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Edifier MR4 measurements (It's probably been upgraded.)

TheBatsEar

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Anyone know what Im talking about? and have experience with both speakers?
Welcome to ASR :)

I think i know what you are talking about and what the remedy is. You won't like it.

First, i have the Edifier r1280t, a variant of yours. It too has a 3.5" woofer.
The woofer is simply too small. There seems to be a minimum size to sound good in a regular room at a few meters, and our speakers just don't have that.
I have a pair of Yamaha HS7 that sound vastly different. They have a 6.5" woofer, i believe that is the main difference. Yes, they have more watts and the amp likely has a better SINAD, but i don't think that is what differentiates them. It's their size and woofer area.

What is there to do? I think it's best to use the Edifier M4 in the near field with a computer or something like it, and get proper speakers for your mother. I bought the Yamaha HS7 for 300€ a pair used, maybe you get another speaker with a properly sized enclosure and woofer for less. I think 6.5" is the minimum for me now. There are exceptions, like the ones from Genelec and Neumann, but these are a bit beyond the budget of regular folk like us.
 
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ninetylol

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Since I still have my KEF KUBE 12B around, I will test the MR4 with it soon. Will be fun!
 

ninetylol

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My base measurement without changing anything. Pretty good besides that 1-2khz dip. With a sub its almost perfect. Unbelieavble for the price.

Green is Music Mode - Red is Monitor Mode
mr4.png
 

ninetylol

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Sounds fantastic too! From the little bump at ~3,2kHz it seems the speakers i got are updated V2 version too. Actually crazy that you can get such good speakers for 75€

Most people probably need a sub, but if you are not a basshead its still very fine in my opinion.
 

ninetylol

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What EQ did you used? Could you please share the settings?
This is my room so most of the EQ is to counter room modes so you shouldnt use my settings. I also lowered the bass wheel to minimum because im using a subwoofer.
You can orientate to the klippel measurements in post 1 though if you wanna try some EQ as they should be universal to all MR4s.

If you still wanna look at my EQ settings here they are with before and after
Filter 1: ON PK Fc 17.85 Hz Gain -15.70 dB Q 8.928
Filter 2: ON PK Fc 29.10 Hz Gain -14.00 dB Q 9.825
Filter 3: ON PK Fc 31.75 Hz Gain -5.80 dB Q 3.540
Filter 4: ON PK Fc 46.55 Hz Gain 4.30 dB Q 3.261
Filter 5: ON PK Fc 57.80 Hz Gain -6.60 dB Q 14.909
Filter 6: ON PK Fc 69.00 Hz Gain -12.70 dB Q 10.359
Filter 7: ON PK Fc 75.70 Hz Gain -7.70 dB Q 5.983
Filter 8: ON PK Fc 84.90 Hz Gain -5.80 dB Q 11.052
Filter 9: ON PK Fc 89.50 Hz Gain -6.90 dB Q 23.544
Filter 10: ON PK Fc 95.70 Hz Gain 6.00 dB Q 7.500
Filter 11: ON PK Fc 113.5 Hz Gain -5.60 dB Q 2.571
Filter 12: ON PK Fc 157.5 Hz Gain -5.90 dB Q 16.441
Filter 13: ON PK Fc 195.0 Hz Gain -6.30 dB Q 6.004
Filter 14: ON PK Fc 251.0 Hz Gain 6.00 dB Q 3.101
Filter 15: ON PK Fc 304.0 Hz Gain -6.70 dB Q 3.145
Filter 16: ON PK Fc 461.0 Hz Gain -6.40 dB Q 3.081
Filter 17: ON PK Fc 1379 Hz Gain 3.40 dB Q 1.000
Filter 18: ON PK Fc 3360 Hz Gain -3.10 dB Q 4.899
Filter 19: ON PK Fc 12498 Hz Gain -1.80 dB Q 1.287
Filter 20: ON PK Fc 240 Hz Gain -1.6 dB Q 9.671
Preamp: -3.3 dB
image.png
 

jtk9412

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This is my room so most of the EQ is to counter room modes so you shouldnt use my settings. I also lowered the bass wheel to minimum because im using a subwoofer.
You can orientate to the klippel measurements in post 1 though if you wanna try some EQ as they should be universal to all MR4s.

If you still wanna look at my EQ settings here they are with before and after
Filter 1: ON PK Fc 17.85 Hz Gain -15.70 dB Q 8.928
Filter 2: ON PK Fc 29.10 Hz Gain -14.00 dB Q 9.825
Filter 3: ON PK Fc 31.75 Hz Gain -5.80 dB Q 3.540
Filter 4: ON PK Fc 46.55 Hz Gain 4.30 dB Q 3.261
Filter 5: ON PK Fc 57.80 Hz Gain -6.60 dB Q 14.909
Filter 6: ON PK Fc 69.00 Hz Gain -12.70 dB Q 10.359
Filter 7: ON PK Fc 75.70 Hz Gain -7.70 dB Q 5.983
Filter 8: ON PK Fc 84.90 Hz Gain -5.80 dB Q 11.052
Filter 9: ON PK Fc 89.50 Hz Gain -6.90 dB Q 23.544
Filter 10: ON PK Fc 95.70 Hz Gain 6.00 dB Q 7.500
Filter 11: ON PK Fc 113.5 Hz Gain -5.60 dB Q 2.571
Filter 12: ON PK Fc 157.5 Hz Gain -5.90 dB Q 16.441
Filter 13: ON PK Fc 195.0 Hz Gain -6.30 dB Q 6.004
Filter 14: ON PK Fc 251.0 Hz Gain 6.00 dB Q 3.101
Filter 15: ON PK Fc 304.0 Hz Gain -6.70 dB Q 3.145
Filter 16: ON PK Fc 461.0 Hz Gain -6.40 dB Q 3.081
Filter 17: ON PK Fc 1379 Hz Gain 3.40 dB Q 1.000
Filter 18: ON PK Fc 3360 Hz Gain -3.10 dB Q 4.899
Filter 19: ON PK Fc 12498 Hz Gain -1.80 dB Q 1.287
Filter 20: ON PK Fc 240 Hz Gain -1.6 dB Q 9.671
Preamp: -3.3 dB
View attachment 349247
I am recently using https://raw.githubusercontent.com/pierreaubert/spinorama/develop/datas/eq/Edifier MR4/iir-autoeq.txt from Spinorama. I just wondered if there is a better EQ. I am using it without subwoofer.
 

