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iLoud Micro Monitor - teardown & repair

whydan

Member
Joined
Apr 17, 2021
Messages
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iLoud Micro Monitor aka IMM, a PC Speaker came from IK Multimedia.
IMM is quite interesting for me because it used DSP as crossovers to Class D chips then output.
This loudspeaker came from my friend and failure symptom is no sound on right channel.
I used my cellphone to take pics during repair so the image quality is low.

IMM used a long tube as connection pipe after subwoofer to increase the base.
Interconnect cable covered by foam cotton, rest space fulfills absorbent cotton.
XVIlHEQ.jpeg


It used 4pins connector on daughter board of R-ch speaker, and quad-core cable to tweeter and woofer.
MbkHYED.jpeg


4 ohm 4-inch woofer, you can image that IMM may lack bass cause of small woofer and cabinet.
hsvvHTF.jpeg


And the LED cable damaged by screw because of no fixed cable routing inside cabinet. Fortunately, no impact of sound quality.
ett9vVf.jpeg


Amp board connect to control board with pin header. Amp board changed PCB to V1.2 with more bead on R-ch than V1.1.
In the beginning that I think speak failure symptom may cause by Class D chip damage but give up this idea after tracing circuit.
NetQLuq.jpeg


Class D chip used TPA3130 and input buffer is JRC4560. Honestly, I don't like this OPA.
Tr1MmGF.jpeg


DC 20V input side, the main cap used 470uF 35V with unknow brand. It doesn't have room to change a bigger cap here.
n80LCE2.jpeg


Volume control used a one gang potentiometers B20K not regular 2gang. It may use MCU ADC to read the voltage on potentiometers and provide feedback to DSP as volume control. The crystal near VR add lots of soldering on it connected to GND.
o3KeQy2.jpeg


There is some non-wetting joint on pin headers, but nothing helps after re-soldering. The big solder joint on left side using RCA socket GND pin to connect amp board and control board, which shows no AGND /DGND separations.
6GfKObA.jpeg


The DSP IC used ADAU1701, looks like a bit shift and some solder bridge on IC pins. After re-solder with heat gun then works temporary couple of minutes, but back to no sound after some pop noise. So, the main root cause may be DSP damaged.
uUaAxAI.jpeg


The heat mapping shows both TPA3130 works normally in using thermal imaging camera, those two black items are series inductors on R-ch output path.
yW19EAx.jpeg


Those ICs looks OK unless DSP is a little bit higher and MCU is quiet low.
IICL9Qd.jpeg


I forgot to take picture after repair, so I use older one to explain what I did.
1. Swap DSP IC
2. Re-soldering solder joints on RLC on DSP circuit.
3. Change the main capacitor (not necessary)
RDPz1RB.jpeg


IMM is functional on both channel after swap DSP IC, but doesn't fix the no sound issue after 2~3mins.
I found some pin soldering joints are open, but the failure symptom is the same.

The no sound issue looks like clock abnormal during previously experience, but 12M x'tal is quite solid even the loading caps MLCC if not short to GND. I found some suspect solder joint crack after visual inspection and try to re-soldering all MLCC surround DSP than IMM back to alive.

My two suspicion on those issues.
1. The quality of SMT process is not good in the beginning, you may refer those SMD components during my photos.
2. Solder joint crack by sonic wave since this control board is inside the cabinet so all components are doing vibration test with sonic wave reflection.

Anyway, you may try to re-soldering if you face the same failure symptom.
 
Thanks for sharing. No issues with my iLoud's, I hope it stays that way.

4 ohm 4-inch woofer, you can image that IMM may lack bass cause of small woofer and cabinet.

They don't. Their bass performance is great, and incredible for their size. If there is an issue, it's port chuffing at high levels.

1750928251038.png


 
temp.png

Could these be water stains?
 
They don't. Their bass performance is great, and incredible for their size. If there is an issue, it's port chuffing at high levels.

