Looking for solutions to PC noise coming through stereo monitors

[III-V]

My first post here, I have been lurking here for some time, as I was looking through reviews and decided on picking up some ADAM audio T5V studio monitors on the black friday sale. They sound wonderful and I am very happy with the sound quality of the speakers. What I am less than pleased with is the miserable PC noise that I am picking up through the monitors.

I am currently using RCA cables and have disabled all but the relevant audio drivers, I have used the line out port on the back of my PC, the headphone port on the back and the front, as well as the headphone port on my display. No matter what I can not escape the PC noise. I know the noise is not cause by the speakers or the cables themselves, as I have hooked them up to my laptop and they were silent.

Typical troubleshooting also points to a ground loop. I have all power plugged into a single CyberPower Sinewave UPS. In addition, I can hear odd noises like my mouse scrolling around. So I think that the issue is likely shielding internal to the PC and possibly related to interactions between the mobo and graphics card. My thinking is that this issue is unlikely to be resolved without mobo replacement, or really spending quite a bit of time troubleshooting.

Does anyone have experience with this, and if so what are my options here? I am thinking that I could purchase an external DAC, but I want to stay under $100 ideally and I really do not know if this is a real solution or not. My mobo has a toslink out. I was also looking at in-line ground-loop noise isolators, and I think that should work but they also impact the low frequency response of the music and introduce some additional distortion.

Let me know if you need some clarifications.

This video gives a good explanation of what the noises sound like but doesn't really solve my issue.

 

[staticV3]

I would first try using these cables: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-XLR-Male-RCA-Cable/dp/B001UJH0XU

The way they're constructed means that you can take advantage of your T5V's differential XLR input with its strong CMRR, even when using normal RCA or 3.5mm sources.


If that doesn't help, then you could try a USB Isolator like these, combined with an Apple dongle for D->A conversion:
https://www.tpdz.net/productinfo/733226.html
https://hifimediy.com/product/hifime-high-speed-usb-isolator-v2/
https://aliexpress.com/item/1005001927948863.html

Alternatively, you could buy a DAC with differential Line out. Something like the SMSL M300 SE.

In theory, all three of these solutions should get rid of the noise, so I'd go in order of least to most expensive, and buy from places with an easy return policy in case one of these solutions doesn't work out for some reason.

 

[OldTimer]

Last time I have issues in grounding so I asked an electrician to dig more for the ground and replace new wall socket as well.

 

[Count Arthur]

Are your audio cables close to your computer cables, the mouse cable in particular?

 

[III-V]

I would first try using these cables: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-XLR-Male-RCA-Cable/dp/B001UJH0XU

The way they're constructed means that you can take advantage of your T5V's differential XLR input with its strong CMRR, even when using normal RCA or 3.5mm sources.
View attachment 329488 View attachment 329489

If that doesn't help, then you could try a USB Isolator like these, combined with an Apple dongle for D->A conversion:
https://www.tpdz.net/productinfo/733226.html
https://hifimediy.com/product/hifime-high-speed-usb-isolator-v2/
https://aliexpress.com/item/1005001927948863.html

Alternatively, you could buy a DAC with differential Line out. Something like the SMSL M300 SE.

In theory, all three of these solutions should get rid of the noise, so I'd go in order of least to most expensive, and buy from places with an easy return policy in case one of these solutions doesn't work out for some reason.

Ok, so the XLR to RCA cables would have the grounds tied together at the RCA point of contact but they would break before the input amplifier of the T5V. I did not think of that. That may do the trick, thank you.

 

[III-V]

Last time I have issues in grounding so I asked an electrician to dig more for the ground and replace new wall socket as well.

oof

Are your audio cables close to your computer cables, the mouse cable in particular?

The mouse is a wireless dongle, but even if I unplug it, and unplug all USB devices, I still get the noise leaking through.

 

[DVDdoug]

I have used the line out port on the back of my PC, the headphone port on the back and the front, as well as the headphone port on my display. No matter what I can not escape the PC noise. I know the noise is not cause by the speakers or the cables themselves, as I have hooked them up to my laptop and they were silent...

...I am thinking that I could purchase an external DAC, but I want to stay under $100.

Some soundcards/motherboards are just noisy. (Often it's noise getting into the analog side through the power supply).

A USB DAC (or cheap "USB soundcard") may work but with the external soundcard or USB powered DAC, sometimes you can get noise through the USB power. And if you do get noise with that setup you don't know if the computer is extra-noisy or if the DAC is extra-sensitive to power supply noise... (USB power is almost always noisy, which is no problem for digital data.)

So a DAC with its own separate power supply is more likely to solve the problem but they are usually more expensive.

The Apple dongle is probably worth the gamble ($10 USD.)

 

[III-V]

Some soundcards/motherboards are just noisy. (Often it's noise getting into the analog side through the power supply).

A USB DAC (or cheap "USB soundcard") may work but with the external soundcard or USB powered DAC, sometimes you can get noise through the USB power. And if you do get noise with that setup you don't know if the computer is extra-noisy or if the DAC is extra-sensitive to power supply noise... (USB power is almost always noisy, which is no problem for digital data.)

