What headphone(s) do you own ?

[TheGhostOfEugeneDebs]

The 323s/353x and the 252s are two of the few Stax energizers that the ‘Stax Mafia’ consider well designed, though underpowered for the Omega line, specially for the SR-007, which seems to be the less sensitive of all.

Not wanting to monopolize your attention, nevertheless I would like to ask you what else did you find missing on the L300 besides bass? Also, when you jumped to the SR-007 did you ever consider the L700 or the SR-009 as alternatives and what drove you to the SR-007 instead?

Please note that the L300 is the only Stax earphone that I have listened to, so everything I might say about the others is purely by having read about it. That is why your experience is particularly important to me. Thank you for your patience.

Yeah, the 252S in particular was very underpowered and just caused *awful* distortion. The 353X wasn't bad in that way and got plenty loud, but was significantly outclassed by the hypex amps through the ifi iesl. Just by comparison, I was able to easily do the A/B lossless audio tests found here: http://abx.digitalfeed.net/ whereas on the 353X I was getting no better than coin flip level accuracy in picking out the higher quality recording.

The L300 was fine, and I loved the interesting sound signature that being an electrostat provides. A psychoacoustic effect of a sort of ethereal sense that the sound is coming out of the air, like a mist. It just didn't do much more than have a cool presentation. It was bested in every technical sense by my HD800, which had the closest general presentation of my collection (though with a significantly wider soundstage, whereas the L300 was just tall). On the other hand, when I got the 007, it had that same psychoacoustic effect as an electrostat, but it was also way more resolving and had quite a bit of slam in the bass region. I did consider the L700 but dismissed it because I felt that it likely wouldn't have been enough of a change from the modded 300 based on FR charts I saw. I considered the 009S but when I checked it out at the store, found it actually didn't retain that "ethereal" sound signature as much, which made the 007 more appealing to me. I have never heard any of the 007s besides the mk2.5 that I have.

 

[lsferro]

Yeah, the 252S in particular was very underpowered and just caused *awful* distortion. The 353X wasn't bad in that way and got plenty loud, but was significantly outclassed by the hypex amps through the ifi iesl. Just by comparison, I was able to easily do the A/B lossless audio tests found here: http://abx.digitalfeed.net/ whereas on the 353X I was getting no better than coin flip level accuracy in picking out the higher quality recording.

The L300 was fine, and I loved the interesting sound signature that being an electrostat provides. A psychoacoustic effect of a sort of ethereal sense that the sound is coming out of the air, like a mist. It just didn't do much more than have a cool presentation. It was bested in every technical sense by my HD800, which had the closest general presentation of my collection (though with a significantly wider soundstage, whereas the L300 was just tall). On the other hand, when I got the 007, it had that same psychoacoustic effect as an electrostat, but it was also way more resolving and had quite a bit of slam in the bass region. I did consider the L700 but dismissed it because I felt that it likely wouldn't have been enough of a change from the modded 300 based on FR charts I saw. I considered the 009S but when I checked it out at the store, found it actually didn't retain that "ethereal" sound signature as much, which made the 007 more appealing to me. I have never heard any of the 007s besides the mk2.5 that I have.

Thanks again, TheGhostOfEugeneDebs. Enjoy your rigs.

 

[Cortes]

Yeah, the 252S in particular was very underpowered and just caused *awful* distortion. The 353X wasn't bad in that way and got plenty loud, but was significantly outclassed by the hypex amps through the ifi iesl. Just by comparison, I was able to easily do the A/B lossless audio tests found here: http://abx.digitalfeed.net/ whereas on the 353X I was getting no better than coin flip level accuracy in picking out the higher quality recording.

The L300 was fine, and I loved the interesting sound signature that being an electrostat provides. A psychoacoustic effect of a sort of ethereal sense that the sound is coming out of the air, like a mist. It just didn't do much more than have a cool presentation. It was bested in every technical sense by my HD800, which had the closest general presentation of my collection (though with a significantly wider soundstage, whereas the L300 was just tall). On the other hand, when I got the 007, it had that same psychoacoustic effect as an electrostat, but it was also way more resolving and had quite a bit of slam in the bass region. I did consider the L700 but dismissed it because I felt that it likely wouldn't have been enough of a change from the modded 300 based on FR charts I saw. I considered the 009S but when I checked it out at the store, found it actually didn't retain that "ethereal" sound signature as much, which made the 007 more appealing to me. I have never heard any of the 007s besides the mk2.5 that I have.

