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Fosi Audio V3 Mono Amplifier Review

Rate this amplifier:

  • 1. Poor (headless panther)

    Votes: 13 1.9%
  • 2. Not terrible (postman panther)

    Votes: 22 3.1%
  • 3. Fine (happy panther)

    Votes: 138 19.7%
  • 4. Great (golfing panther)

    Votes: 528 75.3%

  • Total voters
    701
Acoustics.. you mean loudspeakers?
Yes

this is the latest version of these columns
 
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I had a really notable hum when using the RCA connections (from my Onkyo AVR preouts) now I'm using RCA->XLR cables and it's gone. At least they made some sense now :p
 
Update , today i receive one mono only . @Fosi Audio doesn´t send two as i backed up on the kickstarter. So this is still good support for you? Worst experience i have ever had.
Sorry for the bad experience. Let me follow up.
 
Sorry for the bad experience. Let me follow up.
Hello! Could you answer a few questions, since there is no information on the web... How can you characterize the sound of the sp601 with a black speaker, and also whether their sound is really the same as that of the Dynaudio emit 20?
 
I searched through the thread and I couldn't find a straight answer on this:

Is there any benefit to using 2x 10A PSUs instead of 2x 5A PSUs?
 
good enough for me lol

makes me wonder why they offer the option for 2x 10A as a package though, money grab?
Everything the light touches is a money grab.

IMG_4544.jpeg
 
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HI @Fosi Audio . This amplifier for DAYTON AUDIO UM10 SUB will not have enough output, right?
The specifications of the DAYTON AUDIO UM10 SUB are as follows.

Key Specs:​


  • Nominal Diameter: 10"
  • Power Handling (RMS): 500W
  • Power Handling (MAX): 1000W
  • Impedance: Dual Voice Coil, 2 Ω + 2 Ω
  • Frequency Response: 20 - 800 Hz
  • Sensitivity: 83.6 dB 2.83V/1m
  • Voice Coil Diameter: 2.5"
  • Maximum Linear Excursion: 19mm
 
Depends a lot on two thing:

How you plan to use the sub (room, music, loudness), and what two parameters in Hofmann's Iron Law you plan to make the enclosure design focus on.

Although... 83.6 dB is not much to work with.
 
I'm thinking of attaching the two subwoofers to the 1/4 and 3/4 points of the front wall to reduce the dip and peak in the low range. The size of the room is 5.5x9M, and the distance from the front wall to the listening position is 3M. I think the basic sound pressure is 85dB, so I want the 3M distance woofer to basically give a clean sound up to 103dB.

The cabinet will be made the same as DAYTON AUDIO's recommended specifications. :
  • Sealed: 0.75 cubic ft. (net internal, not including driver volume) produces an f3 of 38 Hz with a 0.85 Qtc alignment
 
Today I received mine, bought the double package! I am impressed how the small ones sound. OK, they get a bit warm, but as I read is that OK. But what I experienced is that one amp does not shut off in automatic mode, while the other does. Hm!
 
Today I received mine, bought the double package! I am impressed how the small ones sound. OK, they get a bit warm, but as I read is that OK. But what I experienced is that one amp does not shut off in automatic mode, while the other does. Hm!
Have you tried switching the L&R inputs to see if the cause is in the source signal? If the problem is definitely in one amp then it would be a warranty/ return issue.
 
OK, after lurking around, I'm stay away from the Fosi V3 Monos in this iteration.

1. Heat. Most are fine with it, but some had (final) issues with their Monos. Some starts sweating when they just think about it.

2. It looks like the reliablility could be better. At least I know about three 'meltdowns'. I don't know if those failures are caused by heat or other circumstances, however feels a bit like a little PA5 story. Maybe I'm wrong and blended by the sheer amount of sold V3s.

3. Auto On / Off. This was a main reason to look into it. But ... in off position the consumption is still 10 W and then I need a physical power switch for the supplies anyway.


Somehow I hope for a V3 Mono mark II with less aggressive 40-42V power supply and/or better cooling and a real off switch, that's certainly hard to manage with external PSUs.
 
Yeah, I sat this one out too. Still like my stereo V3, but I tend to grab the A07 MAX for my small setup use these days. More interested in getting a Schiit Gjallarhorn for Xmas this year, and if I like it, could always get a second one to use as monos.
 
OK, after lurking around, I'm stay away from the Fosi V3 Monos in this iteration.

1. Heat. Most are fine with it, but some had (final) issues with their Monos. Some starts sweating when they just think about it.

2. It looks like the reliablility could be better. At least I know about three 'meltdowns'. I don't know if those failures are caused by heat or other circumstances, however feels a bit like a little PA5 story. Maybe I'm wrong and blended by the sheer amount of sold V3s.

3. Auto On / Off. This was a main reason to look into it. But ... in off position the consumption is still 10 W and then I need a physical power switch for the supplies anyway.


Somehow I hope for a V3 Mono mark II with less aggressive 40-42V power supply and/or better cooling and a real off switch, that's certainly hard to manage with external PSUs.
You can retrofit a real physical power switch for 5-10 /$ in the form of individually switchable sockets or power strips. For an all-in-one housing per monoblock, you have to expect a 3-digit surcharge.

The PA5 problem cannot occur with the Fosi V3 Mono, it is not physically present and therefore not possible. The PA5 problem had nothing to do with heat.

Out of at least 5000 devices sold, do you know of 3 failures? That is 0.0x percent. If that is the measure of unreliability, then you should never buy any device again.

It seems you are also a victim of the heat hysteria. An amplifier that you can touch and leave your hand on is not too hot.
How could the old amplifiers last 25-30 years without breaking, and that at temperatures of 40-50°? And today amplifiers that get a little warmer than hand-warm break immediately?!?
 
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