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Crown Xti4002 Pro Stereo Amplifier Review

Rate this amplifier:

  • 1. Poor (headless panther)

    Votes: 37 21.3%
  • 2. Not terrible (postman panther)

    Votes: 67 38.5%
  • 3. Fine (happy panther)

    Votes: 52 29.9%
  • 4. Great (golfing panther)

    Votes: 18 10.3%

  • Total voters
    174
Since this forum is largely concerned with domestic audio I think it may be interesting to post measurements of a more modestly powered (2x350 watt) Yamaha P3500s: https://www.homecinema-fr.com/forum...mpli-yamaha-p3500s-mise-a-jour-t30056383.html In practice, the fan of this amplifier never came on during the tests. Encouraged by these results I bought a 300 euro 2x250 watt Yamaha P2500s for my son, and here too, in home use the fan never kicks in. Do I need to say that it sounds great (i.e. like any other decent amp)?
I have the P7000s pulling a pair of Infinity Kappa 8.2i's. No noise or nothing. Just an amplified signal.
 
I plan to use XTi 4002 to power 2x 18" subs at 4 ohm each (1 per channel). Would it be a good match (for HT)?

Those subs can go to single digits so I guess in this regard it is not but at the same time I should be pretty ok with 4002 being able to do something like 7hz at -1.5db.

What I don't understand is how much power it can deliver at 20hz or lower hz at 4ohm load.

Do I read the review correctly that at 1% THD it can deliver 900W into 4 ohm but at 20hz it drops to 647W and how steeply it drops going lower than 20hz?

Let me know guys what to make out of it.

How bridging it would affect those numbers?

I am also considering XLi3500 / 2500 either bridged or dual channel.
 
Hopefully someone will offer them for testing. I considered buying one myself for testing but even dealer cost is way up there.
FWIW I have via PM. A long list of Pro amps. The older iTech8k is one of them.

We need to clone Amir so we can get more throughput ;)

Note: Amir has not been slacking, the sheer number of reviews going up every week is proof. Too much to test, so little time...
 
I plan to use XTi 4002 to power 2x 18" subs at 4 ohm each (1 per channel). Would it be a good match (for HT)?

Those subs can go to single digits so I guess in this regard it is not but at the same time I should be pretty ok with 4002 being able to do something like 7hz at -1.5db.

What I don't understand is how much power it can deliver at 20hz or lower hz at 4ohm load.

Do I read the review correctly that at 1% THD it can deliver 900W into 4 ohm but at 20hz it drops to 647W and how steeply it drops going lower than 20hz?

Let me know guys what to make out of it.

How bridging it would affect those numbers?

I am also considering XLi3500 / 2500 either bridged or dual channel.
All will work. Imagine strapping one of these on back of self powered sub.
 
Hi

Hoping for some input on an issue. I know a guy with this amplifier that won't output sound. It turns on and the signal leds react to input signal. Could this be the ribbon cable to the main board from the control panel as some of the other Crowns suffer from? He says he hears relay click..
 
Hi

Hoping for some input on an issue. I know a guy with this amplifier that won't output sound. It turns on and the signal leds react to input signal. Could this be the ribbon cable to the main board from the control panel as some of the other Crowns suffer from? He says he hears relay click..
Troubleshooting over the internet is actually very difficult. We have a few guys on here who have many years repairing audio gear and if they don't respond it means they didn't see your post or it would need to be looked at in person. Try seeing if Crown has any authorized repair centers near you, if not then just go to any audio repair place, they are not that hard to fix. As usual though cost of repair is an issue vs buying a replacement. They were having a 5 year warranty but I don't know its still on. 5 years is very good!
 
Hello. Honestly, I'm completely dumbstruck by this whole thing. Opinions differ greatly. I want to connect two subwoofers (JBL Stage 1210 4Ω) to a Denon AVR x3500h receiver. Denon would handle crossover, LPF, DSP. So I need a subwoofer amplifier and I was thinking of an XTi 1002 which is only needed for the two subwoofers. The hi-fi system is outdoors, in the yard of my house. I don't listen too loud (about 50% volume) for the sake of the neighbors. I only listen to rock music. Anyone who is a music fan knows that dynamic and accurate bass is very important for rock music. Currently, the JBLs are powered by a home-made 2x100W amplifier (this amplifier does not contain DSP or crossover), but this is not enough power because it always goes at maximum. My question is, is an XTi 1002 suitable for driving subs?
 
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Hello. Honestly, I'm completely dumbstruck by this whole thing. Opinions differ greatly. I want to connect two subwoofers (JBL Stage 1210 4Ω) to a Denon AVR x3500h receiver. Denon would handle crossover, LPF, DSP. So I need a subwoofer amplifier and I was thinking of an XTi 1002 which is only needed for the two subwoofers. The hi-fi system is outdoors, in the yard of my house. I don't listen too loud (about 50% volume) for the sake of the neighbors. I only listen to rock music. Anyone who is a music fan knows that dynamic and accurate bass is very important for rock music. Currently, the JBLs are powered by a home-made 2x100W amplifier (this amplifier does not contain DSP or crossover), but this is not enough power because it always goes at maximum. My question is, is an XTi 1002 suitable for driving subs?
Being outside I think you would need a large commercial bass bin powered by at least 2000 watts. doing audio outside is much different than inside. Good Luck!
 
