Nor II've never (literally never in my 60 odd years) seen an IEC cable with a problem.
Nor II've never (literally never in my 60 odd years) seen an IEC cable with a problem.
I had one that was wired backwards (neutral to hot, hot to neutral). I just labelled it as such and continued using it for many years. My 50-year-old house has some sockets wired this way as well. Nobody noticed for 50 years.I've never (literally never in my 60 odd years) seen an IEC cable with a problem.
I used to design equipment to monitor TV viewing for Arbitron Ratings. We sent the techs out to see what percentage of outlets were wired backwards. It was close to 50%I had one that was wired backwards (neutral to hot, hot to neutral). I just labelled it as such and continued using it for many years. My 50-year-old house has some sockets wired this way as well. Nobody noticed for 50 years.
Well bad stuff sometimes happens.I've never (literally never in my 60 odd years) seen an IEC cable with a problem.
I'm not even sure the electricians would have tested them after wiring. It's safe to say, if you care about it, use a voltmeter to see if the hot prong is really hot with respect to ground, and rewire as necessary.As to miswired wall receptacles, Audio Precision had a tech note about miswiring in their new building.
Oh, those little 3 LED testers won't find a Neutral / Safety Ground problem.
It will help iron out the ripples in your response!
That’s like putting chrome wheels on a Prius.Hello forum,
I recently bought a Topping P50, and I needed a well-built power cable; as a bonus, it should be decent-looking.
Those better supply the power too for that price.That’s like putting chrome wheels on a Prius.
But if you insist, checkout the Pangea cords on Audio Advisor.
What a total and utter waste of money.But if you insist, checkout the Pangea cords on Audio Advisor.
As far as I know, only copper (nominally "pure"), aluminum, and CCA (copper clad aluminum) are used in typical power cables. I've done support work on machinery at a company who make "high performance conductors" of other materials, in particular, silver.I just need a cable built from pure copper, with some shielding (?), possibly not thin as a hair.
Do you have any advice?
thanks
MH
I like this tester for outlet testing:I'm not even sure the electricians would have tested them after wiring. It's safe to say, if you care about it, use a voltmeter to see if the hot prong is really hot with respect to ground, and rewire as necessary.
Those better supply the power too for that price.
The Pangea AC-14 cords are often discounted to $20 (at least the last time I checked, which was a while back).What a total and utter waste of money.
For that money, they look much more reasonable. I think the OP chose something very similar from Newegg at a similar price. Do they have a UL rating? I would not purchase a power cord without one.The Pangea AC-14 cords are often discounted to $20 (at least the last time I checked, which was a while back).
Can you suggest a better looking IEC cord for the price? Because looks are what the OP is asking about.
Yeah, I'll pay $20 for "looks."For that money, they look much more reasonable. I think the OP chose something very similar from Newegg at a similar price. Do they have a UL rating? I would not purchase a power cord without one.
Outside of subjective appearance, the point of diminishing returns stops at around $20, depending on the gauge and length. Actually, I think it starts going negative soon after that.Yeah, I'll pay $20 for "looks."
I doubt there's a UL rating, and I definitely hear your concern on that.
It looks like AA is out of stock, but I saw a pair on ebay for even cheaper.
I'd pay up to $100 for subjective appearance, but NOT for a Topping! But that's just me.Outside of subjective appearance, the point of diminishing returns stops at around $20, depending on the gauge and length. Actually, I think it starts going negative soon after that.