View attachment 459680

I may get use to hear those bigger bookshelf speaker with more bass, and agree that incredible bass performance with this size.
I also hear port chuffing, a little bit annoying for me
 
Did you also happen to take a near-field measurement of the port? In other words, a measurement in which the microphone tip is nearly to dip into the port? A microphone tip that is as small as possible would probably be an advantage.

*edit*:
This has obviously been done here:

1750933239563.png
 
Last edited:
I think they sound better if you block the ports. Would prefer if they hadn’t been quite so ambitious with the bass extension.
 
iLoud Micro Monitor aka IMM, a PC Speaker came from IK Multimedia.
IMM is quite interesting for me because it used DSP as crossovers to Class D chips then output.
This loudspeaker came from my friend and failure symptom is no sound on right channel.
I used my cellphone to take pics during repair so the image quality is low.

IMM used a long tube as connection pipe after subwoofer to increase the base.
Interconnect cable covered by foam cotton, rest space fulfills absorbent cotton.
XVIlHEQ.jpeg


It used 4pins connector on daughter board of R-ch speaker, and quad-core cable to tweeter and woofer.
MbkHYED.jpeg


4 ohm 4-inch woofer, you can image that IMM may lack bass cause of small woofer and cabinet.
hsvvHTF.jpeg


And the LED cable damaged by screw because of no fixed cable routing inside cabinet. Fortunately, no impact of sound quality.
ett9vVf.jpeg


Amp board connect to control board with pin header. Amp board changed PCB to V1.2 with more bead on R-ch than V1.1.
In the beginning that I think speak failure symptom may cause by Class D chip damage but give up this idea after tracing circuit.
NetQLuq.jpeg


Class D chip used TPA3130 and input buffer is JRC4560. Honestly, I don't like this OPA.
Tr1MmGF.jpeg


DC 20V input side, the main cap used 470uF 35V with unknow brand. It doesn't have room to change a bigger cap here.
n80LCE2.jpeg


Volume control used a one gang potentiometers B20K not regular 2gang. It may use MCU ADC to read the voltage on potentiometers and provide feedback to DSP as volume control. The crystal near VR add lots of soldering on it connected to GND.
o3KeQy2.jpeg


There is some non-wetting joint on pin headers, but nothing helps after re-soldering. The big solder joint on left side using RCA socket GND pin to connect amp board and control board, which shows no AGND /DGND separations.
6GfKObA.jpeg


The DSP IC used ADAU1701, looks like a bit shift and some solder bridge on IC pins. After re-solder with heat gun then works temporary couple of minutes, but back to no sound after some pop noise. So, the main root cause may be DSP damaged.
uUaAxAI.jpeg


The heat mapping shows both TPA3130 works normally in using thermal imaging camera, those two black items are series inductors on R-ch output path.
yW19EAx.jpeg


Those ICs looks OK unless DSP is a little bit higher and MCU is quiet low.
IICL9Qd.jpeg


I forgot to take picture after repair, so I use older one to explain what I did.
1. Swap DSP IC
2. Re-soldering solder joints on RLC on DSP circuit.
3. Change the main capacitor (not necessary)
RDPz1RB.jpeg


IMM is functional on both channel after swap DSP IC, but doesn't fix the no sound issue after 2~3mins.
I found some pin soldering joints are open, but the failure symptom is the same.

The no sound issue looks like clock abnormal during previously experience, but 12M x'tal is quite solid even the loading caps MLCC if not short to GND. I found some suspect solder joint crack after visual inspection and try to re-soldering all MLCC surround DSP than IMM back to alive.

My two suspicion on those issues.
1. The quality of SMT process is not good in the beginning, you may refer those SMD components during my photos.
2. Solder joint crack by sonic wave since this control board is inside the cabinet so all components are doing vibration test with sonic wave reflection.