@TheGhostOfEugeneDebs,

my wallet is beginning to hate you!. I'm now pondering the idea of getting an iesl paired with some hypex. The sane thing is to sell the Stax rig.... I've some SRM-007MKII paired to a SR-727MKII with the Spritzer mod. The issue, apart from the money, is whether the iesl is a clear upgrade.

 

[virtua]

At the moment I currently have Sennheiser/Drop HD6xx, Beyerdynamic DT1990s and Hifiman Sundaras. I have a pair of HyperX Cloud II's which are the closed back I use for work. Might look into getting a pair of Grado SR325e or GH3's to finally cover everything I'm after and hopefully after that no more headphones lol

 

[TheGhostOfEugeneDebs]

@TheGhostOfEugeneDebs The issue, apart from the money, is whether the iesl is a clear upgrade.

That's the thing though, I only tried the lower end Stax amps. I have also wondered about how the higher end Stax and Mjolnir amps might fare against my current setup. I expect that at some point I'll get myself a KGSSHV Carbon when the curiosity and my finances happen to both cross paths at the same time. $5k for an amp that can drive only one headphone in my collection is a steep proposition though.

 

[SeaNNyT]

At the moment I currently have Sennheiser/Drop HD6xx, Beyerdynamic DT1990s and Hifiman Sundaras. I have a pair of HyperX Cloud II's which are the closed back I use for work. Might look into getting a pair of Grado SR325e or GH3's to finally cover everything I'm after and hopefully after that no more headphones lol

I have the DT 1990s. I was wondering how they would pair with the sundaras, as I was thinking of getting them.

 

[Davelemi]

Fostex T60RP Argon (ModHouse) with suede ZMF pads.

 

[virtua]

I have the DT 1990s. I was wondering how they would pair with the sundaras, as I was thinking of getting them.

I think they are on the same level when it comes to sound quality but they place emphasis on different strengths, however they are honestly not worlds different from each other. Technical detail and imaging is stronger on the DT1990s, but the soundstage is larger on the Sundaras, with the Sundaras the midrange is a lot more forward than with the DT1990s so on vocal tracks the vocals will be much more forward and engaging. However, that's not to say the quality of the midrange is worse on the DT1990s as I would say it's just as good, it's just not as forward. The DT1990 is definitely brighter but not hugely brighter to my ears (keep in mind that I do use the balanced pads though). Overall I would say the Sundara is a smoother headphone to listen to but still has great detail and impact. In contrast I think the DT1990 is incredibly strong technically, amongst the best if not the best I've heard in this regard, where the Sundara is down a couple steps from that - but what it lacks in that, it makes up for in the extra smoothness, soundstage and midrange presence. In terms of tonality I would say that between the HD6xx on one end (smooth), and the DT1990 on the other end (incredibly technical), the Sundara is going to be about 75% towards the DT1990.

However, with that being said, if you don't already have a pair of Sennheiser HD600/650/660s in your collection, I think those would be a more complementary headphone in contrast to the DT1990 if you were to have two headphones. But they are so wildly different that you'd have to hear those first to determine whether you'd like that flavour of headphone, whereas the Sundaras are a much safer bet if you were going to go in blind as they are much more similar.

Hope this helps in making your decision.

 

[lsferro]

@TheGhostOfEugeneDebs,

my wallet is beginning to hate you!. I'm now pondering the idea of getting an iesl paired with some hypex. The sane thing is to sell the Stax rig.... I've some SRM-007MKII paired to a SR-727MKII with the Spritzer mod. The issue, apart from the money, is whether the iesl is a clear upgrade.

Why do you want to change your 727MKII? Isn't the Spritzer mod supposed to correct its main issue?

The problem with electrostatic amplifiers/energizers is that we have very few or none independent measurements. Therefore, in our decisions we have to rely solely on subjective impressions and in some cases (Mjolnir, for instance) we can't even listen for ourselves before deciding.

I am lucky to have a Stax distributor within walking distance from home, so I was able to try the L300 with 252s vs 353x before purchase, but this is all the experience I have concerning electrostatic energizers. I didn't find any noticeable difference, so I kept the cheaper one.

I understand it's not technically easy and it could open a can of worms, but can we expect Amir to review some electrostatic amplifiers in the future?

