Blink Too Fast
Member
- Joined
- Jun 1, 2023
- Messages
- 43
- Likes
- 24
I’ve just hooked up a second PA-7 Plus, 1st in a horizontal biamp config, then today in a vertical config, to a pr. of Musician Knight 1’s. I purchased a second amp after remembering how a fella with Falcon Acoustics, who was previously w/ProAc, had highly recommended biamping the 1SC, of which I own. The single PA-7 was put to use with the Knight 1’s, a really well built 2way, cause that’s what’s in rotation. Very nice on its own, I was a bit startled by the improvement in the horizontal config. Damn, quite a bit more, there there. Increased vocal clarity, density and ummmppphhh as I listened to Dope Lemons newly released Miami all the way thru. I certainly wasn’t missing those little gold bar jumpers between the binding post. Stacked PA-7s seem just fine. Tiny stack that is. One silver, one black, cause that’s what they had and I got each for about $460. Today after knuckle heading around ‘cause I’m using two different speaker wires, I went ahead with a vertical e config. Amos Lee’s Chet Baker songbook is sounding dead quiet, focused and sublime. Very nice ease and flow, effortless. The Musician speakers are just eating up the additional pow. Not a 5-10% improvement, more like 20-25%. The Knight 1s are a beautifully voiced pair of speakers, tonally dense but airy beasties. Feed em well. The little ProAcs are sitting aside for now, waiting for me to remove their silver jumper wires, but that’ll wait. I was a bit hesitant purchasing a second PA-7 Plus almost on a lark, but it really is the way to go if your speakers are designed for such. Oh, both are being fed by the new SMSL PL-200 cd players outputs. Between the PA-7 dip switches and the SMSL menus I’m still sorting things thru, but this config is making a major case for biamping as the way to go. Highly recommended…
Biamping with the crossovers after the power amps (they are still present inside the speakers) does little.
With the gold bars present and a single PA7, the tweeters see half of one channel of the PA7, and the woofers see the other half.
With the gold bars removed and two PA7s, the tweeters see half of one channel a PA7 and the bass frequencies are turned to heat, and the woofers see half of one channel of the other PA7, and the treble frequencies are turned to heat.
Both amps are still producing the entire tonal range, including cross talk, and half of it is being turned to heat inside the speakers.
Horizontal or vertical makes no difference.
It would be more useful to leave the gold bars in place and use more powerful amps, for example by using the PA7s in bridged mode, and use one for the left and one for the right. Before rushing to do that, I have not seen that the PA7s are bridgeable.
Where bi-amping becomes truly useful is to remove the gold bars and to put crossovers before the amps. Crossovers before the power amps can be as simple as passive capacitor/inductor/resistor circuits; can be an active circuit; or can be a DSP such as a miniDSP.
By doing this, you can avoid the bass amp wasting effort on the treble frequencies, and can avoid the treble amp wasting effort on the bass frequencies.
The purist would also insist on disconnecting the crossovers inside the speakers. You may wish to leave a capacitor in series with the tweeter for protection.
Using e.g. a miniDSP, you can then connect the speaker drivers directly to the power amp, and use e.g. REW software to dial in a perfectly flat (or any other shape) speaker response to eliminate room modes or resonances. This would also eliminate any wasted power in the crossovers after the power amp.
The cheapest route for this might be a miniDSP 2x4 HD, a UMIK-1 mic, and the free REW software.
A more automated solution is the miniDSP DDRC-24, which is the 2x4 HD upgraded with internal Dirac software, plus an included UMIK-1.
A "nicer" route might be the miniDSP Flex, UMIK-1, and REW
The miniDSP Flex can also be upgraded with Dirac software.
Last edited: