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Denon AVR-X4700 AVR Review (Updated)

DrStranger

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I don’t know about you guys but I really hate it when manufacturers does not write proper details of their specs, TV, AVR, etc.

According to this article Denon has support for MPEG-H on their X4700H as well:


But when checking their PDF, nada (I’m might be blind):



Do anyone know if they support this or not on the 4700?
Never mind…

On other country Denon sites it says it’s supported. I checked the Finnish (no I don’t understand Finnish , but clicked my way in). Could it be that Americas and Canadian does not have this feature?
 

Jbrunwa

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I don’t know about you guys but I really hate it when manufacturers does not write proper details of their specs, TV, AVR, etc.

According to this article Denon has support for MPEG-H on their X4700H as well:


But when checking their PDF, nada (I’m might be blind):



Do anyone know if they support this or not on the 4700?
In the press release “(*) 220V/230V models only sold in EMEA, China, South Korea, the rest of Asia excluding Japan”
 

Sal1950

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Hey guys thinking about swapping my Denon x4700 for an Anthem avm70, currently use the Denon in full pre amp mode with a Nad M27 and a Rotel amplifier, help talk me out of it! Not sure it’s worth the $2k premium...?
I don't know much to add that hasn't already been said. I highly doubt the difference in sq is very audible except for the differences in DRC. I know next to nothing about Anthem's ARC except for some positive reviews I've read. I run the Marantz 7703 pre-pro here with Audyssey+Editor app and find it very satisfying..
Maybe find a dealer with liberal return policies so you can do a little comparison. Depending on how well you calibrate the two DRC software they could sound very different with you having a definite preference for one or the other. The resulting sound can end up being quite variable in AV gear since most all depend on some included DRC software and it's more difficult to predict than the weather. :p
Otherwise as already mentioned, you might be better served putting that money into a speaker upgrade for better overall sound.
YMMV
 

Flatlander

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Hello, everyone. I have a question about bi-amping of the front speakers on Denon AVC-X4700H. According to the user manual, I must connect the upper terminals of the speakers to the FRONT amplifiers on the AVR and the lower ones – to the assignable HEIGHT2 amplifiers. Here is the picture from the manual:

1.png


However, the user manual for Onkyo TX-RZ50 (and my older Onkyo TX-NR717) indicates that the lower speaker terminals must be connected to the FRONT amplifiers.

2.png


Is the Denon’s manual correct? The user manual for my Onkyo TX-NR717 specifically indicates: “When making the bi-amping connections, be sure to remove the jumper bars that link the speakers’ tweeter (high) and woofer (low) terminals.”

I simply don’t want to “fry” my speakers or face other consequences like that.
 

Dan1210

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Thanks for the replies guys, i may give it a try as im curious, will also keep hold of the Denon. I will report back if i notice any worthwhile differences.
 

sarumbear

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I don’t know about you guys but I really hate it when manufacturers does not write proper details of their specs, TV, AVR, etc.

According to this article Denon has support for MPEG-H on their X4700H as well:


But when checking their PDF, nada (I’m might be blind):



Do anyone know if they support this or not on the 4700?
When you buy the unit it doesn’t support it. Only after you update the firmware it supports it. The specs are for the unit as shipped.
 

sarumbear

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Hello, everyone. I have a question about bi-amping of the front speakers on Denon AVC-X4700H. According to the user manual, I must connect the upper terminals of the speakers to the FRONT amplifiers on the AVR and the lower ones – to the assignable HEIGHT2 amplifiers. Here is the picture from the manual:

View attachment 161815

However, the user manual for Onkyo TX-RZ50 (and my older Onkyo TX-NR717) indicates that the lower speaker terminals must be connected to the FRONT amplifiers.

View attachment 161816

Is the Denon’s manual correct? The user manual for my Onkyo TX-NR717 specifically indicates: “When making the bi-amping connections, be sure to remove the jumper bars that link the speakers’ tweeter (high) and woofer (low) terminals.”

I simply don’t want to “fry” my speakers or face other consequences like that.
Denon manual is correct. That’s how I use. Test at low levels to be sure.
 

Dan1210

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In regards to ‘effects steering’ do all these products except for something like the Trinnov use the same generic chipset from a manufacturer like Texas Instruments?
 
