Show us your Cars

[pseudoid]

I've often thought of disconnecting all the antennae, even GPS.

...your phone and the crash data recorders?
How about the license plate readers and surveillance cameras equipped so?
How about the credit card you swiped for gas/recharge or ApplePay for snacks on the road?

Luddites (such as myself) are able to fly low and avoid such radar trails (w/o resorting to plate obfuscation).

 

[beefkabob]

We are tracked so many ways: phone, license plate, GPS on car, cellular on car, recorders on car, license plate cameras, and traffic cameras. Then, when I arrive at work and I log into my email. Into a website. Windows phones home.

I could power down the phone except for calls, run linux, host all my own services, obfuscate my plate, disable everything on the car, run a VPN, and still there would be some background this or that sending my location home. And in all that, I still need to be me. I cannot anonymously do my job.

 

[Sal1950]

If you sell cars with no features, none of them can break

And you could build a car/truck that the average working man can afford without a 10 year morgage

Precisely. So are the features important enough to suffer unreliability? I would rather have manual windows and I don't need an electric car bloot etc. Dacia do have an airconditioning option.

My only vehicle is a 2006 Ram pickup with manual windows, a 6 speed stick and A/C, that's about it and I love it that way.
Just finshed a full high end repaint, new rubber on doors and windows and few other details. The auto market today is a shit show with a 10' ipads in the dash to contol everything but most of my friends cant' figure out how to use. You can't tell one four door crapbox from the next, and the only thing to get excited about is bragging to your friends how much it costs. BLAH

 

[Jimster480]

For my wife, we moved from this:
View attachment 271031
To this:
View attachment 271032
Same platform, same interior just with 2.5l turbo engine.

Because it's ASR, let's share some beginner measurements as out of curiosity I've measured today the CX-30's system (which should be identical as the speakers and amp have the same part number) and did some listening tests and I have some impressions and data to share:
First of all, I haven't found a similar photo for the CX-30 but this is the speaker placement on Mazda3 hatchback and from my (limited experience) is one of the best systems in it's class.

I have a UMIK-1 calibrated microphone with which I've done the measurements.

Some impressions:

• To my ears, the system in CX-30 sounds a bit different compared with the one from Mazda3 and it could be due to different seat position and how speakers fit in the cabin
• like in the Mazda3, the system seems to be bass heavy (linear mode helps reduce a bit at lower volume as standard mode will pump the bass even more at lower volumes)
• there's a significant drop bellow 35-40Hz and the bass seems to be localizable as coming from the trunk; I'm not sure what is the crossover point but usually above 80Hz you can localize the source of the sound.
• big difference in sound quality between bluetooth and cable

This is the frequency response between the two cars.
View attachment 271035
Then I have done measurements at two different seat position and I haven't seen much of a difference (but there is one nevertheless):
View attachment 271036View attachment 271037
Not much difference:
View attachment 271034
I have compared my measurements with what savagegeese (Youtuber) measured on Mazda3 hatch and the same drop under ~35-40Hz is observed on his measurements as well.

I also have a '21 BMW 3-Series with Harman Kardon system and some notes about it:

• The HK has 16 speakers and the subwoofers are under the front seats
• Bose is more bass heavy while BMW's is a bit more balanced
• NVH also helps the sound in the BMW
• at Mazda you can hear that the subwoofer is in the trunk while in BMW everything seems more balanced (the subwoofers, as I mentioned above, are under the front seats)

Here's the measurement between these two:
View attachment 271033

This is one of my favorite vehicles out these days! I wanted a Mazda 3 2.5 Turbo for my wife and as a "family" gas friendly car. The AWD + power + good gas mileage is a really nice Combo. I have sat in these and the interiors are amazing and the sound systems do actually sound quite nice unlike most other vehicles.

Reliability is still one of my top criteria in any car buying purchase. My son was sold a Hyundai Santa Fe by a relative in December. In early March, the engine failed and it's now at the dealership awaiting a new one. Didn't know in December that Hyundai had a huge recall for faulty engines. Will never buy a Hyundai again.

Hyundai is just "good enough" everything is done to a standard that is cheap but good enough as a basic car. They have lots of recalls that have to get fixed over the lifetime of the vehicle. I have friends who have owned a couple of them over the past decade and each one of them had no less than 6 recalls over the last decade. I have only ever had 1 recall on 1 car I owned... although technically 2 if I count the airbag from my 97 Honda civic...

