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KEF LSX Teardown and Repair

FraPia-62

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Joined
Jul 3, 2024
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A friend of mine gave me these speakers for repair if possible, or at least to understand what was happening. According to him, the speakers would operate for a couple of minutes, then the sound would fade away progressively to 0. After a few tries and a firmware update the speakers no longer worked and there was no sound at all. He asked the KEF service center in Switzerland for a repair and they proposed either the replacement of the master MAMP board for a total cost of 506.00 CHF (562.00 USD) or the newer KEF LSX II for a discounted price of 850.00 CHF (944.00 USD) instead of 1299.00 CHF (1442.00 USD). Well, he declined both, I would have declined too given the prices.

I started by connecting the speakers to the mains (there's no power switch), and they went into standby mode normally (the master speaker LED glows orange). Then I turned them on with the remote; indeed, there is no sound, and the LED of the master speaker started blinking red/orange. In the manual, there are a lot of color codes indicating various operation modes, but, guess what? Blinking red/orange is not shown anywhere in the manual. I then tried to reset the speakers, but nothing happened.

When I was about to send the LED code to Bletchley Park in the hope that they could break it with their bombe, I found on the net a possible meaning: general failure. I then opened the master speaker, and I took the occasion to take a few photos. In the photos below, you see the inside of the master speaker, showing the main board and the SMPS.

KEF-LSX_01.jpg
KEF-LSX_02.jpg


With no documentation and no schematic diagram, I started by checking the voltages. Bingo! A +12V from U20, a LM29150-12 voltage regulator, is missing. This voltage regulator receives voltage from a pre-regulator made with a transistor (Q211) and Zener diode (Z203), which in turn should receive the voltage from the power supply of the power amplifier, but no voltage was present. Looking upstream, I found capacitor C433 cracked and the RF choke L236 completely burned out. C433, a 1206 ceramic capacitor likely X5R, is almost shorted (it measures a few Ohms).

KEF-LSX_03.jpg
KEF-LSX_04.jpg


I then replaced C433 (I used a 1210 2.2uF 100V capacitor since I had it readily available) and L238, the latter of which required some work since the PCB was burned out and the solder pad evaporated and no longer existed. Here I used a 1206 RF choke such that it was long enough to reach the via close to where the pad was. After scratching away some solder mask, I could solder the RF choke in place. After the repair, the speakers turned on normally and seemed to work. Cost of the spare parts: a few cents. I really don't find that the offer from the KEF service center was justified; come on, it's two inexpensive components, there's no need to replace the whole MAMP board!

Now the most difficult part comes: install and use the app. Here, I had the exact same experience as @amirm. In the end, I managed to get it working, but hey, KEF/GP Acoustics, not everybody has a Ph.D. in computer science! Maybe you need to do some work here.

The next difficulty is feeding some signals to the speakers. I had available either analog audio (balanced +4dBu on XLR connector), AES3 (again on XLR connector), or AES67/RAVENNA. Guess what? The KEF LSX speakers don't accept any of them. There is an optical input that would accept S/PDIF, but I had no AES3-to-optical adapter. Since the LSX has an Ethernet connection, I was hoping that it would accept AES67, but nope. Finally, I found a nonprofessional USB sound interface with RCA outputs and an RCA to 3.5mm mini-jack cable, and everything worked very well. Awesome sound, well done, KEF!

Finally, I checked the cracked capacitor under a microscope. Although it is difficult to be sure with a simple inspection, it looks like a 16-volt device. There is good agreement that the operating voltage of ceramic capacitors should be derated to about 50% of the rated voltage to achieve both good reliability and avoid voltage coefficient effects. A 64V capacitor would have been a correct choice here, but the one that I found in the speaker was definitely not 64V. Well, given how many users are complaining on the Internet about this problem with these speakers, I guess that a batch of capacitors with the wrong voltage rating have been mounted, or maybe even specified (yes, it happens!). Given how expensive these LSX speakers are, I find that KEF should have provided a goodwill repair, even if the guarantee has lapsed.