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Dj7675

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Hey guys thinking about swapping my Denon x4700 for an Anthem avm70, currently use the Denon in full pre amp mode with a Nad M27 and a Rotel amplifier, help talk me out of it! Not sure it’s worth the $2k premium...?
Worth it will be a different answer depending on what you are wanting to do/expecting from it. If your room can accommodate more speakers it can work well. Also, if you find features and/or EQ you prefer with the Anthem then that might be another reason to change. Or if you need XLR connections.
 

Dan1210

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Worth it will be a different answer depending on what you are wanting to do/expecting from it. If your room can accommodate more speakers it can work well. Also, if you find features and/or EQ you prefer with the Anthem then that might be another reason to change. Or if you need XLR connections.
Just curious more than anything, i demoed an mrx 310 years ago and was quite impressed, since then it’s always been Denon or Marantz. Don’t get me wrong the 4700 is great!
My speakers are a full klipsch ultra 2 set with diy marty subs and my room is fairly well treated be interesting to see if Arc does anything different to improve the sound.
 

peng

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Just curious more than anything, i demoed an mrx 310 years ago and was quite impressed, since then it’s always been Denon or Marantz. Don’t get me wrong the 4700 is great!
My speakers are a full klipsch ultra 2 set with diy marty subs and my room is fairly well treated be interesting to see if Arc does anything different to improve the sound.

It would be more interesting if you can compare them in direct mode/without dsp, and in a tightly controlled DBT. I assume that would not likely be possible to do at home. That's why I didn't think there is much chance anyone could talk you out of this.
 

pjn

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I didn't see anyone with issues with the web based control - while the iOS mac app (and presumably the Android app) are far better than the earlier incarnation, I have used the web based control interface for when I am using a computer. Previously (on a Marantz 6006) this worked flawlessly although with an ugly interface. Now, with a Denon AVR4700 all it lets me do are use setup configurations. I can turn zones on and off, but that is all. No volume control. No input selection except in Main. Very odd. Chrome, Safari and Firefox, so not a browser issue.
Luckily, there is a nice little app "Control for Denon" which for $3.99 lets me control volume and source and zone off/on.
It seems a bit unnecessary, but it will certainly do until I can find a solution. Attached is the "top"menu - I'd be grateful for feedback as to what I am doing wrong! Otherwise - very pleased with how easy the setup process was and how nicely the Audyssey app (thanks Amir!) controlled for the bizarre BBC dip.
Another slight oddity is the DERemote app which works well on iOS except that I had to use the Marantz settings to get it to work properly. Autodiscover was quite weird.
1636320024299.png
 

ririt

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I didn't see anyone with issues with the web based control - while the iOS mac app (and presumably the Android app) are far better than the earlier incarnation, I have used the web based control interface for when I am using a computer. Previously (on a Marantz 6006) this worked flawlessly although with an ugly interface. Now, with a Denon AVR4700 all it lets me do are use setup configurations. I can turn zones on and off, but that is all. No volume control. No input selection except in Main. Very odd. Chrome, Safari and Firefox, so not a browser issue.
Luckily, there is a nice little app "Control for Denon" which for $3.99 lets me control volume and source and zone off/on.
It seems a bit unnecessary, but it will certainly do until I can find a solution. Attached is the "top"menu - I'd be grateful for feedback as to what I am doing wrong! Otherwise - very pleased with how easy the setup process was and how nicely the Audyssey app (thanks Amir!) controlled for the bizarre BBC dip.
Another slight oddity is the DERemote app which works well on iOS except that I had to use the Marantz settings to get it to work properly. Autodiscover was quite weird.
View attachment 163934
I am using the Ipad/iphone app called « AVR remote » to control my 4700h. Despite being time to time slow, it works pretty well and you have access to all control features
 

Oski1997

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Value and amplifier performance

Assuming cost is a factor is your decision, the X4700H is a lot less expensive. If cost isn't a factor then get the X8500HA when it ships, which should be soon.

The cost savings from purchasing an X4700H would go a good part of the way toward purchase of a multi-channel external power amplifier such as Monoprice Monolith three or five channel unit.

The power amplifier channels in the X4700H offer lower THD+N than the X6700H power amplifier channels. The power output is essentially the same.

Temperatures and Heat

The heat generated by the D/M units from the power amplifier sections is proportional to the number of power amplifier channels. The bias voltage and emitter resistors have the same values, and rail voltages in all of the units in question are essentially the same.