Being outside I think you would need a large commercial bass bin powered by at least 2000 watts. doing audio outside is much different than inside. Good Luck!
2000W? JBL Stage 1210 can 250Wrms. I am currently driving it at max 2x100W and it can be listened to. Ok, that's right, I had to boost the AVR rca sub output by +6dB to get the JBL in line with the other speakers on the AVR. That's the problem. I don't want to increase the AVR sub output signal, so I'm looking for a power amplifier for the subs. According to the data sheet, I think the XTi 1002 is OK in terms of performance, and the price category is also appropriate. But I'm not a professional. I don't want to spend unnecessary money, so I'm asking for opinions.

One more thing, the Denon AVR's sub output is RCA, the XTi 1002's input jack is XLR. I read that for good sound you need an RCA - XLR converter box. What do you think about this?
 
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You could look at the XLS 2002 as it comes with rca jacks all ready to go. You want an easy to use easy to get going rig. No matter what you buy from Crown it will put out gobs of power. If you are not looking at any computer control (which I think you are not) then I think your only option is the XLS series. It is a very heavy duty line of amps they have made for years. I had one and loved it. Many others on this site have them too especially for sub duty.
 
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You could look at the XLS 2002 as it comes with rca jacks all ready to go. You want an easy to use easy to get going rig. No matter what you buy from Crown it will put out gobs of power. If you are not looking at any computer control (which I think you are not) then I think your only option is the XLS series. It is a very heavy duty line of amps they have made for years. I had on and loved it. Many others on this site have them too especially for sub duty.
I chose the XTi2 series because the fan on the XTi2 can be set to be temperature-dependent.
 
I chose the XTi2 series because the fan on the XTi2 can be set to be temperature-dependent.
I think you said that you were going to use it outside. If so, fan noise does not matter. If in the house and you push the sub a lot then the fan will come on. But again at that point you may have to 1. Repair the sub or 2. Repair the drywall cracks!!!!;) LOL
 
I think you said that you were going to use it outside. If so, fan noise does not matter. If in the house and you push the sub a lot then the fan will come on. But again at that point you may have to 1. Repair the sub or 2. Repair the drywall cracks!!!!;) LOL
That was rough, I don't have drywall. Yes, I use it outside, but not outdoors, but between 3 walls. The amplifier is inside.
 
That was rough, I don't have drywall. Yes, I use it outside, but not outdoors, but between 3 walls. The amplifier is inside.
I think you have all the info you need, now it is just decision time. Good Luck with whatever you do.
 
I use a pair of XLS2500.... given in my use case they almost never go beyond 4W, the fan never cranks up to become audible.

The fans in the XLS series are definitely thermostatically controlled... and under most common use cases "domestically" only get to their minimum speed...
 
I use a pair of XLS2500.... given in my use case they almost never go beyond 4W, the fan never cranks up to become audible.

The fans in the XLS series are definitely thermostatically controlled... and under most common use cases "domestically" only get to their minimum speed...
I understand. So if your amp is unloaded the fan won't run?
 
I understand. So if your amp is unloaded the fan won't run?
Not sure if the fan actually turns off, or just idles at a very low speed where it becomes inaudible.... I think it just drops down to minimum speed, and then ramps up if/when needed (but I am not sure - hard to see in my rack behind cables etc...)
 
Not sure if the fan actually turns off, or just idles at a very low speed where it becomes inaudible.... I think it just drops down to minimum speed, and then ramps up if/when needed (but I am not sure - hard to see in my rack behind cables etc...)
All right. Thanks.
 
I work full-time in live sound, Class D/switching amps are industry standard, period these days.

32,800W (4ch) out of 2U enclosure - https://www.powersoft.com/en/products/touring-amps/x-series/x4l#specifications

20,800W (16ch) out of 2U - https://www.l-acoustics.com/products/la7-16/ (note: L'Acoustics notoriously under-rates their products in almost every aspect)

This is a good read: https://forums.melaudia.net/attachment.php?aid=30627
Note Page 22's graph on power vs. time.

I will say subjectively (and every professional I've ever met will agree), no amplifier on subwoofers works as well as a big, old, heavy, inefficient A/B amp with a huge transformer and enough capacitors to instantly kill 15 people (assuming the same total watts vs a Class D solution). Unfortunately, they are impractical to tour with and require far larger generator rentals ($$$), so there is no market for them apart from individuals who run their own system (mostly dub/bass/genre sound systems which need to play 35hz full-scale for 3 minutes straight with zero output sag).

I don't agree, or at least I don't now that there is an amp like the x4l, or Ipal systems, that I have been able to use several times. But already at the time of the K10 the control over the subwoofers of a class D was clearly superior Compared to everything else.
And the beautiful comparison you posted proves it: noise, thd, intermodulation was superb!!
Clearly lightness and efficiency had to be paid for somehow and that With the Delivery of all that power over time... And it is correctly the best thing to sacrifice because in music it is really difficult to find pure sinusoids that go on for tens of seconds!
Personally I've never had any problems with this especially looking at the other side of the scale.
Now the new Powersoft suffer from this gap even less thanks both to the incredible technology behind the new power supplies and amplifier modules and to the incredible powers which they deliver.
Comparing an X4L to a Crest, even with all the love I have for those incredible machines, is a paradox... Not to mention the Ipal and M-force systems which have raised the bar even further.
When you hear a 2x18 ipal you can bother anything... There's none for anyone.
 
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