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Marantz SR8015 Review (Home Theater AVR)

techsamurai

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The good ones were huge and weighed 100 lbs.

Not all of them. The Marantz SR8002 weighed 30 something pounds but delivered 110 watts into 7 channels and 175 into 2. No fans.

But I agree, most companies needed another 20-30 lbs for the same power and still do as we can see with the Yamaha A8A, the Sony AZ7000ES, the new Pioneer/Integra/Onkyo.

All I'm saying is that it's not a necessity to make it huge or heavy. I think it's the HDMI board that needs a lot of cooling and should have had some form of low cost liquid cooling.
 

peng

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Not all of them. The Marantz SR8002 weighed 30 something pounds but delivered 110 watts into 7 channels and 175 into 2. No fans.

But I agree, most companies needed another 20-30 lbs for the same power and still do as we can see with the Yamaha A8A, the Sony AZ7000ES, the new Pioneer/Integra/Onkyo.

All I'm saying is that it's not a necessity to make it huge or heavy. I think it's the HDMI board that needs a lot of cooling and should have had some form of low cost liquid cooling.

Yes, people assume it's the amps that produced most of the heat but in many cases it could be the HDMI board and other DSP chips, just look at those huge cooling fans in PCs.
Some older Onkyo AVRs such as the 805, 875, 876, 905/6 etc., were ovens, mainly because of their used of the HQV Reon video processors well known for excellent upscaling quality. Denon, Marantz that used the Faroudja processors likely were the ones with no fans. The 7 channel versus nowadays 11 or more channel processing can't do without fans unless they use a lot more heat sinks and large enclosures, that would increase the prices including shipping costs, and result in reduced affordability. Fans are cheap, and easy to install for them.
 

ArturoKiwi

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The good ones were huge and weighed 100 lbs.
My ADCom 7 channels 300W per channel amp weight 60Kg. It has 2 fans, but they never turn on
 

Sal1950

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Yes, people assume it's the amps that produced most of the heat but in many cases it could be the HDMI board and other DSP chips, just look at those huge cooling fans in PCs.

Very true - how did they manage to run the old AVRs without fans?
Again the big question would be how old, but there are so many variables along the way. Exaggerated numbers was a big one, no honestly in specs, etc, etc.
Today we have Class D which has changed the whole ballpark with power vs heat.
But there's no free lunch with amps & real power used.
 

techsamurai

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Yes, people assume it's the amps that produced most of the heat but in many cases it could be the HDMI board and other DSP chips, just look at those huge cooling fans in PCs.
Some older Onkyo AVRs such as the 805, 875, 876, 905/6 etc., were ovens, mainly because of their used of the HQV Reon video processors well known for excellent upscaling quality. Denon, Marantz that used the Faroudja processors likely were the ones with no fans. The 7 channel versus nowadays 11 or more channel processing can't do without fans unless they use a lot more heat sinks and large enclosures, that would increase the prices including shipping costs, and result in reduced affordability. Fans are cheap, and easy to install for them.

Good points and both AVRs would have been better without upscaling. HDMI boards should just be pass-through with minimal audio visual interference. There's actually a use case for no HDMI switching on the AVR just turning it into an audio receiver.
 

SCS

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Hello all,
Would need some advice from experts like you in this forum.

I have Revel Concerta2 series - F36 Floor standing pair, C25 Center Channel, M16 as Surround and Rear surround (total 4) and ELAC Atmos speakers (1 pair) which I place on top of front Floor standing speakers. So all in all 7.1.1 set up.

I use Yamaha RXA2080 paired with Anthem 525 (gen 1). I connect FL, FR, CC, SL, SR through Anthem 525 while the Yamaha 2080 powers Rear surround speakers and Atmos speakers. I place the ELAC Atmos speakers on top of my Front towers.

After reading a lot of stuff in many forums, I have a feeling (only a feeling) that the Yamaha is not able to make the Anthem's drive at full potential (since the rated Pre amp output of Yamaha is between 1V to 2V). The Anthem 525 (Gen 1) needs 1.5V to drive 225W into 8 ohm speakers. The Revel speakers are all 6 ohm speakers.

