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S.M.S.L DA-9 vs AO200?

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DACslut

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It seems that there are several iterations or production runs of the DA-9. Mine was definitely one of the early production runs.
The second run had freezing or locking up problems. The latest seems to be problem free.
I have a strong suspicion that SMSL is intentionally not producing any measurements or loaning out a DA-9 to be measured because it very well may outperform some of their newer and more expensive amplifiers. There are so many user reviews that SMSL has got to be paying attention and listening to the various complaints and praise for the DA-9. I'm only going to buy the A0200 because i prefer the appearance. The Japanese Amazon reviews are extremely positive, with many owners having bought the DA-9 only to change over to the A0200. I think that speaks for itself.

Fortunately for me, I haven't had any issues other than the initial QC issues that I was able to fix myself with ease. It seems they are ironing out the issues as time goes by with the DA-9. The A0200 is basically the same amp using the same chips, and from the pictures that I have seen so far, circuit wise it is the same. The packaging is definitely different. How exactly that changes sound, or performance I have no idea. I suspect it will sound the same if the DA-9 is problem free. I really want to have a timed display shut off and have the screen location and volume knob match locations with my RME DAC. That is the only reason why I am buying one next month. I've had some family emergencies come up that has forced me to save as much money as I can so I'm a month behind in purchasing the A0200. But it's in my shopping cart in Amazon Japan!

Pictures will be posted as I'm sure many are interested in the differences between the two.

Have a good day dunkink!

My 1st AO200 was curiously defective. The amp's USB DAC input from 2 different Win10 computers with 3 different USB cables had it's L/R channels reversed. All other inputs including the BT and USB U-disk were channel correct. The amp was otherwise completely flawless! I've since returned the defective unit and ordered a replacement yesterday morning. I'm really hoping the new one is defect free because this amp is really special and an unparalleled value. Haven't seen or heard of anyone else experiencing issues with their AO200 which leads me to believe it was just an isolated SMSL QC fluke. Fingers crossed! ;)
 

jokan

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I have an issue free, early production model DA-9.
I will take delivery of the A0200 in about 8-10 hours.
I'm on the DA-9 is it worth it thread since the early days.
I am only buying the A0200 because the knobs line up with my RME DAC along with the screen auto-turn-off.
I will check operation, potential noise issues, check DC-offset etc.
Once I know it's working correctly, I will open the case and take photos for everyone to see.

Will keep everyone informed. The user comments on amazon japan's site is overwhelmingly positive. Most owners are "refugees" after buying the first and second production runs of the DA-9. The first run had QC issues some issues were easy to fix, some definitely were defective by measuring DC offset but sounded okay. The second run came with 4 rubber feet included instead of the original 3 feet, and that unit had locking up/freezing up issues with the OS. The current batch appears to be error/problem free for the DA-9. So basically half a year before they got it right, but the A0200 seems from all accounts to be problem free from the start. So fingers crossed that my A0200 will be free of any issues and will operate properly from the beginning.
 

Toku

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I just realized the DA-9 also lacks a rear master power switch.
The automatic ON/OFF of the display is a really useful function. The same function is incorporated in the DO200 DAC and HO200 HPA that will be released later.


The problems I found with the AO200 are trivial.

1. Reported that the dimensions of the AO200 were completely different on the SMSL and Aoshida HiFi HPs. Previously displayed was the DA-9 dimensions.

2. Pointed out that the display under the Bluetooth symbol on the display was misspelled as Bluethoot.

Aoshida HiFi's response to these issues was swift, immediate recovery and correction. The current product is fine.
 
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OP
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DACslut

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I have an issue free, early production model DA-9.
I will take delivery of the A0200 in about 8-10 hours.
I'm on the DA-9 is it worth it thread since the early days.
I am only buying the A0200 because the knobs line up with my RME DAC along with the screen auto-turn-off.
I will check operation, potential noise issues, check DC-offset etc.
Once I know it's working correctly, I will open the case and take photos for everyone to see.