Enclosure

As you can see from the photos above, the enclosure is made mainly of plastic, with the sides covered with thin wood wrapped with cloth. A brace, not visible in the photos, mounted just behind the magnet of the loudspeaker supports the sides and the top of the enclosure. Although the plastic is rather robust and the enclosure is well made, I would have expected more wood at this price point. The plastic itself is white and is painted to the desired color. No screws can be seen from the outside; they are hidden by the back cover, which is pressure-mounted, as you can see in the photo here. This gives the speakers an elegant and clean aspect.

KEF-LSX_05.jpg


Four antennas are used. The BT antenna is the one on the low right, while the PurePath antenna (for transmission to the slave speaker) is on the top of the enclosure. Both are attached with adhesive tape. The two WLAN antennas are mounted, one on the top left of the cabinet with two self-threading screws and the other on the top right of the brace with plastic pins.

Loudspeaker

The next three photos show the loudspeaker driver. It is a coaxial driver with 4 ohm impedance for both the woofer and tweeter. The ceramic magnet is rather large, with the top plate about 3.5mm thick. The woofer has a 38mm/1.5in voice coil with an overhang of about 3mm, which should lead to an Xmax of about the same. You can see the voice coil in the photo; it is visible through the pressure relief opening. The basket is made of stamped steel sheet, painted black, and looks robust and well made.

KEF-LSX_06.jpg
KEF-LSX_07.jpg
KEF-LSX_08.jpg


The bass-reflex tube, not visible in the photos, is flared on both sides. It is rather long, with two 90° bents to make it fit the small box. The length of the tube suggests that likely a 6th-order alignment was used. The wires to the speakers and LED plate are covered with foam, likely to prevent buzzing.

Electronics

The next photos show the complete MAMP board, a zoom in on the various areas, and the back of the MAMP board with the connectors.
KEF-LSX_09.jpg
KEF-LSX_10.jpg
KEF-LSX_11.jpg
KEF-LSX_12.jpg
KEF-LSX_13.jpg


The main components mounted on the MAMP board are these:

  • Analog Devices ADAU1451WBCPZ: 32-bit DSP, clock up to 294.912MHz
  • STM STM32F030: 32-bit Microcontroller, ARM Cortex, clock up to 48MHz.
  • CIRRUS LOGIC CS4272-CZZ: 24-bit 192kHz Stereo Codec, THD+N=100dB (ADC and DAC).
  • TI/Burr Brown PCM1754: 24-bit 192kHz Stereo DAC, SNR=106dB.
  • Cirrus Logic/Wolfson WM8805GEDS: Audio transceiver, S/PDIF, I2S, 8 channels.
  • Nisshimbo (NJR/JRC) NJM2068: OpAmp, GBP=27MHz, SR=6V/us, EIN=1.4uV (RIAA, Rs=2.2kOhm) (4558 derivative).
  • Microchip CY920-C: Wi-Fi and Bluetooth (optional) Network Media Module.
  • Qualcomm/CSR CSRA64215: Bluetooth 4.2 BLE.
  • TI CC8520: PurePath 2.4GHz, 2-channels wireless digital audio streaming (proprietary).
  • Texas Instruments TPS5430: 3A, 500kHz step-down (buck) converter.
  • Texas Instruments TPS54260: 2.5A, 2.5MHz step-down (buck) converter.
The power amplifier chip is hidden under the PCB and is attached to a heat sink; thus, I don't have the part number. Likely, it is a Texas Instruments TPA32xx device.

The following photo shows the WLAN module with its two antennas and the PurePath module.

KEF-LSX_14.jpg


The top and bottom of the power supply unit are shown in the next two photos. The PSU actually includes two power supplies, a low power stand-by supply (the small yellow transformer and 7-pin IC close to the main transformer) and the main power supply.
It uses Infineon IPD60R360P7 (600V 360mOhm) MOS transistors and lots of SAMXON capacitors.

