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Amir's Music Server Build Thread

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After a long but past experience in htpc dedicated to the video section, a few months ago I approached the creation of an audio network streamer.

My first DIY streamer is based on Raspberry Pi 4B and Volumio, having also tried MoOde Audio, PiCoreplayer and a few others.


It was conceived as a continuous laboratory on which to test various HW and SW solutions and basically created with HW components found at best.
The first prototype confirmed that it is possible to create a Hi-End source that covers specific needs well and that furthermore the versatility of this solution eliminates any comparison right from the start, with hi-end streamers already available on the market, and which unfortunately also have the disadvantage of being closed systems and ends in themselves.

Now I'm in a rather advanced stage with new components, already tested, which will be integrated into the new CASE/CABINET.
The set of my experiences has converged everything in the following project points:

1) HI-FI form factor case 430x340x (120-170)mm
2) Integrated touch display
3) Internal storage
4) Extend all connection ports on the back panel, including SD card for OS quick change

Over time, the integration of a quality DAC has become a real need. They bring undisputed benefits on playback audio quality, but unfortunately they are characterized by a form factor that makes them look like toys. In fact, the SMSL DO300 is just perfect! On the front panel, completely removable and simply replaceable, it has a knob and a display connected with 2 multipolar ribbons. So it can be easily integrated into a special section of the case.

Another tested solution is the introduction of an audio grade low noise linear power supply (I already have two, the first 12V and 120W, the other 5V and 52W) because, for example, the power supply supplied with the Raspberry is not capable of simultaneously powering the touch display and a USB storage. I also checked the differences between RaspBerry and Intel NUC type systems. I widely prefer X86 and Windows systems, if only for the plug and play connections of the peripherals, such as the USB DAC and the touch displays (I have three; 7.0”, 8.8”, 12.6”) recognized immediately and easily configurable.

The only Achilles' heel, in my opinion, is the need to introduce active cooling, because modern fanless systems significantly reduce the clock frequency as soon as the heat rises. The heat is generated by the CPU, the toroidal power supply and the display. My texts say that the best solution is to install a 200mm Noctua fan which has the minimum speed at only 350rpm, but which can be further reduced with various systems. The LNA Noise is 10db and the fan is practically inaudible, despite moving 100 cubic meters / hour. I'm only concerned about the electrical noise generated by the small motor built into the fan. Unfortunately I'm not equipped to be able to measure it.
There are nuc equivalents in oil bath at a cost of 1000 euros, but their form factor is not easily modifiable as well as representing an obvious complication.

As you can see in the attached image, in one of the very first vintage-style versions (now it's completely different) the case can be disassembled into two separate elements: Streamer and DAC, which eliminates the problem of the form factor of the NUC/DAC boxes and eliminates just a couple of cables. A 230V Bridge cable and a 0.50m USB Bridge print cable are provided (Those who believe that the Amazon Basic printer cable is ridiculous should check the cable supplied with the smsl D0300 DAC. Opening this DAC, checking the build quality, you understands that if they chose that USB cable it's only because an Amazon Basic would have been too much for the purpose!

To you suggestions and considerations. Thanks.
wide
 

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Timcognito

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After a long but past experience in htpc dedicated to the video section, a few months ago I approached the creation of an audio network streamer.

My first DIY streamer is based on Raspberry Pi 4B and Volumio, having also tried MoOde Audio, PiCoreplayer and a few others.


It was conceived as a continuous laboratory on which to test various HW and SW solutions and basically created with HW components found at best.
The first prototype confirmed that it is possible to create a Hi-End source that covers specific needs well and that furthermore the versatility of this solution eliminates any comparison right from the start, with hi-end streamers already available on the market, and which unfortunately also have the disadvantage of being closed systems and ends in themselves.

