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Idle Power Consumption of Class D Amplifiers

Canuck57

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My speakers are bi-amped with two Class D power amplifiers rated at 60 watts per channel (each stereo power amplifier). They use Texas Instruments Class D modules. The power switches are inconveniently located at the back of each power amplifier. Is the idle power consumption low for class D amplifiers and would longevity be impacted much by leaving the amplifiers on all the time?
 

Doodski

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My speakers are bi-amped with two Class D power amplifiers rated at 60 watts per channel (each stereo power amplifier). They use Texas Instruments Class D modules. The power switches are inconveniently located at the back of each power amplifier. Is the idle power consumption low for class D amplifiers and would longevity be impacted much by leaving the amplifiers on all the time?
A rule of thumb is every 10 degrees Celsius halves the life of electrolytic capacitors. I've even read as much as a 70% decrease. So turning them off will increase the longevity. The current consumption of the class D amps should be small though. I suppose if we added up all the vampire loads across the nation though they would require a nuclear reactor to power them all. I turn everything off or they go into sleep mode when I'm not using them. Your choice. :D
 
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Canuck57

Canuck57

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thanks for the advice Doodski

I think I will connect the power amplifiers to a power bar which will be easier to access to turn off and on. Now I need to find an audiophile grade power bar! ;)
 
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Canuck57

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HemiRick

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I leave my class D Behringer NX3000 on 24/7, it makes nasty noises if I turn it off/on w a remote power switch, so I just leave it on.
 
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Canuck57

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:D

Issue is , There doesn't seem to be any Power On/Off Switch on this marvelous accessory which did this, to the reviewer's system: " The top-end lacked any hash and sounded clean with an effortless beauty" ... You may have to search for an audiophile-approved on-off switch.

I better up my price then to include one with an audiophile on off switch, thanks for pointing that out!
 

DonH56

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If you have a trigger output you can buy power strips with trigger inputs. If you don't, then you can buy SmartStrips or similar from many companies that sense power draw on one outlet (like your preamp or PC) to turn on the other outlets (e.g. power amps).

HTH - Don
 
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Canuck57

Canuck57

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If you have a trigger output you can buy power strips with trigger inputs. If you don't, then you can buy SmartStrips or similar from many companies that sense power draw on one outlet (like your preamp or PC) to turn on the other outlets (e.g. power amps).

HTH - Don

Thanks for the advice Don. My amplifiers don't have a trigger output, I'm going to simply plug both into a power bar with a switch that's easy to access for turning them both on.
 

Vasr

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Don't most amps come on in a standby mode if the trigger controls the mains into the amp? You would still need a way to turn the amp on. Unless I am missing something...

Also, not being an expert in these things, is there any negative side-effects of turning on an amp (or any audio equipment) with its power switch always on but cutting the mains on and off from the power strip? Some of these amps have a power button to a standby mode and then a mains disconnect switch.
 

restorer-john

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Don't most amps come on in a standby mode if the trigger controls the mains into the amp? You would still need a way to turn the amp on. Unless I am missing something...

Some can be set to return to last state, be it on, or off.

Also, not being an expert in these things, is there any negative side-effects of turning on an amp (or any audio equipment) with its power switch always on but cutting the mains on and off from the power strip? Some of these amps have a power button to a standby mode and then a mains disconnect switch.

Most amplifiers these days have "soft" power switches. Momentary switches that trigger logic to turn on the SMPS or a relay which activates the main power transformer (they often have a small standby PT for remote power up etc). They may or may not work in that situation.

Old school amplifiers with real power switches can be left on and triggered at the wall point, a remote relay switch or whatever you like. That is, unless you have one of the rare birds where there is an interaction in the physical switch that activates a turn on delay/surge protect using additional staged contacts or ganged switches and an inline resistor/relay to prevent huge turn-on currents.

My main power amplifiers (and entire system) are switched via a relay operated power strip. Party because of the turn on surge on the switch contacts, partly because I like to be able to turn everything on and off by RF remote when I go to bed. And it saves a ton of wear on switches that don't need it. Also, if I fall asleep and my partner doesn't want to wake me, she can switch off everything without laying a finger on the HiFi. And I like watching the lights dim/flicker when I turn it on. :)
 
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KaiserSoze

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My speakers are bi-amped with two Class D power amplifiers rated at 60 watts per channel (each stereo power amplifier). They use Texas Instruments Class D modules. The power switches are inconveniently located at the back of each power amplifier. Is the idle power consumption low for class D amplifiers and would longevity be impacted much by leaving the amplifiers on all the time?