KEF-LSX_15.jpg
KEF-LSX_16.jpg


To conclude, if you ask me if I would buy these loudspeakers, well, the answer is no. These speakers are actually an audio player with an overly complicated cellphone-based user interface. What will happen to them in a few years from now? Will they still be supported? Will the app be ported to newer cellphones with newer operating systems? I would definitely prefer more normal active loudspeakers with an analog balanced XLR3 input and either AES3 or AES67 digital input and that don't require any apps to be controlled.
 
Disassembly

Disassembling these loudspeakers is quite a science. I must say that I have rarely seen something that complicated. If you know what you are doing, these notes are for you; otherwise you better have somebody knowledgeable repair your loudspeaker. Inside, there are ESD-sensitive components and high voltage... But first, you need to reach the inside.

Main Tools
  • Screwdriver Phillips PH1 (standard) and PH2 with blade length >=20cm/8in.
  • Micro RF connector extraction tool.
  • ESD protection gear (ESD wrist strap, antistatic mat).
Disassemble the enclosure

  • Remove back cover, use a small tool (e.g. a small flat SL1 screwdriver) to pull the cover away. Insert it in the ventilation slots at the top, but don't push it too deep inside.
  • Remove the 6 small rubber rings to avoid losing them. They are glued but the glue is very weak.
  • Release the 8 PH2 screws that hold the front plate. Hold the front plate with the speaker with your hand to avoid that it may drop. Screws are deep inside, you need a screwdriver with >=20cm/8in blade length.
  • Pull the front plate GENTLY to avoid ripping wires. Swing it to the left side.
  • Disconnect the front plate LED connector as soon as you can reach it to avoid ripping it or damaging the LED PCB. You may need to rip 2 glue blobs at the sides of the LED connector.
  • At this point the front plate swings out rather freely to the left. The speaker cables are soldered, don't try to pull them out.
  • Remove the adhesive strip holding loudspeaker and LED cables, save it in a bag where it doesn't get dust.
  • Take apart the 2 WiFi antennas, one is screwed (PH1), the other is mounted on elastic pins. You can release it by pushing the pins with flat nose pliers. Be gentle, DO NOT pull the RF cables, they are delicate.
  • Pull out the plastic brace, it is pressure mounted and will slide out if you pull it.
  • Remove the damping material. Look well how it is inserted, you will need to place it back in the same way when you reassemble the speaker. Make sure it will not be too close to the bass reflex tube or enter it.
  • Remove the bass reflex tube (2 PH1 screws).
  • At this point both amp and PSU boards are visible.
  • Remove WiFi module together with its antennas from the amp board (one PH1 screw), store it safely.
Remove the power supply unit
  • Disconnect the low voltage connector from the amp board.
  • Place enclosure on its left side. Be careful not to damage the loudspeaker.
  • Remove the 4 rubber feet by pulling them away with your finger (no tools needed), they are adhesive. Store them in a bag where they don't get dust, otherwise they will no longer attach.
  • Remove the 4 conical head screws holding the bottom plate, then remove it and store it in a bag, again to avoid dust.
  • Remove the 4 screws holding the PSU.
  • Pull out the PSU slowly, disconnect the mains plug and the ground connector (faston) as soon as you can reach them.
Now the PSU can be removed completely.

Remove Amp Board (MAMP)
  • Remove the glue blobs holding the micro RF connectors. Be careful if the glue is over SMD components, as you risk to break them away! In this speaker there was glue close to a SMD component of the BT transceiver but not above them, but better check before!
  • Disconnect BT (top right of amp board) and PurePath (module on top center) RF cables. You will need an extraction tool. If you don't have one, try to pull them very gently with thin tweezers. You need to pull the connectors straight, don't tilt, rotate or rock them otherwise they will break.
  • Remove the PurePath module (1 screw).
  • Remove the 4 black recessed screws. Don't remove the clear screws.
  • Remove the 6 black screws on the back of the enclosure.
Now the amp board can be removed by pulling it straight out of the enclosure.

A final note regarding the self threading screws: don't cut new threads as they would be fragile and break easily. Insert the screws into the existing threads. You can find them easily by turning the screws backwards while applying very little force until you feel the click. Now turn right; if the screw enters with no effort, then tighten it; otherwise, try again.
 
