People hi
I had talked about replacing the link capacitors located near the volume potentiometer.
Here's a quick reminder ->
The purpose of this replacement is to lower the low cut-off frequency below 1 Hertz but especially
to correct the phase shift at low frequencies as can be seen on the violet curve (result of the '
MOD').
I take this opportunity to make you see that the impedance that results from this assembly is
50 kOhms: it is the input impedance (
Ze) that will 'load' the OPAMPS that follow.
We are in the presence of a
high input impedance and we have seen that it was preferable to use
FET type OPAMPS in this case, hence the choice of
OPA 1656
I had the choice between different capacitors of 10μF for this replacement ->
I chose WIMA (polypropylene) because they are better suited for this type of circuit (linking), they are however less simple to set up than the others because they are too big and it will still be necessary to set them up
As much as it is very simple to remove the existing capacitors as it will be more complicated to put the new ones.
Indeed, on these Chinese cards the soldering is '
not terrible' but above all it tends to stay in the holes provided for the '
legs' of the components.
Forget about the desoldering pump or the ground braid: it does not work on this type of board and you risk damaging it
So, i will try to explain my '
technique' with some photos ->
In the first photo, I use resistors whose '
legs' are
the same diameter as those of the capacitors I unsoldered and push them about 5 millimeters (which will protrude on the other side) into the hole by heating with my soldering iron.
Then I cut the '
leg' letting the maximum length protrude on top of the card (second photo).
On the third photo (below the card), I grab the tip of the '
leg' that protrudes with a clamp while heating it with my soldering iron and I pull it back gently until I pull it entirely: the hole is unclogged ready to receive one of the new '
legs' of my new capacitors
Preparation of new capacitors:
As you can see in the photos, I made sure to be able to shift the capacitors but so that the legs are aligned as is the case for the passage holes of the board.
I put heat shrink sheath to isolate the legs and prevent any short circuit. All that remains is to set them up and weld them ->
There you go !
It wasn't complicated
My amplifier almost 'finished' (two or three more things to see...).
You can see my 'DIY' cables that I use...
I was going to forget to give you
my listening impressions following this change.
The high-bass/low midrange have gained in clarity/definition of quite little it is true but this is audible
For your information when I make changes, I call my neighbor who is a musician (guitarist) and we play the same piece of music many times to soak up the smallest details.
After the modification we both noticed an improvement during the passages on bass guitar and percussion.
This confirms that
by listening, we validated what had been technically planned during my '
explanations' at the beginning of the post