 

[Cortes]

That's the thing though, I only tried the lower end Stax amps. I have also wondered about how the higher end Stax and Mjolnir amps might fare against my current setup. I expect that at some point I'll get myself a KGSSHV Carbon when the curiosity and my finances happen to both cross paths at the same time. $5k for an amp that can drive only one headphone in my collection is a steep proposition though.

I don't think there is much difference between the stax amps.

I've listened to the 727MKII, the 007tII, and the T8000 with the 007MKII and 009 at some Yodabshis. A perfect noisy environment to appreciate real differences. After hours... I reached the following conclusiones: I liked a bit more the 007tII over the 727MKII, and the differences between them and the expensive T8000 were really small, specially with the 007tII. For sure, after some seconds/minutes of losing deep focus I would forget what amp I was listenning to.

My only clear conclusion was to save my money (I already had my 727MKII) and urgently design a plan to rob a bank to purchase the 009, which is incredibly detailed and the best thing I've ever listened to.

 

[Cortes]

Why do you want to change your 727MKII? Isn't the Spritzer mod supposed to correct its main issue?

The problem with electrostatic amplifiers/energizers is that we have very few or none independent measurements. Therefore, in our decisions we have to rely solely on subjective impressions and in some cases (Mjolnir, for instance) we can't even listen for ourselves before deciding.

I am lucky to have a Stax distributor within walking distance from home, so I was able to try the L300 with 252s vs 353x before purchase, but this is all the experience I have concerning electrostatic energizers. I didn't find any noticeable difference, so I kept the cheaper one.

I understand it's not technically easy and it could open a can of worms, but can we expect Amir to review some electrostatic amplifiers in the future?

Yes, Amir's review here of some old stax amps is the only data point we have.

Spritzer mod-> you get less turning of the volume wheel to reach enough volume. However, some DACs, like my SU-8 generate a super high signal (is the output voltage??), and you don't need that. Yo get as well a less 'boomy' bass, althought I'm not sure whether this statament is true because after the mod you change the position of the volume wheel and really it might be all an ilusion.

I'd never buy Mjolnir or Gilmore amps until they prove with independent measurements and electric certifications that their gear is safe and worth the ridiculous price they charge.

 

[SeaNNyT]

Hope this helps in making your decision.

Thank you, it was insightful.

 

[lsferro]

My only clear conclusion was to save my money (...) and urgently design a plan to rob a bank to purchase the 009, which is incredibly detailed and the best thing I've ever listened to.

Do you need a partner? My share must include an energizer, of course!

 

[lsferro]

I'd never buy Mjolnir or Gilmore amps until they prove with independent measurements and electric certifications that their gear is safe and worth the ridiculous price they charge.

A bold statement for sure.

While I agree with the second part, I’m not aware of any accident with KG or Mjolnir amplifiers. Were there problems like that ever recorded?

 

[Cortes]

A bold statement for sure.

While I agree with the second part, I’m not aware of any accident with KG or Mjolnir amplifiers. Were there problems like that ever recorded?

Since we pay, better they take the charge of the proof. An official certificate is the way.

 

[lsferro]

Since we pay, better they take the charge of the proof. An official certificate is the way.

Fair enough.

 

[phrwn]

This week I've acquired the ifi Micro iDSD Signature and then today I got Fostex T50RP Mk3's. My ER4XR's sound pretty similar on the iFi and the laptop headphone out, but they sound about the same whatever I plug them into.

The Fostex, on the other hand, sound great. Surprisingly good in fact. I was going to wait and get them Argon'd directly, but thought I might as well try the stock versions while I wait for the ordering to open up again at Modhouse. I expected them to be pretty forgettable in the stock configuration, but, on the iFi Micro at least, they sound great. I'm almost worried I'll like them less after I get them modded.

Comfort isn't great, so it'll be worth getting the ZMF earpads and the headband. I'll also get the full Argon conversion with a balanced mod. Will update when I get them back probably around February or March. In the meantime they're way more fun than the Elegia's I had.