A friend of mine gave me these speakers for repair if possible, or at least to understand what was happening. According to him, the speakers would operate for a couple of minutes, then the sound would fade away progressively to 0. After a few tries and a firmware update the speakers no longer worked and there was no sound at all. He asked the KEF service center in Switzerland for a repair and they proposed either the replacement of the master MAMP board for a total cost of 506.00 CHF (562.00 USD) or the newer KEF LSX II for a discounted price of 850.00 CHF (944.00 USD) instead of 1299.00 CHF (1442.00 USD). Well, he declined both, I would have declined too given the prices.

I started by connecting the speakers to the mains (there's no power switch), and they went into standby mode normally (the master speaker LED glows orange). Then I turned them on with the remote; indeed, there is no sound, and the LED of the master speaker started blinking red/orange. In the manual, there are a lot of color codes indicating various operation modes, but, guess what? Blinking red/orange is not shown anywhere in the manual. I then tried to reset the speakers, but nothing happened.

When I was about to send the LED code to Bletchley Park in the hope that they could break it with their bombe, I found on the net a possible meaning: general failure. I then opened the master speaker, and I took the occasion to take a few photos. In the photos below, you see the inside of the master speaker, showing the main board and the SMPS.

View attachment 380607View attachment 380608

With no documentation and no schematic diagram, I started by checking the voltages. Bingo! A +12V from U20, a LM29150-12 voltage regulator, is missing. This voltage regulator receives voltage from a pre-regulator made with a transistor (Q211) and Zener diode (Z203), which in turn should receive the voltage from the power supply of the power amplifier, but no voltage was present. Looking upstream, I found capacitor C433 cracked and the RF choke L236 completely burned out. C433, a 1206 ceramic capacitor likely X5R, is almost shorted (it measures a few Ohms).

View attachment 380609View attachment 380610

I then replaced C433 (I used a 1210 2.2uF 100V capacitor since I had it readily available) and L238, the latter of which required some work since the PCB was burned out and the solder pad evaporated and no longer existed. Here I used a 1206 RF choke such that it was long enough to reach the via close to where the pad was. After scratching away some solder mask, I could solder the RF choke in place. After the repair, the speakers turned on normally and seemed to work. Cost of the spare parts: a few cents. I really don't find that the offer from the KEF service center was justified; come on, it's two inexpensive components, there's no need to replace the whole MAMP board!

Now the most difficult part comes: install and use the app. Here, I had the exact same experience as @amirm. In the end, I managed to get it working, but hey, KEF/GP Acoustics, not everybody has a Ph.D. in computer science! Maybe you need to do some work here.

The next difficulty is feeding some signals to the speakers. I had available either analog audio (balanced +4dBu on XLR connector), AES3 (again on XLR connector), or AES67/RAVENNA. Guess what? The KEF LSX speakers don't accept any of them. There is an optical input that would accept S/PDIF, but I had no AES3-to-optical adapter. Since the LSX has an Ethernet connection, I was hoping that it would accept AES67, but nope. Finally, I found a nonprofessional USB sound interface with RCA outputs and an RCA to 3.5mm mini-jack cable, and everything worked very well. Awesome sound, well done, KEF!

Finally, I checked the cracked capacitor under a microscope. Although it is difficult to be sure with a simple inspection, it looks like a 16-volt device. There is good agreement that the operating voltage of ceramic capacitors should be derated to about 50% of the rated voltage to achieve both good reliability and avoid voltage coefficient effects. A 64V capacitor would have been a correct choice here, but the one that I found in the speaker was definitely not 64V. Well, given how many users are complaining on the Internet about this problem with these speakers, I guess that a batch of capacitors with the wrong voltage rating have been mounted, or maybe even specified (yes, it happens!). Given how expensive these LSX speakers are, I find that KEF should have provided a goodwill repair, even if the guarantee has lapsed.

