. I saw the VM540ml mentioned but never checked it out.
I really like mine...
. I saw the VM540ml mentioned but never checked it out.
Ya I saw the linked article with the measurements, thanks! I saw multiple people liking it more than the Bronze, and one guy more than the Black (he owned both). The recording Helicopter posted sounds great to me, I wanted to get out of the junk $50 cartridges and get to the "good" level, thenI have the MP-110 and don't recommend it, unless for very easy to track grooves or noisy discs, IMHO the 540 is even better than Bronze....but better look more opinions in the "uncolored cartridge" link, there's even a digital take with the 540 ;-)
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...uncoloured-phono-cartridges.16020/post-622298
If the headshell is compatible with the overhang it seems there's no problem. I use the cheap SH4 in a PLX-1000, and tested the original Technics with 440 or 540 capsules and I don't hear or measure any difference, same tonearm resonance. Ortofon SH4 9.4 grs, Technics 5.5 grsYa I saw the linked article with the measurements, thanks! I saw multiple people liking it more than the Bronze, and one guy more than the Black (he owned both). The recording Helicopter posted sounds great to me, I wanted to get out of the junk $50 cartridges and get to the "good" level, then
UPDATE:
So I returned the 2M Blue and Ortofon SH-4, and will be ordering the VM540ML and I guess the AT-HS6BK Headshell for only $9 more. I really wish more companies made white headshells .
And is there any reason I shouldn't go with the better looking AT-HS6BK over the more SL1200-like AT-HS1?
I get that. And I wouldn't discourage anyone from playing around. That is what analog is good for. Just don't expect finality.It's not that, it's just that I like to do my research and try to get the best I can for my money, so I don't have to spend more money down the road fixing/upgrading what I previously bought. I upped my budget from $300 to over $1000 because I was hearing noticeable differences between tables and cartridges. My hope is that I can buy a TT once and be done forever, while having good sound.
I read that clamps can potentially be harder on the TT. I like the idea but also just want something easy that I can just drop on instead of screwing on. Here's a short video comparing the two.Why the weight rather than a clamp?
Welcome!
I'm a fan of the Parks Puffin as a phono pre. Not sure of your budget, but might be worth checking out.
I really like mine...
I have some old used records I picked up that are warped, but maybe I'll hold off until I get the table fully set up and see how it goes.My modified clothes peg was clearly insufficiently overengineered - near instant to apply/remove, and only as much force as was needed to try to flatten out a record applied via the other hand for the moment it took to attach. I stopped bothering much as without a dished platter it didn't seem to make much difference. Maybe the relatively few warped records weren't warped in the 'right' way?
Ya I think I was reading some posts you did about the VM540ML. Helped me choose to return the 2M Blue and get it. While I have the money for a MP-500, I don't really want to spend that much on a cart. I'm just not THAT into vinylI like my VM540ML for the $250 price and for a rock / pop / funk cart.
But I'm not going to be selling my MP-500 or MCs* any time soon.
*except maybe the DL-103
Ya I think I was reading some posts you did about the VM540ML. Helped me choose to return the 2M Blue and get it. While I have the money for a MP-500, I don't really want to spend that much on a cart. I'm just not THAT into vinyl
It might still be in one of the boxes of bits somewhere. Take one wooden clothes peg - the sort with the spring where you squeeze the end to open the jaws, not the solid wooden sort with the saw cut down the middle. Cut the jaws short just below the spring. Remove the spring and put the peg in a clamp to hold the jaws shut, and drill down the length of the peg - this will be the bit that grips the spindle. I probably used 7mm - with 9/32" you might need to sand the inside flat faces a little to give it room to close further. Reassemble the peg and you have something that will grip the spindle quite well, and is quick and easy. You can chop the other end shorter if it's too long to fit under the lid.I have some old used records I picked up that are warped, but maybe I'll hold off until I get the table fully set up and see how it goes.
I'd like to see that "modified clothes peg" though lol
UPDATE:
Didn't want to spend $300 on a preamp but it seems like it's the best in the sub $300 category. It's funny because originally my TT budget was $300 and I was going to use my old preamp lol. Now I'm spending $1500 altogether RIP
Ah I see haha. My coworker has a 3D printer actually, but if I’m going to spend money on a weight, I could just get a clamp instead. They’re like the same price.It might still be in one of the boxes of bits somewhere. Take one wooden clothes peg - the sort with the spring where you squeeze the end to open the jaws, not the solid wooden sort with the saw cut down the middle. Cut the jaws short just below the spring. Remove the spring and put the peg in a clamp to hold the jaws shut, and drill down the length of the peg - this will be the bit that grips the spindle. I probably used 7mm - with 9/32" you might need to sand the inside flat faces a little to give it room to close further. Reassemble the peg and you have something that will grip the spindle quite well, and is quick and easy. You can chop the other end shorter if it's too long to fit under the lid.
If you're up to 3d printing it would be fairly easy to design something mechanically similar, but looking a lot more HiFi, and print it in black or white to match your theme.
Thanks, that’s the goal, a Good enough” system that gets most of the quality but before dumping thousands for the last few percent of performance.Funny how that goes.
That said, it looks like you're putting together a system that should sound quite decent... After some required pain.
Ya I wish I had the tools to do tests like that. I figure that clamps/weights will make some difference but not a ton. I was trying to look up outer ring weights because that’s where a lot of the warp is on bad records, but that’s getting pretty extreme lol.Regarding mats and clamps: In my tweakier audiophile days, everything seemed to make a sonic difference! But now I own a real time analyzer and for grins I experimented to see how much difference I'd see on the RTA with needle down in a stationary record groove as I tapped the platter and surface of the record.
And although the platter of my Audio Technica LP120USB is thinner and lighter than that of an SL1200, and it rings like a bell when struck, even the stock felt DJ mat dampened it surprisingly well. I also bought a rubber mat from Audio Technica, and it seemed to work about the same.
However, I ended up stacking one mat atop the other, because otherwise, the record was sitting too low for me to set tonearm height properly.
I did get the sense that vibration in the record died down faster if I applied a little bit of weight or clamping force to the label area, but it didn't seem to take much to make a difference.
The other thing I came to appreciate is the value of a subsonic filter! It's amazing how much low-frequency crud the stylus can pick up even when no music is playing. Subjectively, I thought it made for cleaner and punchier bass.