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Schiit Magni 3+ and Heresy Headphone Amp Reviews

T.M.Noble

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I just purchased a Magni 3+B off Amazon. Schiit has really come a long way with these compared to a Magni 2 Uber I have lying around. No more sharp metal edges and the rubber feet use holes stamped into the unit instead of stick-on glue. The rubber feet also have some of the best grip I've seen. My unit has the upgraded volume knob from IEMagni but it's the discrete transistor version. However, I was surprised that Magni 3+ runs much cooler than Magni 2 Uber.

@T.M.Noble Is Schiit planning to replace all black volume knobs with this extruded aluminum version?
We are constantly trying to improve our products not only from a performance standpoint but also aesthetically.

Current plans are to continue the standard shell knobs for our entry level products. However, you may see this new knob on future versions of our line up.
 

Theriverlethe

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We are constantly trying to improve our products not only from a performance standpoint but also aesthetically.

Current plans are to continue the standard shell knobs for our entry level products. However, you may see this new knob on future versions of our line up.

But isn't "performance" strongly correlated with the aesthetic? ;)
 

Jimster480

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But isn't "performance" strongly correlated with the aesthetic? ;)
lmao some people think that but I think this website proves otherwise.
How far we have come when Schiit has an account on this website? I remember being banned from Head-Fi because of Schiit after challenging their products poor performance just years ago. Sharing results from this website was considered "spreading misinformation" and now here they are....
 

Theriverlethe

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lmao some people think that but I think this website proves otherwise.
I meant subjective “performance” - ie., a product that looks and feels good is more likely to evoke a positive response. I suspect Amir has successfully transmuted this phenomena into pretty graphs.
 

Garlucky

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I have a question.
Will running an amp with the volume pot turned up to the maximum, cause increased distortion or clipping from the amp?
Or does it depend on the particular amp?
 

solderdude

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No, unless you put a high enough input level in it and the amp set to a specific gain so that the output clips.
In the datasheet you can find those values. These are always measured with the volume control set in the maximum position.
 

Garlucky

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No, unless you put a high enough input level in it and the amp set to a specific gain so that the output clips.
In the datasheet you can find those values. These are always measured with the volume control set in the maximum position.
Thanks, I appreciate it
 

bravomail

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it's insane how many people you will run into that say magni 3+ "sounds better"
I'd even say - Magni 2 sounds better. :) Ignore my following passage as it is purely anecdotal, sighted, subjective etc:
I own Magni 2 and I preferred its high gain mode for my relatively easy to drive AKG K7xx. There is just something to it - deep darkness of "no music" pauses and clean rich music afterwards. Might be something to do with slight noise, just close enough to hearing threshold. Magni 2 r euphoric - but keep in mind, it was also my first entry into "Hi-Fi".
I also own Magni 3+ - it has no such quality. It also sounds "different from Magni 2". And I find Topping L30 lifeless analytical "insert other diabolical subjectivist adjective here" :)
It's just amazing what our brain does to us!
 

Xenio

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I have a magni 3+¨and HD 600 /650

I have some problems with it. First the high gain mode straight up doesn't work. Second when turning the volume knob I get some crackling.

I may want to change it in the near future, because of that and possibly because I kind of want new headphones.

With my HD 600s I feel like the power output is a bit low in low gain mode sometimes. Especially with the EQ and some tracks (on youtube for example, yeah I know it's not the best place to listen to music but whatever). I have the volume know at at least 70%

So I'd want to know how to calculate that. Headphones sensitivity measurement are made at 94dBSPL and "how much voltage for that". Amp measurement are made at a specific impedance, the good thing is that the HD 600s are 300 ohms, which is the value amps are measured at.

From what I see on wikipedia, 1 W = 1 V²/Ohms
Knowing that the HD 600 has a sensivity of 327mV/94dBSPL and 300 Ohms it means that it requires 3.5x10^(-4)W .... ? The magni 3+ has max 11mW in low gain ...? Am I listening to things THAAAT loud ?
 

solderdude

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I have some problems with it. First the high gain mode straight up doesn't work. Second when turning the volume knob I get some crackling.

Contact Schiit support when still under warranty.

With my HD 600s I feel like the power output is a bit low in low gain mode sometimes. Especially with the EQ and some tracks (on youtube for example, yeah I know it's not the best place to listen to music but whatever). I have the volume know at at least 70%

That's why the high gain mode exists.


The magni 3+ has max 11mW in low gain ...?
Yes, 11mW peak SPL in 300 ohm at low gain using a DAC that has 2V FSD with the volume control at max and source without EQ and at 100% output.
This means that average levels are most likely 10dB below the peaks so around 1mW average SPL = around 100dB = quite loud already.
 

Oscarilbo

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Hi guys. New in this forum.

I've had the Schiit Magni 3 for some years. I just ordered a Modi 3+ and I'm considering upgrading the Magni 3 for any of the new Magnis; Magni 3+ or Heresy. Now, I have the Sennheiser 6XX headphones and the 1MORE Quad IEs, both are my main headphones right now. My source music is Film Scores Orchestral music on CD (no computer here).

Since I already have the Magni 3 (not plus) would I notice a difference with any the 3+ or the Heresy? If so which one do recommend ?

