I truly appreciate the offer,
@Jon AA , but will have to pass on it at this time. Last night, there was a strange glitch in the system: I was in the middle of streaming The House of the Dragon on HBO, dragons were flying around in Atmos and suddenly, without me touching anything and no power blackout/brownout, the TV determined that the HDMI connection with the 3800H was gone, switched the source to the TV source and started streaming news. Normally, this takes a deliberate, multi-step action on the TV remote control. Since we all know that the first several months of production of a new model are always problematic, I have to be on the lookout for this and similar problems that would cause me to return the unit. Not only is the MultEQ-X app assigned to a particular AVR serial number, but also if I do not decide to keep the unit after all and instead go with another AVR brand, it would be several hundred dollars thrown away (I would also purchase a calibrated Audyssey mic for the MultEQ-X).
Besides, I am afraid that this enhanced app would not solve the bass issue for me. I have just painstakingly re-run the built-in Audyssey in all 8 positions exactly per the instructions. I would say the results are even worse than before, after I ran only 3 positions. If I were to characterize the resulting sound in one word, I would borrow it from the Dragons episode: "gelded." There is hardly any bass at all, even with the DEQ on and at 0 dB reference level; I tried both the Reference and Flat settings. With the L/R Bypass setting, there is some bass with the DEQ on, but it lacks the usual low-end "punch" I am so used to; basically, it is "boomy." As is clear from the REW measurements, all this DEQ does is shelf-up frequencies ~200 Hz and below and very slightly boost 10 kHz and above. After this full calibration, there is little improvement to the mids.
By now, I know everyone here will immediately blast me for not using the $20 app. But I doubt that it would improve things since it would essentially cause me to repeat the same measurements. I also do not want to throw away money if I decide to return the unit (as a matter of principle, since $20 is not a huge sum).
The Gene & Theo video on Audyssey tuning I previously cited confirms that, just like me, everyone else sees bass gone after calibration. They recommend disabling all enhancements, incl. the DEQ, and instead manually boosting bass by editing some "target curve," an error-prone endeavor that seems to defeat the whole point of automatic calibration. That would not work for me. I need the bass to work well over the range of, say, 55 dB (nighttime) to 85 dB (daytime workout when neighbors are away) volumes. A tweak of the target curve would achieve bass correction only at one particular volume level, so it would not function as a proper loudness control. The only workaround I see is to perform multiple adjustments of the curve and download them as separate presets to the AVR, to be then selected by the Quick Select 1..4 buttons on the remote. But that would be a discrete and coarse loudness adjustment which would have to be done manually every time the volume is changed. This would not be a workable solution for me.
The video also showed that even with the app, the AVR defaults to a "mid-range correction," which is a 3 dB or so "suck-out" around 2 kHz on the account of Denon's antiquated assumption that this is where the speakers have deficient FR due to the transition between the mid-range and tweeter. Apparently, this setting is not even visible on the AVR and it has to be manually disabled separately for each speaker before calibration; otherwise, vocals sound bad.
Moreover, the video said that the app does not sync-back settings from the AVR; apparently, it is a one-way street, and the upload of settings from the app to the AVR takes up to 60 seconds. If that and the previous "feature" are true, then I find this system to be seriously mis-designed. It is supposed to be a piece of user-friendly consumer electronics, not an experimental tweaking platform for mad enthusiasts.
One other thing I noticed with this AVR: I power it up first, wait for the speaker relays to click, then power up the TV and wait until it automatically starts streaming a news channel. Then I select the AVR HDMI port on the TV as the source. At that point, the AVR walks all of its HDMI inputs, as if trying to see what is connected to them. This has a side effect of powering up my BD player for no good reason; the AVR should simply go directly to the Aux2 input where the Amazon Fire Stick HD is attached and was last used. I am unable to find any setting that would set this port as the default one to prevent this port walk.
I will keep evaluating the 3800H, but at this point I doubt it will meet my needs. The power meter is supposed to arrive tomorrow, so I should be able to take some measurements and report them.