Edifier MR4 measurements (It's probably been upgraded.)

[jtk9412]

check with a frequency genrator if 3khz is louder or quieter than 2khz. maybe use a dezibel measurement app if you cant decide by ear.

anyway both are pretty good.

When I measure it from 15-20cm, 2kHz is 49.5dB and 3kHz is 52.4dB. When I get my iPhone's microphone closer to the source, the difference is less than 4dB. What does it mean?

 

[komhst]

When I measure it from 15-20cm, 2kHz is 49.5dB and 3kHz is 52.4dB. When I get my iPhone's microphone closer to the source, the difference is less than 4dB. What does it mean?

Maybe they are version 2...

 

[jtk9412]

@ninetylol I am not really familiar with how to gather the data from a screenshot and adjust it to make the monitors flat. If you still save the flat version (the data before your room adjustment), I would be appreciated if you could share it as well so I can apply it directly to EqualizerAPO.

 

[ninetylol]

@ninetylol I am not really familiar with how to gather the data from a screenshot and adjust it to make the monitors flat. If you still save the flat version (the data before your room adjustment), I would be appreciated if you could share it as well so I can apply it directly to EqualizerAPO.

You cant do that without a 200k Klippel measurement system

You need a measurement mic if you want to measure for yourself or you can apply Klippel data to yours.

 

[jtk9412]

You cant do that without a 200k Klippel measurement system

You need a measurement mic if you want to measure for yourself or you can apply Klippel data to yours.

I don't need to adjust it for my room, I just want it to be equalized for a flatter/more natural output.

I am recently using this but as you said, it is outdated. Can't we create a new version of EQ by using the updated version's graph from this subject? I just don't know how to do it on my own.

 

[roladyzator]

I don't need to adjust it for my room, I just want it to be equalized for a flatter/more natural output.

I am recently using this but as you said, it is outdated. Can't we create a new version of EQ by using the updated version's graph from this subject? I just don't know how to do it on my own.

I've used WebPlotDigitizer to get the CSV data from the on-axis line in the graph.
You can load in in the AutoEQ website and use the Flat target. I'd limit the max gain to 6 dB and select the Custom parametric EQ to set the lower bound for equalization to about 50 - 60 Hz, otherwise you'll end up with ridiculous levels of bass boost.

Or you can take this CSV and add the filters manually in REW.

 

[jtk9412]

I've used WebPlotDigitizer to get the CSV data from the on-axis line in the graph.
You can load in in the AutoEQ website and use the Flat target. I'd limit the max gain to 6 dB and select the Custom parametric EQ to set the lower bound for equalization to about 50 - 60 Hz, otherwise you'll end up with ridiculous levels of bass boost.

Or you can take this CSV and add the filters manually in REW.

I'm really appreciated.

 

[NielsMayer]

FYI... This one seems like an updated copy of the MR4 with USB/Bluetooth and a front port: https://www.amazon.com/Ortizan-Dual-Mode-Production-Bluetooth-Bookshelf/dp/B0DDHGHK8V/

BTW, what is the internal ADC rate of the DSP for the MR4? Seems like that should be prominently displayed in any review of these kinds of speakers as it would be pointless to be using a fancy high-sample-rate DAC and source-material, if internally everything is chopped down to 48K and 16bits (which seems to be the case for most of these heinous DSP-equipped "monitors" -- for example the raved-about JBL 305PmkII or Adam T5V/T8V).... plus you end up feeding your sound into a low-quality crap ADC. ( https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...udio-monitor-review.17118/page-13#post-938523 )

Stepping up to modern obsolescence, "new" "monitor" speakers now seem to employ 24bit/96K DSP, for example Vanatoo ( https://www.erinsaudiocorner.com/loudspeakers/vanatoo_zero_plus/ ) or the Hivi-Swan OS10 ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BG7WWWC1 )

Seems like you have to start spending ridiculous amounts of $$$ to get anything near an "HD" DSP system in a digital active speaker system, for example:
https://www.amazon.com/HiVi-Swans-M5A-Bluetooth-Bookshelf-Enclosures/dp/B09XGZBBS1 $1,359.99 "HiVi-Swans M5A Hi-Fi Bluetooth Bookshelf Speakers - Professional Studio Monitor Speakers - 8 inch Powered Home Wi-Fi Speakers, Explosive Bass Sound for Big Room" ::

• 3 WAY COMPONENT SPEAKERS - Configured with TI's PCM5242 chip and TPA3255 chip, its digital interface sampling rate up to 24bit/192kHz, which can more effectively promote the work of the whole unit, thus having a better effect, the purity of sound, response speed have done a very good job.

In contrast, the M4's upgrade, the M60 only uses a 96K internal sampling rate and limits USB digital input to 24bit/96Khz. ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D95QG8W4 )

For this style of speaker, using an analog input seems silly given that a low-quality A/D with questionable Nyquist filtering is going to mangle your sound first, which means there's no point in wasting money on a fancy DAC. Just use a SPDIF input, hopefully running at 192K.