I am in a dilemma now whether to

1) Upgrade Yamaha RXA 2080 to Marantz SR8015 and connect the same 5 pre-outs to Anthem (drive the front 2 channels, CC and SL and SR). Rear sorround and Atmos will be connected to SR8015 directly.
2) Upgrade Yamaha RXA 2080 to Marantz AV7706 (pre pro) and buy another 5 Channel Power amp from Marantz (MM7055) since I will use MM7055 only to power the Rear surround and Atmos.

I also understand if I use the XLR connectors in Marantz AV7706, I can drive 2.4V (rated in Marantz website) into Anthem 525 and MM7055 which means that both the power amps can drive at full potential when needed. If I go for SR8015 I need to use RCA interconnects to drive Anthem 525 and the rated pre-amp output from Marantz SR8015 is only 1.2V. This means I cannot drive the Anthem 525 to its potential since its rated 1.5v with 29db gain.

With all this, what would you guys suggest, should I keep Yamaha 2080 or go for SR8015 or go for Marantz AV7706 + MM7055.

Being a beginner in audio, I have one additional basic question, what is needed as volume in SR8015 if I have to make it output 1.5V into Anthem 525.. is that even possible to make SR8015 to output 1.5V into Anthem 525 ?

Sorry for too many questions, but am trying to understand and make an informed decision. Thanks in advance.
 

peng

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Hello all,
Would need some advice from experts like you in this forum.

I have Revel Concerta2 series - F36 Floor standing pair, C25 Center Channel, M16 as Surround and Rear surround (total 4) and ELAC Atmos speakers (1 pair) which I place on top of front Floor standing speakers. So all in all 7.1.1 set up.

I use Yamaha RXA2080 paired with Anthem 525 (gen 1). I connect FL, FR, CC, SL, SR through Anthem 525 while the Yamaha 2080 powers Rear surround speakers and Atmos speakers. I place the ELAC Atmos speakers on top of my Front towers.

After reading a lot of stuff in many forums, I have a feeling (only a feeling) that the Yamaha is not able to make the Anthem's drive at full potential (since the rated Pre amp output of Yamaha is between 1V to 2V). The Anthem 525 (Gen 1) needs 1.5V to drive 225W into 8 ohm speakers. The Revel speakers are all 6 ohm speakers.

I am in a dilemma now whether to

1) Upgrade Yamaha RXA 2080 to Marantz SR8015 and connect the same 5 pre-outs to Anthem (drive the front 2 channels, CC and SL and SR). Rear sorround and Atmos will be connected to SR8015 directly.
2) Upgrade Yamaha RXA 2080 to Marantz AV7706 (pre pro) and buy another 5 Channel Power amp from Marantz (MM7055) since I will use MM7055 only to power the Rear surround and Atmos.

I also understand if I use the XLR connectors in Marantz AV7706, I can drive 2.4V (rated in Marantz website) into Anthem 525 and MM7055 which means that both the power amps can drive at full potential when needed. If I go for SR8015 I need to use RCA interconnects to drive Anthem 525 and the rated pre-amp output from Marantz SR8015 is only 1.2V. This means I cannot drive the Anthem 525 to its potential since its rated 1.5v with 29db gain.

With all this, what would you guys suggest, should I keep Yamaha 2080 or go for SR8015 or go for Marantz AV7706 + MM7055.

Being a beginner in audio, I have one additional basic question, what is needed as volume in SR8015 if I have to make it output 1.5V into Anthem 525.. is that even possible to make SR8015 to output 1.5V into Anthem 525 ?

Sorry for too many questions, but am trying to understand and make an informed decision. Thanks in advance.