The first hit to my query "JD Power manufacturer reliability list" shows that Mazda scores a 174 in comparison to Lexus (w/a score of 133):
View attachment 271244
Next time, please warn us, so that we can fetch our bsprotectors...
I'll apologize if I am wrong.

This actual chart isn't exactly correct. Mazda has been the most reliable auto maker in a number of studies over the last years. Since this study considers the VOLUME of cars sold vs the reported issues.... Brands like Mazda or Infiniti that barely sell vehicles get penalized harshly for ANY ISSUE on ANY CAR. Where brands like Jeep, Ram, Dodge and Mini are all HORRIBLE in terms of reliability in general. With major problems affecting multiple models of each of those brands. Mind you on the side of Infiniti they had an issue with their electronic steering (optional in Q50 and Q60) and an issue with the CVT in their old QX60. This destroyed the relibaility of a brand that otherwise has no actual issues that impede driving and in general the cars are reliable for ~15+ years and hundreds of thousands of miles.
Mazda today is the only other car manufacturer that is really making extremely reliable vehicles year after year after year.... Mazda lost its reliability score due to an issue with the infotainment system that required a dealer update and a minor issue with their electric power steering pump on one model. Otherwise they have been extremely reliable and have no major faults even after as much as 150K Miles in the last 6 or so years.
Unfortunately in the last 3 years they brought some manufacturing to Mexico so some of the cars made in Mexico have QC issues (although funnily that isn't in the JDP survey you linked).
In terms of the brands that deserve to be at the top; I would say that Lexus is the only brand that is deserving of its top or near-top spot.

Chevy has had massive issues with engine failures on its trucks and performance vehicles in the recent years due to their stupid cylinder deactivation system. They have also had infotainment system issues on their Malibu and Cruze and Equinox models. Buick has the same system and the same issues in a couple of its models...
Mini makes cars with engines that routinely fail using terrible parts like VANOS systems that have finicky sensors and throw the cars timing out of wack and strand you.... my wifes best friend has one and its a complete disaster. Every year of Mini has been a disaster for more than a decade now with these Prince conglomerate garbage-tier engines and really finicky gearboxes....
Nissan is very hit and miss with issues from CVT's plaguing so many of their cars for literally a decade at this point. They have a new designed CVT as of 2020 but not every vehicle has had this new CVT although I think that now in 2023 they MIGHT have finally finished upgrading all their vehicles to the new CVT's.
Cadillac has had numerous infotainment system and driver sensor issues in the recent years as well... with them thinking you are in a collision when you aren't for example.

So moral of the story is; don't trust JD Power at all. Their testing and ranking system is corrupt/near useless at best and intentionally deceptive at worst.

 

[pseudoid]

My only vehicle is a 2006 Ram pickup with manual windows, a 6 speed stick and A/C, that's about it and I love it that way.
Just finshed a full high end repaint, new rubber on doors and windows and few other details.

"Knife? That's not a Knife!" [...pulling ear... attempting a PaulHogan line]

This one has no manual windows or even a manual transmission...
A/C? Heck, this has the 'organic' kind of air conditioner-ing.

... not yet, anyways!
Ask me Q3/2023, for updates.

 

[Blumlein 88]

"Knife? That's not a Knife!" [...pulling ear... attempting a PaulHogan line]
View attachment 271409
This one has no manual windows or even a manual transmission...
A/C? Heck, this has the 'organic' kind of air conditioner-ing.

... not yet, anyways!
Ask me Q3/2023, for updates.

Well people used to talk about 2/40 air conditioning. 2 windows down, and 40 mph. You'll have to install windows before you can have that.

 

[pseudoid]

manual windows

I really was not aware that any vehicle(s), in the consumer market, were sold with 'manual windows' since at least 1999.
Sometime around early 1980s, I seem to remember that the crank-windows in GM products had gone from Down=CCW (Up=CW) to the opposite (or vice versa).

I also recall that the high-beam control (sw) used to be conveniently located on left side of the driver's foot-well... even if you were driving a stick.
I miss the vent-windows and the functional (up/down) rear-seat windows, which no 2-door (coupe) cars offer anymore.

 

[Sal1950]

"Knife? That's not a Knife!" [...pulling ear... attempting a PaulHogan line]
View attachment 271409
This one has no manual windows or even a manual transmission...
A/C? Heck, this has the 'organic' kind of air conditioner-ing.