Will keep everyone informed. The user comments on amazon japan's site is overwhelmingly positive. Most owners are "refugees" after buying the first and second production runs of the DA-9. The first run had QC issues some issues were easy to fix, some definitely were defective by measuring DC offset but sounded okay. The second run came with 4 rubber feet included instead of the original 3 feet, and that unit had locking up/freezing up issues with the OS. The current batch appears to be error/problem free for the DA-9. So basically half a year before they got it right, but the A0200 seems from all accounts to be problem free from the start. So fingers crossed that my A0200 will be free of any issues and will operate properly from the beginning.

I just ordered a DA-9 off the 'zon. What do you think my chances of getting a defect-free unit are? (logistics by Amazon and sold by SHENZHENAUDIO)
 

Toku

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My 1st AO200 was curiously defective. The amp's USB DAC input from 2 different Win10 computers with 3 different USB cables had it's L/R channels reversed. All other inputs including the BT and USB U-disk were channel correct. The amp was otherwise completely flawless! I've since returned the defective unit and ordered a replacement yesterday morning. I'm really hoping the new one is defect free because this amp is really special and an unparalleled value. Haven't seen or heard of anyone else experiencing issues with their AO200 which leads me to believe it was just an isolated SMSL QC fluke. Fingers crossed! ;)
I've thought a lot about the problem of L-R swapping when your PC is connected via USB.
Normally, such symptoms are unlikely to occur in manufacturing.
What do you use for your PC audio player?
Does the player have an L-R swap button?
I have had the same experience with you before. The cause at that time was that I accidentally touched the L-R swap button of the audio player I was using. It took me a long time to discover it.
 
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DACslut

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I've thought a lot about the problem of L-R swapping when your PC is connected via USB.
Normally, such symptoms are unlikely to occur in manufacturing.
What do you use for your PC audio player?
Does the player have an L-R swap button?
I have had the same experience with you before. The cause at that time was that I accidentally touched the L-R swap button of the audio player I was using. It took me a long time to discover it.

Unfortunately the problem was player independent. I used foobar2000 and Windows MP, however the stereo channels were only reversed when using the AO200's USB DAC input. I had other DAC and amp devices connected to the same 2 Win10 computers without any channels reversed. Thanks very much for your concern and suggestion. I know it seems almost impossible that my unit was defective in that way. Especially considering the amp was otherwise competely flawless! I've got a new AO200 & DA-9 heading my way soon. I'll keep whichever one I'm most happiest with. I'm hoping that it will be the AO200 but I could see myself keeping both if they're free of issues.
 

jokan

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I just received my A0200 this morning not so much to replace my DA-9 which performed flawlessly but for purely cosmetic reasons. My RME DAC and the A0200 have knobs in the middle, and the screen on the lower right corner. It looks better!

Sound wise, initially I was underwhelmed by the sound that I felt was similar to having the musicians behind a curtain. After 2.5 hour or so, I shut everything down and unplugged everything. During which time I opened the A0200. It is identical except for some locations and method of cooling the amplifier chipsets. The DA-9 uses a clamping down method via the bottom lid, where the A0200 has a sliding mechanism to remove the entire board. It's not as secure of a thermal seal, but I will be replacing the thermal paste for something far superior to the factory white grease. Upon reassembly and then reconnecting the amplifier, the difference was immediate. It now sounds identical to the DA-9 that I had been using for several months. I have one of the first production batches for my DA-9 and it had it's problems but I was able to fix them with ease so I considered it a non-issue. The A0200 now sounds exactly as I expected it to sound. I think it will continue to improve a little bit here and there. I probably won't notice anything quite as huge as that first power down, and power up though.

I think the reversed USB connection on your amplifier @DACslut might be just a manufacturing issue. It probably costs them little to nothing to fit the USB plug. It's also not the highest resolution out there. I would recommend an external DAC over using the USB from a PC machine. PC's tend to be noisy or noise makers compared to a mac for some reason. I think it might have to do with the fact that so many mac users are in the recording industry, and video industry. They want the best possible sound and video. I know that my Alienware Dell isn't the quietest machine out there. That's why it's far away from my amplifier, and on it's own mains power socket. I try to keep audio and computer stuff powered from different outlets, and as far away from one another as possible. It's overkill, but why not take the time to avoid potential issues right?

