ASR reccomended external crossovers?

[direstraitsfan98]

Hi guys I was thinking of maybe biamping my speaker using a tube amp to power the highs and I know I will need to get an external active crossover to make such a setup work right.

Do any members here have experience with external crossovers? I know Bryston and Pass Labs sell crossovers but they are both quite expensive and quite rare on the used market. Also, Bryston crossovers seem to differ from year to year.

If I wind up buying from the states, I may send whatever I buy to Amir to measure first.

 

[Eurasian]

Is a software solution an option?

 

[Wombat]

Behringer Loudspeaker Management System(CROSSOVER PLUS):

I have used a DCX2496 for some years and am very pleased with it.

(There is an analogue only in/out model DCX2496LE)


More basic crossovers: https://www.behringer.com/Categorie...ion:CREA:publicProduct:true##googtrans(en|en)

 

[Eurasian]

If you are going to use the built-in passive crossover networks, then all you need are signal splitters and amplifiers with equal gain -- I don't see the point, really.

On the other hand, if you are thinking of bypassing the passive crossovers, you have unlimited ability to play/experiment/req in software with Accurate, Audiolense and others.

 

[Eurasian]

If the 4367 is the speaker, please read this thread if you haven't already:. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...Vaw1nvLLgy7Qw90jdhphCN0k3&cshid=1589934861863

 

[Doodski]

How do I bypass the internal crossover of my speaker?

One goes into the cabinet and connects speaker wires directly onto the driver(s) and then those speaker wires go to their respective amplifier(s) and then use a analogue or preferably a digital processor with parametric EQ and crossover points. I've run a analogue Xover with a 3 way home system and it was a gas to use. Todays tech in DSP w/ active Xover should get you there very well. Some recommend using protection capacitors on the tweeter(s) to start.

 

[direstraitsfan98]

I don't think I want to bypass the internal crossover of my 4367. Kind of defeats the purpose of having it... might as well get a pair of M2 instead at that point.

 

[Kal Rubinson]

I would rather use an analog solution then try to fix it upstream in the digital domain. Keeping as much as possible in the analog realm just 'feels' like the right thing to do.

Hmmm. I think the other way 'round on that.

 

[DonH56]

miniDSP

 

[direstraitsfan98]

Hmmm. I think the other way 'round on that.

I'm quite young and inexperienced when it comes to this hobby. I'm not claiming either or is right or wrong, I was simply reporting back my overall gut feeling regarding the matter. Regardless, I will try both. I appreciate your input.

I was taking time to read my manual for my speakers and I realized something. Are the dual binding posts on the back not actually for bi amping? I was under the impression that removing the jumper connecting the two sets of terminals allows for one to connect to the woofer and tweeter separate. But reading the manual it seems to suggest that this is only a bi-wiring solution.



"BI-WIRE CONNECTION: The 4367 connection assembly has two sets of input terminals that are connected by jumper wires. The upper set of terminals is for high-frequency/ultrahigh-frequency drivers, and the lower set of terminals is for the woofer.
This arrangement allows you to bi-wire the speakers using a single stereo power amplifier or two stereo power amplifiers. Bi-wiring can offer sonic advantages and more flexibility in power-amplifier selection over a conventional single-wire connection.

BI-WIRE CONNECTION (continued):
If you’re bi-wiring with two stereo power amplifiers, connect the speakers according to the following illustration.
To bi-wire the 4367, first remove the terminal jumper wires as shown in the illustration."

Bi-wiring is not the same as bi-amping, right? Am I actually NOT bi-amping when I connect a second amp to the HF/tweeter input on the back of my speaker? If so, that would make this whole plan to get a second amp to power the highs extremely pointless, no? I find it difficult to understand how having a second amp hooked up to the HF is simply bi wiring. I don't think I understand how bi-amping and bi-wiring with this particular speaker functions exactly.

 

[mhardy6647]

Bi-wiring is not the same as bi-amping, right?

Right.
Biwiring -- still puzzles me.

 

[DonH56]

The picture shows bi-amping, not bi-wiring. Ditto the explanation.

 

[Doodski]

Bi-wiring increases the ***** factor and improves the commission structure. I've never had a reason to do bi-wiring. Bi-amping or maybe even tri-amping is the way to go though. Have full control over the speaker and the room and lotsa power in reserve for when ya need it or want it.

 

[direstraitsfan98]

The picture shows bi-amping, not bi-wiring.

That's what I thought too but the manual doesn't call it that, it calls it "bi-wiring with two amplifiers" so I don't know what to think now.

 

[DonH56]

That's what I thought too but the manual doesn't call it that, it calls it "bi-wiring with two amplifiers" so I don't know what to think now.

Think the manual is not using accepted terminology for bi-amping.

 

[direstraitsfan98]

Think the manual is not using accepted terminology for bi-amping.

Well that's that I guess. Stupid manual!

 

[Chrispy]

If you do use the passive horizontal bi-amping setup you could perhaps first take a peek at the crossover and see if the woofer is truly isolated or if it is actually indeed more bi-wiring? Maybe just contact JBL Synthesis?

 

[Neddy]

I'm using those woofers (ND1s) in my setup. I considered buying the 4367's LF crossover, but cost was prohibitive.
I ended up using a dBX (Harman) Venu360 for both crossover and room EQ (and MUCH more, like sub integration), basically a 'stereo bi-amped mains + mono sub' config.
(I cribbed the M2 DSP settings into the Venu, and it's basically flat to 20hz; pretty stunning.)
I just can't recommend it highly enough, even w/o it being tested by Amir...the specs are pretty impressive, FWIW.
(Harman tech support is also superbly helpful.)

But, if you have 4367s, then why not just "bi-amp" as per the instructions shown above????

The two linked threads, by the way, are the mains ones I used to 'inform' my choice of the ND-1 and Venu360.

 

[levimax]

This link explains thing well I think https://sound-au.com/bi-amp.htm

 

[watchnerd]

I don't think I want to bypass the internal crossover of my 4367. Kind of defeats the purpose of having it... might as well get a pair of M2 instead at that point.

So you're trying to bi-amp?

Isn't it already set up for this?

You just hook up one power amp to one input, and another to the other.