... not yet, anyways!
Ask me Q3/2023, for updates.

It gets terrific mileage and IS 100$ emissions free.

 

[EJ3]

My first and last Mazda was a MX-6; a true lemon if there ever was one. Damaged the brand for me and I have not considered another Mazda for 20 years, although I'm sure things are different now.

One of the Mazda's (MX5 Coupe, I think) looks a lot like the 1963-66 Chevrolet Cheetah (but is sluggish, comparatively). Here's a British guy giving his Cheetah a run up the driveway at Goodwood:

 

[beefkabob]

 

[EJ3]

I wonder how much of the reliability can be attributed to the manufacturer, driver, region driven.
Some 'reliability' data (most of which are automated) consider initial delivery problems in their listings (JDPower graph above), others (CR) include 'long-term' owner surveys (for after-sale reliability).

I have owned 9 different manufacturers' vehicles; going back to the 1970s.
I am either one lucky sob or I must know how to pamper my vehicles that have been amazingly trouble-free.
Accident-related and wear-prone parts (clutches/brakes) not counting.

My 72 Ford Mustang with a 351 (5.8 Liter) Cleveland (like getting a RUF 911) was always NOT pampered (driving style) but taken care of for maintenance made it over 300,000 miles before I sold it for a handsome profit. All of my cars (despite my driving style of using the power (accelerating quickly) and turning abilities (slowing down minimally) I have (but mostly within the law), have made more than 200,000 miles before I sold them. My current 2000 Nissan Frontier will hit 2000,000 before the end of this year, only paint is an issue (not rust). My 2012 Lexus will hit 55,000 and has an airbag light that won't go out(but the airbag reads as functioning properly when you code it, as well as indicates when it is on or off (if there is no passenger & it is off) and for 4 years now, won't give me my CD's back. Having been a mechanic for over 50 years, my experience says that all the spots except for the top 2 of the Consumer Reports Report (I subscribe to them and take them into consideration if it is not automotive or stereo gear that they are rating). But, using them as a guide for air conditioners also set me up for failure. So they are just another data point to consider. Or, based on your own empirical experience, take with a grain of salt.

 

[EJ3]

There is this:​

I normally only post things about a street legal 2 seat or more, somewhat practicle vehicle (like 2 people could go on a GT trip) vehicle but sometimes:​

1970 Chaparral 2J[edit] (By Jim Hill)​

The Chaparral 2J at the Goodwood Festival of Speed

The Chaparral 2J on display at the 2005 Monterey Historic Motorsport Festival
The most unusual Chaparral was the 2J. On the chassis' sides bottom edges were articulated plastic skirts that sealed against the ground (a technology that would later appear in Formula One). Two fans adapted from a military tank engine were housed at the rear, driven by a single two-stroke twin-cylinder engine.[5] The car had a "skirt" made of Lexan extending to the ground on both sides, laterally on the back of the car, and laterally from just aft of the front wheels. It was integrated with the suspension system so the bottom of the skirt would maintain a distance of one inch from the ground regardless of g-forces or anomalies in the road surface. The skirting produced a zone within which the fans could create a vacuum producing downforce on the order of 1.25 to 1.50 g when the car was fully loaded (fuel, oil, coolant). Tremendous gripping power and greater maneuverability at all speeds were produced. Since it created the same levels of low pressure under the car at all speeds, downforce did not decrease at lower speeds. With other aerodynamic devices, downforce decreased as the car slowed or reached too much of a slip angle

The 2J competed in the Can-Am series and qualified at least two seconds quicker than the next fastest car. It only ran in the 1970 season, after which it was outlawed by the Sports Car Club of America (SCCA). Although originally approved by the SCCA, they succumbed to pressure from other teams who argued that the fans constituted "movable aerodynamic devices". Sanctioning body FIA had banned such devices beginning with the 2E. There were also complaints of debris generated by the fans damaging the following cars. McLaren argued that if the 2J were not outlawed, the Can-Am series would be ruined by its dominance – something McLaren had been doing since 1967.[11]

Unusually, the Chaparral 2J only had three gears, being fitted in an automatic transmission, with the first gear providing 110kmh. The engine overall was capable of producing 680 bhp at 7,000 rpm, with the max speed of roughly 360kmh. The weight of the 2J was under 1800 pounds, or 816kg

 

[artishard116]

‘76 Datsun 280z with a single turbo RB30 block, 25 head, Nissan 350z 6-speed manual transmission, Ford 8.8 rear end, and some more fun stuff. Started with a bare metal shell. Still a long way to go, but a hell of a learning experience. Feel free to follow along.

