NAD M33 Streaming Amplifier Review

[steveoat87]

I guess that's all to it:
Link

Under Source Setup on the M33 you don't see any other HDMI entries either?

What's weird is that I see all the HDMI entries under source setup. I just don't see any picture on my TV screen. I have tried different HDMI inputs and different HDMI cables on my TV, but nothing seems to work. NO such problem on my C658. Makes me reluctant to purchase any more NAD products in the future considering their lack of support.

 

[pogo]

And under sources (not source setup) are the inputs also selectable?

 

[steveoat87]

I guess that's all to it:
Link

Under Source Setup on the M33 you don't see any other HDMI entries either?

This is what I see under source set up (please see attached). Does this look correct?

 

[pogo]

Yes, that looks good. I would now tend to think that there is a connection problem.

 

[steveoat87]

Yes, that looks good. I would now tend to think that there is a connection problem.

What else might I try to fix this? Does it matter that I also have earc connected?

 

[pogo]

Could be, but see also here:
Link

 

[steveoat87]

Could be, but see also here:
Link

I tried several cables, all certified but still no luck. And each of the TV HDMI inputs work as I tried them with other sources. This is truly a puzzle, which I am not happy about.

 

[steveoat87]

I tried several cables, all certified but still no luck. And each of the TV HDMI inputs work as I tried them with other sources. This is truly a puzzle, which I am not happy about.

Just to make sure there was nothing unique to the Sony TV I was using, I also tried this on a Samsung TV. Same problem --doesn't work. I wish NAD would discuss this a bit more since there is clearly something odd going on here.

 

[pogo]

Can you take a picture of the hdmi cables connected to the M33?

 

[pogo]

Did you install both modules in parallel? See also here:
Link

My HDM-2 is installed in the small slot.

 

[steveoat87]

See my post here:
Link

Alternative for the HDMI input:
Link

Pogo, Given the problems I have been having with the HDMI 2 module, I'm tempted to go with something like your recommended

VAX04101 HDMI eARC Pass Switch 4x1 for Soundbar. However, I see that this company does not have a distributor in the USA. Are you familiar with other such devices that may be available in the USA?​

 

[pogo]

Sadly, no.

 

[steveoat87]

Did you install both modules in parallel? See also here:
Link

My HDM-2 is installed in the small slot.

I have both modules installed. I have the new backplate adapter for the HDMI-2. Is it still your understanding that you can't use both modules at the same time?

 

[steveoat87]

I have both modules installed. I have the new backplate adapter for the HDMI-2. Is it still your understanding that you can't use both modules at the same time?

I just took out the USB module and tried with just the HDMI-2 installed. No luck. Puzzled by this.

 

[pogo]

Is it still your understanding that you can't use both modules at the same time?

According to the German NAD support last year you can either only use the USB module or the HDMI module in the M33.
But if there is now also a new backplate adapter, something has probably changed in the meantime. How do you get the adapter and what does it look like?

 

[fcracer]

What else might I try to fix this? Does it matter that I also have earc connected?

I would highly recommend holding NAD accountable to provide you support for this not inexpensive Masters series amplifier. Suggest being polite but firm in progressing up their corporate ladder until they resolve your issue.

If my M33 has this kind of issue, I expect NAD to stand behind it and provide answers. My experience with NAD in China has been exemplary and I hope that your country’s representative is equally supportive. If not, contact NAD in Canada and escalate as required.

 

[pogo]

With this shown DL target curve you lose at least 6dB volume at the end. Either drag the DL target curve graphically upwards or increase the values in the target curve file by approx. 6dB. You don't have to give away the 10dB that DL allows itself in the M33

Here are the differences in performance when dBs are given away: Link

The new DL desktop version seems to be quite usable.
And here's my tip regarding the -10dB limit with DL = on for users for whom the result is not sufficient in terms of volume:

1) Adjust the auto target curve to your taste, an example here:

2) Save as target curve under DL.
3) Open the target curve with a text editor and adjust it to the maximum, i.e. add the missing offset in the amplitude up to max. 12dB. Here is the result of the new upward shifted target curve as an example with an increase of the overall volume by 6.5dB:

And don't be surprised that at e.g. -30dB and DL = on in contrast to DL = off everything now sounds much louder

 

[Calou]

The new DL desktop version seems to be quite usable.
And here's my tip regarding the -10dB limit with DL = on for users for whom the result is not sufficient in terms of volume:

1) Adjust the auto target curve to your taste, an example here:
View attachment 199208

2) Save as target curve under DL.
3) Open the target curve with a text editor and adjust it to the maximum, i.e. add the missing offset in the amplitude up to max. 12dB. Here is the result of the new upward shifted target curve as an example with an increase of the overall volume by 6.5dB:
View attachment 199210

And don't be surprised that at e.g. -30dB and DL = on in contrast to DL = off everything now sounds much louder

Thank you for the tip Pogo.

I've tried the automatic correction curve and it is already yielding better results in my case, it shows what I was doing wrong in the bass correction. I had a +6 dB target curve in the bass based on the louder left speaker and the +6 dB boosted the bass response of the quieter right speaker too much (next to a window). The automatic curve advised a max boost of +3 dB based on the right speaker response and lowered the left speaker to match, therefore doing a better job. How could I know?

 

[pogo]

Sound improvement possible with M23: Link

 

[mattyjman]

Ok, so finally got my speaker back... also downloaded the newest version of DL and it greatly resolved the narrow and thin sound that came after calibration from my first efforts!! So excited about that as I never felt like the DL calibration other people were hearing was not what I was getting. But... I am now getting an image that is highly skewed left. Wondering if any of y'all had encountered this sort of issue and can help.

My setup includes compromise made between me and my better half, and my right speaker is pushed into a corner boundary, while the left speaker does not have a similar corner, and opens into the rest of my house (open concept). When calibrating for levels, I found the right sub and speaker had higher output in volume. The first time I ran DL, I didn't notice levels were off between L&R speakers and ended up with highly skewed left image.

The second time I ran DL, I realized the levels were off, so I first adjusted the DL sliders on the output calibration page to have all speakers playing at the same levels. After running the calibration, the image was still skewed left. At that point I ran out of time so put things up to explore further later. But I'm wondering what's causing the left image skew. I have to assume it's the boundaries around the right speaker that the left speaker doesn't have - but I don't know how to resolve. My next possible solution is to further decrease the output of the right channel so that I start running DL with lower volume (as opposed to volume parity) on the right channel to see if that will net out in a center biased image.

Any other thoughts, suggestions?

If any of this is needed, using UMIK1 mic, Macbook pro, Aria 936 and pair of SB3000 subs.

EDIT: I also didn't have this issue previously with the included mic that comes with M33. I had that pointed up at ceiling. With the UMIK1, using this pointing directly between the speakers (horizontal).
EDIT2: Looking at the impulse response, looks like the system is adding a ton of delay of the right channel to get it to line up with the left. I'm a noob at the measurements, so I'm curious 1.) why are they so off from each other? and 2.) how does one correct this? It doesn't look like there is a way to adjust this correction?