Kösz. Nagyon jó, hogy ilyen jó fejek vagytok. A hozzászólásod sokat segít és megnyugtat. Most már tudom, mire számítsak.
In any case, I will use the 8Ω setting based on your suggestions.
If you read the first post of this thread you will find that the DRA800H delivers 145W at 4Ω. and 108W at 8Ω in Amir's test conditions.
If you take into account that I will be sending a limited bandwidth low frequency signal to the dra-800h (40Hz-250Hz), then maybe this will also improve the situation. So the dra-800h doesn't have to worry about amplifying the entire bandwidth, since I'll only be sending the sub-low frequency signal to it. I think the "direct mode" will be the most suitable for this task.
www.crownaudio.com
I understand that it is certainly not the best choice, but if the DRA will know a little more compared to my current 2x100W/4Ω amplifier, then I will be satisfied. Thanks.That won't matter much because you are using the amp as a subwoofer amp so the amp will be amplifying the whole low frequency range full time. If the contents you play have lots of bass, the amp will have to work hard, limited bandwidth or not. Good subwoofer amps are typically rated hundreds of (even over 1,000 W) watts for good reasons. Even the entry level SVS PB1000 is rated 300 W.
In my opinion, by now, you have the information you need to make your decision. You seem still concerned if the DRA amp has enough power, but the simple fact is, while most people won't use a relatively low output integrated amp with an AVR to drive subwoofers, almost any decent 50 W amp can drive any speaker or subwoofer if you don't listen too loud and don't sit too far.
Try an online calculator to estimate your actual estimated power need if you want to have a better idea:
How Much | Crown Audio - Professional Power Amplifiers | English
I don't know the impedance and phase angle characteristics of your subwoofers. If they are 4 ohm nominal, then whatever those calculators results show, double it, and it will be the "watts" you need. That's because those calculators are based on using 8 ohm loads.
Again, it is usually not a good idea to use such an integrated amp (especially one such as the DRA-800H) as a power amp for subwoofers, but you seem so fixated on going this route, so good luck to you. A weird case as it seems, you will be fine as long as your power need based on your specific listening habits and distance is well within the amp's capability, that is about 100 W 8 ohms, less for 4 ohms (except for short term, peaks etc.).
Peak SPL calculatorThat won't matter much because you are using the amp as a subwoofer amp so the amp will be amplifying the whole low frequency range full time. If the contents you play have lots of bass, the amp will have to work hard, limited bandwidth or not. Good subwoofer amps are typically rated hundreds of (even over 1,000 W) watts for good reasons. Even the entry level SVS PB1000 is rated 300 W.
In my opinion, by now, you have the information you need to make your decision. You seem still concerned if the DRA amp has enough power, but the simple fact is, while most people won't use a relatively low output integrated amp with an AVR to drive subwoofers, almost any decent 50 W amp can drive any speaker or subwoofer if you don't listen too loud and don't sit too far.
Try an online calculator to estimate your actual estimated power need if you want to have a better idea:
How Much | Crown Audio - Professional Power Amplifiers | English
I don't know the impedance and phase angle characteristics of your subwoofers. If they are 4 ohm nominal, then whatever those calculators results show, double it, and it will be the "watts" you need. That's because those calculators are based on using 8 ohm loads.
Again, it is usually not a good idea to use such an integrated amp (especially one such as the DRA-800H) as a power amp for subwoofers, but you seem so fixated on going this route, so good luck to you. A weird case as it seems, you will be fine as long as your power need based on your specific listening habits and distance is well within the amp's capability, that is about 100 W 8 ohms, less for 4 ohms (except for short term, peaks etc.).
40 ft, really?
Is 40 feet realistic? I've counted more, usually 20-30 feet.
Yes, it is broken!
Failures like this are common in electronics. Components heat up and then fail. If you were good with electronics, you could open it up, and use a hair dryer to heat up different sections and see if you can make it fail on demand then. Then apply some freezing spray to do the opposite and see if it starts to work. If so, you could narrow it down to the failing component. But then you need to have skill in replacing the part.
Aren't Denon warranties usually 2 or 3 years? Are there any consumer protections where you are?