Now I'm in a rather advanced stage with new components, already tested, which will be integrated into the new CASE/CABINET.
The set of my experiences has converged everything in the following project points:

1) HI-FI form factor case 430x340x (120-170)mm
2) Integrated touch display
3) Internal storage
4) Extend all connection ports on the back panel, including SD card for OS quick change

Over time, the integration of a quality DAC has become a real need. They bring undisputed benefits on playback audio quality, but unfortunately they are characterized by a form factor that makes them look like toys. In fact, the SMSL DO300 is just perfect! On the front panel, completely removable and simply replaceable, it has a knob and a display connected with 2 multipolar ribbons. So it can be easily integrated into a special section of the case.

Another tested solution is the introduction of an audio grade low noise linear power supply (I already have two, the first 12V and 120W, the other 5V and 52W) because, for example, the power supply supplied with the Raspberry is not capable of simultaneously powering the touch display and a USB storage. I also checked the differences between RaspBerry and Intel NUC type systems. I widely prefer X86 and Windows systems, if only for the plug and play connections of the peripherals, such as the USB DAC and the touch displays (I have three; 7.0”, 8.8”, 12.6”) recognized immediately and easily configurable.

The only Achilles' heel, in my opinion, is the need to introduce active cooling, because modern fanless systems significantly reduce the clock frequency as soon as the heat rises. The heat is generated by the CPU, the toroidal power supply and the display. My texts say that the best solution is to install a 200mm Noctua fan which has the minimum speed at only 350rpm, but which can be further reduced with various systems. The LNA Noise is 10db and the fan is practically inaudible, despite moving 100 cubic meters / hour. I'm only concerned about the electrical noise generated by the small motor built into the fan. Unfortunately I'm not equipped to be able to measure it.
There are nuc equivalents in oil bath at a cost of 1000 euros, but their form factor is not easily modifiable as well as representing an obvious complication.

As you can see in the attached image, in one of the very first vintage-style versions (now it's completely different) the case can be disassembled into two separate elements: Streamer and DAC, which eliminates the problem of the form factor of the NUC/DAC boxes and eliminates just a couple of cables. A 230V Bridge cable and a 0.50m USB Bridge print cable are provided (Those who believe that the Amazon Basic printer cable is ridiculous should check the cable supplied with the smsl D0300 DAC. Opening this DAC, checking the build quality, you understands that if they chose that USB cable it's only because an Amazon Basic would have been too much for the purpose!

To you suggestions and considerations. Thanks.
wide
By far, no expert, but for $850 its seems like too much effort to DYI. Just saying
 
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By far, no expert, but for $850 its seems like too much effort to DYI. Just saying
Don't apologize my friend, even if I don't go into the reasons that drive an individual to do it themselves (almost never of an economic nature), but the solutions I'm adopting in my system are much more refined.
Furthermore, that streamer is a very common object, with zero possibilities for expansion and versatility. For example, I just replace the SD card from the panel and change the OS completely. going from Volumio to Daphyle in the time of a restart. Also, mine is a system that is also capable of outputting 4K UHD video. I separate the DAC or the Streamer for 2 different uses, both BT to be connected to two separate hifi systems. The DAC built into the Eversolo DMP 6 is not comparable to the SMSL DO300.
Building my case will cost 2x that streamer. The use of carbon fiber, precious wood, polished metal is foreseen, a unique object... but above all the immense satisfaction of having created it.

Going back to the technical part, what would that streamer have that a serious DIY project can't improve?
 

Timcognito

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Don't apologize my friend, even if I don't go into the reasons that drive an individual to do it themselves (almost never of an economic nature), but the solutions I'm adopting in my system are much more refined.
Furthermore, that streamer is a very common object, with zero possibilities for expansion and versatility. For example, I just replace the SD card from the panel and change the OS completely. going from Volumio to Daphyle in the time of a restart. Also, mine is a system that is also capable of outputting 4K UHD video. I separate the DAC or the Streamer for 2 different uses, both BT to be connected to two separate hifi systems. The DAC built into the Eversolo DMP 6 is not comparable to the SMSL DO300.
Building my case will cost 2x that streamer. The use of carbon fiber, precious wood, polished metal is foreseen, a unique object... but above all the immense satisfaction of having created it.

