Then just build your own NC400 or Purifi. Also nothing third party.The reasons are several. Perhaps the most important is that a McIntosh is a McIntosh inside and outside.
Own technology without modules from third-party companies.
Then just build your own NC400 or Purifi. Also nothing third party.The reasons are several. Perhaps the most important is that a McIntosh is a McIntosh inside and outside.
Own technology without modules from third-party companies.
$389 + $185 shipping to the USA seems a little stiff, but I don't know what a good power amp case (with meters no less) costs these days.
$389 + $185 shipping to the USA seems a little stiff, but I don't know what a good power amp case (with meters no less) costs these days.
To me this is a perfectly valid reason. It is amazing the justifications that people will go through in a purchase rather than just be honest that they like the way something looks and will spend extra for the aesthetics. I love power meters on an amp and would spend extra for them.
That's for two (pair) and they are 11Kg each according to the blurb. I know I couldn't have them made as one offs for anything like that here in Australia, they'd want as much as a small car in $
I built a nice integrated amp into a cheap Sound Design chassis many years ago. It was fun to take it into high-end stores and compare to their stuff. Sound Design was one of those classic all-in-one plastic marvels that did things like paste a sticker with "1000 W peak dynamic music power" on the back. Achieved with a 2N3904/2N3906 output stage, quite impressive.
No no, you going about this the wrong way. You should get a Bose 123 or similar and put Hypex NCore into that. Now that will trigger people. Especially when you pull out the RCA connectors to connect the amplifier to the speakers.So Don, you had the original "sleeper" amplifier?
It'd be fun for the kids now, they could put a massive class D in an old ghetto blaster and take it into a HiFi store...
So Don, you had the original "sleeper" amplifier?
It'd be fun for the kids now, they could put a massive class D in an old ghetto blaster and take it into a HiFi store...
Ok, this may seem like an odd comparison. For those that know more about amps, I would appreciate some comments. There could not be 2 more different amps probably, but I think it would be interesting.
I currently have a McIntosh MC252 which I like quite a bit. Besides the weight, there isn’t anything I don’t like about it. These can generally be picked up around $3k. The MC462 was bench tested at Stereophile. This is really the only reason I picked this particular amp. I am sure it outperforms the one I own by a pretty wide margin. If anyone knows of any other McIntosh amps that have been bench tested that would also be interesting.
Here is the bench test for the MC452
https://www.stereophile.com/content/mcintosh-laboratory-mc462-power-amplifier-measurements
Here is the bench test of the NC502 via the @March Audio P502 that @amirm did. The MC452 will have quite a bit more power (which I really wouldn’t need).
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...dio-p502-stereo-amplifier-measurements.10909/
I am considering an NC502 based amp, but don’t want to give up sound quality. It doesn’t appear to me that I would be giving up anything replacing the McIntosh MC252 with something like a NC502 based amp. Looking at the two bench tests above, how do they compare (Knowing that my MC252 will not measure nearly as good as the MC462.
My current system is
Minidsp SHD
McIntosh MC252
JBL 250 TI (4 way)
Sub JBL B460, powered by Crown XLS1502
Edit: If I could find a bench test of of an MC252 it would be better or even an MC302, but haven’t been able to find a more comparable model bench tested.
To me this is a perfectly valid reason. It is amazing the justifications that people will go through in a purchase rather than just be honest that they like the way something looks and will spend extra for the aesthetics. I love power meters on an amp and would spend extra for them.
I don't think so. My thought was to get equal or better performance with a Hypex and save some money and reallocate it to another use (multichannel amp for the home theater).Do you think you can hear the difference between the McIntosh and the NC502 if...
a) Using music
b) They're level matched
c) Working within their rated parameters and not-clipping
....and what is a 1 kHz tone if its not a continuous signal?What is the real world continuous power rating of the NC502? I think the 500 Watt rms mentioned on the specs is just for 1Khz sine wave with 4ohm load. Most amp manufacturers (the credible ones) publish continuous power, hence lower figure.
No, it's not. It starts clipping at 500W (or ≈300W/8Ω), whatever the frequency:I think the 500 Watt rms mentioned on the specs is just for 1Khz sine wave with 4ohm load.
Certainly not most manufacturers. @March Audio will be glad to tell he measured NC502MP at its maximum level during several minutes (never happens IRL)... That should be considered as continuous power.Most amp manufacturers (the credible ones) publish continuous power, hence lower figure.
....and what is a 1 kHz tone if its not a continuous signal?
Most manufacturers (Parasound for example) mention something like:
Power Output - Both channels driven (0.05% THD, RMS, 20Hz - 20kHz)
160 watts x 2 @ 8Ω
240 watts x 2 @ 4Ω
The NCore NC502MP specs mention:
Max Output Power - 1KHz, THD=1%, All channels driven. Per channel.
500 W rms @ 4Ω
350 W rms @ 8Ω
Continuous Output Power 100 W rms
Out of curiosity, with the specs given above which amp is more powerful?