SivKiv

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Dont exactly know what you mean. This is a stereo measurement from the MLP in my room about 90cm listening distance
Oh it's a stereo measurement. Well, I was wondering if you could gate the response if you had done a single speaker on axis measurement instead, would give a good idea of the speaker's stock FR. There's an explanation done somewhere on ASR about how gating works, I'll see if I can find it.
 

roladyzator

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I have the white MR4s and EQ based on Erin's measurements
Oh it's a stereo measurement. Well, I was wondering if you could gate the response if you had done a single speaker on axis measurement instead, would give a good idea of the speaker's stock FR. There's an explanation done somewhere on ASR about how gating works, I'll see if I can find it.
I believe you need to measure using impulse response as the playback signal. Then, in the recorded signal cut the reverb part "by eye". Then, calculate the FR from such impulse recording, REW can do this.

The closer the speaker is to a reflective surface, the shorter will the time interval between the direct and reflected sound be and you will have to cut the file sooner. This will limit the frequency resolution. That is why such quasi-anechoic measurements are often done outdoors or in large rooms, with speaker raised up above ground on some kind of platform.
 

ninetylol

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I have the white MR4s and EQ based on Erin's measurements
The whole point of this thread was @Nuyes pointing out theres some sort of revision of the MR4 - and that Amirs and Erins measurements are 'outdated'. I wouldnt use any EQ if you cant check what revision you are on. Good point to check is 3kHz since 'old' revision has a dip and new revision has a bump.

I believe you need to measure using impulse response as the playback signal. Then, in the recorded signal cut the reverb part "by eye". Then, calculate the FR from such impulse recording, REW can do this.

The closer the speaker is to a reflective surface, the shorter will the time interval between the direct and reflected sound be and you will have to cut the file sooner. This will limit the frequency resolution. That is why such quasi-anechoic measurements are often done outdoors or in large rooms, with speaker raised up above ground on some kind of platform.
interesting but as i said from the bumps you can already see i have the never revision. maybe one day Ill try :D
 

roladyzator

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The whole point of this thread was @Nuyes pointing out theres some sort of revision of the MR4 - and that Amirs and Erins measurements are 'outdated'. I wouldnt use any EQ if you cant check what revision you are on. Good point to check is 3kHz since 'old' revision has a dip and new revision has a bump.


interesting but as i said from the bumps you can already see i have the never revision. maybe one day Ill try :D
Are your MR4 white by chance?
I have mine (white) for a few months and did notice that Amir's or Erin's EQ settings make it worse.

I bought a Dayton IMM-6 (measuring mic that connects to the headphone jack) and did some measurements, but still I need some practice to get repeatable results and there's software quirks on Android.

Still, no sub yet, so I'm listening with maximum bass setting and I'm quite happy with them. I'm considering the similarly priced T5 sub from edifier (8 inch) for them, though in Poland we have a company that makes drivers, loudspeakers and subwoofers and you can get a 10 or even 12 inch sub for a good price.

Do you use a high pass filter to cut bass coming to MR4, or is setting the bass knob to minimum good enough?
 

ninetylol

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Are your MR4 white by chance?
I have mine (white) for a few months and did notice that Amir's or Erin's EQ settings make it worse.

I bought a Dayton IMM-6 (measuring mic that connects to the headphone jack) and did some measurements, but still I need some practice to get repeatable results and there's software quirks on Android.

Still, no sub yet, so I'm listening with maximum bass setting and I'm quite happy with them. I'm considering the similarly priced T5 sub from edifier (8 inch) for them, though in Poland we have a company that makes drivers, loudspeakers and subwoofers and you can get a 10 or even 12 inch sub for a good price.

Do you use a high pass filter to cut bass coming to MR4, or is setting the bass knob to minimum good enough?
Yes white here too. I dont have a HPF at the moment so i turned bass down to minimum and set the sub accordingly to measurements. I think the MR4 could greatly profit from some HPF though.
 

ninetylol

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For those curious this is what happens when you HPF the speaker at different frequencies (music mode bass control on speakers to minimum).


Screenshot 2024-02-14 103409.png


Funnily enough i got the best results crossing the sub at 80Hz and the speakers at 220Hz because of the massive peak they produce between 120-220Hz.
Screenshot 2024-02-14 104229.png


Final result:
Screenshot 2024-02-14 104337.png
 
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jtk9412

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I wouldnt use Amirs or erins measurements as base, when theres clearly a updated verion of the MR4 around which measures differently.
I bought mine on November 2022. Is there a way to check if mines are the updated ones? I remember asking this to Edifier directly and they said they did not make an update or upgrade.
 

ninetylol

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I bought mine on November 2022. Is there a way to check if mines are the updated ones? I remember asking this to Edifier directly and they said they did not make an update or upgrade.
check with a frequency genrator if 3khz is louder or quieter than 2khz. maybe use a dezibel measurement app if you cant decide by ear.

anyway both are pretty good.
 
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