 

[Wolf]

I've been using a modded hybrid. My regular cans before were Sony MDR-V700DJ, but the leatherette on both the band and cushions rotted. I still have the guts hoping I can rejuvenate them down the road somehow.
This all started awhile ago (2 years now?), wanting to try the Pyle frames out as a sacrificial pair and utilize the Peerless 2"/50mm paper-coned driver units. Most are polyethylene, and that set these apart. The cheap Pyle frames allowed me to audition them and know that I liked what I heard.
https://www.parts-express.com/peerless-hpd-50n25pr00-32-2-headphone-driver-diaphragm--264-1510
The Pyle frames had issues with durability, and assembly inconsistencies that made them not a completely viable solution. Stock they were horrible.
https://www.parts-express.com/pyle-phpdj1-dj-turbo-headphones--248-4414
Then I sought out a better set of frames to continue with, and found the Talent SMH580 for dirt-cheap at the PE tent sale. I like the fit and feel of this 'AKG-esque' frame, and found it would be suitable and accepted 50mm drive units. Then- they were discontinued. Stock the bass was a little strong, and a little soft in the mids with polite treble.
https://www.parts-express.com/talent-smh580-semi-open-back-studio-headphones--233-350
And as you saw above if you clicked the link, PE also stopped carrying the Peerless drive units.
So, I was able to find replacements relatively easily/inexpensively....
Digikey is a source for Tymphany products, and they stock them:
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/peerless-by-tymphany/HPD-50N25PR00-32/6211129
(The image on the item's online-page is not the correct image, and clicking the spec-sheet document shows the correct one.)
I was able to find a set of Stellar-Labs HP580 cans from Newark that looked very familiar, though a bit more red color is utilized:
https://www.newark.com/stellar-labs/ho-5960/full-size-dj-headphones/dp/52W8580#
AND- they were on sale (still are even) for about $18! Even the internals match that of the older Talent frames.
There are other options that are similar, like PreSonus HD7, available from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/PreSonus-HD7...6EPFW27QH87&psc=1&refRID=YPPA0K0RJ6EPFW27QH87
...but their cost is too high for sure! $18 is a lot better, added the cost of the Peerless units making the total about $40.
So- recap:

• Stellar Labs HP580 or Talent SMH580 or PreSonus HD7 frames.
• Peerless 50mm paper drive units, model HPD-50N25PR00-32

1- I gently removed the cushions from the frames.
2- I removed the 4 tiny screws from the face of the driver mount to gain access, and that is really all it takes to get in there.
3- Just snip the wires close to the elements to remove the whole assembly to work on it. I would leave about 0.25" wire on the driver to verify polarity before soldering later, as this ended up being the same in position on the Peerless units.
4- Use a small screw driver to work at the adhesive around the stock driver unit, and it will come free with very little elbow grease.
5- Remove the sticker that faces the listener's ear. It's a 'quadrant of a donut' shape, and says "Monitoring Headphone DYNAMIC" on it. All this does is reduce the midband when in place. If done right and you prefer them in place, you can reinstall them. I liked them better without.
6- Install electrical tape across 3 of the 6 open vents facing the listener. This will lower the tuning and tighten up the bass. I covered the 3 holes toward the rear of my head when worn because my Sony headphones' bass holes were towards the front of my head. I figured they knew why they did that.
7- Glue Peerless driver elements in with E6000 (about 2-3 hr cure time), around the entire perimeter of the driver for a good seal and to prevent rattles.
8- Place batting in the cups. I used about 4" square, 1/2" thick pieces of wool batting, but Ultratouch, Dacron, etc could all be substituted. I even bet cotton balls would be a worthy method for this. You can't get it too thick, or the mounting plate won't reinstall in the cup.
9- Solder terminals after glue has dried, and reinstall plate screws and cushions.
10- Enjoy!
I have a yearning to try adhesive felt around the inner perimeter of the cups as it seems like there is a midbass spot that might be resonating slightly, but I am really splitting hairs. The cups are pretty thin material and could be the reason, but who wants a heavy headphone?
I find the top-end to be polite, and nothing is offensive in relative output. These are comfortable, detailed, and sound much better than $40 has a right to. About 10 people have tried them whom ears I tend to trust, and no one has disliked them.

 

[Iglo]

Wanted to try a different kind of headphone besides my HD660s. Picked up an Beyerdynamic DT 770 Pro (80 Ohm). First impressions, certainly different sound characteristic. Works well for Rock and EDM for me, for vocals the HD660s is in another league (but that's to be expected).

So far happy with the DT 770, will serve me well if I can't use the 660s (closed back is a bit more friendly when you have people around).

 

[312elements]

@phrwn Do you EQ your headphones? I know they're already gone, but it sounds like you've got more on the way. I didn't like the Elegia at first, but after EQ I was floored by how much better they sounded. I don't really EQ my other headphones, but IMO those ones needed it.