We need reviewers because not everyone can know about everything available and unusually good, different, or innovative products should get some extra attention.
How to review however?
Stereo Review once had fairly useless reviews. A bit about the product, some very minimal measures and the conclusion was always of all the X we have reviewed this too is one of them.
Audio mag was a bit more useful. More detailed measures and a bit more about how it sounded with various gear.
Then we all know the subjective type review which has come to dominate.
My opinion is currently good basic measures for gear like Stereophile does is necessary and sometimes useful. However, I also think unless there is a gotcha or hiccup in those basic measures there is no point in subjective reviews. All the gear will sound the same, audibly transparent. Exceptions would be power amps due to speaker loading, speakers and headphones obviously. I actually think the bypass testing of amps with connected speakers is something reviewers should start doing. Both subjectively and with measurements having a few speaker loads to choose from as loading on the amps. Subjective amp comparisons should be blind of course or if not doable should touch base with loaded amplifier measurements using the reviewers own speakers as a load.
Speakers and headphones obviously will need a subjective component.
Otherwise reviewers should cover features, innovative aspects, user friendliness, UI and connectology. With gear that isn't power amps, or transducers this is all they should cover. Elaborate subjective review is complete garbage and a waste of time. It only leads to voodoo witch doctor products and considerations. Prime example being the incredibly large, varied and ridiculous concerns and accessory gear offered to simply connect two digital devices via USB.