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First TT build. SL1200MK5 / 2M Blue / Phono? / Acrylic? and more...

Which Phono Preamp should I get? (You get 2 votes)

  • $130 refurb NAD 2pe

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • $150 refurb NAD PP4

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • $160 Muffsy PP-4 (build it stock)

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • $250 Vincent PHO-8

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • $300 MoFi StudioPhono

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    13
  • Poll closed .
OP
andrewskaterrr

andrewskaterrr

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I have the MP-110 and don't recommend it, unless for very easy to track grooves or noisy discs, IMHO the 540 is even better than Bronze....but better look more opinions in the "uncolored cartridge" link, there's even a digital take with the 540 ;-)
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...uncoloured-phono-cartridges.16020/post-622298
Ya I saw the linked article with the measurements, thanks! I saw multiple people liking it more than the Bronze, and one guy more than the Black (he owned both). The recording Helicopter posted sounds great to me, I wanted to get out of the junk $50 cartridges and get to the "good" level, then

UPDATE:
So I returned the 2M Blue and Ortofon SH-4, and will be ordering the VM540ML and I guess the AT-HS6BK Headshell for only $9 more. I really wish more companies made white headshells :mad:.
And is there any reason I shouldn't go with the better looking AT-HS6BK over the more SL1200-like AT-HS1?
 

Rock Rabbit

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Ya I saw the linked article with the measurements, thanks! I saw multiple people liking it more than the Bronze, and one guy more than the Black (he owned both). The recording Helicopter posted sounds great to me, I wanted to get out of the junk $50 cartridges and get to the "good" level, then

UPDATE:
So I returned the 2M Blue and Ortofon SH-4, and will be ordering the VM540ML and I guess the AT-HS6BK Headshell for only $9 more. I really wish more companies made white headshells :mad:.
And is there any reason I shouldn't go with the better looking AT-HS6BK over the more SL1200-like AT-HS1?
If the headshell is compatible with the overhang it seems there's no problem. I use the cheap SH4 in a PLX-1000, and tested the original Technics with 440 or 540 capsules and I don't hear or measure any difference, same tonearm resonance. Ortofon SH4 9.4 grs, Technics 5.5 grs
 
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andrewskaterrr

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UPDATE:
The Muffsy PP-4 MM Kit is on it's way. It's funny because originally my TT budget was $300 and I was going to use my old preamp lol. Now I'm spending $1500 altogether RIP :p

Still debating on which platter mat to get and find a nice weight. Thanks for the help guys!
 
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anmpr1

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It's not that, it's just that I like to do my research and try to get the best I can for my money, so I don't have to spend more money down the road fixing/upgrading what I previously bought. I upped my budget from $300 to over $1000 because I was hearing noticeable differences between tables and cartridges. My hope is that I can buy a TT once and be done forever, while having good sound.
I get that. And I wouldn't discourage anyone from playing around. That is what analog is good for. Just don't expect finality.

I laugh at my own experience. Belt, idler, or DD? Adding this mat instead of that one--cork, felt, sorbothane, rubber. Light record clamp or weight? Adjusting for one alignment over another. Adding silicon gunk damping, different cartridges, different headshells. Additional tonearm weights. Removing as much weight as is possible. Often winding up back where I started from. ;)
 
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andrewskaterrr

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Why the weight rather than a clamp?
I read that clamps can potentially be harder on the TT. I like the idea but also just want something easy that I can just drop on instead of screwing on. Here's a short video comparing the two.
 

somebodyelse

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My modified clothes peg was clearly insufficiently overengineered - near instant to apply/remove, and only as much force as was needed to try to flatten out a record applied via the other hand for the moment it took to attach. I stopped bothering much as without a dished platter it didn't seem to make much difference. Maybe the relatively few warped records weren't warped in the 'right' way?
 
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andrewskaterrr

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My modified clothes peg was clearly insufficiently overengineered - near instant to apply/remove, and only as much force as was needed to try to flatten out a record applied via the other hand for the moment it took to attach. I stopped bothering much as without a dished platter it didn't seem to make much difference. Maybe the relatively few warped records weren't warped in the 'right' way?
I have some old used records I picked up that are warped, but maybe I'll hold off until I get the table fully set up and see how it goes.
I'd like to see that "modified clothes peg" though lol
 
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andrewskaterrr

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I like my VM540ML for the $250 price and for a rock / pop / funk cart.