You seem to have a few misconceptions, or just misunderstand, so may be consider the following:

1) Yamaha's RX-A2080 should be capable of 2 V or higher. The specified 1 V is not the "maximum". This has been mentioned many times, that those pre out specs are based on one specific condition that manufacturers rarely detailed in their published specs, so you either have seek out best test results, or purchase the service manual to see if you can figure out what the maximum output voltage is and at what distortions level.
2) Depending on your actual need, if you listen to well below THX reference level (your volume setting is a good indicator) like most people do, chance is good that you may have never reached even 150 W peak, or much lower. It is nice to have 1.5 V, or, obviously 2.0 V or higher would be better so there is room to grow.
3) You are correct that the AV7706 can output 2.4 V at around 75 dB SINAD from the XLR (note that's still way worse than any of the Denon AVRs (those with the same AKM DAC chip used in all of the Marantz models too before 2021) measured on ASR. Again, that's not the maximum, the maximum would be more like 8 V, or 4 V from the RCAs.
4) Even if you use the 7706's XLR output, you will not gain anything if you use the MM7055, except of course XLR would allow you to use much longer interconnects. Yes, you will get 2X the voltage of the RCA outputs, but the MM7005's gain will be 6 dB lower if you use the XLR inputs so the net results would be the same. Many power amps such as all of Marantz do that, so whether you use RCA or XLR outputs of a matching preamp, the output to the speakers will be the same.
5) Because of 4), you need to read the specs of the power amp of your choice carefully, and beware that that such specs could be confusing, so your best bet is contact the manufacturers/customer support. Examples of the potentially confusing specs vs reality that I know of include ATI, Outlaw, and probably Parasound's too. Or if you have the amp already, just measure it to see the difference for yourself.

Regarding your "additional" question about the SR8015, yes you can make the SR8015 to output 1.5 V by apply the required input signal level. For a beginner, an easy way to do it could be just use the AVR's generated test tone for signal, hook up a good multimeter to one channel of the pre out, say the center channel, crank the volume up gradually and watch the pre out voltage increase. As a quick and dirty test, I have done that to my Marantz AV8801 and Denon AVRs and was able to push them to output well over 4 V from the RCA outputs. When I did that stupid test, I disconnected the speakers because even with volume at -10 would be much too loud to bear. At that point, the output voltage would have been around 0.6 V or a little less.

When watching movies, if your volume is set to say, -10, the pre out voltage of your preamp would not likely exceed 0.6 V during peaks, averaging much lower, probably less than 0.1 V and obviously would vary with the movie/music's content. The pre out voltage always depend on/vary with the input signal level, and that in turn, depends on the media contents and their recording level.

There don't seem to be any reviewed bench measurements for the 2080, but there is one on the 1080 and it's pre out was measured at up to 2 V (it doesn't mean it won't go much higher, but Amir's standard tests on the RCA output typically stops at 2 V):

 

SCS

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You seem to have a few misconceptions, or just misunderstand, so may be consider the following:

1) Yamaha's RX-A2080 should be capable of 2 V or higher. The specified 1 V is not the "maximum". This has been mentioned many times, that those pre out specs are based on one specific condition that manufacturers rarely detailed in their published specs, so you either have seek out best test results, or purchase the service manual to see if you can figure out what the maximum output voltage is and at what distortions level.
2) Depending on your actual need, if you listen to well below THX reference level (your volume setting is a good indicator) like most people do, chance is good that you may have never reached even 150 W peak, or much lower. It is nice to have 1.5 V, or, obviously 2.0 V or higher would be better so there is room to grow.
3) You are correct that the AV7706 can output 2.4 V at around 75 dB SINAD from the XLR (note that's still way worse than any of the Denon AVRs (those with the same AKM DAC chip used in all of the Marantz models too before 2021) measured on ASR. Again, that's not the maximum, the maximum would be more like 8 V, or 4 V from the RCAs.
4) Even if you use the 7706's XLR output, you will not gain anything if you use the MM7055, except of course XLR would allow you to use much longer interconnects. Yes, you will get 2X the voltage of the RCA outputs, but the MM7005's gain will be 6 dB lower if you use the XLR inputs so the net results would be the same. Many power amps such as all of Marantz do that, so whether you use RCA or XLR outputs of a matching preamp, the output to the speakers will be the same.
5) Because of 4), you need to read the specs of the power amp of your choice carefully, and beware that that such specs could be confusing, so your best bet is contact the manufacturers/customer support. Examples of the potentially confusing specs vs reality that I know of include ATI, Outlaw, and probably Parasound's too. Or if you have the amp already, just measure it to see the difference for yourself.