Enclosure

As you can see from the photos above, the enclosure is made mainly of plastic, with the sides covered with thin wood wrapped with cloth. A brace, not visible in the photos, mounted just behind the magnet of the loudspeaker supports the sides and the top of the enclosure. Although the plastic is rather robust and the enclosure is well made, I would have expected more wood at this price point. The plastic itself is white and is painted to the desired color. No screws can be seen from the outside; they are hidden by the back cover, which is pressure-mounted, as you can see in the photo here. This gives the speakers an elegant and clean aspect.

View attachment 380611

Four antennas are used. The BT antenna is the one on the low right, while the PurePath antenna (for transmission to the slave speaker) is on the top of the enclosure. Both are attached with adhesive tape. The two WLAN antennas are mounted, one on the top left of the cabinet with two self-threading screws and the other on the top right of the brace with plastic pins.

Loudspeaker

The next three photos show the loudspeaker driver. It is a coaxial driver with 4 ohm impedance for both the woofer and tweeter. The ceramic magnet is rather large, with the top plate about 3.5mm thick. The woofer has a 38mm/1.5in voice coil with an overhang of about 3mm, which should lead to an Xmax of about the same. You can see the voice coil in the photo; it is visible through the pressure relief opening. The basket is made of stamped steel sheet, painted black, and looks robust and well made.

View attachment 380613View attachment 380615View attachment 380616

The bass-reflex tube, not visible in the photos, is flared on both sides. It is rather long, with two 90° bents to make it fit the small box. The length of the tube suggests that likely a 6th-order alignment was used. The wires to the speakers and LED plate are covered with foam, likely to prevent buzzing.

Electronics

The next photos show the complete MAMP board, a zoom in on the various areas, and the back of the MAMP board with the connectors.
View attachment 380619View attachment 380620View attachment 380621View attachment 380622View attachment 380623

The main components mounted on the MAMP board are these:

  • Analog Devices ADAU1451WBCPZ: 32-bit DSP, clock up to 294.912MHz
  • STM STM32F030: 32-bit Microcontroller, ARM Cortex, clock up to 48MHz.
  • CIRRUS LOGIC CS4272-CZZ: 24-bit 192kHz Stereo Codec, THD+N=100dB (ADC and DAC).
  • TI/Burr Brown PCM1754: 24-bit 192kHz Stereo DAC, SNR=106dB.
  • Cirrus Logic/Wolfson WM8805GEDS: Audio transceiver, S/PDIF, I2S, 8 channels.
  • Nisshimbo (NJR/JRC) NJM2068: OpAmp, GBP=27MHz, SR=6V/us, EIN=1.4uV (RIAA, Rs=2.2kOhm) (4558 derivative).
  • Microchip CY920-C: Wi-Fi and Bluetooth (optional) Network Media Module.
  • Qualcomm/CSR CSRA64215: Bluetooth 4.2 BLE.
  • TI CC8520: PurePath 2.4GHz, 2-channels wireless digital audio streaming (proprietary).
  • Texas Instruments TPS5430: 3A, 500kHz step-down (buck) converter.
  • Texas Instruments TPS54260: 2.5A, 2.5MHz step-down (buck) converter.
The power amplifier chip is hidden under the PCB and is attached to a heat sink; thus, I don't have the part number. Likely, it is a Texas Instruments TPA32xx device.

The following photo shows the WLAN module with its two antennas and the PurePath module.

View attachment 380625

The top and bottom of the power supply unit are shown in the next two photos. The PSU actually includes two power supplies, a low power stand-by supply (the small yellow transformer and 7-pin IC close to the main transformer) and the main power supply.
It uses Infineon IPD60R360P7 (600V 360mOhm) MOS transistors and lots of SAMXON capacitors.

View attachment 380626View attachment 380627

To conclude, if you ask me if I would buy these loudspeakers, well, the answer is no. These speakers are actually an audio player with an overly complicated cellphone-based user interface. What will happen to them in a few years from now? Will they still be supported? Will the app be ported to newer cellphones with newer operating systems? I would definitely prefer more normal active loudspeakers with an analog balanced XLR3 input and either AES3 or AES67 digital input and that don't require any apps to be controlled.