I hope your two amps show up and work correctly. Give them a bit of time before you make any judgement about what sounds like what. Give them a few power up/down cycles and you'll get a better picture of which one you like better.

Trust your ears. Don't trust the numbers on the volume knob to be "accurate" there's always a variance however small. Use familiar music that you know so well that you know when it's right or wrong. Give both amps the same treatment so you are giving both amps a fair chance to prove themselves to you!

I am a firm believer that SMSL undersold this series of amplifiers with the Infineon/Merus dual chipset. I think there's a reason why they keep pushing the higher priced units over the DA-9 and A0200. Mostly I think it's greed! I am certainly not a fan of the SA400 for many reasons the biggest being that it's an old design with new implementation, but the amplifier chip is old. A class D amplifier that needs cooling fans is 8-10 years old in design. It's certainly not state of the art.

Happy listening, and enjoy your equipment! I wonder which one you'll choose!
 
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DACslut

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I just received my A0200 this morning not so much to replace my DA-9 which performed flawlessly but for purely cosmetic reasons. My RME DAC and the A0200 have knobs in the middle, and the screen on the lower right corner. It looks better!

Sound wise, initially I was underwhelmed by the sound that I felt was similar to having the musicians behind a curtain. After 2.5 hour or so, I shut everything down and unplugged everything. During which time I opened the A0200. It is identical except for some locations and method of cooling the amplifier chipsets. The DA-9 uses a clamping down method via the bottom lid, where the A0200 has a sliding mechanism to remove the entire board. It's not as secure of a thermal seal, but I will be replacing the thermal paste for something far superior to the factory white grease. Upon reassembly and then reconnecting the amplifier, the difference was immediate. It now sounds identical to the DA-9 that I had been using for several months. I have one of the first production batches for my DA-9 and it had it's problems but I was able to fix them with ease so I considered it a non-issue. The A0200 now sounds exactly as I expected it to sound. I think it will continue to improve a little bit here and there. I probably won't notice anything quite as huge as that first power down, and power up though.

I think the reversed USB connection on your amplifier @DACslut might be just a manufacturing issue. It probably costs them little to nothing to fit the USB plug. It's also not the highest resolution out there. I would recommend an external DAC over using the USB from a PC machine. PC's tend to be noisy or noise makers compared to a mac for some reason. I think it might have to do with the fact that so many mac users are in the recording industry, and video industry. They want the best possible sound and video. I know that my Alienware Dell isn't the quietest machine out there. That's why it's far away from my amplifier, and on it's own mains power socket. I try to keep audio and computer stuff powered from different outlets, and as far away from one another as possible. It's overkill, but why not take the time to avoid potential issues right?

I hope your two amps show up and work correctly. Give them a bit of time before you make any judgement about what sounds like what. Give them a few power up/down cycles and you'll get a better picture of which one you like better.

Trust your ears. Don't trust the numbers on the volume knob to be "accurate" there's always a variance however small. Use familiar music that you know so well that you know when it's right or wrong. Give both amps the same treatment so you are giving both amps a fair chance to prove themselves to you!

I am a firm believer that SMSL undersold this series of amplifiers with the Infineon/Merus dual chipset. I think there's a reason why they keep pushing the higher priced units over the DA-9 and A0200. Mostly I think it's greed! I am certainly not a fan of the SA400 for many reasons the biggest being that it's an old design with new implementation, but the amplifier chip is old. A class D amplifier that needs cooling fans is 8-10 years old in design. It's certainly not state of the art.

Happy listening, and enjoy your equipment! I wonder which one you'll choose!

Thanks for the info, impressions, encouragement and advice. Other than opening up and slapping back together your AO200, what exactly was responsible for it sounding better afterwards? My sincerest apologies if it was explained, but I read your post 3 or 4 times without being further enlightened.

My AO200 sounded phenomenal right out of the box and actually improved after about a 1/2 dozen+ hours of moderate to loud output levels. With "soft clipping" enabled, I gave it a decent workout at a small (40 ppl) outdoor family gathering driving 2 sets of stacked Sony SS-CS5's connected in an "MTM" parallel configuration about 12ft apart. Volume levels were frequently set into the mid and upper 50's. I might've even had it into 60's territory a few times! The AO200 never even reached external lukewarm temperatures and hit those Sony's HARD and CLEAN like they were made for it. Also got several compliments on how nice sounding the setup was. I just didn't realize at the time the channels being reversed until I got home with everything and used headphones.

