- Jul 3, 2019
Now I'd hope for a miracle they make our first DX3 version LDAC compatible...
Download the DX3Pro LDAC version User's Manual and Driver from the paper manual attached to the product or the HP of Topping and unzip the file. The operation procedure is described in User's Manual in them.Hey.
Friends, tell me how to enable dx3pro v2 in DAC mode without volume control.
It's a 250 ohm HP, so it shouldn't have any issue with V2's 10 ohm output.I just realized I got the V2, from amazon.de
and I have no idea if this is a good thing or a bad thing since I have a Beyerdynamic DT1990Pro with high Ohm impedance (or whatever is called) , and I cannot find a way to send it back or replace it with the first version.
Anyhow. I got a question.
the output of the quality of the audio is controlled by windows (I got the 10)
is there a way to have a system automatically recognizing the flac/mp3/streaming quality and send the appropriate settings to the DAC?
my musicplayer is musicbee, and I do not want to change it.
This is a great USB DAC indeed. Some people blast it for it subpar 10ohm headphone output (which can be adequate for many), but as a DAC it's definitely totally solid. Glad you like yours!The DAC portion is money though. To my 56-year-old ears there's virtually no way to do better.
I give the DAC via USB a perfect 10. HA portion seems perhaps a little under powered and subjectively a little sterile. Did not try COAX. Blutooth signal strength in my model is somewhat inadequate. TOSlink solid but did not bring out best for me. My overall score: still 9/10 because I never heard a DAC this good before when using USB (and testing using external tube HA).
Just responding to my own post (which really wasn't appropriate in this thread anyway). As my post indicated, I was pretty sure that my issues were not related to the DX3Pro, but posted just to see if anyone had some ideas about what was causing my problems. So, this additional post is mainly a FYI for anyone encountering similar issues as mine. For you computer and audio Pros, my findings are probably pretty obvious and elementary, but some of this was new (or long-forgotten) to me.. . . playback has started to be interrupted with frequent clicks, sputters, hiccups, and pauses . . .
When you say turned off, you mean it still plugged into the power socket and still have the small led light? I believe that is standby mode, the unit never totally off unless unplugged.I've had my DX3 Pro, version 1 - s/n 1901, for over a year now . Other than very few random shutdowns, around 7 in total over a year, it runs perfectly fine. HOWEVER, I did notice one thing. Sometimes it gets really warm when it's turned off, while connected (USB) to my laptop, which is also plugged in and turned off. Same thing also happens sometimes when both are running with headphones plugged into the DX3 Pro.
Any ideas what might cause the DX3 getting warm? I'm using the original power supply US version with a EU adaptor (2-pole). The laptop has a 3-pole desktop power supply adaptor. Both power supplies are plugged into the same power strip.
When you say turned off, you mean it still plugged into the power socket and still have the small led light? I believe that is standby mode, the unit never totally off unless unplugged.
Even when DX3 in standby mode while my PC is on or off I noticed DX3 can still feel some warmth. The most hottest it have been is playing music for hours, and also when the PC and DX3 is turned on and Windows default sound device is DX3, it gets really hot after few hours even when I didn't play any sound to it. If Windows default sound device is not DX3 then the unit just feel warm even if it's turned on but not playing any music, I have set Foobar output to DX3 so I don't necessarily need Windows default sound device to be DX3. I didn't notice if running in HP mode is different temperature than in DAC mode.
I think the reason it get hots is because if there's signal from the USB it will be processing it and gets hotter. Then maybe if Windows default sound device is DX3, it will continuously sending signal to DX3 even when there's no sound so that's why it became hot. When your laptop is off but charging, maybe there's still electrical signal being sent through the USB. But it will be really weird if DX3 is still processing when it is in standby mode.
Somebody with better knowledge than me - please correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think you can run a US 110 VAC 60 Hz unit on european 220V 50 Hz power by just using a simple adapter -- you would actually need a step-down transformer. Don't know if the the DX3Pro has dual-country capable power inlet, but if it doesn't, Artburda, you could be slowly burning out your unit. My US DX3Pro runs very cool, even when playing. Using it with an incorrect mains supply could cause it to run very hot. Maybe I'm missing something . . .US version with a EU adaptor (2-pole).
I believe it's USB is always on mode, whenever I turn on my PC the DX3 will detect it and turn on by itself.Yes, by turned off I meant in standby mode. And the USB port is not in "always on mode", so when I turn off the laptop, even though it's always plugged in because I use it without the battery, nothing happens when I plug in an iPhone/iPod.
Unfortunately, I'm not very knowledgeable in the field of electric engineering, but maybe there is still some sort of current flowing from the laptop through the DX3 or vice versa. I am saying this, because I noticed when the DX3 is only plugged into the socket and unplugged from the laptop, you can feel a contact current when touching the DX3's surface. I guess this is the case since it only has a 2-pole adaptor. The laptop an the other hand has a 3-pole adaptor and when the DX3 is connected to the laptop by USB the contact current on the DX3's surface disappears.
Maybe the contact current/ leakage current is responsible for the warmth of the DX3's casing and a 3-pole adaptor power supply for the DX3 would solve this warmth problem...
At the adapter itself will write what current it support but most Chinese manufactured products these days will support both as they sell it to all countries. My adapter written it support 100~240.Somebody with better knowledge than me - please correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think you can run a US 110 VAC 60 Hz unit on european 220V 50 Hz power by just using a simple adapter -- you would actually need a step-down transformer. Don't know if the the DX3Pro has dual-country capable power inlet, but if it doesn't, Artburda, you could be slowly burning out your unit. My US DX3Pro runs very cool, even when playing. Using it with an incorrect mains supply could cause it to run very hot. Maybe I'm missing something . . .
Most switching power supplies are universal voltage, 110-230V compatible. So a simple adapter should definitely work.Somebody with better knowledge than me - please correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think you can run a US 110 VAC 60 Hz unit on european 220V 50 Hz power by just using a simple adapter