The equipment that he doesn't like, well, we just don't see those in review. Also, Steve has certain keywords that let a viewer know that an item might be an acquired taste, or only acceptable at a certain price point..
I think historically
all of the print-era reviewers did this, too (damning with faint praise, so to speak).
I'm thinking of Julian Hirsch
Thanks to
https://worldradiohistory.com/Archive-All-Audio/HiFI-Stereo-Review.htm we have easy (and searchable!) access to most of his
oeuvre.
... and, let me be clear, I enjoyed his writing and reviews in
Stereo Review back in those days
-- but he tended to be rather frustratingly circumspect. The much-missed
Audio's reviews used to be a bit more plainspoken.
Heck, even
Stereophile in its early days would be pretty blunt when they didn't like something -- and got into some pretty entertaining banter with designers and mfg. reps. in their comments section. Fun to look back at this stuff, too.
Stereophile is a monthly magazine that focuses on high-end home audio equipment, such as loudspeakers and amplifiers, and audio-related news, such as online audio streaming. It continues to be published.
worldradiohistory.com
I'll just close with my mantra:
I hate fricking video reviews. I like to read words and look at (still) photos and responsibly presented graphical data.