I wholeheartedly agree with your theory of SMSL underselling these new Infineon/Merus amps. One could probably say the same about Sabaj and their impressive A20a amp. In these instances "Greed Is Good" because we, the consumer, are the beneficiaries of corporate greed for a change.
 
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jokan

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Thanks for the info, impressions, encouragement and advice. Other than opening up and slapping back together your AO200, what exactly was responsible for it sounding better afterwards? My sincerest apologies if it was explained, but I read your post 3 or 4 times without being further enlightened.

My AO200 sounded phenomenal right out of the box and actually improved after about a 1/2 dozen+ hours of moderate to loud output levels. With "soft clipping" enabled, I gave it a decent workout at a small (40 ppl) outdoor family gathering driving 2 sets of stacked Sony SS-CS5's connected in an "MTM" parallel configuration about 12ft apart. Volume levels were frequently set into the mid and upper 50's. I might've even had it into 60's territory a few times! The AO200 never even reached lukewarm temperatures and hit those Sony's HARD and CLEAN like they were made for it. Also got several compliments on how nice sounding the setup was. I just didn't realize at the time the channels being reversed until I got home with everything and used headphones.

I wholeheartedly agree with your theory of SMSL underselling these new Infineon/Merus amps. One could probably say the same about Sabaj and their impressive A20a amp. In these instances "Greed Is Good" because we, the consumer, are the beneficiaries of corporate greed for a change.

You can also ask @Toku San who is an electrical engineer first, and an audiophile of equal measure. There is a phenomenon that happens with all passive electronic parts where electrical current passes through a device such as an amplifier which has many capacitors, many resistors, many diodes, many types of capacitors for different applications, and rectifiers in some cases. These devices take a short to longer as in 100+ hours before some of them (the more expensive and exotic parts, not found in Class D amplifiers most of the time) to settle down and their parameters as well as performance levels off. The ultra-ultra high end amplifier companies, companies that sell amplifiers in the low 100's sometimes not even 100 amplifiers put their amplifiers on a test bench with all manner of equipment measuring for the smallest variance to ensure that the customer or end user gets exactly what was promised. This process takes many hours, usually several days before the manufacturer is satisfied that the amplifier passes all of their extremely stringent quality and performance control tests. A very well known speaker company mills the copper traces for their loudspeaker crossover networks out of solid virgin copper that is several mils thick to ensure the best conductivity and sound.

There are several phenomenon at work, one of them is Gaussing. Old CRT televisions, Pre LED, OLED, and used a cathode array tube to project an image inside the vacuum sealed glass screen were sensitive to non-shielded speakers, so it was common place for speaker companies to warn customers not to place their speakers too close to a television screen. It would warp the screen, change the colour spectrum, often permanently damaging the television if left there for a prolonged time. This happens with nearly all electronics. Electro Magnetic Waves interfere with everything. Passing DC current and also AC current through amplifier circuits somehow straightens out the direction of the electrical flow. Capacitors are like tiny instant discharge batteries that can store a huge or small amount of current depending upon use and application. In the power supply of an amplifier, it is there to deliver instant power or reserve power when needed for loud passages (think bass). These capacitors have an operating window and lifespan. Some exceed 15000 hours at rated power and current measured in amps or watts. The less expensive amplifiers typically have capacitors that range between 1000-5000 hours for rated lifespan and at full operating temperature. These parts are wear items and they peak in performance at some point and maintain that standard before they eventually die from either use, or shelf life. Resistors also have current passing through them and therefore they not only heat up, but they change properties ever so slightly, even a 1% tolerance resistor will change characteristics. When you combine all of these variables, something a bit peculiar happens very often though not all the time. What happens is with an amplifier, some of the rough edges you heard at first might soften a little. An amplifier may sound less harsh. Or the bass might suddenly appear to have more authority. It's usually noticeable in the midrange where our ears are naturally tuned to hear human voices. Suddenly the singer has more presence. They sound more alive. This is widely known as a phenomenon, but it has not been adequately explained by maths, or by measurements.

