Integrated stereo amplifier with bass-management?

[sarumbear]

@sarumbear Which amplifier did you ultimately choose? If you haven't then perhaps I can suggest the Martin Logan Forte as the cheapest option. It's still being sold on their site, and since it should be identical to the Paradigm PW AMP then it should have an adjustable crossover.

I am in the UK and when I visit the website I cannot see any prices.

 

[doug s.]

I am in the UK and when I visit the website I cannot see any prices.

i know nothing of the uk or this product, but a 2 minute websearch found me this (type in uk country and post code, and you'll find dealers):
https://www.martinlogan.com/en/dealers
(from the above, i found this):
https://martin-logan.co.uk

and this:
https://www.audioadvisor.com/prodin...2MrLr8hOuYaQyZFyaMtKOuvzaLVG6xb8aAgFqEALw_wcB

hth,

doug s.

 

[sarumbear]

i know nothing of the uk or this product, but a 2 minute websearch found me this (type in uk country and post code, and you'll find dealers):
https://www.martinlogan.com/en/dealers
(from the above, i found this):
https://martin-logan.co.uk

and this:
https://www.audioadvisor.com/prodin...2MrLr8hOuYaQyZFyaMtKOuvzaLVG6xb8aAgFqEALw_wcB

hth,

doug s.

I found all those as well but not a UK price. I phoned the nearest dealer to me and they said it’s not something they stock but they can order one for me through ML’s UK distributor, but I must pay an refundable deposit. I won’t accept that in this day and age.

 

[doug s.]

I found all those as well but not a UK price. I phoned the nearest dealer to me and they said it’s not something they stock but they can order one for me through ML’s UK distributor, but I must pay an refundable deposit. I won’t accept that in this day and age.

did the dealer quote you a price?

i wouldn't be paying a non-refundable deposit either. maybe the distributor would know if any dealers stock this.

i'd still be looking for a quality outboard x-over for stereo subwoofing duties... quite a few decent integrated amps have in/out jacks separating the internal amp & preamp, which would make that a simple solution.

doug s.

 

[sarumbear]

did the dealer quote you a price?

He said he will email me.

 

[sarumbear]

how do you decode stuff like Atmos and DTS?

I am looking for a “stereo” amplifier. It is in the 2nd line of my post.

 

[H-RYCAJ]

This is the most bare-bones stereo amp I could find with a cross-over feature. I, too, was in the same boat but settled for an AVR receiver in the end. https://www.daytonaudio.com/product/783/apa150-150w-power-amplifier

 

[sarumbear]

This is the most bare-bones stereo amp I could find with a cross-over feature. I, too, was in the same boat but settled for an AVR receiver in the end. https://www.daytonaudio.com/product/783/apa150-150w-power-amplifier

It has a low pass filter, suitable for feeding passive subwoofers. You need a high pass filter to match the LR speakers to the sub.

 

[H-RYCAJ]

It has a low pass filter, suitable for feeding passive subwoofers. You need a high pass filter to match the LR speakers to the sub.

My apologies. I can delete the comment to shorten the thread and keep things concise.

 

[doug s.]

It has a low pass filter, suitable for feeding passive subwoofers. You need a high pass filter to match the LR speakers to the sub.

i've said it before, i'll say it again. the simplest solution is to get a good outboard x-over. not expensive, either - although you can spend a lot if you want.

doug s.

 

[sarumbear]

i've said it before, i'll say it again. the simplest solution is to get a good outboard x-over. not expensive, either - although you can spend a lot if you want.

doug s.

If you cared to read my original post, on both times, you would understand that I am not looking for a solution.

 

[doug s.]

If you cared to read my original post, on both times, you would understand that I am not looking for a solution.

my comment is for whoever is looking for a solution.

doug s.

 

[Dasbeerboot]

my comment is for whoever is looking for a solution.

doug s.

Hi Doug,

I'm looking to purchase the Arendal 1961 Monitors and 1S for use at my desktop. I will build a backboard to mount the monitors using VESA 100 monitor mounts with the tweeter at ear level, with the back of each monitor sitting about 4" from the backboard. I understand it would be beneficial to use DSP to correct the frequencies that are impaired by placing them so close to the backboard/wall. That brings me to this thread.

I currently have a Topping A90/D90 stack, and would like to keep the switched functionality by using the A90 pre-amp out. Reading through this thread, the most cost effective solution would be the MartinLogan Forte at $250. It puts out 100W/C into 4 ohms and comes with a calibrated microphone and Anthem Room Correction. I don't have measurements on this amp, which is a drawback, but I doubt it will disappoint me, since it only costs $250.

Do you know of a better amp/DSP combo that would be preferable to the MartinLogan for around $500?

Thanks!

 

[My adventures in stereo]

Apologies. I looked at the miniDSP SHD.

However, it doesn’t qualify as well as it doesn’t have analogue inputs.

Look again, it has 2 analog inputs, 1 balanced and 1 RCA

 

[My adventures in stereo]

The parasound hint 6 may fit your requirements

 

[sarumbear]

Look again, it has 2 analog inputs, 1 balanced and 1 RCA

I can’t see any analogue inputs.

