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- Feb 14, 2021
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I have owned an outlaw 7000 for a year and half now. No issues sounds great just a rock solid ampAny issues with the Outlaw amp. thinking of getting the 7000X.
I have owned an outlaw 7000 for a year and half now. No issues sounds great just a rock solid ampAny issues with the Outlaw amp. thinking of getting the 7000X.
So I ended up buying a JBL SDP-55 and a 2nd 7000X, and a 2220 monoblock for center that I haven't hooked up yet. Currently the 2x7000X are running 9 bed layer 5x JBL 590s, 2x580s, and 2x570s. Dropping the 570s and adding another set of 590s in whenever I get time. They have no problem running at louder than I can handle volumes. The noise floor is only audible for about 2ft with the 92dB 590s. My only issue with them is the blue light on the front that you can't turn off. I had to put electrical tape over them, which you can see in my pic. I had debated over the 7000X and the Monoprice 7x200w, but I didn't feel I needed the extra power. After doing power measurements, it doesn't appear that I need any more power. But my speakers are 6ohm. If they were 8ohm and I was in a larger room, MLP was further away, or my speakers were less efficient, I'd say get a little more power if you can afford it. The ToneWinner AD-7300, or Monoprice 7x200. They are much taller amps though, so they require more room than my Monoprice Rack XL can hold. ToneWinner is apparently made by the same manufacturer as Emotiva, and Monoprice is made by ATI. So in other words, the 7000X is great and would work for most people, but it depends on your setup too, and how OCD you are about power ratings.Any issues with the Outlaw amp. thinking of getting the 7000X.
No - They have separate models for the 110V and 230V areas.... It's an old style transformer - no auto-switching SMPS hereFor those who owns any of these two, are the power supply auto sensing? I can’t see in the manual or image that it has an switch between voltage. I am thinking of importing them if nothing happens here (any new products this late summer/autumn announcement as well as availability ) where I live and I can’t get any of them.
Too bad. thank you!No - They have separate models for the 110V and 230V areas.... It's an old style transformer - no auto-switching SMPS here
I would be very very surprised if it didn't!!! (the Integra certainly does!)Does the LX505 also have the Klipsch Optimized Mode?
What is a "Klipsch Optimized mode" does it turn the treble way down to keep it from killing you?Does the LX505 also have the Klipsch Optimized Mode?
I’ve had the RZ50, JBL SDP 58, and now the MARANTZ AV10.I'm looking for information from someone that owns either or both of RZ50 or LX505 or has experience with them. Is there a way to set up DIRAC without using a phone/tablet app? I've looked through the manuals and it appears that is the only way, but I want to be sure... I tend to keep my AV equipment for a really long time and have had too many problems with manufacturers neglecting/discontinuing apps over the years and loosing functionality as a result.
There are two ways, 1) using a phone/tablet app, and 2) using a PC/Mac App - if you want to use the AVR alone, the only option is MCACC/AccuEQ (which by the way, can be surprisingly good)I'm looking for information from someone that owns either or both of RZ50 or LX505 or has experience with them. Is there a way to set up DIRAC without using a phone/tablet app? I've looked through the manuals and it appears that is the only way, but I want to be sure... I tend to keep my AV equipment for a really long time and have had too many problems with manufacturers neglecting/discontinuing apps over the years and loosing functionality as a result.
I’ve had the RZ50, JBL SDP 58, and now the MARANTZ AV10.
I always use a laptop or PC, or MAC to run DIRAC for any processor, or AVR.
DIRAC is a separate entity. They make and update their Window, and MAC app that works on all DIRAC enabled products regularly.
I would go that route.
If using the PC/Mac app the mic, preferably a UMIK 1, or UMIK 2, you connect the mic to the PC, or laptop. The PC sends the calibration to the AVR.That is good news! Thanks for the reply.
Out of curiosity, when using DIRAC from a PC/Mac with the RZ50/LX505 does the measurement microphone plug into the AVR so the PC/Mac just pulls information from the AVR once measurements are complete?
Finally, I'm planning on using the RZ50 as a pre-amp only (I have a really bad room so I need the best correction I can get.)... Seeing that you have upgraded and are now using the AV10 is there anything about the RZ50 that was a deal breaker and resulted in you moving away from it?
On the rz50, when using the pc app, if using the puck mic, the mic is connected to the avr, the software will detect it and give you the option of selecting it. The avr automatically applies the mic calibration, if the puck mic is connected to the pc, no calibration is available, so the readings will be substantially off.That is good news! Thanks for the reply.
Out of curiosity, when using DIRAC from a PC/Mac with the RZ50/LX505 does the measurement microphone plug into the AVR so the PC/Mac just pulls information from the AVR once measurements are complete?
Finally, I'm planning on using the RZ50 as a pre-amp only (I have a really bad room so I need the best correction I can get.)... Seeing that you have upgraded and are now using the AV10 is there anything about the RZ50 that was a deal breaker and resulted in you moving away from it?
On the rz50, when using the pc app, if using the puck mic, the mic is connected to the avr, the software will detect it and give you the option of selecting it. The avr automatically applies the mic calibration, if the puck mic is connected to the pc, no calibration is available, so the readings will be substantially off.
That is an attractive price. Can you share a link to this price ? Thank youTempted to buy one of these Pioneer 505s for $750 even though I already have an RZ50 and too many other AVRs... lol, I probably shouldn't unless I can sell my two old Denons.