For example I have many amplifiers, some are tube amplifiers. One particular tube amplifier has only 4.5 watts per channel of output, or 9 watts of output in total. Damping factor is next to zero. Actually probably zero on this amplifier. However it makes music that is so life like that it's shocking. Bare in mind that the 2 capacitors that are called coupling capacitors that act on the input tube and out to the output tubes cost more than a single DA-9 or A0200. They are also rated at an insane 1200VAC! I assembled it about 4 years ago in it's final iteration after replacing countless coupling capacitors to find not only the right value but the right particular construction and construction material. I'm a lifelong Pink Floyd or David Gilmour fan so I used his music for a baseline on what I think his guitars should sound like. I've heard enough systems that play his music convincingly that I think I know what his "sound" is. So choosing the parts was as important as the 4 tubes themselves. The tubes alone cost many times more than the DA-9.

This isn't a bragging thing. I am trying to explain to you that music reproduction isn't purely about measurements. It's true that you need measurements to confirm what you are hearing and vise versa. This is why the exotic speaker and amplifier companies spend countless hours "voicing" their creations. My little amplifier can play Tupac and Biggie Smalls as well as NWA. It doesn't sound as good as the DA-9 or my A0200. It just doesn't have the controlled bass. The bass with the tube amplifier with hip-hop music or hardcore gangsta rap is flabby and loose. Not very controlled. A class D amplifier usually has much more control over the speaker cones movement.

To make this as short as possible, you heard an improvement. That improvement was not in your imagination. You have good enough ears and good enough equipment that you can hear that change, and it is usually a sudden improvement even though miniscule improvements continue for some time after that. The first big improvement is real. It coincided with when all of those passive parts started to work in unison as a complete system. People like to argue that measurements are measurements. I've been in the Hi-Fi industry professionally for over 30 years, Toku-San has been around for longer. We both understand that there is something that we can't quite measure that is going on, it's likely a combination of variables that causes this sudden change. We call it burning-in, or sometimes it's referred to as aging, but the effects are noticeable and if you can notice it, that should be enough for you. Some like to argue about measurements in laboratory conditions. But let me ask you this. Do you think an amplifier sold for the $250-$300 goes through stringent quality control, including powering up every single amplifier and checking that they perform exactly as originally designed, or is it more likely that they take a random unit off the assembly line, run a short test and stamp it with a passed QC sticker. A QC sticker can also mean that it was assembled but nothing more. That is a form of legitimate QC. It's not what most of us would consider ethical, but there are no industry standards that govern these companies.

May I suggest that you follow this thread also:
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...l-da9-wait-and-see-or-solid-buy.21927/page-55
It's probably worth reading through all 55 pages, there are several pages that you can ignore as you will discover. The trouble really is that people in general have been sold on this partially correct view that measurements are king. They are not. Is a 1000hp Honda the same as a 1000hp Ferrari in driving experience. In quality? Absolutely not. Is there a huge amount of satisfaction by beating a 1000hp Ferrari with a honda? Of course there is. And yes, 1000 horsepower honda's do exist. They are insanely fast. Of course it's still a civic or something similar. The SMSL amplifiers, the Topping DAC's and other far east products are like those crazy fast honda's. They're good to a point. But then the build quality and the pride of ownership isn't anywhere near close.

Unfortunately there isn't enough money in researching your competitors product and why it is good or bad. There's no money in understanding how the human ear which uses tiny hair follicles, the reverse of a record cartridge and transfers that through an interface like an amplifier into sound that we hear. Of course the most important bit is the actual voice or speaker. Then it is the input stage of an amplifier. Just how the signals are processed and then moved on to the power amplifier whose sole job is to amplify the input signal.

You heard what you heard. The explanation is convoluted but also actually simple if you decide that your ears tell you more than measurements.
Bare in mind that no two rooms are the same. The same model speakers from the same era but used by different owners in different climates will change the sound of those speakers. The variables are countless.