But I'm not going to be selling my MP-500 or MCs* any time soon. ;)

*except maybe the DL-103
Ya I think I was reading some posts you did about the VM540ML. Helped me choose to return the 2M Blue and get it. While I have the money for a MP-500, I don't really want to spend that much on a cart. I'm just not THAT into vinyl :p
 

watchnerd

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Ya I think I was reading some posts you did about the VM540ML. Helped me choose to return the 2M Blue and get it. While I have the money for a MP-500, I don't really want to spend that much on a cart. I'm just not THAT into vinyl :p

Most normal people shouldn't buy the MP-500. ;)

I happen to have 2, though, so....:oops:
 

somebodyelse

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I have some old used records I picked up that are warped, but maybe I'll hold off until I get the table fully set up and see how it goes.
I'd like to see that "modified clothes peg" though lol
It might still be in one of the boxes of bits somewhere. Take one wooden clothes peg - the sort with the spring where you squeeze the end to open the jaws, not the solid wooden sort with the saw cut down the middle. Cut the jaws short just below the spring. Remove the spring and put the peg in a clamp to hold the jaws shut, and drill down the length of the peg - this will be the bit that grips the spindle. I probably used 7mm - with 9/32" you might need to sand the inside flat faces a little to give it room to close further. Reassemble the peg and you have something that will grip the spindle quite well, and is quick and easy. You can chop the other end shorter if it's too long to fit under the lid.

If you're up to 3d printing it would be fairly easy to design something mechanically similar, but looking a lot more HiFi, and print it in black or white to match your theme.
 

BDWoody

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UPDATE:
Didn't want to spend $300 on a preamp but it seems like it's the best in the sub $300 category. It's funny because originally my TT budget was $300 and I was going to use my old preamp lol. Now I'm spending $1500 altogether RIP :p

Funny how that goes.

That said, it looks like you're putting together a system that should sound quite decent... After some required pain.
 

JeffS7444

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Regarding mats and clamps: In my tweakier audiophile days, everything seemed to make a sonic difference! But now I own a real time analyzer and for grins I experimented to see how much difference I'd see on the RTA with needle down in a stationary record groove as I tapped the platter and surface of the record.

And although the platter of my Audio Technica LP120USB is thinner and lighter than that of an SL1200, and it rings like a bell when struck, even the stock felt DJ mat dampened it surprisingly well. I also bought a rubber mat from Audio Technica, and it seemed to work about the same.

However, I ended up stacking one mat atop the other, because otherwise, the record was sitting too low for me to set tonearm height properly.

I did get the sense that vibration in the record died down faster if I applied a little bit of weight or clamping force to the label area, but it didn't seem to take much to make a difference.

The other thing I came to appreciate is the value of a subsonic filter! It's amazing how much low-frequency crud the stylus can pick up even when no music is playing. Subjectively, I thought it made for cleaner and punchier bass.
 
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andrewskaterrr

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It might still be in one of the boxes of bits somewhere. Take one wooden clothes peg - the sort with the spring where you squeeze the end to open the jaws, not the solid wooden sort with the saw cut down the middle. Cut the jaws short just below the spring. Remove the spring and put the peg in a clamp to hold the jaws shut, and drill down the length of the peg - this will be the bit that grips the spindle. I probably used 7mm - with 9/32" you might need to sand the inside flat faces a little to give it room to close further. Reassemble the peg and you have something that will grip the spindle quite well, and is quick and easy. You can chop the other end shorter if it's too long to fit under the lid.

If you're up to 3d printing it would be fairly easy to design something mechanically similar, but looking a lot more HiFi, and print it in black or white to match your theme.
Ah I see haha. My coworker has a 3D printer actually, but if I’m going to spend money on a weight, I could just get a clamp instead. They’re like the same price.
 
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andrewskaterrr

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Funny how that goes.

That said, it looks like you're putting together a system that should sound quite decent... After some required pain.
Thanks, that’s the goal, a Good enough” system that gets most of the quality but before dumping thousands for the last few percent of performance.
 
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andrewskaterrr

andrewskaterrr

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Regarding mats and clamps: In my tweakier audiophile days, everything seemed to make a sonic difference! But now I own a real time analyzer and for grins I experimented to see how much difference I'd see on the RTA with needle down in a stationary record groove as I tapped the platter and surface of the record.

And although the platter of my Audio Technica LP120USB is thinner and lighter than that of an SL1200, and it rings like a bell when struck, even the stock felt DJ mat dampened it surprisingly well. I also bought a rubber mat from Audio Technica, and it seemed to work about the same.

However, I ended up stacking one mat atop the other, because otherwise, the record was sitting too low for me to set tonearm height properly.

I did get the sense that vibration in the record died down faster if I applied a little bit of weight or clamping force to the label area, but it didn't seem to take much to make a difference.

The other thing I came to appreciate is the value of a subsonic filter! It's amazing how much low-frequency crud the stylus can pick up even when no music is playing. Subjectively, I thought it made for cleaner and punchier bass.
Ya I wish I had the tools to do tests like that. I figure that clamps/weights will make some difference but not a ton. I was trying to look up outer ring weights because that’s where a lot of the warp is on bad records, but that’s getting pretty extreme lol.
The subsonic filter is what I’m very worried about. Idk if the PP-4 has it built into the EQ or not, and if not, if I could add one in myself with a mod. Since the TT will be in the room with my 590s + Sub, I’m a worried about feedback.
 

somebodyelse

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I couldn't find the original so made another one - it only takes a few minutes.
clothespeg.jpg
 
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