Anyway, you may try to re-soldering if you face the same failure symptom.
Not a lot of information on the iLoud Micro Minis so I appreciate the time you spent and the info you have given. Could you by any chance tell me how you took off the front bezel to access inside and take all the parts out? I have taken the woofer out and all screws that hold the bezel which holds the tweeter. And with using as much force to pry (without damaging) I cannot for the life of me take the bezel off with the bass port. Any help would be appreciated. thanks!
 
Not a lot of information on the iLoud Micro Minis so I appreciate the time you spent and the info you have given. Could you by any chance tell me how you took off the front bezel to access inside and take all the parts out? I have taken the woofer out and all screws that hold the bezel which holds the tweeter. And with using as much force to pry (without damaging) I cannot for the life of me take the bezel off with the bass port. Any help would be appreciated. thanks!
Seems you already remove all screws on backside, please check those two screws on the bottom side.
If you already remove all screws then you have to use something harder than plastic card, I tried to use retired credit card but no works.
So I use a tiny flathead screwdriver to open the gap between bezel and cabinet, it may scratch a bit on edge of bezel.

It is really tight so I have no other way to open, hope this works to you.
 
Seems you already remove all screws on backside, please check those two screws on the bottom side.
If you already remove all screws then you have to use something harder than plastic card, I tried to use retired credit card but no works.
So I use a tiny flathead screwdriver to open the gap between bezel and cabinet, it may scratch a bit on edge of bezel.

It is really tight so I have no other way to open, hope this works to you.
Thanks for getting back to me! There are 6 screws that I removed from the front. I can't find any other screws anywhere else. Is there a hidden screw somewhere that I am not thinking of? I pried with so much force to remove the front bezel to the point where I would have broken it and it still doesn't come off. Is there something I am missing? thanks again!
 

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Thanks for getting back to me! There are 6 screws that I removed from the front. I can't find any other screws anywhere else. Is there a hidden screw somewhere that I am not thinking of? I pried with so much force to remove the front bezel to the point where I would have broken it and it still doesn't come off. Is there something I am missing? thanks again!
You still not get my point on bottom two screws, let me explain.
Those 6 screws you removed as green circle on both panel and cabinet sides, and there are 8 screw holes on cabinet.
AXJxskm.jpeg

You have to remove those two on red circle from back side of cabinet.
ktbCNXN.jpeg
 
You still not get my point on bottom two screws, let me explain.
Those 6 screws you removed as green circle on both panel and cabinet sides, and there are 8 screw holes on cabinet.
AXJxskm.jpeg

You have to remove those two on red circle from back side of cabinet.
ktbCNXN.jpeg
I can't believe it. I did not see these screws!! You are awesome!! Thanks so much!! I appreciate you taking the time to help me :)
 
sorry one more question. The mainboard is not coming out and I have removed all 6 screws from it. Does the Volume knob need to come off for the mainboard to come off?
If so do you just pull the knob off? It's very tight if that is the case. The reason for me taking this all apart is that the woofer on both speakers have no sound. Only sound coming from Tweeters.
 

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sorry one more question. The mainboard is not coming out and I have removed all 6 screws from it. Does the Volume knob need to come off for the mainboard to come off?
If so do you just pull the knob off? It's very tight if that is the case. The reason for me taking this all apart is that the woofer on both speakers have no sound. Only sound coming from Tweeters.
yes, there is a screw nut on VR under knob so you have to pull off knob to remove nut.
Try to use tiny flat blade screwdriver and it may scratch a bit on conbinet, sorry I don't have a better way.

No sound on both woofer, probably the class D chip TPA3130 is damaged that you have to replace.
I can't recall which one TPA3130 is for woofer, you have to trace back from speakder driver.
NetQLuq.jpeg
 
yes, there is a screw nut on VR under knob so you have to pull off knob to remove nut.
Try to use tiny flat blade screwdriver and it may scratch a bit on conbinet, sorry I don't have a better way.

No sound on both woofer, probably the class D chip TPA3130 is damaged that you have to replace.
I can't recall which one TPA3130 is for woofer, you have to trace back from speakder driver.
NetQLuq.jpeg
ok thanks again. I will attempt carefully :)
 
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