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Amp or all in one to replace my Devialet 200

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Womaz

Womaz

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I understand, electronics are ‘done’ just look at Amir’s list of dacs and amplifiers Hypex/Purifi/Benchmark all superb, what you might consider is acoustically measuring your room with a microphone and REW software ( which costs virtually nothing) and then introducing a mechanism for implementing any filters it suggests just to control the low bass region.
This might be software with Peq, dacs with eq, streamers with eq sorting out the bass is almost certainly the largest improvement in SQ one can make.
Keith
Again thanks for your input.
I would want an amp with a DAC as the minimum. I would ideally like to reduce box count not increase it.
As I said to another member on here I have zero inclination to start measuring with Microphones etc. :) I do really appreciate your input though.

I will loom at Amirs list to see if any of my shortlist are reviewed
 
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Womaz

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I think it will - since you are in the UK just get one from your local Richer Sounds on a home demo. Or order it on-line then you can send it back within 14 days, you don't need to give a reason.

Your room is not massive I think 150watts will be plenty with those speakers.
Yes on the Cambridge Audio website it says I can have a 60 day home trial. Just found this so thats a real possibility now
 

ZolaIII

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Thanks again.
So really me looking at the watts into however many ohms is a bit of a waste of time. Not that I understand it.
I just know the speakers a floor standers and probably need an amp with decent power to drive them.
Your post is very helpful but makes me think the only way I will know if the amp will drive my speakers is to try it......that could be an expensive trial :)

I know I could use a Mic as you suggest, but I admit I am just not that dedicated to do that :)
Using mic is 5 min process (when you get a hand of it) with which you know fur sure what you are getting out.
Regarding amplifier again take a look at cheap and not so cheap Hypex SoM modular offering and priorities what ever you wish (quality and warranty or price) as those will probably do a best job.
 

Mart68

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Yes on the Cambridge Audio website it says I can have a 60 day home trial. Just found this so thats a real possibility now
I'd do that first, if you're not happy with it then spend time looking at the other options.
 

Purité Audio

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Again I understand re the measuring but it really could bring a huge improvement, the option is to enter your room’s dimensions, speaker and listening position into REW’s ‘room simulation’ feature this will help you to ensure that you are getting the best possible sound or the least worse.
If you need any help just give me a shout and I am more than happy to talk you through the process.
Keith
 
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Tassin

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The Lyngdorf TDAI-3400, that is on your list, can cope with 40A and will easily drive your low impedance speakers.
RoomPerfect is so easy to use and offers great results without altering the characteristics of your speakers. And with the multiple, editable voicings you can adjust the sound to your liking.
Can't speak up for the others on your list, but I can recommend the Lyngdorf from personal experience.
 

ZolaIII

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The Lyngdorf TDAI-3400, that is on your list, can cope with 40A and will easily drive your low impedance speakers.
RoomPerfect is so easy to use and offers great results without altering the characteristics of your speakers. And with the multiple, editable voicings you can adjust the sound to your liking.
Can't speak up for the others on your list, but I can recommend the Lyngdorf from personal experience.
That's a horrible idea!
Actually Bruno failed miserably on that one.
 

Tassin

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ZolaIII

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Womaz

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Well I guess its not perfect then.
It does get a recommendation in Part 2 of that review as the Room Perfect is used.
Gives me food for thought I guess. I think the Lyngdorf was probably at the top of my list due to the Room Perfect and I like the look of it.

If anyone has any suggestions that are a simple one box solution that will work I am more tahn willing to consider them,
Ideally an all in one Amp/DAC/Streamer. The Streamer I could maybe leave out as I do have a Roon Nucleus.

I know its ASR but I am not tech savvy really and as stated in my original post I want to keep things simple.
I will investigate further about the Lyngdorf, the Cambridge Audio EVO and the NAD M33.
 

pogo

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Lyngdorf is currently switching to Purifi and they will know why ;)
I had the 220 compared to my M33 here. They didn't really behave any audibly different.
Devialet is one of the few amps that is on an equal level. The Cambridge doesn't quite come close.
 
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Womaz

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Lyngdorf is currently switching to Purifi and they will know why ;)
I had the 220 compared to my M33 here. They didn't really behave any audibly different.
Devialet is one of the few amps that is on an equal level. The Cambridge doesn't quite come close.
Thats very interesting as you had a Devialet before moving to the M33. Apparently my speakers are quite hard to drive so this has thrown me a little. I will investiage the NAD further.
Thanks for the post
 

pogo

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I didn't have the Devialet before, but once in comparison at home.
Btw my speakers are harder to drive, but that's not a problem, see also here: Link
 
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Womaz

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Can anyone help me understand the watts and ohms figures and why it matters when trying to match it to my speakers.

Eg
Devilaet 200w into 6 ohms
Cambridge Evo 150w into 8 ohms
NAD 200w into 8 ohms
Hifi Rose 520 250W into 8 ohms

What do these figures indicate? And why are the relevant?
 

ZolaIII

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Can anyone help me understand the watts and ohms figures and why it matters when trying to match it to my speakers.