Thank you so much in advance!
 

xrk971

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Hi Folks,

First post here…

Crackling sounds on volume pot may be perfectly normal on some amps that have a BJT input stage. The crackle comes from the fact that the BJT draws a finite (non zero) amount of current through the base of the transistor (that’s how bipolar junction transistors work). This current passes through an imperfectly smooth pot track / wiper and generates a small voltage which you hear as crackle. On amps that have a JFET or MOSFET (field effect) transistor input stages in general, will have less to no volume pot crackle because the gate of a FET draws no current. Another way to prevent crackle is to have a capacitor coupled input stage. But caps are, gasp, anathema for some people who insist on all DC coupled amp designs. Perfectly excellent amp designs often use cap coupling. I personally like JFET input stages for this reason. This applies to opamps as well as some are FET and some are BJT input.

The OPA1688 probably has FET inputs as input bias current is only 10pA. The discrete Magni 3 probably uses BJTs as the input stage, thereby may exhibit more scratchiness and crackle when adjusting pot volume.

It’s quite tough to best modern opamps. I built a parallel OPA1688 headphone amp a while back. Along with 8x parallel OPA1622 (that could drive 8ohm loads to about 10w). These headphone amps really sounded clean and clear. The bass drive was impressive. More recently I have heard a 4x parallel OPA1656 (100mA each) designed by Jhofland on DIYA and that was really something special.

Cheers,
XRK
 
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Xenio

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Contact Schiit support when still under warranty.



That's why the high gain mode exists.



Yes, 11mW peak SPL in 300 ohm at low gain using a DAC that has 2V FSD with the volume control at max and source without EQ and at 100% output.
This means that average levels are most likely 10dB below the peaks so around 1mW average SPL = around 100dB = quite loud already.
Yeah you're right I should check the warranty. But since my Gf needs an amp and the low gain will be enough for her I'm a bit lazy haha

So basically any good modern amp (L30 for example) will be powerful enough for virtually any headphones right ?
 

solderdude

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Yes, almost any modern amp that can provide around 1W in 32 ohm and 200mW in 300ohm will do fine provided enough gain is available.

Before buying run your choice by 'us' before buying. Some amps are crap.
 

Xenio

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Oh well, I kind of understood that if I go topping I can't be wrong so it will be fine haha
A topping L30 will be good enough for every headphones besides stax from what you said
 

xrk971

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You can’t generalize the term “modern amp” to be able to drive a certain power and impedance. You have to look at the specs, topology, what is the output stage used (MOSFET or BJT) what are the oltage rails.

There are many “modern amps” that won’t put out 1W into 32ohms. That’s a lot of power that most headphones simply have no need for. Is it Class AB, Class A, push pull Class A or single ended Class A, etc? Some single ended Class A headphone amps won’t put out more than 100mW into 32ohms. Most opamps won’t put out more than +/-18v. There are special ones that do +/-50v but lower current. Higher power amps tend to be discrete output for this reason - you can’t get opamps that make more 36Vpp swing.

To estimate max output power, we can always use Ohm’s law and stated rail voltages to estimate the max power assuming there is no current limit. For example, the Magni Heresy PSU is +/-17v or 34vpp. Divide that by 2.83 to get the max RMS voltage of 12.0Vrms. According to Ohm’s law, power is equal to voltage squared / resistance or impedance. So power = 12Vrms ^ 2 / 32ohms = 4.5w max. So that’s the case with unlimited current and the max you can hope to get.

The current limit is imposed by either the PSU or the output stage. Looking at the OPA1688 we see it is capable of +/-75mA. Since there are 4 dual opamps that is 4x 150mA peakor 600mA max current. We divide by 2.83 for 0.21Arms. Power in terms of current and impedance is current ^2 x R. We now get 1.4wrms in the current limit.

Of the two values 4.5Wrms and 1.4wrms, the latter is the limiting factor.

Finally, we need to look at wall power supply. Can it provide 1.4Wrms? I don’t have one in front of me but I recall it was a pretty substantial one capable of more than that. Keep in mind that these are the absolute rail to rail assumptions and actual output may be a bit less.

I hope that was helpful and one can use this approach to calculate Class AB type amp max power. For Class A push pull that transitions to Class B it is also valid. but cannot use this for SE Class A amps.

Cheers,
XRK
 

Onelyd

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Hey guys,

Could someone please help me understand if schiit magni3+/mode stack will be enough to power and get the best sound from my headphones.
I'm new to audio realm, but i wanted to test my ears with better music and sound. So i bought the Hifiman 400se and according to this calculator ( hear.audio/2019/06/01/headphone-power-calculator/ ) i should get an amp that can achieve these metrics:

Required power (milliwatts): 794
Required voltage (volts RMS): 4.46
Required current (millamps RMS): 178.3

According to Magni specs i know that it can provide: Maximum Power, 32 ohms: 2.4W RMS per channel

But i don't know about the other two metrics:
Required voltage (volts RMS): 4.46
Required current (millamps RMS): 178.3

Can Magni achieve these requirements?

Thanks in advance fr any help!!!
 
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Oscarilbo

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One quick question guys.
I just ordered the AKG K702, would you recommend running the Heresy on Low gain with those? For now I've found low gain its my preferred gain with my current headphones; HD 598, HD 6XX and ATH A900X.

Thanks so much in advance
 
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