My best advice for you is to read magazines like Hi-Fi+ from the UK. Sure you probably can't afford mostly all of the equipment, but it gives you a target and they explain the technology, and they get into the mechanics of how we hear music. They maybe the last mostly honest magazine still available. Also 6moons is a good site to get information about exotic products with reviews. Since each and everyone of us has differing degrees of hearing loss, as our homes and rooms are completely different, you cannot expect to go to a store and purchase something that sounds great at a the local high street shop and expect it to perform the same. Of course speakers need a lot more time to break-in as they are mechanical by design and have a lifespan. They are stiff and do not want to move at first. After many hours of use, they loosen up and just like your experience with the amplifier, it suddenly opens up.

I'll probably catch a lot of slack for posting this but I am prepared for that. I've been in the Hi-Fi industry since 1992-1993, I took a little break but I was always involved in the industry and I am currently 44 years of age. I'm just shy of 30 years of professional hi-fi retail and manufacturers representative/distributor for a great many companies in the early to late 90's. By the time the 2000's rolled around, the industry shifted into cheaper is better. Come late 2000's some of the younger guys became more financially successful and hi-fi got it's second wind.

The answers to your very valid question are spread all around. This isn't the only forum out there. You cannot take any forum for it's word as many are sponsored outright or are given other incentives to make only positive comments or reviews. Hearing is extremely subjective. Find something you like, learn and understand why you prefer it to other items, then you have your own personal baseline to work from. Use measurements that can't be disputed as a guideline. They will help you to narrow down your search.

Apologies for the lengthy reply, I hope you can make sense of it. I did my best not to ramble and present not just subjective but also objective reasons for what you asked about. You have every reason to be confused. The top manufacturers guard their secret methods for good reason.

I hope this helps. And again I apologise for the lengthy response. Feel free to send me a message if you have specific questions, hopefully I can help you figure out what you're finding out. There are many ways to get the sound you want, many ways to ruin what you've already got. I think I can help you there. I prefer to keep the thread clear of a lot of hearsay so please send me a private message. I'll be happy to try and help!

Short messages on the board really don't give the opportunity to delve deeper, so I understand where you had difficulty. It's certainly not your fault!
 

jokan

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Some pics for you.

The inside of the SMSL AO200!

The second to last picture is the mess that the OEM white thermal grease made. There is a significant gap between the aluminium heat sink blocks and thin grease doesn't cut it for cooling in my book. I used the same paste on my DA-9 which ran cooler than my acrylic rack by a considerable amount.

The last picture is the paste I used, it's almost like cake batter it's so thick.
 

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jokan

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As you know, it's been about 30 hours since I took delivery of my SMSL/Aoshida AO200 amplifier from Amazon Japan.
To my surprise, a Japanese gentleman (definitely native Japanese, not a bot pretending to be Japanese) sent me an email asking me if everything arrived in working condition. I left him email that the Bluetooth when selected reads Bluetoot, missing the H. And that I am observing the amplifier for DC-Offset issues that may or maynot arise.

I was amazed by this after-service or customer care. Definitely will be doing more business with them in the future over SMSL!

The sound of the A0200 and DA-9 is identical with XLR's as the connection method. I think there maybe a slight edge with the A0200 due to the placement of the PSU internally. The DA-9 has the PSU mounted directly behind the LCD screen and the driver, regardless of volume had a high-pitched and very faint whine. You had to have your ear on the display to hear it. I did manage to eliminate that noise completely through either the thermal paste, or the EMI/RFI absorption tape that I placed around the driver portion of the PSU. I'll attach some pics below of the DA-9 for reference.

You do gain a few features with the A0200 and I think that makes it a better purchase. The bluetooth is AptX the device pops up as SMSL BT5.0C, the DA-9 used the same BT unit as the DA-8s a several years old amplifier. The DA-9 and DA-8s showed up as SMSL BT5.0A.
The built in USB A audio input (cable supplied) is CD quality sound and with a well mastered recording a CD can sound terrific, so I have no complaints about the USB input though I already placed a protective dust cover over it as I will not be using it.