Eg
Devilaet 200w into 6 ohms
Cambridge Evo 150w into 8 ohms
NAD 200w into 8 ohms
Hifi Rose 520 250W into 8 ohms

What do these figures indicate? And why are the relevant?
You need an amplifier which is rated to be able to give 2 Ohms output. Rating will be closer to 6 Ohms and little less than what it gives at 4 Ohms. You won't really need more than 100 W at 8 Ohms or 150 at 4 Ohms. 2xW=+3 dB. Your speakers are on more sensitive side (than most) with close to 90 dB SPL @1 m 1W 8 Ohms. Figures indicate or should indicate how much power it can give to which impedance load. Some manufacturers are more honest than others and some are even modest when it comes to ratings but most lie on purpose. If there is no ratings for lower impedances or minimal one is rated to 4 or 6 in manual then they probably can't do 2 Ohms one's at all.
 

Mart68

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Can anyone help me understand the watts and ohms figures and why it matters when trying to match it to my speakers.

Eg
Devilaet 200w into 6 ohms
Cambridge Evo 150w into 8 ohms
NAD 200w into 8 ohms
Hifi Rose 520 250W into 8 ohms

What do these figures indicate? And why are the relevant?
They don't really tell you a lot about what you want.

for 1 watt of power you will get 90dB spl 1 meter from the speaker. That's really loud. Each doubling of watts gives an extra 3dB. And using 2 speakers gives another 3dB

watts into 8 ohm is the standard for comparing amps. A notionally perfect amp will double power as load halves - so 100w into 8 ohm is 200w into 4 ohm and 400 into 2

In reality this never happens, but some amps get closer than others.

Speakers have a nominal impedance usually 4, 6 or 8 ohm but this is just an average, in reality the impedance varies with frequency response so the 8 ohm speaker may drop to 2 ohm at say 35Hz and this is where the amplifier can starts having issues.

The interaction of the amp and passive crossover loudspeaker is very complex and until we get load dependency testing into real speakers it will always be a grey area. IMO in some cases this can make a real difference to sound quality.

I don't think your speakers are that hard to drive so I wouldn't worry too much but still try before you buy.
 
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Womaz

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You need an amplifier which is rated to be able to give 2 Ohms output. Rating will be closer to 6 Ohms and little less than what it gives at 4 Ohms. You won't really need more than 100 W at 8 Ohms or 150 at 4 Ohms. 2xW=+3 dB. Your speakers are on more sensitive side (than most) with close to 90 dB SPL @1 m 1W 8 Ohms. Figures indicate or should indicate how much power it can give to which impedance load. Some manufacturers are more honest than others and some are even modest when it comes to ratings but most lie on purpose. If there is no ratings for lower impedances or minimal one is rated to 4 or 6 in manual then they probably can't do 2 Ohms one's at all.
Again thanks for your help on this thread. I dont pretend to understand all of the content of your posts but I have learned that my speakers are harder to drive so I need a rating at 2 ohms? None of them give this figure in the specs so not sure how I can find this out.
If it is unable to do 2 ohms does that mean its not suitable for my speakers?
I will investigate further.
 
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Womaz

Womaz

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They don't really tell you a lot about what you want.

for 1 watt of power you will get 90dB spl 1 meter from the speaker. That's really loud. Each doubling of watts gives an extra 3dB. And using 2 speakers gives another 3dB

watts into 8 ohm is the standard for comparing amps. A notionally perfect amp will double power as load halves - so 100w into 8 ohm is 200w into 4 ohm and 400 into 2

In reality this never happens, but some amps get closer than others.

Speakers have a nominal impedance usually 4, 6 or 8 ohm but this is just an average, in reality the impedance varies with frequency response so the 8 ohm speaker may drop to 2 ohm at say 35Hz and this is where the amplifier can starts having issues.

The interaction of the amp and passive crossover loudspeaker is very complex and until we get load dependency testing into real speakers it will always be a grey area. IMO in some cases this can make a real difference to sound quality.

I don't think your speakers are that hard to drive so I wouldn't worry too much but still try before you buy.
That even makes sense to me so thanks again :)
It is hard to get home demos up here, but as I mentioned earlier the Cambridge offer a 60 day home trial. I also have a relationship with a dealer who stocks the HIfi Rose.
 

ZolaIII

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@Mart68 2 Ohms at 35 Hz for woffer and 1.5 Ohms at 7.6 KHz for tweater and average of 2.8 Ohms. That's extreme hard in my book.
 

ZolaIII

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Again thanks for your help on this thread. I dont pretend to understand all of the content of your posts but I have learned that my speakers are harder to drive so I need a rating at 2 ohms? None of them give this figure in the specs so not sure how I can find this out.
If it is unable to do 2 ohms does that mean its not suitable for my speakers?
I will investigate further.
If its not rated for 2 Ohms loads means it won't work with such or will get a permanent demage trying to do so. Your speakers should be rated at 2.5 Ohms to call it honest rating. When you don't understand something feel free to ask and it will be explained to you and insist in question that explanation is easy to understand one. Best regards and have fun.
 
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