So a DAC with its own separate power supply is more likely to solve the problem but they are usually more expensive.

The Apple dongle is probably worth the gamble ($10 USD.)

I have an apple dongle, but I do not have a USB-C port on my PC lol
There was a recommendation earlier to use a USB isolator in combination with an apple dongle so that could potentially solve that problem if there is an isolator with a usb to usb-c interface.

 

[Dunring]

I've tried that so many times with RCA out from a Soundblaster AE-9 and 3.5mm out to things like a JDS Atom and the noise of that connection is almost impossible to escape, especially if you have a hot video card. The choices are go optical out if you have it to a DAC, or placing a sound card up against the shielded side of your power supply as far from everything as possible. A febsmart USB 2 port card is $14 and they work great located in a slot away from everything as well. You could plug an Apple USB adapter into it and that should work depending if your power supply is facing down and drawing air from under the case (if it has vents). Then the shielding and location should be good.

The only other thing is your mainboard has a header where your case sound ports plug in, but that long run picks up interference just as badly. Cable routing it away from everything by tucking it away to the other side of the mainboard first, then running it on the outside along the metal plate the MB is attached to can provide extra protection. Just depends on your case, if you have a slot nearby to tuck it into and the cable will still be long enough to run it.

From a practical point, if you can locate a Febsmart USB card down at the bottom of the case, and stick the Apple USB adapter there you might be good. I have a gaming system with a Topping A90/D90LE plugged into mine in that location and the noise floor is completely silent.

 

[III-V]

I've tried that so many times with RCA out from a Soundblaster AE-9 and 3.5mm out to things like a JDS Atom and the noise of that connection is almost impossible to escape, especially if you have a hot video card. The choices are go optical out if you have it to a DAC, or placing a sound card up against the shielded side of your power supply as far from everything as possible. A febsmart USB 2 port card is $14 and they work great located in a slot away from everything as well. You could plug an Apple USB adapter into it and that should work depending if your power supply is facing down and drawing air from under the case (if it has vents). Then the shielding and location should be good.

The only other thing is your mainboard has a header where your case sound ports plug in, but that long run picks up interference just as badly. Cable routing it away from everything by tucking it away to the other side of the mainboard first, then running it on the outside along the metal plate the MB is attached to can provide extra protection. Just depends on your case, if you have a slot nearby to tuck it into and the cable will still be long enough to run it.

From a practical point, if you can locate a Febsmart USB card down at the bottom of the case, and stick the Apple USB adapter there you might be good. I have a gaming system with a Topping A90/D90LE plugged into mine in that location and the noise floor is completely silent.

Yes, I have a 3070. Maybe you could have a look at the attached image. Where would you suggest placing the port card?

 

[audio_tony]

I use a PC (i7 with a GTX20xx GFX card) for audio testing. I have an PCie sound card (Asus Xonar DX) and noise is not an issue until I create a ground loop.

The T5V speakers appear to have a mains earth connection, so I think it's quite certain you have a ground loop issue.

The cables suggested in post #2 might solve the issue, however a USB sound card with USB isolator would likely be the way forward.

Some of the Ground Loop Noise Isolators you refer to typically have transformers for decoupling and those transformers are not always the best quality.

Another thing you could try (if they're not connected in this way already) is to keep the speaker mains cables as short as possible, and plug the speakers and PC into the same extension - this will lower the ground impedance between the devices.

Another trick I use is a USB to SPDIF converter with an isolator transformer (most decent ones have this) and then feed that into an external DAC.

 

[TrevC]

I used to get these kind of effects and reduced them with ferrites on the cables but since I used an inexpensive Behringer USB DAC all such problems have disappeared. Audio quality is better too.

 

[BDWoody]

Yes, I have a 3070. Maybe you could have a look at the attached image. Where would you suggest placing the port card?

View attachment 329511

What motherboard are you using? It may have an optical spdif built into the I/O area, or may have spdif headers you could plug into without needing a card.

Edit: sometimes there are dual purpose jacks that will take a mini-toslink for digital in addition to the normal analog connector for analog.

 

[staticV3]

I have an apple dongle, but I do not have a USB-C port on my PC lol
There was a recommendation earlier to use a USB isolator in combination with an apple dongle so that could potentially solve that problem if there is an isolator with a usb to usb-c interface.

You can plug your Apple dongle into regular USB-A ports using simple adapters like this:

There is no downside.

So you don't have to find an isolator with Type-C output. Type-A will do just fine (if you decide to go down that route)

You can even find some A male to C female cables: https://steelseries.com/gaming-accessories/usb-c-usb-cable

 

[holbob]

I solved this very problem only 2 days ago. Bought some Kali LP-6v2, and kept hearing LOUD noises during video games, basically it was the GPU noise as it was kicking in. Buzzing noise rather than hard drive noises, it was still there outside games but quite under the radar. I tried everything cable wise, plugging all sockets into the same power strip, etc. The Kali has RCA in, XLR in, and a button to switch off the RCA ports incase of interference. The connection culprit was the USB port from the PC to the minidsp Flex. I tired RCA to XLR, and RCA to RCA (with Van Damme cables). I didn't try a pseudo balanced RCA to XLR cable (as suggested above), but that was next on my list. I was looking at one with Van Damme starquad cable, as the starquad itself rejects a small amout of noise as well as the pseudo balanced connection.