Going back to the technical part, what would that streamer have that a serious DIY project can't improve?
Okay good response, not being electrical project type of guy, can't envision it. It is clear that is a means and end for you. BTW I do a lot Solid Works, printing and have done many woodworking things big and small, so much appreciation for that stuff.
Sincerely, Good Luck
 
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For honesty and integrity of information it should always be remembered that a $100 Android phone, connected via BT/LDAC to a made in China DAC, does roughly or better than a network streamer sold by some famous brand for the price of some thousand dollars! In my opinion, never compare a consumer market streamer to DIY Streamer. For me, SMSL DO300 DAC for €440 (10 days ago on Amazon) is a very best buy!
 
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I can confirm that the Noctua NF-A20 PWM is indeed a quiet fan in LNA mode. MELE Qiueter HD3Q is also really mute, but the box/case after 3 hours of heavy use (100% CPU) is quite hot. During my test I performed CPU Core Test. The maximum temperature recorded was 87°C (27°C the room temperature), but placing the room cooling fan near the mini-pc case the temperature drops by more 10°C. So installing that 200mm Noctua fan in my streamer case will be a very good thing :)

WhatsApp Image 2023-07-06 at 21.05.27.jpeg
 

CleanSound

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This is the case I have, not the best looking at all. What I did was, I originally brought a refurbished HP from Amazon for $266 (Intel Core i5-4570, 16GB Ram, 2TB HDD + 120GB SSD) and upgraded the 2TB HDD to a 4TB SSD for $364. That was my server/streamer.

Then the ugly HP case got to me, so I brought this Silverstone case for $130 and rip the guts out of the HP and put it into this Silverstone case This was about 3 years ago, so for a total of $760.

I love the Streacom, I was originally going to get the Streacom, but it was pretty expensive. Granted Amir only paid like $1,150 for his (vs. My $750), but I have a 4TB SSD. The 4TB SSD was necessary because I use my server as a media server, a NAS for file backup for my entire family, music server and streamer.

The main reason (aside from cost) I went with the full ATX case was because of flexibility on the type of motherboard/power supply I can use and the number of PCI-e cards I can install. Really just the flexibility at the sacrifice of good looks.

Now, I am getting jealous of this Streacom case. It looks damn good, especially in silver. Thinking about upgrading, but not sure if I can drop $1,150. . .but damn, that Streacom looks SO GOOD. :D


71cLsoEYhkL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
 
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CleanSound

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The specs for the Streacom ST-ZF240 power supply states that the CPU power is a 4-pin.

1701722704667.png


But many, if not most modern motherboards uses the 8-PIN CPU power.

However, the quietpc.com website sells systems that uses motherboards with 8-PIN power with the Streacom ST-ZF240. I believe they use a 4 to 8 PIN adaptor. In theory it should work just fine, because the 8 pin is just a replication of 4 pin, so drawing power in parallel maintains voltage with no drop, just draws more current but since the Streacom ST-ZF240 is 240w, so long as you are no overclocking it will not use more power than what the PS can supply.

Anyone uses a 4 to 8 PIN CPU power adaptor with the Streacom ST-ZF240 to power motherboard that uses 8-PIN CPU power?

51UR5svN-HL._SL1200_.jpg
 

CleanSound

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The specs for the Streacom ST-ZF240 power supply states that the CPU power is a 4-pin.

View attachment 331722

But many, if not most modern motherboards uses the 8-PIN CPU power.

However, the quietpc.com website sells systems that uses motherboards with 8-PIN power with the Streacom ST-ZF240. I believe they use a 4 to 8 PIN adaptor. In theory it should work just fine, because the 8 pin is just a replication of 4 pin, so drawing power in parallel maintains voltage with no drop, just draws more current but since the Streacom ST-ZF240 is 240w, so long as you are no overclocking it will not use more power than what the PS can supply.

Anyone uses a 4 to 8 PIN CPU power adaptor with the Streacom ST-ZF240 to power motherboard that uses 8-PIN CPU power?

51UR5svN-HL._SL1200_.jpg
Incomplete user due diligence error.

Apparently this information is on their website.
1701730263847.png
 

Keith_W

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Incomplete user due diligence error.

