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In need of a builder...

Agree on the tweeter, but why the 4" as well?
KEF concentric drivers are a tweeter and mid combined... if you add another woofer/mid you forgo the directivity benefits of using the coax, which is the main reason to use one in the first place.

The KEF tweeters are good, but AFAIK the lowest-distortion ones (last time I looked anyway) were from Bliesma...
 
Agree on the tweeter, but why the 4" as well? Also, this build is for low distortion, so which would have the higher quality tweeter?
I thought you were referring to a KEF concentric driver. If so, it has both a tweeter and a midrange/woofer. To run that midrange/woofer in parallel with two other woofers probably would not work out too well for a number of reasons.

But, perhaps I misunderstood your intention. What KEF driver are thinking of and how were you thinking of implementing it in your design?
 
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I still won't be spending the same amount as a KEF blade.
There is a lot of R&D in the KEF Blade. And, its concentric driver is their top tier driver. I am not aware of KEF even offering them for sale without actually buying the speakers themselves. If you are able to get your hands on a pair of those, I will be extremely impressed.
 
Understood - if I were to use it, it would be in a waterproof plastic object (3d print) and also surrounded by porous plastic structures on either side, so 1) water is not a major concern and 2) I think that high frequency resonances would tend to be absorbed by the inner/outer plastic layers.

To be fair I haven't seen a lot of people use this method, but I think concrete is probably necessary to stiffen a 3D printed speaker cabinet, sand alone will leave too much flex, no?

I guess it would be possible to design it with a layer of sand AND concrete, why not?
I don't know much about 3D printing, but if I imagine a double walled structure that had some sort of widely spaced matrix connecting inner wall to outer, seems it would increase overall stiffness of structure. Subsequently, I'd fill the created void with sand or perhaps two-part silicone like the stuff for casting molds. Could also be filled with epoxy, but that curing process creates considerable heat, which may be an issue, and I don't know if it would have noticeable effect on cabinet acoustics in the end. Although concrete seems like a good idea to some, I honestly don't see the benefits in this application. Natural Stone or Quartz countertop material has similar properties and would need to be damped somehow.
I'm not an engineer but have experience with the products mentioned.
 
Well I just learned something new lol

With the silica sand, wouldn't the heat eventually saturate the material and just make the whole thing hot? Or is there enough extra mass that that wouldn't be relevant?
You mean SSC? Spontaneous Speaker Combustion?;)

The temp rise would be insignificant. Probably not even measurable without some really sensitive equipment. From science class I remember "energy cannot be created nor destroyed, only transformed". I have a subwoofer that I made with an MDF, sand, MDF sandwich. It remains at ambient temp with the tools I have at hand.
 
KEF concentric drivers are a tweeter and mid combined... if you add another woofer/mid you forgo the directivity benefits of using the coax, which is the main reason to use one in the first place.

The KEF tweeters are good, but AFAIK the lowest-distortion ones (last time I looked anyway) were from Bliesma...
That was the tweeter I was probably going to go with. The 25mm beryllium will give me the performance I wanted in terms of distortion.

I thought you were referring to a KEF concentric driver. If so, it has both a tweeter and a midrange/woofer. To run that midrange/woofer in parallel with two other woofers probably would not work out too well for a number of reasons.
What about KEF's other floor standing speakers? They also have other woofers. Now where they're crossed over I would have to look up.

You mean SSC? Spontaneous Speaker Combustion?;)

The temp rise would be insignificant. Probably not even measurable without some really sensitive equipment. From science class I remember "energy cannot be created nor destroyed, only transformed". I have a subwoofer that I made with an MDF, sand, MDF sandwich. It remains at ambient temp with the tools I have at hand.
Like sand bags or just outright sand?
 
I don't know much about 3D printing, but if I imagine a double walled structure that had some sort of widely spaced matrix connecting inner wall to outer, seems it would increase overall stiffness of structure.
Yes, but ABS is not very stiff, modulus of elasticity is about half of MDF. And the structures you'd use in the void would be quite thin, so IMO they aren't really comparable to a solid-built MDF structure. Sand might really be OK in this situation, true, just something about concrete seems appealing to me. But in my wildest conceptualizing of DIY 3D printed cabinets, I figured a layer of sand with a layer of concrete outside that would be best - damping to prevent high frequencies from reaching the concrete, plus stiffness from the concrete to prevent any flexing, plus overall high transmission losses between the 5 layers (plastic, sand, plastic, concrete, plastic).
 
What about KEF's other floor standing speakers? They also have other woofers. Now where they're crossed over I would have to look up.
The LS60s and Blades are 3-way. Highs and mids go to the concentric driver (tweeter and midrange, respectively), and the lows go to the side firing woofers.
 
The LS60s and Blades are 3-way. Highs and mids go to the concentric driver (tweeter and midrange, respectively), and the lows go to the side firing woofers.
Well I would say "what about a 4 way crossover?" But I can't think of any DSP kits off the top of my head that do that.
 
Well I would say "what about a 4 way crossover?" But I can't think of any DSP kits off the top of my head that do that.
I have a 4-way setup using a miniDSP Flex HTx. All DSP and amplification is done external to the speakers, with the exception of the subwoofer, which has its own plate amplifier.

CamillaDSP also will handle a 4-way setup.

If you go with a 4-way setup using a KEF concentric midrange/tweeter, instead of two 4" woofers I would use a single 6.5" woofer.

The Purifi 4" woofers have an effective piston area, Sd, of 56.7 sq. cm. Two of those woofers will give you a total Sd of 113.4 sq. cm.

A single Purify 6.5" woofer will give you an Sd of 132.7 sq. cm. Also, the 6.5" woofer has greater Linear excursion, 9.8 mm vs 8.8mm comparing the extended versions. Between the greater Sd and the greater excursion, it will move about 30% more air.
 
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Well I would say "what about a 4 way crossover?" But I can't think of any DSP kits off the top of my head that do that.
Still, with the side-firing woofers in the cabinet, you probably could cross them over at around 250 - 300 Hz. A KEF concentric driver should have no issue handling the frequencies up from there.

I use a 4-way setup because my subwoofer is crossed over much lower in frequency. So, the woofer fills in the gap between the sub and the concentric driver. With all of the drivers in one cabinet you wouldn't really need to do that, though.
 
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@kemmler3D that's about as far as I've gotten
 
It looks like it is coming along! The front of the baffle now is very low diffraction.

All of those small holes in the brace in front of the woofers will act as internal ports and create a resonance. Is this your intention? Do you have them tuned to a certain frequency?
 
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I had the same thought. Also the, cabinet looks really deep (like longer than it is tall), where will this thing sit?
 
All of those small holes in the brace in front of the woofers will act as internal ports and create a resonance. Is this your intention? Do you have them tuned to a certain frequency?
Actually the idea was to have a constant flow pattern. Those woofers have a super low Vas (28L) and with two in parallel that brings it down to 14, but will still need cabinet volume in order to function properly. The holes would allow the energy to be dispersed throughout the enclosure. Proper dampening would cap it off.
I had the same thought. Also the, cabinet looks really deep (like longer than it is tall), where will this thing sit?
I had the same thought. I wasn't sure how much extra space I needed for the subs so I left about 3 inches of play.
 
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