Anyways, seeing all this DSP BS has convinced me to bust out my soldering iron and fix my ~30 year old Genelec 1031a's ( https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/genelec-1031a-measurements-review.49907/ ) which are still gloriously all-analog, and have an analog crossover in front of the bi-amps, as god intended these things to be done unless you're using a really good ADC and DSP. Until then, a single working 1031A and running in mono is still better than my foray into attempting to replace it with "chifi".

 

[NielsMayer]

I request that in the future tests of these kinds of "monitor" speakers go all the way up to say 48Khz... that way we can see what the internal DSP rate is independently of what is published. And also by putting in frequencies higher than Fs/2 we can see how bad the Nyquist filtering is on the internal ADC, which would end up folding any noise or signal over Fs/2 into the audible band as aliases. You think noise just magically stops at Fs/2?

That's why I'd like to see higher rate DSP used in this style of design. You could use a very simple LPF filter beginning at say -3dB @ 30K in front of the ADC, and sample at 192K....

 

[audiochan]

My base measurement without changing anything. Pretty good besides that 1-2khz dip. With a sub its almost perfect. Unbelieavble for the price.

Green is Music Mode - Red is Monitor Mode
View attachment 349111

how do i make an eq based on this graph, i think mine is the same with 3k peak

 

[audiochan]

I'm really appreciated.

can i have a look at your eq

 

[ninetylol]

can i have a look at your eq

I only EQ till 500Hz for room modes. If you wanna use EQ settings from someone else, it should be anechoic, which we dont have for the MR4 v2.

In other words you need to measure your own scenario or better dont EQ at all.

 

[audiochan]

I only EQ till 500Hz for room modes. If you wanna use EQ settings from someone else, it should be anechoic, which we dont have for the MR4 v2.

In other words you need to measure your own scenario or better dont EQ at all.

the reason why i need eq is because theres a nasty peak that hurts my ears when it comes to gunshots/car crashes/glass breaking, especially when theres lots of dynamic range in movies, thats why i need to have a baseline on what people reduce in their eqs

 

[roladyzator]

the reason why i need eq is because theres a nasty peak that hurts my ears when it comes to gunshots/car crashes/glass breaking, especially when theres lots of dynamic range in movies, thats why i need to have a baseline on what people reduce in their eqs

The cheapest microphone you can use is Dayton imm-6, you plug it into your smartphones or laptop's headphone jack. Works well with the MMM method. That would be much better than using other people's in-room measurements.

I've used it to determine where to put my subwoofer (Presonus Sub 8 BT) with my MR4

 

[audiochan]

(new to audio/eqing) but ive been trying to eq my speakers for months cause theres harsh piercing sounds and i found this website/link and tried to make an eq based on its measurements, can anyone help check my eq and see what i can improve on based on https://www.spinorama.org/speakers/Edifier MR4/Misc/misc-audiolabinsight/On Axis.html, im trying to make a general eq without room compensation, add me on discord if u wana chat in real time

 

[roladyzator]

(new to audio/eqing) but ive been trying to eq my speakers for months cause theres harsh piercing sounds and i found this website/link and tried to make an eq based on its measurements, can anyone help check my eq and see what i can improve on based on https://www.spinorama.org/speakers/Edifier MR4/Misc/misc-audiolabinsight/On Axis.html, im trying to make a general eq without room compensation, add me on discord if u wana chat in real time

The pictures shared in this thread show big differences between units. Even assuming that you're using the EQ correctly, there is a high chance you are not improving your particular speakers. Edifier themselves denied releasing an improved version of the speakers. Whether their rep even asked anyone at the company is a different question, but still, consistency is something you get with more expensive speakers than this.

Do you have them on desk, or stands? The reflection off of the desk affects the crossover frequency. You may prefer them when they're on desk or on stands - you need to try for yourself.

Is the tweeter pointed at your ears or not? Toe out can reduce the brightness from the high treble, bit the treble control on the speaker may be enough.

Is the tweeter at the ear level? The sound changes noticeably, for the worse, if the tweeter is below or above your ears more than 10 to 15 degrees.

In my case, the best option to reduce the brightness / sharpness to the sound was by adding a subwoofer to fill in the low end. Then, most recordings sounded OK and the brighter ones needed a small treble reduction (-1 to 2 dB shelf at 2 to 4 kHz) or listening at lower volumes.

 

[audiochan]

The pictures shared in this thread show big differences between units. Even assuming that you're using the EQ correctly, there is a high chance you are not improving your particular speakers. Edifier themselves denied releasing an improved version of the speakers. Whether their rep even asked anyone at the company is a different question, but still, consistency is something you get with more expensive speakers than this.

Do you have them on desk, or stands? The reflection off of the desk affects the crossover frequency. You may prefer them when they're on desk or on stands - you need to try for yourself.

Is the tweeter pointed at your ears or not? Toe out can reduce the brightness from the high treble, bit the treble control on the speaker may be enough.

Is the tweeter at the ear level? The sound changes noticeably, for the worse, if the tweeter is below or above your ears more than 10 to 15 degrees.