 

[pseudoid]

My 2012 Lexus will hit 55,000 and has an airbag light

This error can be cleared but may require one of those 'service/tech level' OBD tools.

When I removed the passenger-seat, my SRS error lit up after detecting the disconnection.
An inexpensive resistive[?] plug/insert would have prevented my mistake of turning on the ignition, while the seat was unplugged.
Some people use these inserts for faulty safety system sensors.
The dealer wanted over $350 for resetting the error... due to mandatory diagnostic tests they 'must' perform for the whole system, before a reset.

 

[pseudoid]

...Here's a British guy giving his Cheetah a run up the driveway at Goodwood...

Generates <2000 pounds of down-force?
Faster than a McLaren 720S?
Faster than an F1 car?
Record @Pike's Peak (hill climb) for a few years?
It could only be the VW I.D. R.

 

[Sal1950]

Just came across this old photo a few days back, our 1957 Ford B/Gas drag racer.
Myself and 3 or 4 buddies spent every day after school in the garage working on this
hotrod and weekends we lived at the track.. We were just breaking into the 11 second bracket and thought we were the
baddest crew on the west side of Chicago. LOL

 

[Sal1950]

This error can be cleared but may require one of those 'service/tech level' OBD tools.

You can buy one on ebay for $50 and clear the code yourself.
It's easy-peasy.

 

[pseudoid]

You can buy one on ebay for $50 and clear the code yourself.
It's easy-peasy.

Not so!
For even cheaper, OBD-II dongles for phones w/a app also exist.
But most will not (and legally[?] NOT allowed to) reset vehicle "safety level" errors.
The one I used was a 'rental' selling at MannyMoe&Jack' for $249.

 

[Sal1950]

Not so!
For even cheaper, OBD-II dongles for phones w/a app also exist.
But most will not (and legally[?] NOT allowed to) reset vehicle "safety level" errors.
The one I used was a 'rental' selling at MannyMoe&Jack' for $249.

??? They have gone up a bit but this is the one I have it's $89.95 on ebay new, free shipping.
I've used it a number of times on my and my friends cars, it works very well for reading, and clearing codes
was a 10 minute job. Never got involved in a airbag issue, Worked fine on BS emission errors.

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[EJ3]

This error can be cleared but may require one of those 'service/tech level' OBD tools.

When I removed the passenger-seat, my SRS error lit up after detecting the disconnection.
An inexpensive resistive[?] plug/insert would have prevented my mistake of turning on the ignition, while the seat was unplugged.
Some people use these inserts for faulty safety system sensors.
The dealer wanted over $350 for resetting the error... due to mandatory diagnostic tests they 'must' perform for the whole system, before a reset.

All of the drivers side airbag related stuff is fine and is NOT setting off the light. It has been cleared, by me, by an independent mechanic who knows more than any mechanic at the Lexus dealers here ever will (he was a dealership trouble shooting mechanic for corporate Cadillac, sent to dealers with warranty issues all over the world and a teacher for automotive engineering). The airbags have been changed. In addition to that, just in case we missed something; the dash center has been out. By us and by the local dealership (whom, we have found, are not as good as us). It has been 'repaired' by the dealership. I was told that it would likely come back and sometimes be intermittent. It did. In testing it is a sensor/dash light issue. But, when the red dash light is on (almost all the time but some times it is not), if something or someone is in the passenger seat, the passenger seat airbag light indicates that it is on. The issue is in the computer sending a false signal to the dash light that is integrated with the stereo system on the inside of the center stack. For the $800 part and the labor pain in the ass of pulling the center stack for the 3rd time (and the fact that the airbag actually is, in fact, getting activated when something is in that seat, I am not going to fix it because a dash idiot light is on at most times. I have been an automotive/heavy truck technician for 51 years. No, I don't know it all (even about this one subject), but I do know how to find what the issue is when there is one. And have access to the tools required to do so. I have literally built many custom tractor trailers from a set of frame rails and axels into a $200,000 (in 1999-2000) hauling tractor, and some cars from a frame shell into a custom registered road going car. So I have a bit of expertise in this area. I may not know much else (hence, why I am on this site, to learn more), but I have a pretty good handle on things that are in/on/about vehicles that have wheels or tracks (ones that weigh 60 tons or less, anyway).