Shenzhen audio I think. Just buy the DA-9, the reviews are real, it's amazing.

 

[ShinMolina]

There's a sale on the DA-9 right now. From Shenzhen audio I think. Just buy the DA-9, the reviews are real, it's amazing.

Have mine in the cart from DUDO Autio Store. Is the cheapest I found, for 176€ or around 210$. Ready to pull the trigger!

 

[fluxcapacitor]

mine arrived today.it's built is really high quality from the outer side.Nice finish, flawless assembly and smooth, heavy feeling. Sound is as great as its built. at max volume, i can barely hear white noise if i lean my ears to tweeters from 3-4cm , quite nice. Sound quality is simply superb guys, do not hesitate to buy.
p.s. surprised to see that smsl didn't fix their crappy remote. If you ever push button B or C, remote locks up and you have to remove battery and put it again to make it work. It was same with SA300...very interesting.

 

[ShinMolina]

mine arrived today.it's built is really high quality from the outer side.Nice finish, flawless assembly and smooth, heavy feeling. Sound is as great as its built. at max volume, i can barely hear white noise if i lean my ears to tweeters from 3-4cm , quite nice. Sound quality is simply superb guys, do not hesitate to buy.

That's all you needed to say. Buying one right now!

 

[fluxcapacitor]

Well, I took my narcotic prescription meds that should knock me out 2 hrs ago.
It didn't work, my brain is still fully on.

DISCLAIMER: I am solely responsible to any damage due to my modifications, and opening of my amplifier. I have willingly voided my manufacturer's warranty. If you do the same, you are solely responsible for any and all damage and I am not liable for your actions of opening, modifying and causing permature failure as a result of your actions. You have made those choices yourself and I do not endorse such practices that will void your warranty.

I've got a few pictures for you guys that haven't been posted.
To disassmble the amplifier you have to remove the lower lid which is the heatsink for this amplifier.
You'll need a 2mm precision hex screwdriver and a JIS standard philips screw driver for a total of 7 screws, 3 hold the actual amplifier board, the other 4 hold the PSU. To remove the amp board there is a large number of 2mm hex screws, 2 of which are machine screws the rest are regular screws for plastic. Never tighten the screws with brute strength. You only need it to be snug. The Amplifier board that contains the 2 amp chips must be removed after removal of the BT antenna cable which you push in, and remove all the holding screws, clearly visible. The board has to be removed diagonally at an angle and re-fitted in reverse. The crazy short BT antenna cable broke on my first attempt of removal even though I had already pushed it in. Thankfully I was able to solder that back into place, but not the third time the amp was apart.

You will see some silver tape which is made by a Japanese company known for cables, and EMI/RFI shielding. There is some applied over the PSU, and also to the driver for the LED display. The small yellow box has the silver tape over it, which is the LED power driver. Surprisingly this 0.1mm tape around the display driver made a very subtle change to my tweeters. I'm not going to say better, or louder, or quieter. Different is the applicable term here. Something that I could hear changed and that is with the display turned all the way down. Turning the display level to full brightness didn't further the ever so slight change that was noticeable. Most probably don't have tweeters that are metal domed SEAS units that tend to be on the brighter end of things, the tape seems to have changed the sound in a different and I dare say positive way. I'm certain it can be measured because it was audibly different. I prefer it so I left it alone with the silver tape applied.
I didn't detect any changes with the tape over the PSU. (larger yellow taped box), the actual switching unit has a black metal cover (upper left corner in image 1) over it and is designed by the manufacturer to be effective shielding so I left that alone and removed the tape.
I applied the silver tape on the input from the power socket covering the wires, and the wires that connect the actual amplifier portion of the board. This had a very small effect. I would consider that the amplifier is FINE as is and doesn't require any of the tape that I've applied.
There is a picture of the factory BT antenna cable which incidentally was the exact length with absolutely no slack. The previous model had a much longer internal antenna wire as in 8" long wire. I used a slightly longer than my original antenna cable as I only needed a few more cm in length.
I've referred to my amplifier as being either a monday build, or a Friday lunchtime build as the antenna cable was so short, you have to remove the nut, shove the cable in, remove a load of screws to access the amp board which had about 20% coverage total on both chips combined of thermal grease. 1 chip barely had any coverage. I've not taken pictures of that because I immediately removed and reapplied a better thermal grease. Which eliminated the noise that would happen when my tube amplifier was turned on through single-ended RCA inputs. The lack of thermal grease was the reason for the noise in my amplifier that would only show itself when I turned on the electron tubes!

I have reached the conclusion that this amp is generally free of noise, as long as you don't get a Monday, or Friday machine. A few people have checked their amplifiers after I posted my amplifiers lack of thermal grease and theirs were fine. So some definite quality/assembly flaws are there and occur. I would expect that fully at this price point.

Here are the pics that I am going to add.

so if i want to access to psu, i have to remove all screws also on the back panel? or only lower lid screws will be enough? thanks for clarification, i'll dismantle mine