Apparently this information is on their website.
View attachment 331748

Yep. I am using a 4 pin CPU connector from the PSU into a motherboard with an 8 pin connector.

1701750548752.png


Apologies for the dark photo, but you can see the unused spare 4 pin socket on the motherboard, just above the yellow/black wires. The PC is absolutely rock solid and there are no power supply problems whatsoever.

I am using the Streacom ST-Z240 PSU in a Streacom FC10 case.
 

CleanSound

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Has anyone here who built a fanless PC, got all excited that you will once and for all rid of that fan noise, then you turn on your beautiful creation and behold. . . .coil whine.

I replace my mini active cooling PC with a fanless PC and that damn thing has a very minor coil whine (I have OCD).

Anyway, I will be trying electronic grade silicone, discussed on this thread on the motherboard and see if it helps.
 

keithm55

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You might find some help in your bios settings. Some of the more recent intel CPU/bios combinations appear to have settings that attempt to mitigate CPU Voltage Regulator noise.

For example one of my fanless devices has the following in the bios menu:

Advanced → Power & performance → CPU - Power Management Control → CPU VR Settings → Acoustic Noise Settings → Acoustic Noise Mitigation

This did help in my situation.

Keith
 

CleanSound

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You might find some help in your bios settings. Some of the more recent intel CPU/bios combinations appear to have settings that attempt to mitigate CPU Voltage Regulator noise.

For example one of my fanless devices has the following in the bios menu:

Advanced → Power & performance → CPU - Power Management Control → CPU VR Settings → Acoustic Noise Settings → Acoustic Noise Mitigation

This did help in my situation.

Keith
Great info, I will see if my bios has this setting.
 

Owltiger2057

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After a long but past experience in htpc dedicated to the video section, a few months ago I approached the creation of an audio network streamer.

My first DIY streamer is based on Raspberry Pi 4B and Volumio, having also tried MoOde Audio, PiCoreplayer and a few others.


It was conceived as a continuous laboratory on which to test various HW and SW solutions and basically created with HW components found at best.
The first prototype confirmed that it is possible to create a Hi-End source that covers specific needs well and that furthermore the versatility of this solution eliminates any comparison right from the start, with hi-end streamers already available on the market, and which unfortunately also have the disadvantage of being closed systems and ends in themselves.

Now I'm in a rather advanced stage with new components, already tested, which will be integrated into the new CASE/CABINET.
The set of my experiences has converged everything in the following project points:

1) HI-FI form factor case 430x340x (120-170)mm
2) Integrated touch display
3) Internal storage
4) Extend all connection ports on the back panel, including SD card for OS quick change

Over time, the integration of a quality DAC has become a real need. They bring undisputed benefits on playback audio quality, but unfortunately they are characterized by a form factor that makes them look like toys. In fact, the SMSL DO300 is just perfect! On the front panel, completely removable and simply replaceable, it has a knob and a display connected with 2 multipolar ribbons. So it can be easily integrated into a special section of the case.

Another tested solution is the introduction of an audio grade low noise linear power supply (I already have two, the first 12V and 120W, the other 5V and 52W) because, for example, the power supply supplied with the Raspberry is not capable of simultaneously powering the touch display and a USB storage. I also checked the differences between RaspBerry and Intel NUC type systems. I widely prefer X86 and Windows systems, if only for the plug and play connections of the peripherals, such as the USB DAC and the touch displays (I have three; 7.0”, 8.8”, 12.6”) recognized immediately and easily configurable.

The only Achilles' heel, in my opinion, is the need to introduce active cooling, because modern fanless systems significantly reduce the clock frequency as soon as the heat rises. The heat is generated by the CPU, the toroidal power supply and the display. My texts say that the best solution is to install a 200mm Noctua fan which has the minimum speed at only 350rpm, but which can be further reduced with various systems. The LNA Noise is 10db and the fan is practically inaudible, despite moving 100 cubic meters / hour. I'm only concerned about the electrical noise generated by the small motor built into the fan. Unfortunately I'm not equipped to be able to measure it.
There are nuc equivalents in oil bath at a cost of 1000 euros, but their form factor is not easily modifiable as well as representing an obvious complication.

