The "Cheapaudioman" YT channel ... The video linked above, in fact.Booted from where?
15 Hz is exceptionally high, it should be 1.6 Hz or so, and indicates something was in need of repair from the get-go. It's possible the the opamp was bad, but it's even more possible (IME) that the fiddling around to change things, especially if you soldered or desoldered, may have inadvertently fixed things. The f3 is not a function of opamp type.
Rule 1 of modification is to verify proper operation BEFORE trying the mod.
Also, separation is not a worry. At very high frequencies it might degrade from waaaaaaaaay past anything audible to waaaaay past anything audible. The practice you see is very common.
But every generic audio opamp shuld work in this application without making the changes you describe.
Your opinion is only valuable for you if not backed up with clear technical data and properly conducted subjective testing.So my advice might be useless for you, but not for others.
"Sound clearer", you might as well have written, the veil was lifted.Aiyima a04 with LM4562 is more dynamic, goes deeper in the bass and sound clearer.
I would get in there and start resoldering connections and examine traces under magnification. The mechanics of flexing can temporarily fix a poor solder joint or hairline crack but it won't stay that way. Your starting point was a literally broken unit, so don't try drawing any conclusions from the opamp change.As a service tech I would 100% agree with you ... BEFORE you fix it, know what you are fixing. But I was playing "audiophile" at the moment and just wanted to be able to honestly say "Nope... no difference here"... but of course that's not what happened.
The chips are in sockets, designed to be flipped by the manufacturer... so it wasn't like I cleared a solder bridge or fixed a cold joint, it was designed to be a zero skill swap ... (And yes I have a history of accidental repairs, as does any tech.)
I did test the 5532s I pulled out... They seem to be okay. But that doesn't mean they were okay in that circuit, as you point out.
I would get in there and start resoldering connections and examine traces under magnification. The mechanics of flexing can temporarily fix a poor solder joint or hairline crack but it won't stay that way. Your starting point was a literally broken unit, so don't try drawing any conclusions from the opamp change.
Opamp rolling is entirely real, but depends on the circuit its in. Used as a unity gain buffer, as long as the chosen part is suitable all you'll notice as different is the relative noise levels, which with any decent part will be way down there.
So basically what you are saying is if you break the design by swapping the manufacturers carefully selected opamp for one that doesn't work in that design, then you can hear it.Opamp rolling is entirely real, but depends on the circuit its in. Used as a unity gain buffer, as long as the chosen part is suitable all you'll notice as different is the relative noise levels, which with any decent part will be way down there.
We're you to swap between bipolar and jfet input types in a MC phonostage front end youd notice a hell of a difference, as one type is suitable and other simply isnt. Even swapping between jfet input types in certain MC stages, say opa1611 vs a maxim427 is clearly audible as about a 7db noise penalty.
Likewise if you selected a part that wasn't unity gain stable in the buffer you'd notice it.
As ever generalisations obscure the truth. You have to know the parts, their specs and the circuit conditions they'll be used in
Yeah, I love these counter examples that talk about breaking the design, and then you hear the difference.So basically what you are saying is if you break the design by swapping the manufacturers carefully selected opamp for one that doesn't work in that design, then you can hear it.
This is not a big surprise.
Those still exist?Likewise if you selected a part that wasn't unity gain stable in the buffer you'd notice it.
This opens up the brand new hype of socket rolling.I just did that ... And yes you are correct, my starting point was a defective amp. My test turned out to be a repair!
It took a while but I finally did figure it out. It was the #$%@ crappy sockets! I used the old trick of probing the sockets with a needle to ensure the pins were connecting properly and there were a couple of spots where even the slightest touch would change the behaviour... so I replaced them with the high quality sockets I use with my other projects .... so far so good... with both NE5532s and RC4558s from my stock... not the originals from the amp (I've now trashed them).