Amazing how much mileage manufacturers are getting from flat floppy drive-style ribbon cable and molex connectors. They will outlive us. :D
 
Great post, thanks for sharing.
Question: how do you find out the voltage rating of a broken ceramic capacitor?
another question: have you measured by chance what voltage feeds the amp chip?
thanks!

PS: seeing the internals they seem great value, they sell at 800 eur/pair now, but even at the original price. Reputable known components, maybe a bit over engendered? (I.e. why a wm8805 if there is only one spdif input). Not a purifi amp, obviously, but not bad at all. You should see the insides of my 500 eur (sales price) subs. I guess the debate is more about app controlled electronics in general. There I agree.

PS2: great to see a probably tpa32xx there. It even looks like, in the picture, maybe it is just the perspective, that they use a smaller inductor in one channel (tweeter?) every cent counts! :)
 
Last edited:
I'm going to continue using passive speakers. Except for one powered subwoofer.

The post was great and had good pictures.
 
Bravo !

The pure and simple replacement of electronics has become the rule for many manufacturers who nevertheless know perfectly well what to replace in a certain number of frequent breakdowns on their devices.

This is the reason why I would never buy an amplified speaker from Kef because this Swiss misadventure has been told many times on French forums talking about these speakers with prices sometimes even higher for the complete replacement of the electronics and an infinitely long time to obtain the parts...

In another genre, a small French company specializes in the repair of power supplies and motherboards for flat screen televisions: it explains how to disassemble it, we send it the circuits, it repairs them and returns them for a low repair price. ...all taking a week maximum...

Kef - Dynaudio too - are to blame... Dynaudio does not even repair some of its old amplified models because they do not even have stock of circuits... and they are incapable of repairing by changing such or such components on the cards themselves...

In France, manufacturers of household appliances are required to specify the number of years during which they supply spare parts... Consumer organizations will have to demand that public authorities require this from hifi brands...
 
""Finally, I checked the cracked capacitor under a microscope. Although it is difficult to be sure with a simple inspection, it looks like a 16-volt device. There is good agreement that the operating voltage of ceramic capacitors should be derated to about 50% of the rated voltage to achieve both good reliability and avoid voltage coefficient effects. A 64V capacitor would have been a correct choice here, but the one that I found in the speaker was definitely not 64V. Well, given how many users are complaining on the Internet about this problem with these speakers, I guess that a batch of capacitors with the wrong voltage rating have been mounted, or maybe even specified (yes, it happens!). Given how expensive these LSX speakers are, I find that KEF should have provided a goodwill repair, even if the guarantee has lapsed.""



In Europe, the warranty is for life for any hidden defect, manufacturing defect, etc. Your experience should be kept in mind in the event of a problem by a European reader who will be able to oppose it to the Kef representative in his country or if he goes through a consumer organization which will help him in his efforts and will undoubtedly obtain a free repair or even a refund for the defective device... UFC-Que Choisir is forcing car manufacturers, banks and airlines to fold, it's not Kef or anyone else who scares them...
 
Great post, thanks for sharing.
Question: how do you find out the voltage rating of a broken ceramic capacitor?
another question: have you measured by chance what voltage feeds the amp chip?
thanks!

PS: seeing the internals they seem great value, they sell at 800 eur/pair now, but even at the original price. Reputable known components, maybe a bit over engendered? (I.e. why a wm8805 if there is only one spdif input). Not a purifi amp, obviously, but not bad at all. You should see the insides of my 500 eur (sales price) subs. I guess the debate is more about app controlled electronics in general. There I agree.

PS2: great to see a probably tpa32xx there. It even looks like, in the picture, maybe it is just the perspective, that they use a smaller inductor in one channel (tweeter?) every cent counts! :)
Hi MCH,
The breakdown voltage of a dielectric depends on its thickness. I thus compared the thickness of the layers of the broken capacitor, as seen through the cracks with a microscope, with that of similar high capacitance capacitors with known operating voltage and dielectric type. The method is not very accurate given that not all ceramics are equal and the layers are very thin, but it is sufficient to get an estimate of the rated voltage of the capacitor. A more accurate analysis would require as a minimum the preparation of a microsection of the broken capacitor and an analysis with a more powerful microscope. Well, too expensive to do.
Yes, I measured the supply voltage of the power amplifier to check that it was present, but I forgot to annotate it. As far as I remember it was around 30-35V.
The output filter of the tweeter amplifier is indeed smaller than that of the woofer amplifier.
 