Regarding your "additional" question about the SR8015, yes you can make the SR8015 to output 1.5 V by apply the required input signal level. For a beginner, an easy way to do it could be just use the AVR's generated test tone for signal, hook up a good multimeter to one channel of the pre out, say the center channel, crank the volume up gradually and watch the pre out voltage increase. As a quick and dirty test, I have done that to my Marantz AV8801 and Denon AVRs and was able to push them to output well over 4 V from the RCA outputs. When I did that stupid test, I disconnected the speakers because even with volume at -10 would be much too loud to bear. At that point, the output voltage would have been around 0.6 V or a little less.

When watching movies, if your volume is set to say, -10, the pre out voltage of your preamp would not likely exceed 0.6 V during peaks, averaging much lower, probably less than 0.1 V and obviously would vary with the movie/music's content. The pre out voltage always depend on/vary with the input signal level, and that in turn, depends on the media contents and their recording level.

There don't seem to be any reviewed bench measurements for the 2080, but there is one on the 1080 and it's pre out was measured at up to 2 V (it doesn't mean it won't go much higher, but Amir's standard tests on the RCA output typically stops at 2 V):

Many many thanks Peng, that clarifies all of my questions and apprehensions I had, seems I don’t need to upgrade my 2080 then. It could very well drive the Anthem since anthem can output max power of 225W at 1.5v with 29db gain. I kind of believe that at reference level it could output 1.5v. Am assuming this based on the 1080 test.

Again many thanks.
 

peng

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Many many thanks Peng, that clarifies all of my questions and apprehensions I had, seems I don’t need to upgrade my 2080 then. It could very well drive the Anthem since anthem can output max power of 225W at 1.5v with 29db gain. I kind of believe that at reference level it could output 1.5v. Am assuming this based on the 1080 test.

Again many thanks.
You are welcome. In Amir's tests, he got about 1.96 V with volume at 0. After you run YPAO, volume 0 should give you about reference level at your mmp if the level trims are set to 0. Depending on your speakers and rooms, the level trims may not be 0 but +/- a few dB, you can look it up yourself as they should be displayed onscreen.

Regardless of whether you are at reference level at, below, or above volume 0, keep in mind the Yamaha AVR's gain is about 29 dB, that means with pre out at 2 V, the power amp output will be at about 56.4 V, or almost 400 W into 8 ohms, 800 W into 4 Ohms. Unless you are using external power amps that can do more than 400 W/800 W 8/4 ohms, 2 V is all you need and that will give you lots of reserve already. Better AVR pre out performance such as the Denon AVR-X3700H/4700H made before the AKM dac chips shortage will not make a difference (in your case with a 225 W amp) in terms of drive capability, but they will give you cleaner and quieter output. Whether the cleaner output, in this case, a difference of about 10 dB would be audible is an unknown, many believe it won't, some believe it would under some conditions, and the golden ear class believe it absolutely will be audible to them.
 
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SCS

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You are welcome. In Amir's tests, he got about 1.96 V with volume at 0. After you run YPAO, volume 0 should give you about reference level at your mmp if the level trims are set to 0. Depending on your speakers and rooms, the level trims may not be 0 but +/- a few dB, you can look it up yourself as they should be displayed onscreen.

Regardless of whether you are at reference level at, below, or above volume 0, keep in mind the Yamaha AVR's gain is about 29 dB, that means with pre out at 2 V, the power amp output will be at about 56.4 V, or almost 400 W into 8 ohms, 800 W into 4 Ohms. Unless you are using external power amps that can do more than 400 W/800 W 8/4 ohms, 2 V is all you need and that will give you lots of reserve already. Better AVR pre out performance such as the Denon AVR-X3700H/4700H made before the AKM dac chips shortage will not make a difference (in your case with a 225 W amp) in terms of drive capability, but they will give you cleaner and quieter output. Whether the cleaner output, in this case, a difference of about 10 dB would be audible is an unknown, many believe it won't, some believe it would under some conditions, and the golden ear class believe it absolutely will be audible to them.
Thanks Peng.
 

