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Monoprice Flat Adhesive Super Slim Speaker Wires... what's your view, is it a decent cable? The idea isn't totally stupid.
- Thread starter Cofra
- Start date
snaimpally
Member
Quite a brilliant idea actually
Terminals here:
Monoprice Speaker Wire, Flat Adhesive Super Slim Connector, 4-Pack - Monoprice.com
This Flat Adhesive Super Slim Speaker Wire Connector is designed to couple our Flat Adhesive Super Slim Speaker Wire with traditional 16AWG round speaker wire, so you connect it to your speakers
www.monoprice.com
Monoprice Speaker Wire, Flat Adhesive Super Slim Micro Pre-Wired Connector, 4-Pack - Monoprice.com
This Prewired Flat Adhesive Micro Super Slim Speaker Wire Connector is designed to terminate our Flat Adhesive Micro Super Slim Speaker Wire, so you connect it to your speakers and amplifier.
www.monoprice.com
DSJR
Major Contributor
Isn't that stuff or similar construction supposed to be highly capacitive?
Audiophile review #1: "I enjoyed the spacious sense of air that these thin, lightweight cables provided, it's like the music is skating happily over a frozen lake on a cold winter day."
Audiophile review #2: "These thin cables caused my sound to become horribly compressed, there were no dynamics and everything sounded flat."
Audiophile review #2: "These thin cables caused my sound to become horribly compressed, there were no dynamics and everything sounded flat."
Audiophile #3 that measures: These cables made no measurable difference in anything, but they have their uses. If they fit your need, buy them, or don't. You won't have any difference compared to what you are currently using besides aesthetics.
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Only if you fold them in half and add a PVC insulation in between... Because they're further away from each other compared to zipcord cables, inductance may be higher. But one has to take some measurements because effective diameter of each conductor is unknown.
They look great. Thanks for the tip Cofra.If measurements have been made on them and they seem to work like normal speaker cables then I will definitely buy them, when I am in need of new cables.
More smart smart practical tips are welcome. If I see something sensible, I will recommend. It's just a matter of wading through all the bizzar snake oil that is on the market. But sometimes gold nuggets appeares
More smart smart practical tips are welcome. If I see something sensible, I will recommend. It's just a matter of wading through all the bizzar snake oil that is on the market. But sometimes gold nuggets appeares
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- Thread Starter
- #11
For your information.
I asked their support if this cable would become available from their EU site and got the following reply:
"The product is not certified for the EU market and there are currently no plans to sell it here. However, we are getting more and more enquiries for various US products and will soon sit down and make new plans for new products for the EU market.
Please check back with us in 3-6 months. Maybe we will have more products of this kind in our shop by then."
I asked their support if this cable would become available from their EU site and got the following reply:
"The product is not certified for the EU market and there are currently no plans to sell it here. However, we are getting more and more enquiries for various US products and will soon sit down and make new plans for new products for the EU market.
Please check back with us in 3-6 months. Maybe we will have more products of this kind in our shop by then."
This might be convenient, but did you notice the wire gauge is only AWG16 and 18, whereas many "audiophiles" consider AWG12 to be (arguably) a more nearly proper choice for speakers consuming 40 Watts or more?
The resistance* (not impedance) of AWG16 wire is twice that of AWG12.
AWG18 is 4 times the resistance* of AWG12.
This resistance alone, in a substantial run of more than 20 feet or so, will likely make a considerable difference in the transfer function of the cable run. Ergo, try testing with an equal distance of AWG16 or 18 and listen at various SPLs before you commit to this solution.
(It's not so much a matter of power loss due to resistance, but a change in the transfer function that might well be audible in a long run.)
*Citation: https://www.daycounter.com/Calculators/AWG.phtml
The resistance* (not impedance) of AWG16 wire is twice that of AWG12.
AWG18 is 4 times the resistance* of AWG12.
This resistance alone, in a substantial run of more than 20 feet or so, will likely make a considerable difference in the transfer function of the cable run. Ergo, try testing with an equal distance of AWG16 or 18 and listen at various SPLs before you commit to this solution.
(It's not so much a matter of power loss due to resistance, but a change in the transfer function that might well be audible in a long run.)
*Citation: https://www.daycounter.com/Calculators/AWG.phtml
Yeah, AWG16 (a nominal 1.31 mm²) is a tad on the thin side. Its resistance is actually 2.5 times that of AWG12. Wouldn't recommend using that for runs of more than 1.5-2 m if you can help it. It's probably best used for those parts that are most critical in terms of space or looks, with conventional cable where that can be used without restrictions.
what happens exactly when you exceed 2m?
ITs still ok. Because the strips are placed side-by-side, not one on top. So, capacitance is still very slow. This is simialr to what nordost did for their flatline cables back then.
My main concern is more of how the adhesive performs. I dislike adhesive for 2 reasons. One type will tend to come off after sometime. Another will be so sticky that paints come off as well..lol
Resistance, well, doesn't make much of a difference. 0.0132ohms per meter for 16AWG..... even 10m is still jst 0.132 ohms....
There is a chart in Toole's book (the newest addition) about wire length vs diameter suggestions and when you got to measurable differences that was caused by the wire. I don't have my copy of the book at work to point to more of an exact location in it.
But IIRC, 12 gauge would be overkill for most applications in the common home, especially if you are just doing 2 channel. Wire gauge only became a factor at long runs to surrounds.
But IIRC, 12 gauge would be overkill for most applications in the common home, especially if you are just doing 2 channel. Wire gauge only became a factor at long runs to surrounds.
Roger Russell recommended DC resistance less than 10% of the minimum impedance of the speaker. 16 should be fine in just about any home environment according to that standard.
Revel recommended 16-gauge only for short runs, and 12-gauge for longer runs. I've used both in residential applications (and even PA applications) and never been able to tell the difference.
The durability of this product would be a question for me--the copper is like heavy-duty foil and will tear or be damaged if stressed. But I think think of some problems it would solve, too.
Rick "who uses 12-gauge wire just because" Denney
Revel recommended 16-gauge only for short runs, and 12-gauge for longer runs. I've used both in residential applications (and even PA applications) and never been able to tell the difference.
The durability of this product would be a question for me--the copper is like heavy-duty foil and will tear or be damaged if stressed. But I think think of some problems it would solve, too.
Rick "who uses 12-gauge wire just because" Denney
Some info from said Roger Russell on that point http://roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm#resistancehigh
Rather inductive actually.
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