The pics of the DA-9 power supply unit or PSU. There's some silver/grey tape that you will see, this is tape by Oyaide Electric, part number:
MWA-010T
The circuit board of the DA-9 with the cut-out for the PSU. The grey material is directly behind the LCD display, millimeters away, maybe 3mm's. I think that the layout of the A0200 is more thought out and the mounting in the end is the best compromise that they could come up with.

Hope this helps!
 

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jokan

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I have sold my DA-9 about an hour ago for just over 1/3rd of the going retail price from amazon japan which is 27,999 yen. I was paid 10,000 yen!

I will only post on the A0200 thread from now on as I don't own the DA-9.
The new thermal paste has cured to it's semi-hard state. The temps came down, the DC-offset came way, way down. I used 2 multimeters to confirm my results, 0.4mV and 0.5mV L/R channels.

Completely a subjective opinion on the sound difference between the DA-9 and A0200. I think that the A0200 has a slight edge over the DA-9. I believe this has a lot to do with the physical placement of the PSU within the chassis of the amplifiers. If I was tested by listening to both amplifiers at the same decibel level with the exact same environment, I am sure I will notice the ever so slight increase in just about every part of the sound but I think it comes from a lower noise floor. Not that either of these amplifiers have been officially measured by any second or third party, but I would guess that the noise floor is indeed lower with the A0200.

The USB-A input is actually as good as an above average priced CD player for sound quality playing the same tracks at the same output decibel level. It's not 192/24 FLAC, but it's plenty good enough to not make buying a super nice DAC so much of a necessity. Yes a better DAC would always help, but for casual listening, I think the supplied USB-A input is bang up to the task.

The BT5.0 is AptX so it is indeed better than the DA-9 for BT.

The A0200 just needs to have the Bluetoot(h) corrected for spelling! There's an "H" in Bluetooth!

I can easily recommend this amplifier to anyone who is shopping for a good to great sounding amplifier, who doesn't care about brand name but cares about good sound. This amplifier is very musical. It's not trying to accurately playback a test-tone. The size is great, the packaging is in my mind okay, and about average. But ultimately the sound is what makes or breaks an amplifier. I have tried it on all of my speakers, I have 10 pairs of speakers including some ELAC's with Heil-Motion-Tweeters. The ELAC's made in Germany. The A0200 can play my self designed 2.7 ohm speakers, my 4 and 6 ohm speakers and my 8 ohm speakers with no complaints. I can play the amplifier loud enough to have the neighbours complain. That's plenty of power for me, and more than that, this amplifier makes music.

Happy listening guys. If I come across new data or have any sudden failures, I will let you guys know!
 

escape2

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The A0200 just needs to have the Bluetoot(h) corrected for spelling! There's an "H" in Bluetooth!
Do we know if the firmware is user-upgradeable via USB so that this spelling error could be easily corrected on existing units?
 

jokan

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The USB A port is for internal DAC use only.
I think we have to wait for a production run that fixes the bluetoot display. It's also easily fixed by turning off the screen with the timer!
I don't know if or when they'll fix it. I certainly hope they get around to it. I've received a questionnaire after taking delivery from Aoshida Japan asking me if everything is ok, I mentioned that I am in the early stages of testing everything but the bluetooth selection is right, just not once you select it and it reads bluetoot! So they're aware of the issue!

I don't have any more information than anyone else. It's a different type of logic board to allow for a firmware update. I think it is actually internally connected off the BT but has an input selector that allows for USB-A audio input. Don't forget the extremely low price of the unit. There will always be compromises at this price point, just not from the sound aspect!
 

jokan

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I have just found out that I have made a grave error.
The Bluetooth is in fact NOT AptX. I have no idea where I got that information from, but I am definitely incorrect. It is a longer range BT5.0. I do think it sounds a lot better than the BT module that was fitted to the DA-9 though. I couldn't tolerate the DA-9's BT at all. I can on the other hand deal with the A0200's bluetoot!

See what I did there? lol.

My amplifier remains very stable indeed. I have no issues with the sound, noise, or any other parameter I can think of with my ears.

As I have stated, double the power and double the power supply in the same sized chassis would be sort of a dream come true for me. There actually is space to do so, but I don't think that the chips that are available will allow for a 2 channel stereo amplifier using their chipsets and have double the output power. At least double is what I would like, only for extreme transients, not for the increased volume, it would just make the amp sound a tiny bit (maybe a lot better).

