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NAD M33 Streaming Amplifier Review

Which output makes this audible (L/R/Mono/Stereo)?
I believe this is a feature only useful for multiple bluos devices if you have 2 devices in your room you could configure one to play the left stereo channel and the other one to play the right channel.
 
I had the same problem with my subs (JLA f112v2s). They would not wake up unless med/high volume selected. Ended up returning the M33, had to pay shipping and 15% restocking fee although this is clearly a defect in the design of the M33. So sub users caveat emptor.
I just purchased a Perlisten D15 sub and noticed in the app that the input sensitivity could be adjusted. Hallelujah!
Joe go you like the D15 I am salivating over it!
 
I'm having a weird issue and want to check the fellow M33 owners if they occasionally have the same:

Sometimes, when I turn on the device, the m33 masters logo is not showing, but the screen instantly shows the input I have previously used before...

When I restart the amp through bluos or do a factory reset, it shows the logo again..

Any tips? I think this behavior started occurring with the last bluos update...

And now I'm consented the startup time is linger than before, somewhat 30 seconds. What are yours?
 
Is there a comparison between M33 and M23 bridged and in bi-amp configuration? If say a bi-am configuration is used, what should each be powering? Should M33 power speakers HF and M23 the LF section or the other way around? I have the M33 and contemplating buying one M23 amp. My speakers to bi-amp are Wharfedale Elysian 4.
 
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Sometimes, when I turn on the device, the m33 masters logo is not showing, but the screen instantly shows the input I have previously used before...
Have you activated the LAN/BluOS standby?
 
That also depends on the speaker. I would just try it out. NAD itself advises the bridge mode.
The Elysian hardly need more power than what M33 can master at 92dB 8 Ohms sensitivity. However, I'm sure there will be some improvement in sound quality with M23 in the system. My cunning plan is to start using those two boxes and then replace M33 with M66 later this year, with the missus not noticing anything sus after the upgrade! Bi-amping require an additional pair of expensive speaker cables and I'd rather not purchase it if bridging is the better way.
 
Have you activated the LAN/BluOS standby?
I did, is that the "issue"?

I thought of a "light sleep" vs a "deep sleep", because the m33 always stays in standby mode.

When turnjng on, the screen stays black for a little longer and then shows the logo, you can clearly hear the "tick" sound, signaling it's turning on all components.

In the case with the logo not showing, the "tick" is not there, suggesting it already knows the components at on? So maybe it's a thing they implemented with the recent Bluos update?
 
Well, this is quite infuriating! There's absolutely no way to get digital out of M33? No balanced out is bad enough already. Looking at buying a pair of D&D 8C speakers and it seems there's no way to connect them to M33 without https://orchardaudio.com/shop/stereo-rca-to-xlr-converter/ or some BT contraption. I tried the USB port and while my Fiio M17 DAP indicates that it is connected to the max PCM rate, no sound comes out. Going from USB to a Matrix Audio X-SPDIF2 DDC and from there with coaxial to M17 does not work either. Both DDC and direct to PC with the same cable working fine. Will have to sell the bastard and buy a loungeroom friendly Eversolo DMP-A8 or a MiniDSP SHD Studio that won't look that flash but will do the job. All I need is a bloody hardware volume control for the missus and to connect my TV to the speakers (ideally AES/EBU or analog XLR). How hard can it be, NAD? Hm?

PS: my TV (a Samsung The Frame, for now) has USB audio output, meaning I can connect the speakers via my X-SPDIF 2 DDC - AES/EBU. Job done. System will be down to a couple of speakers, box count - zero!
 
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I don't need it, speakers can stream Roon and Spotify by themselves. They can also do room correction, all bells and whistles. The only weak spot was lack of a physical remote control for volume but that's now sorted with the DDC.
 
Did anyone try the IR IN input on the back of the M33 or other NAD units? I just bought a Russound IR repeater (similar to a Xantech, I believe), but I can’t get it to work. I tried to connect with both mono and stereo mini jack cables (3.5 mm).

Here is a link to the repeater I’m talking about.
 
It could be that the frequency range is not sufficient. Ask the NAD support team.
Yes, could be something like that. I will start the rounds with unravelling this with NAD support, etc., but thought I’d start here. If anyone should have experience with IR repeaters, please share!
 
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