SHD Power

Roon Ready streaming amplifier with Dirac Live® room correction, 2 x 120Wrms power amplifier, miniDSP audio toolbox for subwoofer integration, Volumio music player, 450MHz Sharc DSP processor

www.minidsp.com

 

[My adventures in stereo]

my bad , I was talking about the SHD not the SHD power

 

[sarumbear]

my bad , I was talking about the SHD not the SHD power

Does SHD has an integrated power amplifier?

 

[doug s.]

Hi Doug,

I'm looking to purchase the Arendal 1961 Monitors and 1S for use at my desktop. I will build a backboard to mount the monitors using VESA 100 monitor mounts with the tweeter at ear level, with the back of each monitor sitting about 4" from the backboard. I understand it would be beneficial to use DSP to correct the frequencies that are impaired by placing them so close to the backboard/wall. That brings me to this thread.

I currently have a Topping A90/D90 stack, and would like to keep the switched functionality by using the A90 pre-amp out. Reading through this thread, the most cost effective solution would be the MartinLogan Forte at $250. It puts out 100W/C into 4 ohms and comes with a calibrated microphone and Anthem Room Correction. I don't have measurements on this amp, which is a drawback, but I doubt it will disappoint me, since it only costs $250.

Do you know of a better amp/DSP combo that would be preferable to the MartinLogan for around $500?

Thanks!

the forte at $250 sounds like a deal. not sure how you'd use the dsp, tho, w/this set-up. the forte says room correction on the bass only, so it won't do much for your mains, except on the bass - maybe that's all you'd need? and you'd still get better sound w/an active outboard x-over - imo, of course.

unless you can get a great deal on a new s1 sub, for its retail price, i'd recommend a pair of something else that would equal the cost of the single sub, or maybe spend a little more for a pair. 1st thing that comes to mind would be the lowest priced svs, hsu, or rythmik, if you're buying new. and believe it or not, yamaha makes a decent sub at this price range, that's servo. (can't think of the model # off hand, but it would be easy enough to source - just search "yst"; i think their 12" driver sub would do it; they also have 15" and 10" driver subs if i'm not mistaken...

and, while the 1961's may be great (i know nothing about them), there are speakers that are designed to work close to the wall. the kef ls50 wireless, for example, comes w/an amp built-in, has dsp for locating close to the wall, and the 1st series (not the latest series ii) can be had used for a bit more than the new 1961's - but you won't need to buy an amp. the kef lsx has the same basic features, and is even less expensive. and both of these would allow you to cross them over to a sub, but only in mono; if you ran two, an outboard x-over would be needed for stereo subs.

and there's other speakers made specifically for close wall placement, powered or otherwise. these come to mind as having true audiophile qualities (ebay link below); and this seller says they're comparable to his kef ls50's, and he (as have others) says "no subs needed" in a smaller room. (i have a pair of ls50's, currently in a 2nd system, and they're very nice, even in a big room, w/outboard subs):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/274736332318
( i just noticed, the same seller has these f/s on usaudiomart; you can likely cut a better deal:
https://www.usaudiomart.com/details/649661386-guru/)

good luck,

doug s.

 

[Dasbeerboot]

the forte at $250 sounds like a deal. not sure how you'd use the dsp, tho, w/this set-up. the forte says room correction on the bass only, so it won't do much for your mains, except on the bass - maybe that's all you'd need? and you'd still get better sound w/an active outboard x-over - imo, of course.

unless you can get a great deal on a new s1 sub, for its retail price, i'd recommend a pair of something else that would equal the cost of the single sub, or maybe spend a little more for a pair. 1st thing that comes to mind would be the lowest priced svs, hsu, or rythmik, if you're buying new. and believe it or not, yamaha makes a decent sub at this price range, that's servo. (can't think of the model # off hand, but it would be easy enough to source - just search "yst"; i think their 12" driver sub would do it; they also have 15" and 10" driver subs if i'm not mistaken...

and, while the 1961's may be great (i know nothing about them), there are speakers that are designed to work close to the wall. the kef ls50 wireless, for example, comes w/an amp built-in, has dsp for locating close to the wall, and the 1st series (not the latest series ii) can be had used for a bit more than the new 1961's - but you won't need to buy an amp. the kef lsx has the same basic features, and is even less expensive. and both of these would allow you to cross them over to a sub, but only in mono; if you ran two, an outboard x-over would be needed for stereo subs.

and there's other speakers made specifically for close wall placement, powered or otherwise. these come to mind as having true audiophile qualities (ebay link below); and this seller says they're comparable to his kef ls50's, and he (as have others) says "no subs needed" in a smaller room. (i have a pair of ls50's, currently in a 2nd system, and they're very nice, even in a big room, w/outboard subs):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/274736332318
( i just noticed, the same seller has these f/s on usaudiomart; you can likely cut a better deal:
https://www.usaudiomart.com/details/649661386-guru/)

good luck,

doug s.

I see the (Bass Section) part of the ARC website blurb, but Anthem Room Correction's site talks all about room correction across the bands. Curious to know what the difference is.

Pretty set on the Arendal 1961 Monitors and 1S. That sub is damn good for the price and fits the formfactor I want for under my desk. The 1961 Monitors are made to be mounted on-wall. I'm going for a fully VESA wall-mounted setup with no stands or wires visible. They are incredibly low-profile and I like the way they look better than anything else. They also measure incredibly well.

Just looking for an amp/crossover recommendation.