Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
WANTED: Happy members who like to discuss audio and other topics related to our interest. Desire to learn and share knowledge of science required. There are many reviews of audio hardware and expert members to help answer your questions.
Click here to have your audio equipment measured for free!
Anyone use the Flex HTx with Roon? I do not see anything about Roon Ready. If it works with Roon at all, does that mean over a USB cable from a PC / Mac running Roon server?
Anyone using the Flex HTx for active crossover? How is your experience running Dirac room correction with such a set-up? I assume a USB mic has to attached to the PC.
Does the miniDSP remote control work for volume control in such a set-up? I prefer to control volume later in the digital flow, not up-front in Roon.
I use a Flex HT with Roon. Works over USB. I control the volume with the MiniDSP volume control, via remote and via the rotary encoder on the unit. I am running Dirac Live with it.
Not using it as an active crossover but others here are and I see no reason why it wouldn’t be fine.
I'm thinking about purchasing one to serve as a possible replacement for the Whisper processor. I'd use this to EQ the woofers in the Whispers from 300hz down (as I'm bi-amping the speakers). Id get greater control as the newer Whispers used a Xilica processor. If I don't like it - it seems minidsp products sell quickly especial if I offer my used product discount.
Hello, I bought the HTx but I am having lots of trouble with it.
Sometimes the software does not recognize it, sometimes it asks me to unplug and plug again and sometimes the audio signal is not there.
I have been puzzling over this for a few days. Now my main idea of the guilty bit is the USB cable: Seems problems arise when I use a 5m cable. Have tried 2 passive ones and 1 active extension with the miniDSP provided cable. All not same problems with added issues with the active extension (Type A to Type A 3.0, 3m).
I am at a loss now: can anyone suggest a good, reliable cable to fit my needs?
Much appreciate your help on this.
Before you blame your cable, make sure that the USB connector on your MiniDSP or PC is not faulty. Use another cable that is known to work (you can verify it by using it to transfer data to a portable HDD, phone, etc). Connect that to your MiniDSP. Try different USB ports on your PC. If everything works fine, then you can go cable shopping.
I have had lots of problems with faulty USB cables. Only with cheap cables and mostly longer ones +3 meters. Somehow my RME interfaces have been less bothered with the problem than some older MOTU units.
Easy to check with RMEs Digicheck utility. The problem is that USB just works and you may be dropping packages/data even if there is no obvious corruption of the sound quality.
FYI, my usb cable for the HTx is a cheap 5m one, and I’ve done countless REW measurements even with a 5m umik-2 cable. I don’t think cable length within reason is your issue.
Out of habit I do make sure the HTx is connected to the pc and on before loaded the control centre, and always use the disconnect button when finished.
FYI, my usb cable for the HTx is a cheap 5m one, and I’ve done countless REW measurements even with a 5m umik-2 cable. I don’t think cable length within reason is your issue.
Out of habit I do make sure the HTx is connected to the pc and on before loaded the control centre, and always use the disconnect button when finished.
In the past did encountered similar issues as @adLuke.
These issues were always related to 5m cables and never with shorter ones.
With some 5m cables, it was fine and with other not.
Thus, the length was an issue for some UBS cables.
I ended up by getting 5m active ones (for mic and minidsp devices) and never had issues again.
Thank you everyone for your kind help.
I will try a few fixes and if I find anything noteworthy I will let you know here just for future reference.
Best
I was pleasantly surprised to find that I am getting multi-channel audio from my PS5 via HDMI. So the PS5 decodes multichannel and passes it. And it is easy to set up, since I found out by accident. (I still do not get any multi channel out of my M1 Mac Mini, which is my primary audio source.)
Do dedicated Blueray players decode multichannel? I suspect not.
I found out because I played a Blueray, and much of the audio was just missing! Then I remembered that I had de-selected center channel on Device Control Center. So I selected the center channel for both left and right speakers (-3dB gain on each). I also patched the LFE to my low frequency drivers.
Now I want to build a custom center channel to match my main speakers.
I was pleasantly surprised to find that I am getting multi-channel audio from my PS5 via HDMI. So the PS5 decodes multichannel and passes it. And it is easy to set up, since I found out by accident. (I still do not get any multi channel out of my M1 Mac Mini, which is my primary audio source.)
Do dedicated Blueray players decode multichannel? I suspect not.
I found out because I played a Blueray, and much of the audio was just missing! Then I remembered that I had de-selected center channel on Device Control Center. So I selected the center channel for both left and right speakers (-3dB gain on each). I also patched the LFE to my low frequency drivers.