In my case, the best option to reduce the brightness / sharpness to the sound was by adding a subwoofer to fill in the low end. Then, most recordings sounded OK and the brighter ones needed a small treble reduction (-1 to 2 dB shelf at 2 to 4 kHz) or listening at lower volumes.

i already tried everything u mentioned the last thing is to eq or get new speakers. and its too painful to listen too, can i look at your eq settings im pretty sure theres a peak around 3-6k

 

[roladyzator]

So you tried adding a subwoofer and still found them too bright?
They you really do need a measurement microphone, perhaps there's something strange going on with yours.

Here are my measurements:
MR4 were in Monitor mode, with bass and treble knobs set to 0.
The subwoofer has a built-in high-pass-filter set to 80 Hz.

After some time I found the bass level to be too high so I reduced it by few dB but did not re-measure.
As you can see, I have major issues: a dip at 100 Hz & 150 Hz, some problems between 200 Hz and 1 kHz that are perhaps caused by room reflections and asymmetry.

My left and right speakers differ in 3 - 4 kHz region, where both are elevated but the left one is flat from 3 kHz to 3.5 kHz. Without anechoic, or quasi-anechoic measurements (which you can do yourself with a lot of dedication: see this thread) I can't say if it's the speakers or the room. So I'm not sure if it's worth equalizing it.

Above 4 kHz the treble measures flat-ish, and in a near-field setup that is acceptable but further away it would sound bright.

One last thing you can do is to actually try to find the offending frequencies.
Use Peace or another EQ application where you can easily adjust filters and create a filter with Q = 1.4, boost by 6 dB or so and move it across frequencies.
You should be able to notice where the sounds that irritate you get boosted, and from there you can experiment with cutting that band of frequencies.
As another check, you could use a tone generator where you can easily adjust frequency on-the-fly and validate whether or not your filter makes the transition smoother around the problematic band.
Toggling the filter on-off blindly while playing music or pink noise is also a good way of validating your filter - toggle back and forth without looking, until you arrive at the sound that you prefer. Then, check if it's with or without your filter.
Then, you can move on to another problematic band.

I myself do not equalize these after some experimentation. I couldn't arrive at a sound that would be substantially better and the simplicity of not having to use EQ won over my lazyness It's good enough for me for occasional use, and most of the times I use headphones.

 

[audiochan]

i already tried everything u mentioned the last thing is to eq or get new speakers. and its too painful to listen too, can i look at your eq settings

So you tried adding a subwoofer and still found them too bright?
They you really do need a measurement microphone, perhaps there's something strange going on with yours.

Here are my measurements:
MR4 were in Monitor mode, with bass and treble knobs set to 0.
The subwoofer has a built-in high-pass-filter set to 80 Hz.
View attachment 418788
After some time I found the bass level to be too high so I reduced it by few dB but did not re-measure.
As you can see, I have major issues: a dip at 100 Hz & 150 Hz, some problems between 200 Hz and 1 kHz that are perhaps caused by room reflections and asymmetry.

My left and right speakers differ in 3 - 4 kHz region, where both are elevated but the left one is flat from 3 kHz to 3.5 kHz. Without anechoic, or quasi-anechoic measurements (which you can do yourself with a lot of dedication: see this thread) I can't say if it's the speakers or the room. So I'm not sure if it's worth equalizing it.

Above 4 kHz the treble measures flat-ish, and in a near-field setup that is acceptable but further away it would sound bright.

One last thing you can do is to actually try to find the offending frequencies.
Use Peace or another EQ application where you can easily adjust filters and create a filter with Q = 1.4, boost by 6 dB or so and move it across frequencies.
You should be able to notice where the sounds that irritate you get boosted, and from there you can experiment with cutting that band of frequencies.
As another check, you could use a tone generator where you can easily adjust frequency on-the-fly and validate whether or not your filter makes the transition smoother around the problematic band.
Toggling the filter on-off blindly while playing music or pink noise is also a good way of validating your filter - toggle back and forth without looking, until you arrive at the sound that you prefer. Then, check if it's with or without your filter.
Then, you can move on to another problematic band.

I myself do not equalize these after some experimentation. I couldn't arrive at a sound that would be substantially better and the simplicity of not having to use EQ won over my lazyness It's good enough for me for occasional use, and most of the times I use headphones.

wow how does yours measure soo flat excluding the 3-4k peak, anyways im not sure how to do what u said abt pink noise/move across frequencies, i just learned how to use peace and am new to audio and i cant seem to fix the harshness on my mr4 without making it sound too dark. months ago i was searching for a good pair of speakers and i watched lots of reviews and from the consensus its a dark/relaxed sounding speakers... kinda disappointed because it seems like edifier changed/updated the tuning....

 

[JeremyFife]

the reason why i need eq is because theres a nasty peak that hurts my ears when it comes to gunshots/car crashes/glass breaking, especially when theres lots of dynamic range in movies, thats why i need to have a baseline on what people reduce in their eqs

Hi, do you hear that peak at lower volumes or is it only on the loud stuff (or transient bursts, like the loud explosions you mention)?

The MR4 is a nice, flat, speaker but it can't do loud. It's possible that what you are hearing is distortion - and some people are more sensitive to that.