Generat0ren

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I did use the MultEQ and played around with the curve, not extensively, not scientifically, but no matter what I did the voices sound the same. I even changed the curve to ALL FLAT in the central channel and the unnatural distorted voice still was there.

I even thought that my expensive B&W central speaker was damaged, but tried with other central speaker I have, and the result was the same.

I think that MAYBE there could be a solution to my 6700H problem, but why bother if with the Onkyo the problem disappeared? It could be that I have a faulty 6700H, although the other channels sound right to me, but I'm glad the Onkyo solved the problem. It's such a delight to hear my B&W in all its glory. Yesterday I watched a part of STAR WARS A NEW HOPE on Disney+ and both in THX MODE and DIRECT mode, the voices in the Death Star conference room sounded exquisitely, like I've never heard before and didn't know that with such and old movie there was so much audio information.
insoc:
I had a Rotel RSP-1098 previously but it broke down last month so I'm looking for a new AVP/AVR. So I purchased Marantz SR7015 but I had the same problem with center channel problem on my SR7015 as you did insoc, so I retured it back to the dealer - and then I saw your post. I have had no problem with my center speaker with my Rotel. I didn't try disabling Midrange Compensation as I didn't know better and had limited 14-days open purchace, but I too had tried with other options. In the end I ended up with center +10db to compensate the dialogue problem but to no prevail. That I had to google the problem and had to have the Audyssey-app (which I also purchased) is poor of D+M imo. This was a make or break situation - I would have accepted the other aspects of the SR7015 if the dialogue problem would be solved or significantly better.
 
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funkera91

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Hi guys! I was wondering due to the fact I need to change my AVR with new one, which one to choose:
1. Marantz SR8015
2.Denon X4800
3. Onkyo RZ50

If there is any difference significant, which one do you suggest e to buy?
Also will listen to music on it sometimes.
 

peng

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Hi guys! I was wondering due to the fact I need to change my AVR with new one, which one to choose:
1. Marantz SR8015
2.Denon X4800
3. Onkyo RZ50

If there is any difference significant, which one do you suggest e to buy?
Also will listen to music on it sometimes.
If they all cost about the same, then the Marantz is the best buy as long as you are sure you won't need 4 subs, no interest in Dirac Live, directional bass, and preamp mode. Otherwise, the Denon would be a better choice. In terms of sound quality, people will say what they say about their own choice, all I can say is, whatever they say, their claimed audible sound difference will disappear if they do even just a single blind test, in stereo or direct mode with no DSP functions involved.
 
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funkera91

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If they all cost about the same, then the Marantz is the best buy as long as you are sure you won't need 4 subs, no interest in Dirac Live, directional bass, and preamp mode. Otherwise, the Denon would be a better choice. In terms of sound quality, people will say what they say about their own choice, all I can say is, whatever they say, their claimed audible sound difference will disappear if they do a single blind test, even just single blind test, in stereo or direct mode with no DSP functions involved.
The price is not in big difference, for the moment the marantz SR8015 is 2 242 USD, the denon x4800H is 1471 USD, and the Onkyo RZ50 is 1710 USD, not huge price difference, but I think price is close. What about the Denon X4700H vs Denon X4800H, I dont see any differences. Thank You!
 

Sal1950

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The price is not in big difference, for the moment the marantz SR8015 is 2 242 USD, the denon x4800H is 1471 USD, and the Onkyo RZ50 is 1710 USD, not huge price difference, but I think price is close. What about the Denon X4700H vs Denon X4800H, I dont see any differences. Thank You!
All I can say is my last 3 AVR have been Marantz/Denon and their function and reliability have been stellar.
I only changed to upgrade codecs, Atmos, etc; and my last Marantz got fried by a damned lightning strike. o_O
Good gear.
 

