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Do we need a high quality and expensive power cord?

March Audio

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The better the amp´s transformer (lower impendance), the lower the difference between peak and continuous power, so for me a quality issue.

Some unsolicited background
The reason why I looked into the whole issue of max. amp. power was the desire to define a point on the pre amp volume pot scale (at 2 o´clock position in this case, leaving 12dB more preamp gain), where serious distortion will occur.
For that purpose I created a test signal with L/R alternating 400Hz bursts (20% duty cycle and L, R shifted ).
That leaves the thermal load on the bass/mid speakers at a decent level and has only little high frequency content to protect the tweeters. The nice thing about this signal is the easily audible detection of clipping.
Compared to a continuous sine wave on both channels there was little difference in vol. pot position, when clipping occured, which speaks for the amp´s (PSU) quality in my opinion.

Neglecting some 1dB DAC-oversampling-output-level overshoot from already clipped music tracks or the 5-10% variation in mains voltage, I can be relatively sure not to overdrive the system and maintain highest possible fidelity, when listening loud (e. g. for just a few old Yello tracks)...or very high dynamic performances (e. g. ECM´s Il Pergolese).

That entirely depends on the amp circuit design, you can't just conclude this from transformer size. Again It's mostly irrelevant with real music because of the very large ratio between rms and peak levels.

The thing that's going to break are most likely your tweeters, so this test was not very useful, especially if you did it by ear without measurements.
 

North_Sky

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Ultra High-End Audiophile High-Five Resolution for maximum transfer audio current energy below one fraction of a hertz and above one billion kilohertz power amplifier UHF-Fi & UFO-HI AC⚡DC cables...between $30 and $50 ...
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March Audio

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I thought so, the cables amp rating is probably also depending on mechanical wear, i.e. # of broken leads in the stranded wire over time and worst case self-heating...
Mechanical can be a consideration although in domestic use I wouldn't worry but self heating is a non issue. That's how the cables get their current rating, its defined from acceptably low heating. That's why it reduces when you run multiple cables together or install in walls etc. So as long as normal electrical design practice is followed its a non issue.
 

March Audio

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Due to -30 to -40dB ear sensitivity at 50/60Hz and a bit of noise or signal, crosstalk could be more than -60dB without perceiving anything...one could say, why worry, only measurement does...but who wants to run a system with some 60dB S/N...as an engineer I would really appreciate to know the numbers...
If your system is picking up 50/60Hz at - 60dB there is something very seriously wrong.

I have performed many measurements in line level systems and its rarely an issue. Levels are typically in the general noise floor.
 
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amirm

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Over at WBF, the principles have started promoting inexpensive Ching Cheng power cords, in an EXTREME reversal of the usual expensive gilded cord recommendations.
My Mark Levinson DAC came with that brand cable! It is one of the few brands of generic cable that comes in 12 gauge. I post it on WBF when ddk promoted it, much to the chagrin of Steve at the time.
 

eliash

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My advice is if the supplied power chord of a piece of equipment is not suitable and sufficient then don't buy the equipment. If the manufacturer can't get something as simple as the power chord right they're unlikely to be capable of getting the difficult bits right.

I remember my T+A amp combo came with some ping pong brand power cords, they upgraded it by a colour dot marking for the hot wire, since polarity in German power connectors is not defined. Anyway, I kept their recommendation when installing my own shielded ones...
 

Thomas savage

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@Thomas savage has just closed the other thread - however the JK virus has got sprayed everywhere in the forum ...

The septic shock has been too strong, it may take up to few months before that said JK virus is cleared from the forum ... :facepalm:
Man! You guys ...

Come on, step away from the open goal.
 

eliash

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If your system is picking up 50/60Hz at - 60dB there is something very seriously wrong.

I have performed many measurements in line level systems and its rarely an issue. Levels are typically in the general noise floor.

Actually the phono cable of my old Thorens TD146 MK VI was the reason for switching to that shielded power cabling...I had the same idea as you, that there must be something wrong with cabling (e. g. broken ground lead or so) but everything was OK, the cart is nicely connected pin by pin to that cable and no other connection. It is simply extremly poorly shielded (for the sake of minimum capacitance!) that even warping around the chassis´ earthing wire has made an audible difference for mains hum pick-up. I haven´t measured, but the pick-up was around that value...
On the digital side it is of course much better. Currently my brand new RME ADDA converter, in combination with tc-electronic´s clarity audio meter in third-octave band measuring mode, shows the 50Hz line below -110dBu (min. displayed level) for digital and -86dBu for the phono.
(..currently the ADC is hooked up to the tape rec-out terminals of the T+A preamp, this incorporates a TL071 based voltage follower...with the next revision, I´ll put some OPA134 in, for the sake of better measurements...anyway, need to hook up the PC to find out more...)
 

eliash

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That entirely depends on the amp circuit design, you can't just conclude this from transformer size. Again It's mostly irrelevant with real music because of the very large ratio between rms and peak levels.

The thing that's going to break are most likely your tweeters, so this test was not very useful, especially if you did it by ear without measurements.

...tweeters are fine, as long as you do not go well beyond clipping with that signal. As the spectrum shows, there is not much energy at higher frequencies (as long as you design the test signal properly, i. e. switching the 400Hz bursts during zero crossing!)

have al look:
1573713336860.png
 
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Wombat

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Why does it need to be any better than the many yards of normal house wire running to the power outlets?
 

Wombat

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Because you can see it.

Oh, cosmetics and not electrical performance. Get the diamond studded one then. Thomas has the cheap version one with pure silver sequins.:rolleyes:
 

JJB70

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I honestly cannot remember ever having to replace a power chord, in fact from time to time I take a bag of old IEC power chords to the recycling centre as I have an awful habit of hanging onto the things when we replace kettles, toasters and other appliances but since the things just don't break I've never had call to use one of these spares which just accumulate.
 
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