I decided to try RCA to XLR connectors, and remembered I had one of this cable :-

So I connected Van Damme RCA to RCA to one end (2 metres length), and Van Damme XLR to XLR (0.5metres) at the other end and then hooked them both up to the Flex and the Kali. No change, still noise. Then on a whim I decided to try the longer basic XLR to XLR cable I had at one end, This one here - Chord XLR to XLR 3 metres and added a Van Damme 0.25metres 75ohm coaxial RCA to RCA I had at the other end. Noise was gone, not even a hint of it remaining. Well, from one speaker - the other speaker still had the noise. So I bought another of the above RCA to XLR connector, and did the same and hey presto noise was gone from both speakers.

So I don't know if it was the fact it was a very short RCA cable that did the trick, or the fact it was a 75ohm coaxial cable. It was definitely one of those reasons. Like I said, the XLR to XLR cable at the other end was just a basic pro audio cable I picked up for a fiver that all pro audio shops sell in the UK.

 

[III-V]

What motherboard are you using? It may have an optical spdif built into the I/O area, or may have spdif headers you could plug into without needing a card.

Edit: sometimes there are dual purpose jacks that will take a mini-toslink for digital in addition to the normal analog connector for analog.

I do have an optical spdif, I just called it toslink. I remember calling them that years ago. The mobo is an Asus PRIME Z490-P

You can plug your Apple dongle into regular USB-A ports using simple adapters like this:
View attachment 329525
There is no downside.

So you don't have to find an isolator with Type-C output. Type-A will do just fine (if you decide to go down that route)

You can even find some A male to C female cables: https://steelseries.com/gaming-accessories/usb-c-usb-cable

I need to search my cable drawer and see if I can scrounge up one of those adapters. Possibly my wife has one as well.

I solved this very problem only 2 days ago. Bought some Kali LP-6v2, and kept hearing LOUD noises during video games, basically it was the GPU noise as it was kicking in. Buzzing noise rather than hard drive noises, it was still there outside games but quite under the radar. I tried everything cable wise, plugging all sockets into the same power strip, etc. The Kali has RCA in, XLR in, and a button to switch off the RCA ports incase of interference. The connection culprit was the USB port from the PC to the minidsp Flex. I tired RCA to XLR, and RCA to RCA (with Van Damme cables). I didn't try a pseudo balanced RCA to XLR cable (as suggested above), but that was next on my list. I was looking at one with Van Damme starquad cable, as the starquad itself rejects a small amout of noise as well as the pseudo balanced connection.

I decided to try RCA to XLR connectors, and remembered I had one of this cable :-

So I connected Van Damme RCA to RCA to one end (2 metres length), and Van Damme XLR to XLR (0.5metres) at the other end and then hooked them both up to the Flex and the Kali. No change, still noise. Then on a whim I decided to try the longer basic XLR to XLR cable I had at one end, This one here - Chord XLR to XLR 3 metres and added a Van Damme 0.25metres 75ohm coaxial RCA to RCA I had at the other end. Noise was gone, not even a hint of it remaining. Well, from one speaker - the other speaker still had the noise. So I bought another of the above RCA to XLR connector, and did the same and hey presto noise was gone from both speakers.

So I don't know if it was the fact it was a very short RCA cable that did the trick, or the fact it was a 75ohm coaxial cable. It was definitely one of those reasons. Like I said, the XLR to XLR cable at the other end was just a basic pro audio cable I picked up for a fiver that all pro audio shops sell in the UK.

Yeah, I am going to run to guitar center today and scoop up some cables. I will report back. Glad to hear you had some success here.

 

[BDWoody]

I do have an optical spdif, I just called it toslink. I remember calling them that years ago. The mobo is an Asus PRIME Z490-P

You did say that, I just didn't read closely enough. Sorry about that!

 

[staticV3]

Yeah, I am going to run to guitar center today and scoop up some cables. I will report back. Glad to hear you had some success here.

Keep in mind that not just any RCA->XLR cable will do the trick. You need one that's built specifically like in the schematics from earlier.

Many RCA->XLR cables just tie XLR1&3 together inside the XLR plug, which won't help you at all.

 

[III-V]

Keep in mind that not just any RCA->XLR cable will do the trick. You need one that's built specifically like in the schematics from earlier.

Many RCA->XLR cables just tie XLR1&3 together inside the XLR plug, which won't help you at all.

Well they only have one version for sale in-house and I do not see a schematic available. If they tie the pin together it defeats the entire purpose, why would they take an extra step to do that?

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[holbob]

I tired a basic RCA to XLR cable beforehand and it did nothing.