As you can see in the attached image, in one of the very first vintage-style versions (now it's completely different) the case can be disassembled into two separate elements: Streamer and DAC, which eliminates the problem of the form factor of the NUC/DAC boxes and eliminates just a couple of cables. A 230V Bridge cable and a 0.50m USB Bridge print cable are provided (Those who believe that the Amazon Basic printer cable is ridiculous should check the cable supplied with the smsl D0300 DAC. Opening this DAC, checking the build quality, you understands that if they chose that USB cable it's only because an Amazon Basic would have been too much for the purpose!

To you suggestions and considerations. Thanks.
wide
Hi
Another potential idea you might consider is asymmetric cooling. I'm running 3 Corsair 1000D PCs at home. This was part of an experiment conducted when a friend wanted a "silent" gaming rig. I don't know if you were aware but Noctua conducted some pretty extensive testing on that 200mm fan. In the three gaming rigs in picture one, I installed 6 of them into each computer, (2 on top, 2 in front, 2 on the bottom.) trying different push/pull configurations. As it turns out convection is not as much of an asset as you might believe. However, on the back of the computer using a single 120mm fan and a single 140mm fan to push air into the system while the other six exhausted air I was able to silently cool an Intel X9 10980XE on an Asus Edition 30 X299 motherboard - even with an RTX 3060. While it was impossible to cool the Intel X9 13900k without both fans and water cooling (It routinely pulls 600w while gaming). But - and this is the one that best fits here. The third box uses an Intel I5 14600k (6P+8E cores) and the integrated intel graphics. With just the 6 - 200mm and the asymmetrical 120/140 combo with a passive radiator. It never exceeds ambient and is dead silent. So, modern processors can be quieted and not be thermal throttled for any audio use (granted these large Corsair cases are impractical for an audio server, unless I bling it out and put it in my granddaughters dorm room as a disco ball. Another thing I haven't seen mentioned is Peltier Coolers. They draw more power but have no moving parts and for a low end small form factor they might be worth the cost. (Full disclosure Noctua did supply me with a few fans for testing, when I told them the Corsair could support 200mm fans.) Picture one is the three systems (left to right I5 14600k, I9 10980XE and I9 13900k), Picture 2 is the I9 13900k system with water cooling and 200mm fans. Pictures 3-4-5 are the air cooled I9 10980xe currently using it as a video server connected to my NAS. This one clearly shows the large size of the 200mm fans.
 

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CleanSound

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If your fanless PC is not silent because of coil whine, this is your best friend. I can confirm it works in mitigating or completely silencing coil whine.
1702265573238.png
 

Keith_W

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Another thing I haven't seen mentioned is Peltier Coolers. They draw more power but have no moving parts and for a low end small form factor they might be worth the cost.

If I am not mistaken, Peltier coolers generate more heat than the amount of cooling they supply, and the heat needs to be dumped in the same way that heat from the CPU needs to be dumped. If you can not get rid of the excess heat from a Peltier, it will end up heating up your CPU. So Peltiers need the same watercooling that a high end CPU needs, maybe even more.
 

CleanSound

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I was a bit behind in assembling this server. Finally got it done. It went relatively smooth, all parts ordered works; no issues. Bios setup was pretty straight forward too.

AMD Ryzen 7 5700G
GIGABYTE B550M DS3H AC (Rev. 1.7)
Corsair VENGEANCE LPX DDR4 RAM 32GB (CMK32GX4M2D3600C18)
NewHail TPM2.0 Module LPC 12Pin Module with Infineon SLB9665
Western Digital WD_BLACK 1TB SN770 for OS
SAMSUNG 870 QVO SATA III SSD 4TB 2.5" for storage
Windows 11

Streacom case of course, this Streacom is a thing of beauty, I shouldn't have been cheap from the get go and done this, 1000% worth it.



PXL_20240105_013823881~2.jpg


PXL_20240105_015544501.jpg
PXL_20240105_015558273.jpg
 
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It's my DIY Audio pc/Streamer, the fan is really mute!
 
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