Now I want to build a custom center channel to match my main speakers.
I was pleasantly surprised to find that I am getting multi-channel audio from my PS5 via HDMI. So the PS5 decodes multichannel and passes it. And it is easy to set up, since I found out by accident. (I still do not get any multi channel out of my M1 Mac Mini, which is my primary audio source.)
Do dedicated Blueray players decode multichannel? I suspect not.
I found out because I played a Blueray, and much of the audio was just missing! Then I remembered that I had de-selected center channel on Device Control Center. So I selected the center channel for both left and right speakers (-3dB gain on each). I also patched the LFE to my low frequency drivers.
Now I want to build a custom center channel to match my main speakers.
Let's say,. I want to use this minidsp ONLY to have DIRAC eq for my existing surround pre amp..
I set the pre amp channel levels to 0db output, have the surround preamp do bass management and distance..
Have mjnidsp only do DIRAC..
Since the surroind preamp will add +10db to LFE channel, will this clip the input on Minidsp?
If so, what is best solution?
Mahbe on minidsp choose the - 10 db setting for all channels to give db headroom?
or reduce channel trims on preamp by - 10 db?
I would really like NOT to reduce any levels,. amd keep pre at 0db for trims and Maybe use minidsp and DIRAC to adjust levels there.. With sub channel at 0db and rest of channels lower..
Jist trying to wrap my head around this.. without loosing too much output to amps.
After DIRAC calibration, the master volume in the minidsp is set to -15 db automatically, to give some possibilities for headroom. At least it was the case, when I used it. Of course one can set it afterwards to 0db (or whatever volume you want) again. I would just try the maximum volume until clipping.
still looking for an option that doesn't cost too much, because I'm looking for something that would do closer to 12Vrms, I have a lot of planning to do with my signal chain upgrades this year
but even behringer umc1820 has higher levels than any minidsp, just a lot of software fiddling with stuff like SAR to emulate a surround sound card to do
still looking for an option that doesn't cost too much, because I'm looking for something that would do closer to 12Vrms, I have a lot of planning to do with my signal chain upgrades this year
to get the levels I want, I need to have +6dB gain on all my monitors and subwoofers. I can hear the hiss from the Kalis in a quiet night, and I can hear some noise from one of my subs that I already returned because it used to be even worse.
do you know what happens when you accidentally clip an input on the minidsp? i don't know if there is a modern term for it, but some years ago we used to refer to the phenomenon as "earrape"
That is because my presonus can do 4Vrms max and the 2x4HD can only take in 2Vrms. sudden, heavily distorted sound somewhere in the upper midrange area. scary, painful.
not worth it. and the specs state very simply why it happens - it accepts too measly an input. 4Vrms on a balanced input for a product that (in my area) costs 1300eur I think is unforgivable.
[EDIT] My original response made an assumption the Behringer UMC1820 was a studio-level device. In reading through the manual, the maximum line-level output on the Behringer is +16 dBu (4.9 Vrms)... which is not that far off of MiniDSP's output of 4 Vrms (+14 dBu). I am leaving my original comment below (striking out the Behringer) since there is a difference between the professional nominal level +24 dBu (12.3 Vrms) vs. the pro-consumer devices that are typically used in home audio environments... including the Denon that is later referenced. And the amp at the end of the chain is likely designed assuming one or the other, though it is sometimes designed to support both.
but even behringer umc1820 has higher levels than any minidsp, just a lot of software fiddling with stuff like SAR to emulate a surround sound card to do
The Behringer UMC1820 is designed for use in a professional audio environment (+24 dBu). The MiniDSP is designed for use in a consumer-level home audio environment (+2 Vrms / +4 Vrms).
Your statement is kind of like saying my Honda CR-V can't carry a 4 ton load of bricks in the back, but that a Ford F-350 pickup truck can do that easily. So of course, don't use a Honda CR-V if you need to carry 4 tons of payload. No issue there... but no reason to cast aspersion against a MiniDSP because it wasn't designed to do what the Behringer was designed to do.
Note: if you are using professional studio monitors, then it does make sense to look at professional-level (i.e., +24 dBu) gear across your entire chain for optimal gain staging. On the flip side, I've been using +2 Vrms input devices into my home office setup and have never had any issue of "hiss" coming from my KH 120A speakers... and my ear are about 0.75 m from the tweeter, and no hiss when I place them right next to the tweeter. I can't speak for Kali's, so hiss may be a much greater issue in their design. However, I'm using an RME ADI-2 Pro FS R to drive the speakers (i.e., equivalent of the Ford F-350 instead of a Honda CR-V).