Nice job troubleshooting these. You should remove these caps and test them—it you have a LCR meter—since the tops look stressed. Running your finger over them will tell if the top is as bulged as it looks in the pic. It should feel 'flat' when you wipe your finger across the top.

caps.png


They are Lelon VZH series electrolytics and could be subbed with Panasonic ZV series polymer SMD at 63 VDC at the same value.
 
Nice job troubleshooting these. You should remove these caps and test them—it you have a LCR meter—since the tops look stressed. Running your finger over them will tell if the top is as bulged as it looks in the pic. It should feel 'flat' when you wipe your finger across the top.

View attachment 380831

They are Lelon VZH series electrolytics and could be subbed with Panasonic ZV series polymer SMD at 63 VDC at the same value.
I have seen many a SMD capacitor like those removed and corrosion found underneath and the thru-holes and lands where damaged. So be careful. :D
 
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Nice job troubleshooting these. You should remove these caps and test them—it you have a LCR meter—since the tops look stressed. Running your finger over them will tell if the top is as bulged as it looks in the pic. It should feel 'flat' when you wipe your finger across the top.

View attachment 380831

They are Lelon VZH series electrolytics and could be subbed with Panasonic ZV series polymer SMD at 63 VDC at the same value.
Hi Sam,
Unfortunately, KEF didn't choose the best capacitors - Lelon on the MAMP board and Samxon on the PSU board - which is not a great choice.
The 330uF capacitors were indeed bulged, but not as much as they appear in the photos. When I made the photos, I illuminated the board at a low angle, such that the laser markings of the ICs became readable. As a side effect, the heights, including that of the bulge, appear exaggerated. The bulge was perhaps a half mm high and appeared identical on all three capacitors, too identical for an incipient failure; thus, I suspect it is just poor manufacturing quality.
Nevertheless, I don't like bulged capacitors. Since I didn't have spares readily available, I measured them (they had the correct value, although, since I didn't unmount them, it is possible that the measurement is somewhat wrong). I checked the pressure relief valve with a lens and found no cracks or leaks. I also checked the base of the capacitors and the solder pins and found no corrosion, so in the end, I did nothing. I only recommended to the owner of the loudspeaker that he use them often, also at high volume, so that we could see if they kept working or if they would fail again.
 
Hi Sam,
Unfortunately, KEF didn't choose the best capacitors - Lelon on the MAMP board and Samxon on the PSU board - which is not a great choice.
The 330uF capacitors were indeed bulged, but not as much as they appear in the photos. When I made the photos, I illuminated the board at a low angle, such that the laser markings of the ICs became readable. As a side effect, the heights, including that of the bulge, appear exaggerated. The bulge was perhaps a half mm high and appeared identical on all three capacitors, too identical for an incipient failure; thus, I suspect it is just poor manufacturing quality.
Nevertheless, I don't like bulged capacitors. Since I didn't have spares readily available, I measured them (they had the correct value, although, since I didn't unmount them, it is possible that the measurement is somewhat wrong). I checked the pressure relief valve with a lens and found no cracks or leaks. I also checked the base of the capacitors and the solder pins and found no corrosion, so in the end, I did nothing. I only recommended to the owner of the loudspeaker that he use them often, also at high volume, so that we could see if they kept working or if they would fail again.
Good work. :D Non-intrusive troubleshooting is best.
 
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Great job and amazing detail for repair. Helped me a lot in dismantle of my unit as I have exact same issue. 3 caps need attention as top is bulged, C433 cracked and L236 blown. Can you advise which RF Choke value should I pick?
1000035164.jpg
 
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