With the heat flow essentially constant from each amplifier channel, the differences in case temperatures of the Denon units above the power amplifier channels is determined by the design of the heat sink/power transistor system.

Are temperature measurements available for the X4700H? A claim that something "feels" hot is not a measurement.
Since you are claiming that the X4700H runs hotter then please provide actual case temperature measurements above the heat sinks.

Looking at Denon designs and actual, available temperature measurements, the X3700H shows much lower temperatures in Amir's measurements than the X6700H. The X4700H has a similar heat sink/output transistor arrangement to the X3700H

The lower temperatures for the X3700H are due to a better layout of the power transistors on the heat sink vs. the layout in the X6700H. The layout in the X6700H only uses 1/2 the heat sink effectively.

The thermographs in the ASR reviews clearly demonstrate the differences the effectiveness of the heat sink layouts. In the X6700H only 1/2 of the heat sinks fins show up hot, and they show high temperatures. This means 1/2 of the heat sink fins are poor utilized. All of the fins of the X3700h show about the same temperature and thus are cooler.

Stepping back: how important are higher temperatures above the heat sinks? The heat sinks and power transistors are the components exposed to the higher temperatures. The temperatures measured to-date offer no threat to the heat sinks or the power transistors. With proper ventilation the heat from the heat sinks exits the unit from the case above the heat sinks. The heat sinks are silver and shinny and thus should have low emissivity. Low emissivity means that the heat sinks will not heat surrounding components via IR.

Heat from an AVR is a different question. In a poor ventilated area the temperature around an AVR will naturally rise. The heat from Denon units is mainly from two areas. One area is the digital board resulting from the dissipation of perhaps 40W to 50W. The digital boards are essentially the same in all the upper level D/M units. The second main heat source is the power amplifier output stages for each channel. More output channels produce more heat.

An X8500H will produce more heat and require the most ventilation of the units considered here. Next down in descending order of heat generated is the X6700H, X4700H and X3700H. None of these units will prosper in a confined space with poor ventilation.
I bought my first receiver (ever) this week (x3700h). I've been learning a lot (to say the least). Can you elaborate on "None of these units will prosper in a confined space with poor ventilation". I put mine inside of an entertainment center in my livingroom. The back is closed but I leave the front glass door open all day. Are receivers supposed to be inside something other than an enclosed TV stand? Do I need to buy something better than two120mm USB fans? I don't want to buy another receiver for at least 8 years or when the new HDMI 2.2 standard comes out. Thanks in advance for your help.
 

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Doodski

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I bought my first receiver (ever) this week (x3700h). I've been learning a lot (to say the least). Can you elaborate on "None of these units will prosper in a confined space with poor ventilation". I put mine inside of an entertainment center in my livingroom. The back is closed but I leave the front glass door open all day. Are receivers supposed to be inside something other than a TV stand? Do I need to buy something better than 120mm USB fans? I don't want to buy another receiver for at least 8 years or when the new HDMI 2.2 standard comes out. Thanks in advance for your help.
140mm or even better 200mm would be better. Lower frequency noise emission so it is less noticeable. You are going to need to move some air. 2-120mm will probably not be sufficient even if high RPM fans.
 

RichB

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I bought my first receiver (ever) this week (x3700h). I've been learning a lot (to say the least). Can you elaborate on "None of these units will prosper in a confined space with poor ventilation". I put mine inside of an entertainment center in my livingroom. The back is closed but I leave the front glass door open all day. Are receivers supposed to be inside something other than an enclosed TV stand? Do I need to buy something better than two120mm USB fans? I don't want to buy another receiver for at least 8 years or when the new HDMI 2.2 standard comes out. Thanks in advance for your help.
in my experience, it depends on the space above and ambient temperature.
in a vacation home, I use two 80mm fans because it has no AC and that works fine.

Run it for a while and feel the top or measure it with an IR thermometer.
Large fans are always better for noise and even at low RPM they help a lot.

- Rich
 
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Oski1997

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140mm or even better 200mm would be better. Lower frequency noise emission so it is less noticeable. You are going to need to move some air. 2-120mm will probably not be sufficient even if high RPM fans.
Do you have a specific model you can recommend? I bought the 2 120mm fans on Amazon yesterday but I can still cancel my order. Thanks!
 
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