You can get a useful sense of the amount of heat an amplifier is dissipating into the room just by placing your hand on the amp and leaving it there for a half minute or so. Leave the amp plugged in overnight and check it in the morning before feeding it a signal. You may have some low-Wattage lightbulbs somewhere in the house, that you could use for comparison.

Even if the amount of power being dissipated seems to be negligible, the point that Doodski raised about accelerated aging of electrolytic capacitors is valid, although the significance depends on a couple of things. How long do you anticipate keeping these speakers in service? If it happens that the amp does feel hot when you put your hand on it in the morning, then it is likely that the temperature at the inside where the capacitors are located is not much greater than the room temperature. This is especially likely if the speakers are ported. (And ideally you should take this into account when you judge how much heat the amp is dissipating when you put your hand on it.) Note, though, that a temperature difference of 10 degrees C is a temperature difference of 18 degrees F, and 90 F will likely feel cool to the touch because it is lower than body temperature.

If you have one of those handheld IR thermometers it might be useful. They typically come with little laser pointers because people like to use the laser pointers to drive the cats crazy.
 
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Canuck57

Canuck57

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https://www.fosmon.com/outdoor-wireless-remote-control-2-plug-outlet-black

Each power amplifier has its own receptacle and it has a remote! Problem solved.

1599590669317.png
 

Harmonie

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Some can be set to return to last state, be it on, or off.



Most amplifiers these days have "soft" power switches. Momentary switches that trigger logic to turn on the SMPS or a relay which activates the main power transformer (they often have a small standby PT for remote power up etc). They may or may not work in that situation.

Old school amplifiers with real power switches can be left on and triggered at the wall point, a remote relay switch or whatever you like. That is, unless you have one of the rare birds where there is an interaction in the physical switch that activates a turn on delay/surge protect using additional staged contacts or ganged switches and an inline resistor/relay to prevent huge turn-on currents.

My main power amplifiers (and entire system) are switched via a relay operated power strip. Party because of the turn on surge on the switch contacts, partly because I like to be able to turn everything on and off by RF remote when I go to bed. And it saves a ton of wear on switches that don't need it. Also, if I fall asleep and my partner doesn't want to wake me, she can switch off everything without laying a finger on the HiFi. And I like watching the lights dim/flicker when I turn it on. :)

I like to hear the click of the relays powering my amps :)
Schnell RCA Right (7).jpg
 

pjug

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thanks for the advice Doodski

I think I will connect the power amplifiers to a power bar which will be easier to access to turn off and on. Now I need to find an audiophile grade power bar! ;)
My audiophile switches cost $10 for a 3-pak:
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...on-off-switch-for-amplifier.13991/post-430383

I have these plugged into an Emotiva DC blocker and use one each for Outlaw mono amps. The amps have signal sensing and can go into standby, but standby power is a few watts so I wanted to be able turn them all the way off. Of course I'm joking about audiophile quality, but really I am very happy with this solution.
 

Chromatischism

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egellings

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I have a pair of the Hypex UCD-100 switchmode power amp modules powered by a switchmode power supply, and assembly is nearly cold when powered up and not in use. Even when playing, it doesn't get all that warm. I did not measure the AC wall quiescent current, but judging from the observed heating or lack thereof, it's pretty negligible. My 'lytics never had it so good.
 

Nick Laslett

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For my own reference.

Master slave powerstrip or smart socket won’t work for my configuration. What I really want is the power amp to have audio sensing. This seems to be a bit of a niche feature outside custom install amps. @boXem | audio makes an Hypex Ncore unit with audio sensing.

https://boxem-audio.eu/en/stereo-amplifiers/5-11-arthur-3409n2.html#/2-faceplate_color-oxidized_grey

Another option I found is this pre-made circuit board ASD-1M

https://motronix.co.il/product/asd-1-audio-signal-detecting-auto-power-on-off-with-12v-trigger-out/

There are a few discontinued products like the Linn Klout Signal Sensor and Niles CS12V.

There is also the Bobwire DAT1 that takes Toslink input.

https://www.bobwireaudio.com/

There are a lot of products from the install industry. Like RDL ST-ACR2

https://www.rdlnet.com/product.php?page=278#ui-tabs-1

There is also a method using a USB cable with a 12v Jack add to it.

https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/usb-to-12v-trigger-input.19971/

Another thread here with good solutions.

https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/12v-trigger-options.19879/
 
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