I am more than capable of admitting when I am somehow misled or just plain wrong/incorrect about things. It's important to get as many facts as possible, but this being Audio and us using tiny hairs in our ears that fall out due to the aging process, our ears are what they are. I can still tell when something sounds fundamentally correct or just plain wrong. I auditioned a tribute tube amplifier costing many thousands of dollars, 10's of thousands of Yen and I walked out because the amplifier was designed so poorly that it could not play Eric Clapton's Unplugged on Vinyl without smearing instruments and making acoustic guitars sound like electric guitars (almost that bad). So I apologise for my mistake, the BT is much improved over the DA-8s and DA-9 but it is not AptX! Mea Culpa!
 
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eldegal

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ordered the AO200, hope it will arrive in one piece. :eek:
I tried searching on taobao for a better price , its price around 1600 chinese yuan (~247 USD) but the shipment cost makes the total bill the same as amz/ali's price.
 

jokan

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Please do yourself a huge favour and play normal music whatever music you like, the more bandwidth the music has, more treble and bass it has the better, but no louder than the same as the human speaking voice for the first 2-3 hours. Listen to it very critically. Leave all the settings flat, no bass or treble boost, no SDB. Direct source. Then shut it off by unplugging your amplifier. Remember how your favourite song sounded, don't change the volume as it will fool you into thinking that it sounds better or worse.

After resting the amplifier for a minimum of 30 minute, an hour is probably best. Then turn it back on, return the volume back to the previous level. See what you hear. The process should last about 1 week of cycling on and off, though the first cycle of on/off will be the biggest change. The rest are in the micro-details in my experience with my amplifier.
The last big improvement came on day 5 of my ownership. Suddenly everything was in much better focus. Results will change by your location *your power in your country is different from mine in Japan. Some places have what they call "dirty power", lots of noise in the power lines. After day 5 you will probably not be able to hear any change though small changes are happening.

Congratulations on your purchase. FYI, mine came in a plastic Amazon bag, completely dent free and not a corner damaged. But the sponge inside is heavy duty. I doubt very highly that you will have any damage unless the unit is defective!

After you are done with what is sometimes called "burn-in", or "aging", then you might want to move your speakers around, actually I recommend it. your tweeters should be at ear level if possible. You should be in the middle of your speakers. You can "toe" the speakers in or out to focus the sound more or less depending on your preference.

Hopefully you get one of the newest ones, no way of telling other than selecting bluetooth and seeing the normal resting screen that will say bluetoot, or bluetooth. I have been in touch with the japanese distributor and the only change that was made is the spelling mistake. When you select source, it will say bluetooth. The resting screen might not! But if you're like me, I have the screen set to turn off after 5 seconds anyway so i don't care. Aoshida Japan offered to pay for return shipping and replace my unit for free but couldn't say how long it would take. I told them I don't care about the misspelling and they offered to refund me the amount for shipping which is about $15! Aoshida Japan from Amazon really is top notch! Excellent customer service.

Check your DAC connection with a computer as some users have had the left and right channels switched during assembly, mine was not.
Scroll down and look at the pictures I took of the internal structure of the amplifier and notice the improved thermal paste. It does make a small difference even though electrically, it should not make any difference. And it is not in my mind. I measured the changes, they're real.

Enjoy it. Hopefully you have XLR inputs as you will get the most benefit from it over RCA connections, even though RCA is VERY good!

Take care!
 

eldegal

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Please do yourself a huge favour and play normal music whatever music you like, the more bandwidth the music has, more treble and bass it has the better, but no louder than the same as the human speaking voice for the first 2-3 hours. Listen to it very critically. Leave all the settings flat, no bass or treble boost, no SDB. Direct source. Then shut it off by unplugging your amplifier. Remember how your favourite song sounded, don't change the volume as it will fool you into thinking that it sounds better or worse.
really appreciate your enthusiasm, but I already knew those kinds of stuff too.
I'm just a young fresh graduate who likes listening to music with decent audio quality for over 10 years, not an audiophile wannabe. :D
 
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