Rottmannash

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The price is not in big difference, for the moment the marantz SR8015 is 2 242 USD, the denon x4800H is 1471 USD, and the Onkyo RZ50 is 1710 USD, not huge price difference, but I think price is close. What about the Denon X4700H vs Denon X4800H, I dont see any differences. Thank You!
RZ50 is $1199 at B & H.

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Sal1950

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RZ50 is $1199 at B & H.

A very close friend of mine on another website bought one very early this year.
It quit working about a month ago, he sent it in for repairs, they say its an HDMI board
but can't repair his because the HDMI boards are on backorder. So now they want to give
him some B stock or refurb thing but he's having to go thru a big hassle to get it for some
reason. It sounds like a stall till they have something to give him???
I'd pass on that rig for now.
 

techsamurai

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insoc:
I had a Rotel RSP-1098 previously but it broke down last month so I'm looking for a new AVP/AVR. So I purchased Marantz SR7015 but I had the same problem with center channel problem on my SR7015 as you did insoc, so I retured it back to the dealer - and then I saw your post. I have had no problem with my center speaker with my Rotel. I didn't try disabling Midrange Compensation as I didn't know better and had limited 14-days open purchace, but I too had tried with other options. In the end I ended up with center +10db to compensate the dialogue problem but to no prevail. That I had to google the problem and had to have the Audyssey-app (which I also purchased) is poor of D+M imo. This was a make or break situation - I would have accepted the other aspects of the SR7015 if the dialogue problem would be solved or significantly better.

My center channel is always 3-5db hot with any AVR. Did you disable Dynamic EQ? That is a different level of DSP altogether.
 

techsamurai

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Hi guys! I was wondering due to the fact I need to change my AVR with new one, which one to choose:
1. Marantz SR8015
2.Denon X4800
3. Onkyo RZ50

If there is any difference significant, which one do you suggest e to buy?
Also will listen to music on it sometimes.

I can share my personal experience which is different and very tainted by my previous gear.

I currently have the 4800h, I returned the RZ50, and I own several 8002s (which are similar to the 8015 but the older model).

In movies, they all sound great with the 8002 being the more polite and the more home friendly. If you want to blast it, it can go louder than any of those very easily but watching shows, it does what it needs to do meticulously without trying to steal the spotlight. The RZ50 is tough to have in a living room with other family members - maybe you can tame it with a curve but it was overdoing things. The 4800h with Dynamic EQ on is close to the RZ50. Once you turn off DEQ, it's a lot more friendly.

So if you have a home theater and a sound insulated one, any of these will do great.

If you use it in a living space with people cooking or studying, then you probably can't have it sound like an IMAX theater while playing Minecraft or Forza Horizon.

Then we come to music and music is important to me because of all the music in movies, shows, and games as well as stereo.

First, I had no idea how good the music on the 8002 was until I heard the RZ50. Night and day. The intro song to No Time To Die will crush you on the 8002 but it just plays on the RZ50. My daughter loved it on the 8002's sound but asked me to turn off the RZ50 and didn't know that the RZ50 was playing the song.

I had the same issue with the 4800h with its initial calibration.

I decided to keep the 4800h mostly because it's pretty well made and after 20 days of tinkering, I got sound that's not utterly humiliated by the 8002 - I have clips on another post of horrible quality but you can see that it's close but I have tonality issues that are similar to light bulb colors with the 8002 in the 3000k range and the 4800h in the 4500+ range. I'm powering it with the 8002 so if there's any benefit to having a toroidal amp, I'm getting that.

If I've learnt one thing, is that the curve you get from calibration is the #1 thing out of all those as soundstage and imaging are completely dependent on the curve. I'd love to make the 4800h sound 95% as good as the 8002 but there could be DAC and preamp issues as well.

That and warm sound is better than cold sound just like warm picture settings are better than cold settings on TVs.
 
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